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To all those that have replied, I’m having a difficult time seeing the keyboard, looking through tear filled eyes, reading the kind and respectful words, you all have shared about my brother. He was a good man, and I’m glad some of you got to know him, through this great club. Karl, a sincere thank you for that, because that’s what I’m going to do. Adam really got to enjoy his collection of Wheel Horse tractors, the most I believe, when he lived in Tennessee on a 9 acre piece of land. Between cutting the grass, hauling whatever he needed to, stump pulling, or even grading, he’d tell me about it every time we spoke. There is one tractor that he worked on, as the last “big project”, he finished just before being diagnosed. He dismantled the tractor 100% to the last nut and bolt. He was an excellent mechanic. He reassembled it after thorough cleaning, painting, and replacing anything that wasn’t making the grade. Right down to the last sticker and zip tie, I think the Wheel Horse factory would be very proud of what it looks like. Its a perfect looking machine. At a point in time when he had a good idea of the horrible outcome of the situation, he had asked me to take care of that tractor in particular, because he knew I had a place to store it, protect it and take care of it,.......I’m still having a hard time seeing the keyboard. When I can see more clearly, I will upload all the pictures I took while I was there. From the bottom of my heart, thank you everyone. Scott

The friction you speak of should be in the motion lever itself. It has a male/female cone that you tighten with the spring and jam nut. Page 10 of this “essential “ gt14 thread there are some good hydro shots. I have a photo somewhere of the lever assembly disassembled that I saw somewhere on here and saved but cannot find at the moment.

The gear oil that you have should be perfectly fine to use. You say the fluid you have is BAD... that's a very common problem with these because they get left outside and water runs down into the transmission. It would be highly advisable to drain what you can from the transmission (and remember to raise the front of the tractor because there is a bump on the inside of the transmission) and put 2 quarts of diesel fuel in there and drive it around a bit doing a couple figure eights in all eight gears. Do this flush twice then refill with the new oil. Also, double-check the dust boot at the top of the shifter.

Well got a couple odd things done. Got the plowblade on. That will be redone next summer. Just foot rest, stack brace and lights to do. Gonna get a seat pad for the square pan as well. Also the b-80 will be pushing a 42 in blade this winter. Got to put the rear weights on that one still and front weight on the b140.

If you disconnect number 27, jack up the front, and turn the wheels by hand that would rule out a problem with the fan gear. I would disconnect links one at a time until you find the one that is limiting the travel with it jacked up such as the fan gear and then maybe the tie rods.

You've probably 'jumped' a tooth or two on the fan gear. With wheels straight the fan gear should be centered on the steer shaft. You probably have slack in the bushings allowing it to slip past a tooth.

Well the 241 is NOT a done deal..trade ya a nice 10 hp for a Amiga!?!?! Jack please do not encourage his affliction... do you want heat in your shop

Scott, I’m saddened to to read about your brother Adam passing. I live near Biloxi, Ms. and have a trip planned to Buffalo (and back) starting in just a couple of days. I have a full sized pickup truck that will be empty for the return trip to Biloxi and would be proud and honored to provide transport of the special tractor that he entrusted to your care. Please send me a PM here if you think I can help. Very Respectfully,

Got a few more bits done, Ive cut down the mounting bracket and was hoping to get the last parts painted untill I noticed the chute aim adjuster was missing so more fabricating and by then it was to late to paint as the temperature was dropping.

Very sorry to hear this. I remember a lot of your brothers posts. I became a part of this group after my father passed and I inherited all his tractors. I sold a couple but there are some I couldn’t sell. My way of staying connected I guess. I wish you the best as you move forward with this but beware..... if you keep just one tractor, you may just hang around and become part of this family also. Bless you my friend.

@wh315-8 this is the kind of amazing help you get on this site. I'm following along to learn, as I have a 953 to restore.

Richard, I thought I explained already that I don’t have a crystal ball?

I showed Rylee this morning what I had built, she says “that looks like a trash can.” And there we have it! I’m a good trash can builder!

Drag link too long or too short? This would limit the steering as you would run out of fan gear before you got to the end. Works in my mind

Definitely flush it out and get some fresh gear lube in there. The 3523 gear Richard is referring to is the 2nd/3rd gear and is a common problem. Your transmission has a 5173 gear instead of a 3523 and the problem seemed to go away but that could be because the transmissions that use the 5173 gear are newer. After getting it flushed out and fresh lube in it make sure the shifter feels right. You should feel the detent balls engage in the shift rails. If all feels normal that opening it up is going to have to happen.

Left and right spindles are different. Is the difference the length of the king pin or is the difference in the angle the roll pin holes are drilled in relation to the axles? Wondering if a left spindle assembly has been used on the right. Could item 13 be turned over to help? Could item 14 be turned over to help? Some steering wheels are mounted on a splined shaft so if this is one of them the steering wheel could be centered but that is not the problem here. Item 26 could be adjusted to center the wheel a slight amount. I see a Woodruff key in the top of the steering shaft at the wheel so it is not splined on this one. Garry

If it has jumped a tooth or two you can pull the pin on the fan gear and relocate it to center and then bolt the pivot pin back in place. Take a look at the Owner Manual.

Pulled the trigger for the guys following,I really didn't know what these where acouple days ago, I kinda looked up what these are going for and it kinda amazed me the seller wanted alot for a non running tractor right off there start he then told me he was interested in old tin toys or old metal Tonka toys I only have a couple and they aren't displayed in my house at the moment so I figured I would offer them to him and he bit on one hard, knocked the price almost in 2/3 and I was left paying acouple hundred bucks and a Tonka toys, couldn't pass this up!! Everything is free and 99% there front tires are original but shot and it's got a 7hp k161 can't bet a Kohler! I thought my horses where heavy not even close this is unbelievablely heavy!! This will be one of 2 winter projects I will have going on so here we go!!! Hope you enjoy the progress.

Here are some pictures of the proto type

Thank you everybody!

I will say that I have taken several of these GT14’s apart and in 80 percent of the cases I find that someone has been in there previously and left the woodruff key out. It it makes a difference but I was never able to get to get the friction as sticky as I would prefer.

Here they are Jonah. I knew I had them somewhere. Hope this helps.

Great advice! So the 5-15 should go just fine you suppose?

You do have only 4 pinions in that differential. Are those axles 1 1/8" ??? They are looking like it. If the magnet is too big, try a flash light and a long, skinny screw driver with some grease on the end. The grease will hold onto the ball. I think I know what happened. You do have the heavy duty transmission #5045. I believe what happened...the trans broke and it was the bevel gear differential (which has 1 1/8" axles). That differential was just replaced with an 8 pinion differential (1 1/8" axles), but for some reason it only has 4 pinions in it...plus your axles are the same length. All this is no problem, just not original. If you have 4 more pinions, you could add them...if you don't, that is fine. Mystery solved.

@ZXT, Just a tip in case you haven't quite absorbed all the nuances of the forum layout and structure. It's certainly not something I learned overnight. One thing that helps me greatly here at RS is to "Follow" posts I find of particular interest, especially when it comes to GT 14 threads, as well as certain specialized areas of repair, electric clutches being one example. I use this feature much like a "bookmark" feature in a browser. The difference being it is in essence being bookmarked here within the Red Square format instead of your browser. "Follow" can be accessed in any thread in the upper right hand portion of every forum thread page. If you choose that option, you can also choose to be automatically notified when a new comment is made in that thread. To access threads you have chosen to "Follow", simply go to the very top right corner of a page. To the right of your avatar and user name, you will see a downward pointing triangle, which indicates a drop down menu. Click on that and click on "Manage Followed Content". That will then open to a catalog list of all the threads you have chosen to "Follow". Search within, by title, for the topic you seek, and click on it to open the thread. This feature can save you tens of minutes or more in searching for something you want to refer back to refresh your memory about a specific subject or specific topic. Try it! I think you will like the feature. Regards, Steve btw, do you have a real first name, ZXT???

So you've expanded your broad skill-set just a little bit further. Awesome! one of the finest people I've ever known was a great friend and an awesome human being for just that very reason. I never knew him to be crude or obnoxious or negative but if you asked him a question you had better be prepared for the answer whether it was really the one you were looking for or not. That's also one of the reasons I get along with my honey so well. she and I jokingly tell people that we are anywhere between 5 and 12 years old on a pretty regular basis. more people should be open and honest like that. Might not always be easy, especially for the person who's looking for the answer.... But it's definitely the better way to go.

original fluid ? really? learned early on, to get after all forms of baseline maintenance, that way ,you know what you have. I use ATF FLUID as a trans flush , and do it a couple of times , the existing moisture filled slurry in your trans , has been steadily binding up all movement. probably replace the shift boot too. after flush / refill , the trans ,will not suddenly be fixed, the crud has caused a rusty film preventing movement. if you have a place nearby ,where you can drive the tractor , is best , fresh fluid ,cleaning, and doing what its supposed to do at driving speed , will really help flushing. I also use every gear, and hi/lo range to make sure all parts get flushed and lubed. my recent base line baseline maintenance on a 312-8 , found many issues, trans was very stiff , now its very smooth and quiet. use car ramps to lift your front end , and increase the drain on trans. basic stuff, good luck, Pete

When you ask a child foe an opinion you had better brace yourself for their brutally honest answer. Never met a Politically Correct kid and hope I never do!

Drag link hits the stops on the axle though he said? If it skipped a tooth, the steering wheel would just be off, wouldn’t it? On my Charger 12 frame I used for the Mrs. Pullstart build, one of the spindle steering arms was bent up from the PO moving it around with his fork lift (my guess of how it happened, that’s how he loaded it in my truck), maybe just verify that both spindles look the same? It was binding just shy of the stop but turning much shorter one direction than the other.

Don't see how a skipped tooth would cause the problem here. If a steering stop is preventing the wheel from turning further there has to be something wrong in that location. Is the steering stop original or has it been added? If the arm on the spindle was upside down would that affect the stop? Garry

Wheel Horse sold to TORO over three decades ago so Toro could be a good place to start with. Seals and bearings can be found at NAPA or other good industrial suppliers. Parts Tree is another site that has some things. Depending on the model you may need to go for a good used part from A-Z Tractor. My crystal ball is a bit cloudy this morning, cant quite make out what specific parts you are looking for or what model they will be going on.

Specifically, what are you looking for?

Thanks Jim, also from across the pond With the test drive done, MadTrax needed to go back up on the bench for final welding.. Pictures of the stripdown would be boring, so have a fun video instead The stripdown should of taken a day at the most, but when everything is being video'd using my Camera Panning Jig Thingy, one day gets stretched to five! With the frame stripped down I could make a start on the final welding.. Well, almost The last couple of bit's of "made out of a cheap office desk" Quadzilla frame were bugging me.. The only problem was important bits such as front suspension lower mounts and front diff mounts are made out of one big plate that's welded to the Quadzilla frame.. And it's kinda important to make sure these mounts stay in the same place. So after a lot of bracing including something to hold the said plate in the right place, the lower front got the chop! Would you look at the rust in that! At some point during the build the bit of tube that these two bit's of desk are attached to was welded in not quite where it should of been.. In other words it looked pished but wasn't noticable until everything had been stripped from the frame! Cleaning the suspension plate of the left over bit's of rusty desk took a while, here's the plate bolted back on where it should be.. A bit of space to fill to connect everything back up again.. A lot of new thick wall tube has gone back in the front, but I still keep forgoting to take any photo's!

That would kind of depend on just what your looking for. Check our vendor section, there are some good leads there. At best it's a start.

Hey now @WHX21 that 953 is a done deal.. just waiting for Saturday. I am tractor tight after this sound like someone you all know??? ok maybe one more for my narrow front but the way my project are stacking up definitely won't get to that until maybe next year..but I'll make a threat when I get it. BUT my local buddie @PeacemakerJack found this awesome article about demco and the amigo tractors I have to thank him really made me appreciate the work that went into making these tractors. Here it is if you want a good read and thank you Josh again! https://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/921-ahead-of-its-time-amigo-article-from-lagc-magazine/

Cleaning the old tube before you put the rubber cement on is the most important part. Once the cement is dry to the touch apply the patch, roll it several passes in multiple directions with a deep socket or other round object and lots of pressure. No need to rest it, inflate it to check your work, deflate and install. Didn't even know Monkey Grip was around any more, the made good stuff.

There are dozens of pages on this website and the most awesome technical knowledge to help you fix your transmission. And... Absolutely not. Your 8-speed transmission is made up entirely of real old-fashioned actual metal gears on the interior. Clean them out and flush the transmission like it's stated in your other post and you'll be doing yourself and your tractor a wonderful favor.

I think some use 80w90...

That will work well in your transmission.

it will be just fine

Scott, on behalf of the staff here at RedSquare, we offer you and your family our sincerest sympathy. In honor of Adam, I have placed his account in our Member at rest group where we will forever remember him. He was a supporter of this forum, and were very grateful that he chose our forum to share his hobby with. To help you in your efforts, I have given your RedSquare account supporter status for one year at no cost to you, ignore the emails you’ve received. This will allow you to post as many pictures of Adam’s tractors which you see fit. Karl

Just pulled new pin after cutting it and drilling hole doesn't look bad. I know it's not original but I got plenty of this 3/4 inch rod stock lol

Scott...sorry for your loss to you and your family. Just so you know...Adam's screen name was "hondagod64" . (I edited that in your 1st post) He was a supporter on Red Square...joined April 12, 2014. He had over 106 posts and was a constant contributor for a time. He has some excellent pictures of some of his projects in the "Gallery" and he will be missed. One thing we do now for members that have passed, is we show the members name in "green" on all of his previous posts. He will be a member here as long as Red Square exists.

Nice score Ryan!! Every one should have one odd ball in their line up. The Mafia group has @WHX21 . If I remember right those Amigo's had kind of a strange transmission set up. Looking forward to checking it out in person.

That is a bit of all right. Cheers from across the pond.

Great tip Garry @gwest_ca! If using a battery I would caution you that a dead short like that could cause the battery to explode so it is best to cover it with an old wool coat and weight down a plastic container over that. Eye, face and hand protection should also be used.

If you don’t mind me asking, What brand and color is that red?

These generators change the output frequency based on speed in which they are spinning. All our engines should be run at 3/4 to full speed for cooling and max torque, and the belt driven generators are also designed to be run at a certain speed (usually 3600 rpm, same speed as the engine at full tilt). So for all of them you will need approximately a 1:1 pulley setup, but you will have to size your generator head to the smallest tractor you want to run it on. 10hp should be no greater than 5kw, but if you stick with the other two tractors only, you could handily run a 7.5-10kw.