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10/25/2018 - 10/25/2018
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2018 in all areas
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7 points
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7 pointsI only have one pic of teardown and this is where I'm at today, I've had the frame and tins blasted. I'm using a 5091 8 speed tranny that has 1-1/8" axles so I'm having the ends of the axles turned down to 1" so I can use the Ranger hubs. I decided to paint the rims rather than powder them so I don't scratch them up when mounting the rear tires. Like my last Ranger this Kohler will be recoil start.
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6 pointsThe Ranger I built this summer for the boys has gone to a new owner so I’m starting on another one that will be basically the same build but with a few small changes. I’m hoping to have this one done by late spring. This ‘68 is gonna be red and an 8 speed like the last one and will have a K181 engine. I’m wanting to powder coat this one. Here’s a couple of pics of what I started with.
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6 pointsWell I went and visited @jimkemp this past weekend and got my new stack. I installed it yesterday and it sounds great. I only got a few things left and it will be done. Just waiting for one thing to come in the mail and got to make a couple brackets for footrest and a brace for the stack.
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5 pointsTip of the day: when your wiring is hanging by a strap, don’t take a joyride out in the field. That’s when the gremlins come out! Back in the shop safe and sound.... I’m convinced the build must go on
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4 pointsSame thing with a plumbing project. Bring your card. "Cleanout " (no pun intended) Home Cheapo or Lowes of all the fittings. Return what you don't use and with the return money buy Power Tools!
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4 points
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3 pointsAs this is now a completed project I thought I’d post a picture up in this section. (More pics in Restoration’s under ‘Something different’).
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3 pointsWell my tube is only 4 or 5’, I don’t feel like cutting my 10 footer up just for a tractor!
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3 pointsI don’t want the thing to start leaning to the right though Eric! I suppose I’ll wait to figure the overall length/height when I get the seat situated.
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3 pointsThat does not even become a real question until it starts smacking doorways. Just keep in mind I'm a redneck hillbilly Backwoods country boy truck driver
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3 pointsTake the distance you moved the engine x 2 from the original belt length. Garry
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3 points
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3 pointsIf you cut the fingers off an old pair of leather gloves and put them on your tire tools you will reduce the likelihood of scratching your rims.
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3 points@Tractorhead I must admit I haven’t measured the machines vital statistics but guessing I’d say lift height to the buckets cutting edge.. maybe 6’ 6”. When it comes to weight.. ‘HEAVY’ I could just lift the subframe/towers, the loader boom pluse the rams would be about the same and then there’s the bucket, again I could just about pick that up. I feel like saying I’ve doubled the original tractor weight, if not, it’s close. (probably the reason the hyro overruns)
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3 points
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3 pointsGarry, Thank you! I believe you hit it on the head. I had a feeling it was for stretching leather. The thumbscrew allows you to gradually apply more pressure while allowing the material to stretch. 953, I agree the thumbscrew and threads do not look period, but the threaded rod is held in place with a solid pin and may be original. I think someone did some cleaning on this thing and the thumbscrew which is cast iron may be a replacement. I only wish it were something more exciting.... Bunions? Yuck! Oh well, I also have my Grandfathers cobbler tools. He was a jack of all trades, and one of his trades was shoe repair. I can add this to his tools. Thanks! Danny
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3 pointsOh man oh man, I think I’ve done it for myself now... the wheels and tires from the David Bradley I picked up a bit ago are screaming to get in on the project! I see a higher steering wheel and maybe some cut down (back half) floor boards. The seat and fenders would drop a bit of course... The DB wheels are a bigger bolt pattern and it has ratcheting hubs for cornering in the field, but that would mess with reverse a tiny.
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3 points
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2 pointsHaving just become the new owner of Anglo Traction’s most immaculate C120, felt it only right to rejoin the Wheelhorse forum. Thank you Richard for doing the best restoration possible on this amazing machine. Simply stunning work every time you restore anything !!! Looking forward to using the C120, mainly for mowing and some hauling. Just too perfect to use really, but that is what they were designed and made for !!! will try hard to look after her.
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2 pointsTook it out for a spin! Then I dug the broken bulbs out of the headlights and pulled the old wiring in the Charger 10, and taught the son the finer points of the game “Chicken” 😂
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2 points
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2 pointsGet this and use the one you have....https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252146472551
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2 pointsI wouldn't change it. Lots of character. When you see something like that and still functioning after all these years you have to look at it with respect.
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2 pointsGet a couple either side what you think you need and return the ones that don't fit the best. Might save a couple of trips.
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2 pointsBoth set screws were snapped flush to the hub and one hub is cracked. A good sign this next part is gonna be tough? I finally broke down and built a hub puller.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsSmall (huge) victories, the K241 still runs, and the hydro feels strong enough to run me over while test firing! Also, I think I’ll be able to lock the DB hub in a drive position by replacing a spring with a piece of tubing. Time to strap a fuel tank on this beast and run it around the yard a while!
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2 pointsTake a measurement of how the belt would be with out the tensioner, then add an inch or two to that figure. I would think that this would be a good starting place. It might take a couple trips back to the store though.
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2 pointsWorking with what I’ve got and what I have spares for, both K241 oil pans I have are shallow but with a recess for the dipper. Trying to keep the engine as low as possible to clear the hood reasonably, that recess interfered with the frame and the steering.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointshttps://toolfanatic.com/footfitter-bunion-stretcher-ball-ring-cast-iron-b000pohtog.php Garry Another http://cobblersbest.com/bunion-shoe-stretcher-ball-and-ring/ And another with instructions http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70649&cat=2,51676
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2 pointsI've seen Richards work first hand, you have a one of a kind restoration there. Nice to see Richard too! have fun!
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2 pointsMunicipal or Industrial? I was also a water treatment plant superintendent for our small town for 17 years at the same time I was the waste water super. It was a 1 horse town, and I was the horse! Some would say the horses a$$!
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2 points
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2 pointsIt's been more than two years since I had my electric clutch and engine pulley off the end of my K341 crankshaft. I had a somewhat loose engine pulley so I needed to investigate by first removing the clutch from the crankshaft. I had never done that before and came to learn there was and is a specific procedure to getting the clutch off the crankshaft. It turned out the two allen set screws at right angles to each other on the engine pulley had loosened only slightly, but enough to cause some slight side to side play which was not going to resolve itself without owner intervention. Further loosening might eventually result in irreversible pulley, keyway, and crankshaft damage. I decided to remove the pulley, examine everything, and clean the crankshaft end, the key slot, and the engine pulley and clutch bores so there were no lubricants to aid future loosening, or foreign matter to increase wear. From memory, there is no woodruff key on the crankshaft. The key was a square cut key of sufficient length to run through both the engine pulley and the clutch. As I recall it was 3/16 x 3/16 square stock, but don't take that as gospel (because I'll be 70 in one month), and memory can fade as we age...... One of the set screws on the engine pulley is centered over the square stock key and tightened down on top of that. Take a close look at the situation. Hope this is helpful to you. p.s. Just had the thought about you mentioning changing filters on the tranny. Make sure the filter is for a hydraulic system and not for an internal combustion engine. Engine filters don't have a high enough micron filtering capacity to work properly in a hydraulic system. I use a # 1410 filter from NAPA. It is specifically a hydraulic filter. Steve
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1 point
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1 pointI like the lawn Tracs on all 4 corners, really thinking of adding them to the front of my blower tractor.
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1 pointJust a bit more in diameter i meant like my photos attached this was a 3/4" pipe by an 20mm shaft just for example
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1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointPut an HH-70 on the L107 (Avatar Pic) while my Father still had it back about 1990 (Only reason was to get ACR as he was having issues with his shoulder and had been to frugal to buy an L157 in 1967). That HH70 starts instantly year round and in all that time the only issue was some dirt in the carb a few years ago. Never had a points problem (like some on my Kohlers) Think I changed the spark plug a few years ago. She is my chore tractor and is used several time sa week for three seasons and then once a week in the winter. If you want to sell your 7hp techy I would be interested... (Also have his circa 1970 Troybilt tiller with a HH60. Only used once a year but fires up on the third pull and runs great....)
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1 pointLoaded up my 314 with tiller and my nine tine cultivator today frommy garden. For winter storage! Plus going to paint my three cultivator 15 lb weights red!
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1 point
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1 pointI thought it was ironic you posted building and backfilling a tie wall. We've built our wall twice, by hand. They last about 15 years. Our wall goes on forever around our yard, about 300 ties worth. One reason we're doing the loader is a fork attachment would help a lot when the time comes to do it again, just back flling the dirt and mulching it would justify a loader.
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1 point