Leaderboard

A friend (Allis Chalmers GT guy) gave me a heads up over the weekend that the local indoor flea market had a set of ag tires in one of the booths. I was able to go shopping there today and kept my eyes open for them. For $75, I got a pair of 23 10.50-12 USA made Carslile bars, on what look like Cub Cadet rims that are pretty close to NOS(still some nubs on them). They really "beef" up the look of the custom Horse. Mike the Aspie

Having just become the new owner of Anglo Traction’s most immaculate C120, felt it only right to rejoin the Wheelhorse forum. Thank you Richard for doing the best restoration possible on this amazing machine. Simply stunning work every time you restore anything !!! Looking forward to using the C120, mainly for mowing and some hauling. Just too perfect to use really, but that is what they were designed and made for !!! will try hard to look after her.

Tall engine, short hood, NO PROBLEM!

Sorry EB, you will not pry this one out of my hands... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/slime-valve-fishing-tool

Yup I kinda think so..... All I can tell you is if you clowns spent as much time building as worrying about what to name it this build would be done. Hey... I got a novel Idea... how 'bout we call it a tractor???

I've been called a clown before...…..

Few shots after clean up.

if you can contact the seller for the serial number, I keep a registry of these. they were built late 58 to early 60 then porter cable sold off there lawn and garden divisions, the same basic tractor was then built under different names, dura corp, lawnmaster, massey executive, moto mower. I have 2 restored porter cables, one is attached and the one in the pic above at the show belongs to a friend of mine.

I've had both tools. Used them many times. I drive down the road now and leave tires to the shop that likes to play with those rubber menaces.

I bought a similar kit last week off ebay. I have lots of front tires to do, so I bought the mini tire changer a bunch of tires, new stems for tubeless a couple tubes for the ones that are getting tubed, probably some miller lite and time to have fun...

I think length is not my issue, but height still by just a tickle. Referencing the frame as level, I made a block to space the hood mount up. I had to raise the hood by 1/4” to level it out. I might be able to massage the hood stand to raise the rear a bit.

Now, how to mix red and orange, that’s starting to sound like the hardest part of the build!

I would put the battery in front of the grille and dress it off as a "tombstone weight". I am sure you could weld up some kind of cover for it that looked like that.

Richie, thanks for your offer! I might have to take you up on it. I'll talk to Fastenal and see what it might cost to ship something like that. The pump by itself isn't extremely heavy, is it? I've never held one in my hand so I haven't a clue. I certainly don't expect it for free. Steve, I know it was oil because it was the color of oil and wasn't the consistency of ATF. The "tiny bit of oil" I got out of it was drained from the drain plug on the bottom of the tranny. I'm not sure how else I would have drained anything from it. I put 10w-30 back in it and a Wix filter that did not have a bypass in it. I apologize if it appeared that I was rushing and cutting corners. After finding that it wouldn't move, I drained the "new" oil out of it. It was disgusting looking, and I believe it has had water in it. I only got about 2 quarts out of it through the drain plug, though I had poured just a hair under 4 in it. I pulled the new oil filter off of it, pulled the spark plug out of the engine and cranked it over with the starter. It pumped 2 more quarts out into the drain pan. Not sure if that was good on the unit, but I figured it was dead. The pump does appear to be pumping since it pumped oil out, but i know that doesn't mean it'll build pressure. The oil filter had some grainy particulate in it, which may have stopped it up. I bought another oil filter, and I plan on flushing it with some clean oil and trying again. It doesn't appear to leak where the case splits, but the axle seals were wet. I had planned on changing them but wanted to know if the unit worked first. It had an old Wix filter on it, and the trans is not original, so I know it's had some maintenance within the last 50 years. Tow valve is definitely closed. Thanks for your help, Jonah

This is the only one I've ever seen in person.

You know Rich you could always replace/repair the parking pawl some what classier than a 4x4

On page three of this manual you will find a procedure for setting the "Neutral Adjustment" which will stop the tractor. To hold mine in place on a hill I lower the FEL bucket or drop a 4 X 4 on a string that I carry. A bit crude but it works.

I am with Jim on this one.

This is real simple, just dump the two together. When Case did this they called it "Power Red"... not sure where they came up with that name, darn things look orange to me.

How’s that saying go? Bazinga!

So close, yet so far away. The flywheel cover interferes with the battery box. So thanks to some clowns, I’ve gotta build a battery box up front I guess!

It's possible I may be able to help you out here First let me just put out in the front that I am NO Briggs & Stratton expert. I have read or heard in the past that when the older Briggs engines get up around the 12 to 14 horsepower range that is when they start using the large bore updraft carburetor. If you have any pictures of what is on your engine that you could post it would be awesome. I happen to have two of those large bore carburetors but I don't know how complete they are. They came out of the auction pile I got a couple months ago. If you can use them, you pay the freight and they are yours. They look to be in good condition and are not super filthy or anything. Maybe you could throw a gasket or two in one and get your Briggs running?? Let me know...

That’s a thinkin’ chair. Can’t recall the last time I used it! no turning back, no turning back... I think this notch notch will be enough to stick a big block in there!

Waving checkered flag across the hood. Orange and red squares. Also for a battery box you could use a small latching ammo can.

slightly late to the show, but I have two GT-14's here in the UK. One still has the original gas tank with only a small amount of distortion from the exhaust. So I must be very lucky! There is a thread on me splitting the trans somewhere and replacing bearings. As for the wiring it's a pretty simply tractor, and not that hard to run fresh wires from the ignition switch to the battery coil and regulator - it was one of the first jobs I did on mine, still not done the lights yet... The fuel pump died after a year and I've limped on for three years by cranking for ages- just bough a chinese pump for $15 and it has transformed it!

Leave it Long I kinda like the "Mini Alice" look.. Hmm... A name there too.

Did some mock up... the hood stands are the same width! The Charger stand is 1/2” higher, which might help with clearance of the big block. Pay no mind to the funky rear fender placement, this is all rough rough rough draft. Now, it’s time to consider frame length. I want to keep the hood the same length, stretching it just isn’t in my mind for this build. For those who might not know, this isn’t my wife’s only tractor. She has “Elvis Chompers” named by Rylee who just couldn’t roll Allis Chalmers off her tongue. My thoughts or challenge, is make a mini Allis front end out of the longer frame? Shrink the frame to look stock? WHAT SAY YOU?

@pegasus447 back to . That is a sharp looking machine!

Maybe I’ll just spray some WD on it and call it an AC!

Thank you Horsemen! I treated myself to a Reo ST-267 Snow Throw. Needs wo...wo...WORK but looks good and runs.

Yep—looks like orange to me. Call it red if you like case. Kinda like “Carousel Red” on the ‘69 GTO Judge... That also looks orange to me...just sayin!

That looks like a small base big block engine (note the missing ears on the front and back). Didn't realize those came in a c-101, was under the impression that the C series used big base engines.. Thought they were mostly used in the 1045 tractors but then again I don't have an extensive knowledge of what really came in what. It was the first google image that came up. :Shrug:

Me tooooo!!

Still the stocker from the C-101 👍 I’m just trying to prove ya wrong

FYI, the green tape is NOT a cut line, it’s to reference the current battery location.

I have installed millions of lbs of these things in my 24 year experience. LOL and they never get any lighter

Kevin my man. No worries. I like carrots AND potatoes. IT'S ALL GOOD.

And then you have the slow people like me, who just don't get it when the carrot is dangling, but I feel like a potato

Nice! Allistar. pronounced Alister’ as in the name of the actor who played the old black and white Scrooge that most of us have watched every Christmas for years... Love the idea Richie and Eric of putting that battery out front and dressing it like a weight

Now I understand what Eric was talking about, thanks Richie! It would surely help clean things up.

if you need to make room under the hood you can move the battery to the front and put it in its own little box out there.

Name ideas... Allis Star... Allistaire? I may work on putting it together as a long frame like Elvis. I do like the idea of running the mower deck if needed, plus a bit more front end weight if she ever decides to tug-a-war with me or the kids! If I present it to her and she’d rather have it shortened, the option is there.

Thing should be a beast plowing your drive this winter too.

Cast front axle and what appear to be a pretty rugged rear! Very interesting!

Yeah, the floorboard just hasn’t been pulled, in fact I looked at the picture after I posted it, thinking why didn’t I pull that off? as for Elvis, I even thought is would be cool to round out the hood to grill area, like the AC. We’ll see, I still need to make it run!

Nothing like the smell of Kroil in the morning. Makes my heart race.... Cheers! Dave

I did think of having four wheels on rocking beams but decided against it for now. I had bought four wheels extra cheap from eBay. The seller bumped the price up soon after, probably realizing his listing mistake. I made and tried the four wheel arrangement which could be easily changed over via quick release R clips. Could even have three wheels, two one side and one the other. The rocking beam parts before assembly and on the trailer. The steering column was made to hinge down for more compact storage but didn't save much space so just left in the upright position. The bracing strut can be fitted as shown, or in a horizontal position which I thought might make the assembly more rigid. Extra bolt holes were drilled in the face of the seat box. Again left as it is as no difference either way. Some of the column and steering parts. I tried a chain and sprocket first, parts from a lawn mower which were heavy and had too much free movement. Later changed to push / pull rods. The top sprocket which had a D shaped hole was pressed onto it's 1/2" shaft after filing the shaft to fit. Was going to be welded but it hasn't moved yet. The yoke is a mixture of box section and tube shown before welding by the Showman, along with the following parts. Thanks Chris. The bottom sprocket, a 3/8" drive socket, bolt and tube, were all welded together forming the pivot and drive between the trailer and tractor. A piece of shim was inserted to take up the gap around the socket.

You nailed it Mike!

Dude!!! OMG!!!