Leaderboard

Been checking the c-120 + deck over recently, changed over to turfs ready for it's departure. Need the space and so this had to go. So a few final pics before it leaves the home it was reborn in. It departed last Thursday pm - That's 50% of my WH Stock gone !................. I might have to find another to do when I've finished all the other projects. Not much time when you're retired.

Today was a perfect day for a tractor outing, mild temperatures and nice sunny skies..... Unfortunately this year's turnout was down from prior years. I took my 418-C for a little Kruisin in the sunshine. I enjoyed some time and conversation with member @turnnleft and his grandson. They always have a great display and my is the metal-flaked Suburban 400. The rest of his herd is outstanding too including his grandson's peddle RJ. This Cushman Auto Glide was one of many things that caught my eye. Wish they would have taken this early bike off the trailer so I could get a good shot of it. I know we have some chain saw collectors here, this is for you. here are some other garden tractors and other interesting stuff, enjoy.

Downsizing my collection, 20 horses, implements and attachments, spare parts. Red Yard Sale, October 26 & 27 at 5635 East River Road in Grand Island NY 14072

Dude!!! OMG!!!

This will be a picture “tutorial” of what I did to “widen” an eaton 1100 for my GT14. I wanted to replace the worn out sunstrand that was in it with a newer Eaton I had from a 520-H. The problem being is the stock gt14 rear transmission is 29-1/2” wide from axle tip to axle tip. The eaton is way narrower. I finally lucked out on a fix by accident and this is the way I did it. I will continue to add content as I can. This transmission is out of a 418-A I bought for parts. It is being widened in the same way to go in a 1054 for my wife. First I got it on the rotating stand I built. I then pulled the hubs which was a chore. After I got those off I degreased the transaxle and scrubbed all the gunk off of it. While the hubs were off, I installed lug studs in them, 7/16x20-2” tap bolts. loosen and removed the pump. This will also get a new pump to case gasket (part number 108319) upon reassembly. remove brake hub and bracket Split the case. Be careful pulling the case half off. The brake shaft can come out whith the case and there is a shim under it that can come off and end up in the bottom half. So here it is. The stock Eaton 1100 differential with axles. After you split the differential , you’ll find the left axle is 10” long. The right side axle is 13”. I then cleaned out the lower case and rotated it 180*. I inserted the whole axle/diff assembly into the axle housing backwards. This should give you the longer(right) axle facing up. Remove the four bolts hold the differential together. I removed the top axle, top diff case plate leaving the pinions in the bull gear and lower plate. Now remove the longer(right side) axle from the top differential plate. I then removed the shorter(left side) axle from the bottom plate and insert the longer (right side) axle in it’s place. Now take the shorter axle and toss it. I then took a D-160 axle(16-1/2”) and insert it back into the top differential plate. Reinstall it back onto the bullgear/differential assembly and reinstall the four case bolts. The bolts/washers come through the short side and nuts end up on the long side axle(right). Torque these to 35 ft pounds. If you remove the snap rings and gears off the ends of the axles, pay attention to the snap rings. They have a “sharp”side and a rounded side. The gears are also beveled. The above excerpt from the eaton manual shows the correct installation of these parts. I couldn’t get a camera to focus on the details. Long axle pointing up now. 👍 So now you should have an axle assebly that looks like this. A little over 30” from end to end. More on that in a bit. You see the old left axle laying on the ground. May as well install all new axles seals while it’s apart. These are part number 6449. I found these on ebay for less than $10 a pair. They are aftermarket but look identical to the original seals. They are double lip seals. We’ll see how they hold up. New brake shaft seal. CR 7443. New case gasket (part number 108312). Everything back in where it’s supposed to be. all back together with added width. Should be right about 5-5/16” to 5-3/8” sticking out the left side case. If you pull on the axles they will move back and forth a little. I go by 5-3/8” With that being the case, you end up having to cut about +\- 3/8” off the right side to get it the same as the left side. You will end up using a stock smaller keyway on the left side. You will end up with a larger D-180/GT14 size keyway on the right side. Doesn’t matter what hub you run they slide right on. You can use 4 lug Gt14/953/1054 hubs, 6 lug D series hubs or the standard 5 lug hubs. They all fit 1-1/8” axle shafts. Aldon runs 6 lug hubs on his GT22-8, I have 5 lug on my GT14 with custom wheels. Your choice. The 4 and 6 lug hubs are wider with more surface area on the axle. Again, you have a smaller keyway on one side and a larger one on the other. Just depends on what you plan to do with the tractor your putting it in. People have been abusing eaton 1100’s with the smaller keyway axles. Also, all the puller preferred 8 speed transmissions have the smaller keyways too. Your choice. There you have it. A “widened” Eaton 1100 that will now work in a GT14 (of course the linkage and connecting parts will have to be modified a little). This one as said before will be going in a 1964 1054. That is what has to be cut off for the hub to sit even with the axle. This is what the cut is like. This is after the axle is cut and filed down. That’s it. I have been asked about this several times and wanted to make a video but I don’t have a camera man to help film so I guess this will have to do. Hope this answers some questions that some have had. I’ll continue on later about the linkage if anyone wants to see that. Any questions, ask away.

Trina took this picture so she's not in it. That's a couple of our best friends to either side of me. This was taken almost at the end of a 7-mile hike that we did yesterday through a place called Ice Gulch in Randolph New Hampshire. This was an absolutely incredible hike. Huge amounts of bouldering and climbing and caving. I believe this was the best hike with the most fun and most challenge we've had that was under 10 miles. The two mountain bumps that you see on the right hand side of this barn are Mount Jefferson. Here's a few more pictures from the hike

Hey! I know you guys have rough weather in Maine, but now I understand why. For crying out loud, your water is so tough that it flows SIDEWAYS! Nice photos, Eric! Cheers! Dave

Got an envelope from the vinyl guy today. Awesome stuff as always.

We get heavy wet snow more often than not. I have a small driveway with not a lot of room to put snow. I've been moving piles back with Elvis but it gets to be a pain when half the snow stays in the bucket and you have to jog the loader. I had an extra 42" WH blade so I made up a Prototype. Comes on and off with pins. Bungee is temporary until I can come up with something better.

Thanks Gents, Yeah bit of a shame to see it go, but it needs some hard labour and do what it was built for. I can no longer give a workout, so it has gone to a good friend of mine and will be well worked and cared for. I've also been told I have to travel down for a spell and have a few rides. So our paths will cross again. Treated myself to a farewell beer (plus it's the Austin F1 GP qualifying tonight). I won't cry into the beer...honest!. Spookily, the Brewery of this, my current preferred ale is only 6 miles away from where the C-120 is going (County of Dorset)- Oh! and the piston is from 1922, one of my current projects Thanks again. Regards.

We built one 😂

Glad you weren't seriously hurt.The story is a good reminder that bad things can happen, even if we are careful.

Well, I received a voicemail this morning with a counter offer $50 higher. With the “nothing to lose” mindset, I called back, explained that I am a collector with girls in the hobby too and that I was firm on my bid. They accepted! I’ve got until 3 to get there...

I have used nylon "zip ties" and a soldering iron and basically "welded" the plastic back together on a tank. if you take your time you can melt the crack back together and fill it with zip tie strips.. Sand it and paint it and it would look brand new.

Thanks Kevin! I try to get better at it as I go. Lots of ideas, not enough time to pursue it all. Keep an eye out.....Got a little RJ project in the works.

Got it a stable mate, it was getting depressed by itself.

Sheesh... What a day. I have the thing out where I can work on it now. Everything started and moved except the RR brake was stuck on my Datsun. They used an aluminum brake drum.. Dissimilar metal corrosion. Finally got it free and the car moved. Next, i tried to drag the thing with two flat front tires. I remembered it being heavy, but dang.. My back wasn't having it. About that time, the mail man dropped off the tubes for the front tires, and I've been putting them in for the last while. It now rolls and steers! I have to clean up here in a bit, so I doubt I'll have time to really tackle the transmission issue. I think i'll go ahead and throw the new carb on it, rig up a gas tank and see if I can't get it to fire up. I did come across the gas tank shield, so I should be good in that regard.

Went on our first big/long haul trip this morning with a cord of firewood for my parents back in WV, that beast of a big block gets 8-10 MPG loaded, stopped on way back home at the top of a mountain that is the state line of WV and VA on US route 33, @ebinmaine I think the truck driver in you will appreciate this part , 8% grade 8+ miles up and down and this old rig climbed all the 4.5 miles up the WV side empty in 4th (high gear) and 3rd gear full up the VA side going over, hope you all enjoy the views, Jeff.

That's what all the folks are here for. Not telling you what to do. I'm a very calm person overall. I don't think it's worth the rise in your blood pressure to worry about what someone is not doing correctly. I've lived in Maine and Massachusetts but have no experience in Connecticut. Both States I have lived in, many shops are forced by law to give a written estimate in certain businesses. Auto repair and appliance repair. I don't know about tractor and small engine repair. What's the chances you have a copy of the original writings? Or can ask to see it. I'm normally a very straight up, no option b type person. If I ask you to do something it's because that's what I wanted done. If you bring to the attention of the person that you asked for 6 things to be ESTIMATED and then they called you and said that two had been REPAIRED without being estimated, I feel like you have the right to pay for your machine so you can get it in your possession and then ask for a refund or argue the charges out with your credit card company or something. As far as fixing your machine... The people on this website will be more than happy to get you back up and running with minimal tools and knowledge necessary. I know that from experience. Huge wealth of information and kindness here.

The tank does have some heat damage. I'll go see if I have the heat shield shortly. One thing that I know I have (or had) that got separated from my parts is the air cleaner 90 degree elbow that places the air cleaner outside of the hood. I recall putting it in a place that "i just knew I would remember"... you know how that goes. Hopefully I can find it, as It looks like it might need to be installed prior to the tank. Richie, If I cant find my shield, then I'll be interested in yours. I'll follow your method when working on the tank. I'd just used an epoxy, but I've yet to find any that will stick to polyethylene and hold up to gasoline. I have to move a few old cars that haven't been run in months so that I can get my Datsun (Which i haven't run in about 2 years) out of the way to work on the GT.. I'll report back with my findings here in a bit once I can get to it. Thanks!

How's the belt? Chunk out or rough spot.also a well worn belt deep in the pulley can do it too

Makes me hurt when I picture that in my brain. Glad you were not hurt badly, and tongue in intact!

Gravity don't play, heal fast... and keep stepping my friend.

I don’t see your problem? The only drawback is only one butt, so the other tractors just need to wait their turn!

I was trying to figure out if I could surprise The Mafia, but just couldn’t swing it. happy dirt rolling guys!

Went for transmission fluid for the Allis 720 when I spotted something in the metal bin at the tire shop, turned out to be an air compressor head. Ingersoll Rand T30 they said I could have it. Never asked why they discarded it, turns over and pushes air, from my quick observation one of the V-belts was running loose which means the air head was misaligned. When and of my Quincey ever gives up the ghost I'll have a spare. One time I purchased a nice Webster from a garage, when the 5 horse burnt out they had replaced it with a 3 horse with a smaller pulley and since the unit was also mounted up high no one ever drained the tank. That 80 gallon tank was two thirds full of water leaving no capacity for air, and this was a truck stop. The farm has their big Ingersoll Rand compressor with a 120 gallon tank mounted up high as well but they at least installed and automatic water discharge on the tank

While it's not Wheel Horse branded, I think these gears might have originality been red... I'm the most recent owner of a set of wagon gears that I couldn't pass up. Plan to restore them and use them as the base for a portable hunting shed. Just picked them up tonight and still trying to identify them. I think I can see some ID numbers cast into the integral wheel hubs and possibly even an IH surrounded by a large "C," meaning they may be International Harvester gears. 95% of the fasteners are square headed bolts and nuts, and the bracket for the tongue is 4" wide, leading me to believe it was built prior to WWII and used with a wooden tongue as a horse drawn wagon. I'm reasonably sure I read somewhere that the time period for farm implements to change over to hex headed fasteners was during the 1930s. I've just got two preliminary photos taken where she sat when I bought her. More research to follow and more photos, too. Cheers! Dave More on the Farm Truck Wagon..... It is definately an International Harvester Corporation set of gears. Confirmed that this morning in good light and the aid of a wire brush. The green algae growing on it had me fooled. Thought it might be of John Deere heritage. One I got of the wire brush I found blue paint on the hubs, red paint on the wheels and the frame surely was painted IH red at some point. It needs tires and a good sandblasting before paint, but it should be worth the time to fix 'er up. It will be a good winter project for my new shop. Cheers, again! Dave

Geez! Let's just say that we have a good group of folks here!! I'll even say our Marines are kinda good. 😂 @Tankman 😋 I had a great interaction with a couple fellers around here. Both are good folks! BTW, Go Ordnance! 😀

Altona Illinois is 4 miles from my home town of Oneida. My best friend Doc Mills and I were just out of High school and always scouting the Town dump for anything we could use. Best find was a 1958 ford retractable. We knew the guy hauling it to the dump and 30 minutes later we drug it home behind Ole Blue. Doc's 1954 F-100. We had big plans for it but then Doc was shipped off to Vietnam and everything changed. I went to work on the Burlington Northern and got married. Doc unfortunately spent the next 14 Months in Hell. As I think about it now, those days cruising the dumps for treasures and dreaming of what we might build with the cool stuff we scavenged were some of the greatest times of our lives. Sure miss the the good ole days.

I just want to put out for the record here that all of these photos were taken by Trina. She's the one with the amazing photographic eye. They're sideways because she turns her phone and I can't turn them back on my own phone.

The transmission only had a a tiny bit of oil in it. No water. I pulled two port caps out of the top of the hydro unit and poured some ATF in. I let it sit a while and then I grabbed the pulley and put some twist on it - it moved about two inches. I let it sit for about an hour, came back and I was able to easily move it back and fourth about an inch. I poured some more ATF in it, rocked it a few times and it began to spin freely. I kept pouring small amounts into one of the ports on top and it would suck it in as soon as I turned the pump. I'm going to get a new filter and fill it up with oil tomorrow. Hopefully the unit is good. I believe it was just dry stuck.

Started a little paint work on my work horse resto with a twin onan and 8 pinion rear diff

No horses yet, but I did put 2 no name lawn mowers out to pasture...

Old saying from the drag racing Community back in the 60s I believe. There's no replacement for displacement. Just can't beat one of them big blocks for hauling heavy loads. Glad to hear that went well. Thank you for sharing those pictures. You've got some beautiful country down there just like we do here.

You're doing fine... keep your original thread going here.

Love this thread. Awesome that folks are Sooooo helpful.

I would just start by sticking the soldering iron in at the ends of the crack. Then weave the solding iron back and forth across the crack slowly melting the two sides back together. Then once you have melted the entire crack together, go back and start melting the zip ties into the crack seam slowly. Let it harden up and then sand it. You could even fill it with epoxy, then sand and paint it. Hope this helps. I sealed a 200 gallon water tank this way till they could find a new one and it held for almost a year and a half.

Just noticed something else you said. The idler pulley which is attached to the "parking brake" handle, must be in the down position to tension the drive belt properly which allows the engine pulley to rotate the tranny pulley. If that idler is in the up position and not tensioned against the drive belt, the tractor will either not move at all, or very little. That handle also operates a locking pawl in the tranny when pulled up, but its not a "parking brake" or even a stopping brake in the conventional sense. Often the handle gets used to try and stop a tractor on the move, but over time it usually destroys the teeth on the pawl, rendering it useless. Never engage the pawl with the tractor moving or rolling.

No the plastic tank and the cast iron grill are two separate pieces. The '69 grill was open in front which exposed the plastic tank to potential damage. Later models had a solid cast grill in front covering the gas tank. Here's Aldon's gas tank repair thread: *** Additionally, after looking at the pic of the ID tag on your Sundstrand tranny, I don't think you have an original GT 14 Sundstrand tranny. Somebody in the past may have already done a tranny replacement on your tractor. Does your tractor had four bolt/lug hubs??? My understanding was all GT 14s came with 90-2062 model trannies. Here's the ID tag on my tranny: Here's your tranny tag pic (90-1160) rotated 180 degrees:

Trailer has that "classic" look have you considered a wood slat bed like in old trucks? Varinshed would look cool and no burning a bigger hole in the bed of the trailer? Might look pretty cool.

Oak blocks to replace return rollers is not that unusual.Seen it many times on old 2cylinder JD crawlers.I have seen a few with oak blocks as support roller replacements.That is one of the many challenges of old crawlers.The fixes people come up with to get one more job or season out of them is amazing.One of the reasons I like messing with crawlers is the very thing photographed.Way more than new tires and paint to get them up and presentable.JMHO.

Would like to see some pics or videos of it running. That looks really cool!

This forum is more or less how I start my day, and end it. I'm trying to learn all I can about this hobby and keep in touch with friends I've made. And a big thanks to all for sharing your knowledge and being supporters of this forum.

Made some more progress. Cleaned and rebuilt the carb, Ran new fuel line and filter. Installed the new coil. Seemed to run decent for a few minutes then after attempting to drive it, started running like the carb was messed up again. Made some adjustments and it was better but then acting up. Even though I have a nice new fuel filter installed, wondering if some crud got by it.I guess I gotta tear it apart again. Installed an old style headlight lens too. Although not correct, it looks way better then the smashed one that was on there.

Also, the 603 has no rear fenders.

If you guys don't win but would like one, we'll work it out that way. If one of you do win and the other still wants one, I can hold it till I get another made and then ship them together. Sound good? Just have to play catch up now Got to go make some cups

Looks repainted? Just sold one of my sk486's for $450 and a bottle of tequila. Bought it for $200, put $250 into it. Swapped the deck for a 4' plow. It went to a family member. Still gotta get the decals

I have picked up a lot of things from our city dump, also known around here as the Country Store. One of my best scores was an old Montgomery Ward's riding mower...took it home out gas in and it ran like a champ...still using it to mow around the farm. This sign was my latest find...thought it was cool since my Grandpa started his working career with Northern Natural, then at Enron, then back to Northern before finally retiring from DCP Midstream. Soon it will be hanging on the wall in the shop.