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There are several thread on here about removing exhaust nipples. I had my second and unexpected success today removing the nipple for a 16hp K single. I am stripping it so it can go to the machine shop. The 16hp K's use a reduction bushing in addition to the nipple. I only planned on removing the nipple and leaving the bushing in place as I figured the machine shop could work around it and i figured also it would be a bear to get out and maybe damage the block in the process. Thus I treated the nipple threads with PB Blaster, Kroil and In-Force over a few days. Whacked it with a hammer every time I walked by. Used propane torch but no movement Dug out the air chisel and the blunt point tip. Pounded a divot in the pipe then angled the chisel against the side of the divot. Low and behold the nipple started to turn. Had to make a second divot to keep an good angle as it moved. Then it stopped, Darn..some more chiseling an suddenly the reduction bushing backed out of the block.. i hadn't soaked its threads but it came!! In a vice finally separated the nipple and bushing. Nipple is destroyed but the bushing can be reused.

Woke up to this sunday morning in MN The wife and kids made the best of it witu a couple of snowmen

Now I have to find someone else to pick on and lie about .@squonk made me type that.

Yeah that is one good thing about it. Both keyways are in excellent shape as are the hubs. I think this 20M is going to fit.👍

Got the transmission on the stand for the “widening” of the axles. Been fighting the hubs. The first one practically jumped off but the second was having no part of it. Been soaking it and heating it now for almost 3 weeks and finally tonight after some heating sessions, she let go. Converted them already to lug studs and put them away. After I get it cleaned up, I’ll split it and get going on it.

Happy Birthday @Wheelhorsestory, we are all glad you were born!

So I figured I'd give you guys who gave me advice an update. Stevasaurus put me on the right track. It was actually a combination of things. I found a very small leak in the head gasket. It was under the motor shroud and not visible until I took it off to check the head bolt torque. I also found that in the main carb needle, the lower hole was clogged. I cleaned and reassembled the whole carb, took off the head, cleaned it up and installed a little gasket sealer on the metal gasket and put it all back together again. Seems to have solved the problem and she is running much better now. I give a heartfelt thanks to all those who gave me advice and put me on the right track, and also for welcoming me here.

Finally finished, with a better background now...maybe a calendar shot? Who knowssss... its been a fun project and now i have to find another one to start on!

proma. We're all addicted to our s and we'll help you become addicted too.

Gotta say I don’t think there’s much value in that tractor. Way to rough to restore or even patina. I tell you what, i’ll Take it off of your hands to prevent you from having to spend any more money on it. Promise I’ll give it a good home😂! Seriously, very nice survivor. I’d just clean it up, give it a going over mechanically, and enjoy it! Very nice score!

Not as nice as that table, but my FIL and I built my sons, now my daughters, crib. It converts to a toddler and then full size bed. It’s Poplar and Whie Oak. This picture certainly doesn’t do it justice, but the addition we’re adding on is to get our lawn equipment out of the wood shop to be usable again.

Glad to see the kids having a good time Mike @prondzy. My girls were out too. Notice on the sidewalk they had to retrieve the kickball bases that were left out from the night before! Snowed in Kasson from before dawn till about 4pm. Hate to think what the measurement would have been if the ground had already been frozen! I had about 2 inches that stayed overnight to this morning. I'm sure it's gone now. and funny ... I know the ground wasn't frozen because about 15 hours prior to that picture I took this one!

Picked it up a while back for $300. Sold the WH trailer that came with it for $150 and the turf tires for $50. Plan to hang onto the original deck that came with it. Sold some free 23" ags and rims for a buck forty.......bam! I'm in for a cool $100.including the new ags. Hydro and the 14 HP Onan that couldnt run better. 500 hours plus change. Now what????

I know JimD would have loved this one! We miss you Jim.

You’re going to love that twin Briggs. They have tons of power and are bullet proof in my experience. Here’s my dad’s that I have now. All he did to it was regular maintenance and some rattle can from time to time to protect the metal. He replaced the seat pan with metal almost 40 years ago. I’ve painted the wheels, replaced the tires, and added WH wheel weights since these pics were taken a couple years ago but other than that it’s just like dad used it for about 3 decades. It sat in his basement after he passed away for almost 10 years until I pulled it out and got it running again.

Changed oil and plug on her this morning. Layed the tar paper before we get more rain on her new house about an hour ago. Now im going to use the as of yesterday working lighter, light a smoke, and relax for the rest of the evening

One of Jim Kemps setups, 1” pipe to the head...easy install once i got the little manifold off

Jim Kemp let us know he was building a Nelson muffler replacement for the one on a 312.He was generous enough to send me one for evaluation.Here is what I found.Jim's muffler is very well built using a thicker shell.This shell shows no visible seam and the entire unit is about 50% heavier than stock.The inlet is set up for 1" pipe so that it can't be mounted to the stock Kohler elbow.I informed Jim about this and he is going to look into this issue.I have tested the prototype for sound quality comparing it to a pepper pot,generic replacement and stock Nelson.Sound measurements taken at the camera location show that Jim's prototype is the quietest of all 4 mufflers and 7 decibels lower than the first 2.

What is this drill used for. There is a piece that screws out of the handle that is used to advance the drill bit. It ratchets like a ratchet wrench and there are three detente to choose from that you can see in the picture to select from to position the drill. There is a point on the opposite end of the drill that I'm guessing is used so you can push it up against something so the drill will cut. That is what the piece that screws out of the handle is for. I'm guessing it is used to drill holes in ceiling joists.

I have salvaged a lot of parts from other three speeds to replace worn gears and shafts in 953 trans axles and the only thing that is different is the differential and axles. If I recall correctly @stevasaurus said the six speed and eight speed internals are the same as the older three speeds. I know that the 1533 bearings are in all of them as well as the 3523 gear.

A Dentist drill

Looks like a wider door is in the future. Or is there another entrance? Thought often 'bout a 60" deck but would need a wider entrance. Oh well, the 48's are fine. I did power wash a deck today, blew it off with the compressor, greased all the zerks. Now this weekend I'll invite the boys over for lunch ().

Now that's funny.

Yah know Ritchie I would rather have a fight with them hubs. Better chance of things being kosher underneath that way rather when they slide right off. Know what I mean?

Light a smoke.... as in cigarette or nice cigar?

The devistation is great. We lnow several that lost everthing. We were lucky, but many were not. We now have power, so it is much quieter, except for the chainsaws and lineman working. I have much more to clean up.

That's one funny looking chicken brother

PO = Post Office PO = Probation Officer PO = Previous Owner PO’d = put out in the genteel world, pee’d off to most others Lengerish8, it sure seems like you are off to a great start with your tractor. Cleaning the carb never hurts, especially with current gasoline tending to leave varnish deposits in the little passages within the carb. It’s fairly easy to clean. A couple of tips: when removing the carb on a Kohler K181, it helps to remove the air cleaner housing completely by removing the wing nut to release the cover, then removing the cleaner element to expose the two small screws holding the housing to the carb body. After that, remove the fuel hoses, one from the tank and the other from the fuel pump. If your hoses are stiff, they may crack and cause future leakage. This is a good time to replace the hoses with new. Bulk hose is widely available at parts houses. After removing the hoses, loosen the two bolts holding the carb to the block. They have to be unscrewed each a little at a time, as it may be difficult to totally remove one at a time due to tight quarters. Once the bolts are removed, you will be left holding the carb attached by a small linkage rod to the governor arm. Remember which end goes where and be careful not to lose the linkage rod. Lost rods can be replaced, but are several dollars each if you can find them. After you have the carb removed, it is time to disassemble. Before removing the high and low speed adjustment jets, it may be helpful to carefully (gently, with care not to jam them at the bottom) turn them clockwise until they bottom out, keeping track of exactly the number of turns, to help you when you replace them again. If you have some carb cleaner, like Berryman’s or similar, soak the jets for an hour or longer, then blow dry them with compressed air. Next, remove the bolt holding the carburetor bowl in place. Remove bowl, clean it and dry it. Next, remove the float pin, lift the float off, and remove the “needle valve”/fuel flow control valve. If there is a little hair spring attached to the valve, take note of how it attaches. Depending on how far you wish to disassemble, you may decide to unscrew the brass valve seat located beneath the fuel flow control valve just removed. Same for high and low speed jets. Dirt can hide beneath these brass valve seats and can cause problems later, after you have cleaned and reassembled everything else with the assumption all is clean and good. Sometimes you can get away with leaving the valve seats in place, but usually not. After all is disassembled, you have a choice.....wither immerse the carb body entirely in a suitably sized container for an hour or longer....OR, take a risk and blow it out with compressed air. When I am needing a functional carb and don’t have the patience to wait for a soak, I tend to forego the soak for the blasts of air to clean and dry the carb for reassembly. Frankly, this works a good share of the time, but on occasion I have found skipping the soak to be a mistake and I have to disassemble again and do it right. Next, reassemble using NEW gaskets. I have reassembled using both gaskets and sealant, too, but if great care is taken to not slop the sealant onto places that shouldn’t have it, then use gaskets without sealant. As they say, YMMV (your mileage may vary!). Once reassembled, follow the disassembly process in reverse until the carb is back in place. Take care to install the throttle/governor linkage rod before putting the cap screws back which hold the carb to the engine block, as you can’t put that rod back in afterwards without bending the rod and possibly breaking it due to metal fatigue. Install the new fuel hoses using the retainer clips that hold them to the fan shroud and tighten the hoses using tiny, REAL adjustable hose clamps. Those little wire clips are not always cooperative to reinstall and a 1/4” nut driver sure makes installing the hose clamps much easier, too. Remember to readjust the high and low speed jets at this time, using the settings you took note of when removing them. These settings may no longer be correct now that the carb has been cleaned, but they serve as good starting points as you fine tune them. If you have an engine service manual, or have found online instructions for how to set these jets, follow the instructions closely and your engine should purr along just fine. One last thing is to install a new fuel filter in the fuel line and check to be sure the fuel shutoff valve isn’t leaking. If so, put a new valve in also. You stated that you had, or were about to, replace the spark plug. Good. Also, this is a good time to replace the points and condenser. This is another process that has probably been addressed in this forum multiple times before. Follow instructions carefully to be sure you have the points clearance set properly and your engine should then run as good as it is capable of running, provided there are no further issues like leaky intake/exhaust valves or compression problems. You may already be very accomplished at doing carb cleaning, and don’t need any coaching, but for others following this thread who may not be, perhaps these tips will be of some help. As has been said earlier, these are mighty fine little short frame tractors. Except for the single pedal for brake and clutch control, there is little if anything else that they need to make them more operator friendly. I’ll not be parting with mine anytime soon!

THANKS TO ALL WHO RESPONDED TO MY POSTING. I replaced the drive belt, that seems to have solved the problem. I also put in a new PTO clutch and brake; oiled the needle bearings on the PTO and put in a new battery - old one was dead. Put the snow thrower on (it'll snow soon) all I needs is a belt for the snow thrower and we're ready for winter. Again thanks to all!

That is a shame and i will leave it at that, even though there is much more to be said.

Now you just need a little snow so it can feel needed. Horses don't like to just sit in the barn!

RMR-3261 is the mower deck model - 32" in 1961 Click on the picture Garry

So I'm learning 😂

'horses are well known to be herd animals. And can get mildly addictive.

Gonna be grabbing my grandpa's late 70s Snapper, and the neighbor mentioned his dad having a wheel horse sitting in the barn......12x20 may not be enough room hahaha

These were taken before I finished it. The base is welded to an old mule drive and at this point everything on it was from the scrap pile.

953 Nut: You've got to post a video of that leaf blower at work!!! Dave

The belt length could certainly be different with a replacement engine. Can you measure the old belt. I buy my belts at TSC and when in doubt, buy several lengths and return the ones that do not fit. Be aware the belt will not disengage if the belt guard is not installed.

I currently have this saw mill hooked up to an Oxford Allen scythe , I plan to convert it to run on one of my tractors hopefully it will fit to my RJ58 it already has a kohler k90 which I plan to transplant onto the RJ

Those are nice Lane... share the link here buddy.

Awesome stuff there Jeff.

Here's an ice wafer from a bucket. High 20s at the day's start.

that's the way I'm leaning right now. I was talking to my father last night and he actually has one laying around he's not using. They used to use it to pull heavy rolls of carpet and vinyl into the cutting area. I was thinking if there was a way I could pin that in place instead of bolting it so I could take it off easily and quickly to use for pulling logs in the forest or whatever it would be super handy.

That is not a saw mill, it is a PTO to drive agricultural equipment.

As posted above... I decided to change the wheels and tires... to an 8" wheel set from an old crapsman that were laying around. There'll be heavier tires on and a little wider track width. Also, we can use the current tires on Trina's Ohio Steel trailer. This one will end up with 16 inch tires left over from the front of a Wheelhorse. The hubs on the "new" wheels are deeper than the others so I have to change the axle rod. I picked up a piece of 3/4" x 48" steel from a popular big box store. I removed the axle rod and started cleaning up the wheels by wire brushing the axle holes.