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This just popped up fairly local. Have a text into the guy to discuss but no call back yet. Think it would make a nice little show cruiser for the Missus which is what he used it for. Still has the deck as well. Asking 500 for it which I think might be fair what with 3 new batteries?? Said to be a '69? We are offering for sale a real nice vintage (antique ?) 1969 Wheel Horse (Wheelhorse) A-60 (A60) riding lawn mower with $300 of NEW batteries installed. This one looks to be in original condition and runs and drives very well. We bought it to use as a flea maket, swap meet, get-around. As such, we removed the blade deck and installed the Coca-Cola open what-not trunk. We still have the blade deck in storage, which worked well when it was removed. We cleaned it up, put a new rubber floor mat in it, put new front tires on it, and just installed the (3) new deep-cycle batteries. It has an on-board, built-in battery charger. All you have to do is plug it in. It has a 6-speed linear shift-on-the-go type of mechanical transmission. We have really enjoyed it as on-grounds transportation and have mixed feelings about selling it. It will go all weekend as our get-around without needing recharging or slowing down. We did wash it before we took the photos, and it was still wet. The paint is not as glossy as it appears in the pictures, when it is dry. While this rider is very clean and runs and drives like well with brand new batteries, it is still a 40-ish-year-old mechanical, electrical item and thus, is being sold as is, where is, with now guarantees or warranties.

I went to pick up a Eaton 1100 to replace one on a fresh water flooded 520H.It took two of us to transfer it by hand from one truck to the other.I could have assembled my engine hoist but figure this might be quicker.

I'm not even sure what you just said

You just can't settle with an odd number, can you?

I don't normally pass this stuff on but a guy says he has a 59 wheel horse for sale locally. He wants $2000 and no way he will get it, but it looks very original to me with very nice patina. I sent a note about the front wheels, we will see if he still has them. It looks like it has the serial number sticker on it to me. I also asked about it and if he could get a pic. What do you guys think? Its on craigslist in KC if anyone is interested. Randy

@WHX21 I think you have a problem . Too much money on hand burning a hole in your pocket . Send me some I have bills to pay and none for a horse.

Hello All, I picked up a nice 417-8 today. Tractor is complete and in very good condition. Was told it needs a head gasket. No battery but in turned the engine over by hand, no noises. Has a very nice 48” deck. Nice paint and tires heck, the chrome still shines. Has the electric lift on it. Mike

I have a C-160, 16 hp. Were these available with a loader option? If it doesn't sell and we keep it we'd like to add one. Perhaps a 6 cu foot bucket or smaller to move mulch, similar to a Woods LS series or the old J-D lawn and garden one they discontinued.

Well to start off with ,I brought home a 1045 in pieces some months back,and started assembling it last week .turns out my rear hubs where not in the pile lol. Im sure there still at my buddies place on the rims .being that is 500 miles im going to make a set to get me by till i make it back up there So I will post so pics of the progress in the days to come .I will be using a C series hub from my 120 as pattern for this project ,it's not like the 1045 hubs would look like but will get me by till I get the original ones back one day Will be making from Extruded aluminum as its better grade .I probably could make then out of cast iron but the aluminum will go alot faster and be easier for me bore right now well hopefully so stay tuned if you interested pic of the 1045 waiting on hubs

Getting closer

If you have way more time than money and are as thrifty a some here just make your own repair end. I have taken a scrap piece of 3/16" ID copper tube, cleaned it well, squeezed one end in the vise, drilled a hole and then crimped and soldered it to the old # 6 AWG cable. Took less time than driving to town and back.

Member, evanloock, has been around this site a long time doesn't post much but knows his WH stuff. He is getting pounded hard right now, say a little prayer for him and his family. Chris.

He can't settle with an even number either Dan Jim, don't be greedy. I could use some of that too. We'll split his cash 50/50.

No need to change HIS name on here! It won't be Jim's, it will be his wife's.

Here you guys few of the steps this morning got it keyed and bolted to tractor still need to pour other hub and drill and tap lug holes Buying would take all the fun out of this project. Started around 8 central time

Go for it! It's a neat little horse! What's another screen name change lol

I had no trouble reading any of your posts! Of course here in Central Pennsylvania most of us can trace our ancestry back to Germany, my family came from somewhere called Baden Germany in 1710, so maybe that is just my German roots helping me haha. Anyway, glad you are here on the forum and we are most happy to help!! Mike

Only when the garden tractor mafia pulls me into their campsite... and then apple cobbler.

The other brand my auto parts store normally has is Autolite so i use them. I also use copper core wires and non resistor plugs frequently. My old tractors with Mags like that and works on the whs well also. if i interferes with some yuppies GPS driving down my dirt road TDB.

My daughter in law had a Suburban that wouldn't start or take a jump and I found that the positive battery cable was corroded all the way through the wire from end to end so I just replaced the whole wire with both ends and it worked great after that!

A small Advice : It doesn't matter what you choose, but if you crimping, use qualified pliers. Use after fixing petroleum jelly to protect the new soldered or crimped end, it is the same as Battery Terminal Grease. Applicate it with a small short brush, so it reduces the mess. you can use it even to protect any other contacts from mess. I use it at least at 25 years on all my Cable ends and contacts for all my Vehicles, once of my Motorbike and also for my Car and even my Wheelhorse ! I prevents Water from the contacts and cable and the cable ends lasted much longer.

You may have to cut off more cable than you want as the corrosion can travel from the terminal up the cable....

Ran across this picture, supposed to be a factory WH loader but??? Only pic I could find of one... so far.

If the rest of the cable is ok I would just cut it back till I get to some good meat and re-term. That's if you don't have to cut much back and make it too short. If the other end is even just a bit corroded just replace it.

I wanna Thank you all, especially everybody who's guiding me, to find Parts i need. It was a pleasure, to being in such a great Forum. Good To see, here are also some Guy's they are "normal" like me, This disturbed my hesitation to log in. Additionally i hesitate, because of my English (Denglish) and my spelling, but so far it seems to be not to Bad at all. (i hope)😎 When i see first time my Tractor, i hesitate about possibly upcomeing Troubles. That it be an US Product, makes it even harder here in Germany, to find some good Parts needed. With a actual runtime, of more as 2430 hour's at Pickup and because of the damages of Fire hazard, it was a challenge to bring it back to Live. But i love the Shape of it, so i decided to get it back to life. I know, for some guy's it will be not a real Wheelhorse, but it does't matter. Hey, it lasted about 27years, not Bad at all, ok it's maybe only a "Youngtimer" but it still lasts without bigger Troubles. I do a lot of investigation in the whole Web, to find any Information about my Wheelhorse before, with less Success. Then i found that Forum and found first qualified and good Info's about my little Tractor. I feel myself Welcome, thanks Therefore. Stefan

A neighbor had replaced a worn engine in his Mazda pick up truck with another then let the truck sit idle foe a few years and during this time the clutch disk had rusted itself to the flywheel. He now wanted to use the truck but it would not go into gear with the engine running. He had acquired a few estimates from transmission shops to remedy the problem, I'm guessing with the estimate and cost of the tow it was to much to swallow then one day approached me with an offer of $100.00. I gladly accepted the offer telling him that I would be over later in the day. Jacked the truck up then removed the dust cover, had the wife depress the clutch peddle while I placed a large chunk of brass against the flywheel to hammer on with a broken chisel with a blunted end. Turned he flywheel a third repeating the procedure then another third. Climbed out from user the truck then started the engine, the transmission slipped nicely into gear at this time gave a momentary slip to polish to rust free. The job took less than 20 minutes, I'm now asking to be paid and the look on the neighbors face was priceless. I used a 20 lb propane tank filled with propane as my propellent, those rattle cans of paint you use in most cases use the same propellent. Another buddy had purchased a K car that had the same problem, when Ross phoned me I told him that I got $100.00 for the last one I did, on his I accessed the rim of the flywheel via the timing hole located near the top of the bellhousing. Ross had an air compressor we completed the job n less than 10 minutes. I once bought a John Deere model 70 that sat in a field for years and the multi plated clutch disk had rusted solidly into place and would not move, air chisel to the rescue. Unfortunately non of the parts were salvageable and had to be replaced with new. In my tool box you'll find a short and long stroke pneumatic chisel. The short stroke works good for seized parts, lots of vibration while applying penetrating oil.

Sounds like it’s a pretty rare occurance, so odds are it will get me! I’m paying better attention teachers!

It needed a new switch and solenoid anyway Some help you are! Fine be one ....and when we do finger it out we ain't gonna say what the problem was when it crops up on one of your tractors!

@pullstart 😂 @Professor1990, thank you! @WHX21, not at this time 😂 @oliver2-44, Thanks! I’ll have to check it out! Luckily I don’t think I’ll need much, which could either make things easier or harder, time will tell lmao. The way weve got things situated right now, the tractor is in our garage, and I move it out to the drive way during the day so we have a bit more room to get around. I had my Radio Flier wooden wagon I got as a kid (probably 25-26years ago) hooked to the back of the tractor so I could take my little guy for a ride. Guy stopped and asked if I’d “take 200 for both”. I told him if he could pay me in “unmarked, non-sequential, 1 dollars bills that pre date the assassination of Arch Duke Ferdinand” he could have it. Unfortunatly the joke went right over his head and I had to tell him “No.”

Now it’s starting to sound like you’re just throwing parts at it! I don’t have any sound advice, so I figured I’d be a smart ***.

Missed this one but will and ask the age old question. .. that one for sale?

It’s not knowledge of garden tractors that gets you initiated, it’s that crooked little grin that nobody can get off your face when you’re playing around with them that invites you in!

Your Stefan, yes don't worry about the language thing. If you need to get an thought, idea or question across use your native language if more comfortable. Most of us are versed in Google translate! 'Sides @pullstart speaks fluent gibberish and BS and that ain't exactly on translate but we still understand him! Be advised we do use a bit of American slang here such as NLA, NOS and POS so if you see those and don't understand just ask, a member will be sure to clear things up Enjoy the forum and please do use it to learn and educate others!

Here's the muffler

We don’t need proper English (nor do we always use it properly) to share tractor stories here! They all speak the language, whether we do or not! Putt putt putt putt

Given the fact that I have nearly new or new tires and I want to install them and inflate them is there an advantage or disadvantage or pros and cons or ups and downs or goods and bads.... To using tubes. The reason I want to use them is that it's just plain easier in some situations because of not being able to seat the bead properly with a low-volume compressor. Ladies and gentlemen, what be your thoughts?

That appears to be the long frame unit. Having the axle bracket with it is a big plus.

Thanks for the info brother I think this might help me out!!👍

Yes those and Walmart too.https://www.autozone.com/exterior-lighting/clearance-light/blazer-clearance-light/378117_0_0....or...https://www.walmart.com/ip/Optronics-MC-32RBP-Red-Rectangular-Reflector-Clearance-Marker-Light/146817686...or LEDs https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/oval-marker-lamps/oval-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-4-led-side-clearance-lights-w-4-high-flux-leds-pigtail-connector/580/

Here is my 3000 watt generator. I was in the right place at the right time and got two for $300. Sold one for $150 to my Wheel Horse buddy. That was with the bracket and correct Wheel Horse belt.

The early tractors are short frame models with 41-1/4" wheelbase. The medium frame models like you have has a 43-1/2" wheelbase. The long frame tractors like the C-Series and 300 and 400-Series have a 45-1/2" wheelbase. Your tractor requires a long frame blade although some models will fit both long and short frame tractors. Dozer DNA of long tractor frame dozer blades 1966-1967 model BD-426 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle - replaced by 1968 model 6-1111 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1968 model 6-4111 - First to fit LONG & SHORT frame tractors and first to mount under the rear axle - replaced by 1969 model [6-4112 & 6-9621] 1970-73 model [6-4113 & 6-9622] 1973-74 model [6-4113 & 6-9623] 1974 model [6-4114 & 6-9624] 1974 model 6-2131 1975 model 6-2132 1976 model 6-2133 1976 model 66-42BC01 1977 model 76-42BC01 1978 model 86-42BC01 1979 model 96-42BC01 1980 model 06-42BC01 1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here they are 42" wide) 1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide) 1990 model 06-48BC02 1991-1993 model 06-48BC03 1993-2001 model 79350 2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364 Garry

I use ABC Plugs.....(anything but champion)

The key to success is a sturdy sub-frame to distribute the load to the axles rather than the frame. Here are a few pictures of the Johnson Workhorse front end loader on my GT-14.

It's cause they have lips and not a .... p_ _ _ _ _ r !!!😳

Because of holiday, i take a whole day for complete Service. i verified every Bolt and screw, exchange broken ones, put in missed, cleanup and greases everything what is moving and mess with the setup for the Brakes. Before, i doubt they was really working, but now i know, they don't. After cleanup the disc (release every grease and grass and dirt around and from the mechanic) i disassemble the whole mechanic itself and make it easy working. Everything was a bit sticky, no wonder the brakes wan't working as expected. Then i put 2 new Brakelinin's in, whoow, the Brake works much better than expected. - nice - even with a hooked Trailer with about 150 pund it brakes downhill much better than empy before. Thinking about, i will change the Brake system from pull to Push. Actually there is just a pulled spring, who pulls the Brake, i would change to a linkage with a thread on the edge. On this edge i will screwed a self tapering mother with a bigger washer, that carries a compressive spring and pushes over the spring the brake rod. So when i pressing the pedal, firstly the spring force touches the brake lever slightly, after full pressing the Pedal, the spring is fully compressed and a mechanic force presses the brake lever. It shall be more safety and more force at the brake, in case of Emergency. After finishing that Issue, i try to reduce the spin in steering, it's about 3cm on the Steering Wheel. I disassemble the whole mechanic to verify, if it is further usable or not. So far, there are several weartraces, but it shall be normal after 27years of use. So i decided to keep things, as they are and file just a bit the peaks off. Maybe i can do a bit more, but i can anytime repeat this issue if neccessary. So that, the steering works much better. So i can half, the play in steering. maybe i can complete eliminate the spin, but so far i am fine with it. Then i grease everything and reassemble the whole mechanics and fiddeling arround to found lastly a useful Setup, that is good enough, without too much spin in the Steering wheel. Also the bolt of the Seesaw in the front Axle have some weartraces, but this will be solved later. sorry, today no Pic's made. Stefan

I have absolutely no problems to understand you at all, i have also none problem to talk to anybody, just when i must wrote about things, it is a bit stronger for me. I allway's want, that others understood me right, make a short sentence is actually hard for me. While talking, i have absolutely no hesitation, to tell it right or wrong, because i can quick correct it if i get a wrong word, but i a Forum some things would be quick misanderstood in the Past. Nowhere in the World i have troubles about talking, just in 2 other Forum, i was attacked "first to learn better english".. I know, i make some mistakes, but i am not a native tounge. I try allway's to improve my english, but in case of an huge wording "emergency", trust me, it was not bad meant at all. If so, please be so kind and correct me. Again, thanks to welcome me !

Ear buds are a must..... Allman Brothers Band, 1982.... some awesome guitar work from Dickey Betts. My absolute favorite starts at about 28:15 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=F78XV6fjxCE#

@Lengerich8 you have definitely found the best place on the web for anything Wheel Horse related. Nice tractor you have there, good luck with whatever path you decide to go down with it. I'm attaching a picture of my Commando V8, note the vertical shaft Tecumseh engine.

Got it rolling on all 4 today. Figured out my hood ornament base and got it mounted. Now just to get the engine back on over the next couple days. I painted up the steering wheel cap and put that on as well. @ebinmaine how about a brushed stainless look. I wet sanded the base with 5 different types of paper and then clear coated it.