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I saw a post on FB from Glen about 2-3 days ago. He said he was not allowed to drive (auto or Wheel Horse's) and was still on the mend. He had made a lot of items last fall getting ready for "The Big Show" in June, but his stroke fouled that plan. He is selling on Ebay. I know everyone on here is hoping Glen gets well enough to get out and about and make it to shows again so we can visit with him and buy his fine WH goodies

Well I went out to the Greencastle Airport today and spent the $75 to take a fifteen minute ride and it was worth every penny. Amazing plane for the 1920's! The ten passengers and two up front (pilot and co-pilot) flew around Greencastle . I was on the sixth flight of the day around 2 PM. There were 199 of these Ford TriMotors , (also known as the Tin Goose) made and only 18 survive with just 8 having FAA air worthiness certificates ! So not many chances left to fly in one of these so I said lets go! I sat behind the pilot up front . The take off was a bit loud but I have to say the landing was the smoothest I ever had in an airplane of any size. If one of these comes to your town I highly recommend taking a flight in this airplane! A thrill a minute! Here is more information about the Ford Tri-Motor passenger airplane. Photos to follow.

Brought home a new toy today , runs great and mows nice , and the best part was the price was right

I had some rake tines laying around, and a few hours to burn. Only had an angle grinder, hand held drill, basic tools, and a welder available, so yeah, there are things that could have been a lot better executed, and planned too. This was more function over form Result was a 3 pt. rake, 6 foot wide. It ain't picture perfect, but for a quick fix to a problem a Saturday afternoon, it turned out usable, even though there was a few Oooh jeah's, sh....t's, and uuupsies under way. I got it setup so that I can push it about an inch into the ground if needed, or else it will just run freely with hydraulic valve in float position. It does a nice job on the granit chip driveway. I can force it to take a deeper scoop to move a bit of chip to where it's more needed, so it does what it was intended for, even though it won't win any fabrication Oscars. Paint is an industrial grade RAL code 3003. Closest match I have come by over here.

I hated changing tires when I worked in auto shops. I take all of mine down the street and have them do it. Besides they always have homemade chocolate chip cookies on the counter!

Lets just say we had a nice little shopping spree at HF and these....ain't no beauty queens.....yet....

Here's Glen's quote from the Wheel Horse Junkies FB page about 4 days ago: "Since my stroke last March, I’m not 100%, memory & coordination are still off ( stroke was due to stress, not heart - right side of head = left limbs paralyzed ). cannot drive anything yet, no WH’s, no car, can’t walk yet nor make parts. Last Winter I was making a good supply of parts for the WH show last June so I have. Good supply of most parts today. Expect to be at the big WH Show in June, 2019, and at Mentone, IN in late Spring. Got a really nice new item this year—a Wheel Horse tractor cover (it’s on eBay right now)$60 via mail or only $50 at the shows, be sure to touch it when your at a show, superior quality."

Update.....I bailed and took them to my local tire guy. He has a machine and they'll be done in 2 hours.......$20. Now I have 2 hours to clean my frickin shop up. No more excuses! Thx for the input!

Happy Birthday @Stormin, we are all glad you were born!

Check that the drive belt is engaged and not slipping.

I would disown that cousin....

I have changer enough tires on mine to pay for it and then some. But, if you are just doing one pair you should just go to your tire shop.

Ok yes I'm lazy for not dismantling the relevant parts and properly repairing the shaft, but realised that the very small bearing surface on the R/H end of the shaft where it passes through the Frame needs enlarging. Also, I had problems trying to remove the Spirol Pin on the left Brake rod Arm(6-10) - So I chose the easy way out, plus increased the shaft bearing surface at the wear point by about 600% and in 3 planes (fwds,up and down). Found the perfect bearing which is about 1.1/2" long, 3 sides square and 1 side open. Hard cast brass with exactly 1/2" internal dims, so the shaft fits perfectly inside it. Cut a 1/4" 90 deg angled plate down, spotted through the spare hole in the frame nearest the Transmission and tapped the hole 5/16" x 18 (SAE/UNC) in the plate. Bonded the bearing to the plate by tapping,screwing and soldering. Fixed in place after packing with grease- Bolt position through the Frame, seen through the Gear slelector gate- Nice and smooth now, only noise is the usual 'Belt Slap' on the inside of the cover.

Cindy won't let us eat those in the Ram, says we're too messy er something.😁😁

Saaaaaaweeet Jim! Haven’t you ever heard it said, “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.”? What I see on your trailer is a ton of potential and a new plow mule in the works given the success with “Clyde”. Well done my friend

😂😂😂. Good stuff — Jim oh yes I would share some steak with you!! As for the barley pop what can I say I was out of ice and as for the generator I don’t own a 40kw diesel generator! I might be able to make it to plow day we will see it depends if I get time to get my engine swap done in my 89 square body suburban I’m putting in a 2003 6.0 Ls engine- I would like to have it done and stretch her legs over to cheeseland with some plow tractors behind it and as for the wife I’m not sure it she will read this so I will have to disagree! She says Hi by the way. Jim if you scratch your screen you might be able to smell these!!

Listening to some Josh Thompson, cooking with the fog rollin’... Not a bad way to start the weekend! Oh yeah and coffee too! ( @ebinmaine )

I only loaded it because I didn't think I would be able to out run you or the PO with it. Other wise I may have tried to make an escape with it.

The one without a seat doesn't run and might be just a parts donor. Can't count those only ones that run and drive. Sides I am over my count limit even with taking my shoes off. ....knew I shouldn't have cut off those extra toes! 😂 Rained out all day here so didn't get pics. 😐 Did run one around abit today to get it in a shed. I always thought Richard was a nut for liking 953's but now that I had seat time I get it. Steering was kind of sloppy and belt brake was a little bit to be desired but things that can be sorted out. Dan loaded it on the trailer so I didn't get any seat time when we picked it up! Thats ok I'll make up for it!

I too have that set-up and it paid for itself the 1st time I used it. My neighbor and I used his lift to remove my rear wheel on a 1996 Honda Gold Wing. Once the wheel was off I crossed the street to my garage, deflated the tire, removed it, mounted the new tire, added balance beads, aired the tire up and it took me a total of 25 minutes! Pretty darn good I thought! If you leave the tire in the sun for a few hours, this will greatly reduce the pain & suffering, as will as the soap (for potty mouth)!

First of all I think he is referring to his choke. If "Thingy" fails to come up in your search you can try "Doohickey"!

- Good eye! So if we search for "Thingy" in the WH Manual Section - this thingy should pop right up???!!!

Two words - Discount Tire... I know...I know - Do it myself...But I have found a few things are not worth (to me) going it alone...Changing tires on these little guys is one of them (for me). Way cheaper than my time, aggravation and my wife washing my mouth out with soap...I can not afford the soap!

Exactly. If it runs well when the choke is adjusted then you are effectively matching the air intake volume with the amount of fuel volume. Too much air is being pulled in when the choke is completely open. Carb adjustment? Air leak around throttle shaft or mounting gasket? With engine running spray some carb cleaner directly to the area at the throttle shaft, then directly on the gasket. If rpm changes at all then it is sucking it in and you have identified where the air is leaking in. Float setting? Dirty carb? clogged or weak fuel delivery from tank to carb. (fuel pump, clogged cap vent, clogged filter, clogged fuel line, ect. ????)

NO cheese balls

Looks good as does the monster 60" deck...

It's alive! Prev. owner said it's been around 15 years since the last time this was operable, and that his grandparents called it The Little Bastard. At first I had enough belt chatter that it was spinning the trans pulley w/ clutch in so I had to make a temp idler out of a bolt and plastic pipe. I'll put a proper idler on it asap and put a bit heavier return spring for clutch. I absolutely love this trans and how smooth it shifts. 3rd gear is pretty tall so it scoots right along. Will have to re-route / change up exhaust... maybe be able to re-use prev. engine exhaust to route it up front as it's pretty hot on my right leg. Neighbors and friends were out on their deck and the look and smiles on their faces when I pulled up in this was priceless.

Whaaat... nobody wants to ask about our shopping spree @ Fleet Farm?!?! Dan wanted a set of six jug tractor plug wires and all I needed was a card of tire valve stems.... both shelves empty... go figure....ended up with a jug of peanuts and a Mt Dew

Finally got to start my weekend at 1PM today. What a better way to start the weekend than Horse wrangling with a friend. Jim & I spent the afternoon picking up a couple additions to his collection.

I had to write this up because I couldn't believe it my self. I've been tinkering around with my new to me C-145 hydro. Nothing too intense, new ignition switch, starter solenoid, plug the DC wire back into the regulator, oil change, & new muffler. Any way while driving it around the engine would go under a heavy load to the point of snubbing out. Stranger than that, turn the key & it would start right back up again. I could drive it a short ways & then the issue would repeat. If I ran at 1/2 throttle or less it would not happen. I assumed that I was having hydro problems. Then I was able to make the symptom repeat it's self with the drive belt disengaged. OK what could be left?!?! If a bearing in the engine was locking up, why would it start right back up again? While doing more investigating I noticed that it had stopped charging. Tested the stator & was getting 30vac at 3/4 throttle & above. OK the regulator took a dump no big deal, right? Plug the reg back in & go for another cruise. Symptom occurs again. Then it hit me, the only thing left that could possibly put load on the engine was the stator. I unplugged the regulator & took yet another cruise, this time how ever it ran flawlessly. I drove around for about 20min + with absolutely no issues. I have never seen this before but apparently the voltage regulator / rectifier must be shorting out, connecting the two lines from the stator together creating enough load to snub the engine out. I would never had thought that the charging stator could have pulled enough KW to stop the engine. This was sooo odd that I wanted to share this info with people. Hopefully this is some thing you can add in with your trouble shooting skills.

The big thing with manual tire changing it to get the bead down into the center of the rim. I have no problems just using tire spuds but I have a shop that did two 23 - 10.50 tires for a paltry 10.34 including some for the governor. You can bet tbey are gonna do this pair of 6 ply skid steer tires I got. Best part was not a scratch or mark on fresh paint rims. In HF with @Achto this weekend and he pointed out their changer for 40 bucks... Shoulda bought one right then.

I have been monkeying with my rj58 today.....looks like im going to have to replace the brass bushing in the left rear axle, cause the new oil seal did not fix the leak. Dang it!!! So then i putz around the yard on it, brought it back in......then i notice it was grinding gears when i would shift from neutral to any gear, didnt do that before. FOUR FOX SAKE!! now what. So i messed around with the clutch adjustment nuts in the back..still grinding. Was starting to get frustrated. Came inside and google searched my problem, naturally it brought me to this site. Did some reading. Well my belt guard is homemade. Read that the belt guard helps to slow/stop the belt from spinning when is clutch engaged. To keep from grinding gears. Went back out, installed guard, and could see how that would help rub on the belt when clutched. Bada boom, bada bing...no more grindind!!! And actually in the process of adjust my clutch, i can now take off at higher rpm, and not pop a wheelie!! Lol...so thats what i did to my wheel horse today.....thanks wheel horse forum..., mike

Nice looking "D" worker there. Tell us a little about your self and your "D" by doing an introduction post. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/47-introductions/

HAHAHAHA , ya you wouldn't happen to have that guy that makes the stacks phone # , HAHAHAHAHA

Glen is a great guy and I pray he will recover fully.

No lift but still some movement, the piston block in the pump is trying which I would assume means it is being turned by the drive belt.. If the implement relief valve had failed in the open position maybe it is bleeding off so much charge pump pressure that the piston to piston portion is staved for fluid???? (would also explain why no hydro lift....

Broken frame where the trans mounts causing enough movement to loosen the belt?

Welcome to Red Square. The Charge Pump powers the hydro lift...it also feeds the actual hydro pump that runs the hydro motor and makes tractor move. If it is not providing adequate pressure the hydro lift will work weakly and the tractor will lack speed power. Strange that you have no lift but still have some movement. There are some relief valves that have springs wonder if the shock of the landing jammed or broke one (Implement relief or Charge pump relief) You can download the service manual for a Sundstrand hydro here. it has a diagnostic section but nothing seems to match your symptoms. If you have a pressure gauge you should check the Charge pump pressure. Sort of stumped here at the moment.

I also falls into the category of Thingamajigger!!😳

A few years ago I was going through the same ordeal where it took 10 screwdrivers or whatever i could wedge in there , so much soap that everything slipped out of my hand, two pairs of hands, one set of knees and me turning into a raving lunatic. Then I decided to buy one of those small tire changing kits at HF. Fastened it to a small portable work table that gets fastened to the floor when using it and that changed everything. In less than twenty minutes I can remove old tire and install new one. If you own more than six of these old tractors or keep getting them a well worth investment.

What are you using for tire tools? If you are just trying to do it on the floor with a couple of cheap tire tools take it some where. I have a HF manual a full size tire machine a selection of kentool tire irons and it can still take some effort

Well, I kept forgetting my multimeter, so I figured I'd give it a try. Mowed the yard and it did great, but all the others did for one time too, then just quit less than one lap around the yard the next time. So, I don't know if I fixed my problem yet, just keep your fingers crossed the next time I get on it!

Sorry Tom, I'm not allowed to speak at this time.

NO pics didn't happen. What's he up to now @WHX20 21,25

Decided it was time to insulate the floor of the addition before winter gets here. Used rock wool insulation, so much nicer to work with than fiberglass. Holds its shape and thickness much better.

Mike and I posted at the same time, now i'm thinking like @squonk!

Here's a pic from Dougie's "Double Ought Spy" yearbook.

Last week I swapped out the old tired 5091 Trans in the 8 spd C-120 and needs a rebuild. Replaced it with a spare 103916 I obtained 6 years ago- . Gave it 3 runs and all smooth and positive. Yesterday, I noticed a tiny weep in the brake shaft oil seal, so I pulled and replaced all the seals All done and finished today ready for more test runs tomorrow . Cleaned up, painted and fitted the original gear cover plate. Also swapped rear wheels over to the Maxxis Kevlar Turfs on this, as it is going to a new home for mowing and towing duties.