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I should make a post that says What have I done for your horse today. Well just a few more seat covers for sale. I'll take to the Big Show if I done sell them . The top 2 are in the making. Can anyone guess what the last one says . I just tried some W H to see how they would come out.not bad if I do say so.

I hate to say it Joshua, but that's nowhere near worth $180. It's been cannibalized and by the time you get it back in decent usable condition you'll have more into it than if you would have found a better machine.

"It's a trap!" To much $ for what it is. Run. Run fast, away from it.

I just take three of my tractors to shows. '79 C-81 fitted with '62 finger bar. '78 C-121 modified for ploughing and '78 Sears/Roper GT16. With just those three I still have room on the trailer plough and some other stuff.

So I have a Craftsman GT3000 and have owned it since new in 2001. It’s been (and still is) an awesome machine. But I know at some point small things will quit so I stumbled across an identical tractor to mine minus the motor. Bought it cheap as a spare parts machine. But rather than store an entire tractor I dismantled it and will box up everything I want and will scrap the rest. Took me about 2-1/2 hours to get it all done. Had a blast doing it!!

Our Yorkie just read that and would like to have a word with you.

With that little engine your dog better be a Yorkshire terrier

The lighting circuit is already fuse protected and ate amperage for a low pressure electric fuel pump is next to nothing. Just connect the wire for the pump to the incoming (hot with the key on) side of your light switch. Be sure to mount the fuel pump low on the frame because they are great pushers but not too good at drawing a suction.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it

This year at Jackson County Antique Tractor and Machinery Show and Swap Meet held in Brownstown, Indiana. I took my 1964 Wheel Horse 854 and 1958 Wheel Horse RJ with backrest on it! .

I became a Wheel Horse (Toro) owner today! I was able to get the 522xi (315hrs) for $800. As a long time lurker, you guys have no idea how much you helped with my decision. You guys provided me with so much knowledge and respect for these machines. Now I just hope I can put it to good use. The tractor is dirty but seems to be in good shape overall. Starts immediately, idles well and runs great at WOT. Drives and cuts good. My first time experiencing the Smart Turn. I ended up cutting the guys back yard and I kinda liked that feature. Kinda reminded me of my ex. "Slow down. You're going too fast for that turn!!" Steering is responsive, no toe in, no leaks. Test the hydro on a hill several times after warming it up and didn't slow down or hesitate in forward or reverse. Cosmetic stuff only (I hope). Faded paint and overall, dirty. Thanks again and I look forward to pestering you guys with all kinds of previously answered questions. -- Casper

I have had that happen. Make sure the 3 pulleys are aligned and clean them with steel wool and wipe with mineral spirits. Also, make sure your spindles are well greased. I have had trouble finding the 28" belt. I have used a 29" and it did not slip when new, but it is starting to slip now. I found a 28" belt at O'Riley's the other day...that is the belt you really want to use. I would not go to a 27". I take the grease covers off once a year to make sure I get the grease gun on the zerk. also check out your blades to see if you picked up some plastic bag or fishing line...that can really bind on a spindle.

RUN FORREST....RUN!!!

No, the way to stop this is to try and help our members. This site is for sharing information, experiences, knowledge, and lending a helpful hand. The OP just sent me a pm asking for help on using the site and I sent a reply back to him with an example of what a Title is and what a Tag is. Maybe he now understands what we're talking about. Also, please no one send any nasty pms to other members. We're setting a bad example if we do that. PMs should be as helpful and tactful as possible and mixed in with some respect and politeness. If you think you can't, then it's best not to send a pm.

Great machine in very nice condition. Fire it up, drive it around and ask if they can do better. Try not to smile too much until after you've paid for it.

Tonight I got the correct belt for it, installed it and put on the fan @wallfish. Pulled the rear wheels to paint the hubs and axles/axle spacers. Filled her with oil, retighten all the lines after a small spill and worked all the air out of it. She moves forward, backwards and when the brake is pressed, she stops and goes back to neutral. Also installed the 418-A neutral detent and adjusted her to where she doesn’t creep. Finished up my hood latch button. Still need to weld up the slot in the front if the hood. Getting down to the nitty gritty.

I will be bring several items to sell at this years Big Show, 1) I will have my replacement hood gaskets ( Original Part # 2767 ) for the 1965 thru 1968 Lawn Rangers, 603/604/654 and 704 that had the Tecumseh motyor gas tank filler neck thru the hood. This gasket goes around the neck on the hood. $5 at the show. 2. I will be sellingSlide Blocks ( Original Part # 6720 )for the older Wheel Horse mower decks.. $15 a pair NLA from Toro Selling a set of two replacement nylon Slide Blocks for (Part # 6720) older Wheel Horse Mower Decks. These were used on the 36 inch decks (and maybe 42) to hold the idler slide arm down . These new slide blocks are made out of Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMW) an industrial grade material for long lasting service. The older mower slide blocks do wear and a replacement is no longer available from TORO/Wheel Horse for this part. The thinner under slide is usually still good to reuse from your original mower deck parts so save for placing under the slide bar. Most of these Wheel Horse mower decks that used this part wer built in the 1970 to 1980 time period. The photos show originals and the replacements . Originals were rounded on the ends but the replacement fine. I recommend putting new bolts on when changing these. 3. I also will have two early Wheel Horse snowplow/dozer blades with frame side plates. An original RJ snowplow unpainted with all the parts for $200. A combination Suburban Plow with RJ frame, repainted and new decals, frame plates and lift frame for $150. The Original RJ SNOWPLOW HAS BEEN SOLD !

My internet has been out for a few days, so I'm slow getting back to this. Lesson #1. @squonk was correct in that my piston was rotating backwards when I applied air to the cylinder for the test. I rechecked it (engine cold) making sure the piston stayed TDC and previous exhaust valve leakage went away. Intake and Exhaust valve now have no "hearable" leakage cold. But cylinder leakage continued. Lesson #2. After reading many pieces of information on "Cylinder Leakage Testing" several have said this test needs to be done with the engine hot, because you will get an inaccurate indication of piston blow-by with the engine cold. Makes sense, since the piston expands during operation. My #3 son is getting married this weekend so my hoped for tractor reassembly time over this past 3 day weekend didn't materialize. But lots of good family preparation and togetherness! I may not have daughters, but the remains of my checkbook will still dance at his wedding

Looks like a parts tractor to me and most of what's desirable in parts is already gone.

Don't think you have a deck problem there ED, it just got flooded!

He messaged me back about rearranging the implement relief valve and said yes he did. But I think I'm just going to call the deal off.

I've done a few. I repaired any major dings with JB Weld, painted the spokes with Krylon for plastic and coated the rim with Dupli-Color truck bed liner. It looks and feels great and is as durable as most anything.

If your parts store doesn't have the three terminal you can use a Ford four terminal. Simply ignore the 'I' terminal.

42 inch decks (like your Rear discharge) did not have reinforcements as the 48" did. They are more prone to deck shell issues around the center pulley. Having the drive belt really tight exacerbates the problem. Loosen up your mule drive. It doesn't have to be super tight, just enough so it doesn't slip in normal grass conditions.

Adding a relay is unnecessary and just one more part and a couple of connections to fail at some point later in life.

Need to get started on the grass cutting a bit earlier in the season in the future!

What part is failing? Spindles, deck shell, wheels, brackets, blades?????? The deck shells must be cleaned of all dead grass and painted/protected once in a while to make it last as long as the tractors. Spindles need greased.

As long as I can remember I've absolutely loved ripping stuff apart to see what's going on in it. Most times I didn't even get them back together. I've always been fascinated with machinery ... Anything from a toaster to an excavator. Nice workshop you've got to use there sir!

@The Tool Crib, I guess you must be some special character when you won't follow forum members, and a Mod's advice about refraining from using your user name in the title of every thread you compose. It's really not THAT DIFFICULT, and I'm certain you are intelligent and competent enough to grasp the subject matter being discussed. Better get with the program, otherwise most of us will choose to ignore you. Completely. Is that what you want???? I am also a Hoosier, and I would quite naturally want to try to assist you and help you solve problems if I can, but you alone compound the problem of communication by continually doing what you have been advised not to do. You frankly defeat your real purpose of being here in my opinion. If you don't "get it" and adapt, you are likely in for not much response either from Hoosiers, or anyone else for that matter. Your move, or your loss. The choice is yours. For some unknown reason, this phenomena seems to be occurring more and more frequently with new members. They seem to be in such a rush to ask a question, they don't stop to think about the implications of what they are doing. I've given countless newbies insight into why they SHOULD NOT put their user names in the thread subject line. For some reason it never occurs to them 10, 20, 30, 40, or 50 threads with the same title by the same poster might be confusing as h-e-double hockey sticks to everyone else here. Searching through multiple posts with the same subject line is maddening! Please ALWAYS begin a thread with a title relevant to the subject being discussed or question being asked. Please. Somewhere down the line, hopefully you'll have a "eureka moment" and understand why this is important. Regards, Steve

Leave it at 10/30. If you want to change it use Mobil 1

Worked the 400 a little bit, around here today. For toting, even the Mrs Rules said... "Man, that thing sure comes in handy."

Notice how Jim is keeping his eyes peeled on that cart release lever!

Yes Michigan has a lot of wheel horse's for sale. I also live in Michigan and I see a lot of reasonable priced horse's on craigslist. Keep looking you'll find one cheap. I'm with the others let it go.

Another vote for 10/30 here as pretty sure that what the book says. Make sure the cooling fins are clean & fan is on it.

Smart move. That was a money pit and you are in an area that probably has lots of to pick from. The cost of replacing missing parts can quickly eclipse the initial purchase price.

Skipper I did indeed I knew I wouldn't be able to tackle it and than to have confirmed through all of you that it was a bigger bite than I wanted to take, I didn't feel like choking today lol.

There is more involved in removing the hydro lift than just running the hose back to the return, If you buy ask if he rearranged the implement relief valve in the hydro unit.

I did do this. I jacked it up to almost a 45 degree angle and then cracked it open and let it sit for a couple hours.

That is a very fair price, if it is what they advertised. Make sure the hour meter does tick over when running. If you purchase it, do a fluid change plus filters on the engine and transmission. Engine oil can be your choice, but I always used Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 from the five quart jug on mine. Also because of the hydraulic steering, there is a filter screen behind the left cooling air screen that should be cleaned.

You want to use a relay to power the pump directly from the battery (fused) I used the light switch wiring to activate the relay, it's only "on" when the key is in either start or run

Grass..... Jungle.

@BOB ELLISON some great work there!!!!

I used a Mr Gasket Part No. 42S Specs: 2-3.5 PSI, 28 GPH. The current draw is one amp.

If you can get a good even chrome.... That'd be cool.

I just installed one on a 312-8 and wired into the accessory terminal on the ignition switch.

We finished up assembly on the Patriot Horse this morning ( See the restoration section for more on that. ) ...And put it right to work. We moved some cut/split wood out of the forest. I found even with fluid filled tires I was slightly lacking for traction in the rough forest so I added these "other brand" wheel weights. 50 pounds each. Seemed like it helps. Tractor now weighs well over 900 pounds without my extra ballast. My next/current project is the trailer in the pics. I'm moving the axle back to put more weight on the tractor and also to facilitate easier dumping. I'll throw some pics if that in the implements section in a few days.

Well she runs. Amazing what a set of points and a condenser will do for you. Oh and not having the fuel pump on upside down. Don’t ask, it was a late night when I put it on. Not good with staying up late anymore. Took all the power steering stuff out and went back to factory steering at least till after the show. Might leave it that way and use the PS on something else. All hiem joints except for onerod end. Steers good to me. Also got the headlights installed and they seem to work. Had the lense on for a little while and the fan running and the lense didn’t get hot. We’ll see how long it lasts. Half the fun of building stuff for me. Also have a pic of my helper for the day. She wouldn’t leave me alone so I let her jump in.

Thank you very much, Steve. Seems like a simple enough part. Thanks, roadapples - I'll check out TSC.