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05/10/2018 - 05/10/2018
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/2018 in all areas
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14 pointsGood Morning all, Cant wait till big show... my son and I are in after missing several years (3???). On way home yesterday I get a text about a rusty tractor on side of road from a friend. No details of course, so I hooked up trailer and took dog for a ride. Isnt she beautiful! Briggs power and all! Lots of love needed but it didnt go to scrapper.... Tony
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6 points
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5 pointsLooks red Ritchie..... now what you need to do since it's a roller is tie it to the bumper of the car and have the Missus pull you up and down the road at say ...well legal speed .... takes the nubbies off those fronts real quick so you don't look like a . Throw a piece of card board on her and you can lay down on it and steer bobsled style! Oh...might want to wear some gloves!
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5 points
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5 points
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4 pointsWell I officially have a problem. Picked up another one today, I couldn’t resist the price . I don’t know the model but it was almost free so I just bought it anyway. I will do some research later tonight.
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4 pointsI’ve been looking for a 420-LSE near me for a long time. This one came up for sale about 4 months ago but the seller and I couldn’t agree on a price. Finally yesterday we worked it out and I got it today. It’s not pretty but should be a fun project. It was only about 15 minutes from my house. It doesn’t currently run. Anything other than this model I would never take a chance on something that doesn’t run and the price was right for the condition. Do you think I can save that seat? 😂 The serial number ID tag is missing and the plate on the hood doesn’t have a name engraved in it.
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4 points
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3 points@WHX17 I bought new razors. I’ll shave the nubbies off the tires. Had road rash before so the “pull the sled down the road” thing is out of the question. In the words of Boy George, “ Do you really want to hurt me?” Shoot, all the paint might blow off it on the way up.
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3 points
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3 pointsThose 16 Horse Thumpers use a little fuel. How many times did you have to stop and fill up?
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3 pointsThat is the pin that goes thru the lift arm after you put the deck on... nobody uses them as its near impossible for the arm to come out of the deck unless the tach-a-matic is open and deck is out of frame. Tony
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3 pointsAlong with the #5060 thread, it is a good idea to use this manual...Section V for your transmission. Reading this section and using the videos, you will not have any problems getting into your transmission.
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3 pointsYour '68 does not have a PTO clutch or a front attach-a-matic. Therefore it will require the old style blower that bolts to the frame rails and has the belt disconnect clutch and rod.
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3 pointsOrdered new spark plug, condenser & points yesterday. Should come in before the weekend so I'll know soon enough if it the ignition system. Guess I'll try the rebuild kit for the carb given the comments above. The current carb is the original with the adjustable jets versus the fixed.
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2 points
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2 points@Vinylguy Terry go ahead and use the first picture you did on #153. Not likely I'm gonna' get any purdier...love the apples in the bucket. Thanks again, Jay
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2 pointsyesssssir! That’s what I’m talking about right there. She’s coming together—looking good Richie... i love the wheel and tire combo.
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2 pointsHere I also have two more pics I forgot about. First picture one is almost everyone that plowed, second is me on the case. I know, it’s not a horse, I think you guys can get over it though.
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2 points
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2 pointsHello, police? I want to report a suspicious looking man messing with my tractor. . . . yes, he's still here. . . I see he's driving a Dodge, so he will probably still be here when you arrive
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2 pointsThanks so much. It is a 73 and by eyeballing it looked like it should fit but before I started wrestling with it I was hoping some one could confirm. 70 years old (me) and crawling on the ground for naught not my idea of a good time. It is a manual 8. Made my day thanks again.
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2 pointsThis particular tractor has probably never seen a fluid change. Like many of them, it had basically chocolate mousse or pudding coming out the transmission when I flushed it. I got the hubs off and did some diesel flushing to it. 4 times through actually. I have wheel seals to put into it but the cleaner the fluid comes out the louder the rotational crunching is at the wheel bearing. Seems that there is some granules of crap sitting in the bottom of the case right where the wheel bearing sets because if I pull up on the axle shaft and turn it there is no noise. I'm assuming I'm going to have to remove this transmission and flush it from the inside out or something. As with most of the stuff on these wheel horses, this is going to be a new experience for me. I know that there is a thread or two here that tells you how to do it but I'll be darned if I can find it on the search engine on my little phone. @stevasaurus, if you would be so kind as to point me to that link I would greatly appreciate it. Any and all help or advice from anyone would be also - greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
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2 pointsEric, you are in for a treat. By flushing the trans a few times, you have made the job a lot cleaner and more pleasant. Yes, you are going to have to drop the transmission and open it up. You should have the #5091 8 speed transmission...it is an 8 pinion differential. Look on the main page and find the "Wheel Horse Reference" section...see the "Instructional Threads and Videos" section and click on Transmissions..I have a thread that does the limited slip #5060 transmission. You can use that thread to walk through and rebuild your transmission. The differential is about the only difference...yours is easier. We can go from there...plenty of help for what you have going on.
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2 pointsLots of good stuff here including Steve's. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/144-transmissions/
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2 pointsSenior as stated. Weight wise the GT14 is a contender. The C195 was a good design IMO. the D series is rebranded German companies tractor.
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2 pointsI went to buy a deck for my sk486 and ended up buyin all of it. The guy was selling his deck from a c160. He still had the whole tractor and was scraping it. Also had a mid mount plow and a leaf vac. he tied to sell the parts a few years back. It's ruff been sitting outside for a few years but that's the fun. The controls are frozen, blown engine (broken con rod), seat is cracked, peddles are frozen +++. The tranny seems good though. Sure looks alot like my sk It id's as a 1974. A quick look at the engine I saw the con rod broke in half. Half left on the piston and half left on the crank.no other damage from first look. The wrist pin feels like it has better than 5 thou. play to the con rod. Here she is 😎🐾🐾
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsGuys, thanks for your guidance and advice. Did exactly what was recommended and tractor runs/drives as new. Fortunate that I happened upon this completely original 2000-01 314-8 with only 334.2 hours on meter. What a jewel! I replaced brake assembly, belts, plug, filters (air/fuel), lubed all zerk fittings, changed oil + filter, sharpened blades, replaced some absent seat mounting hardware, low-pressure washed, and went-a-mowing. What a pleasure and to think that this jewel of an American made garden tractor is no longer manufactured! She was always stored inside, under a cover when not in use. Here is a photo of the tractor with 48 in. deck.
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2 points
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2 pointsOnly a bunch of nuts like us would like that! seat looks fairly nice..
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsBack at you Jim! Everything will be as right as I can get it. the hood, fenders and all will not be painted. I will be doing all that sheet metal later. I am trying to get it going and Aldon has some parts for me so it will only get so far. She will still need a seat(Ed Kennel has a pan for me) and various other things. Hope to just get her running and moving under her own power. I don't know when I will be able to get back up there. Just trying to make it Jim. And Kyle will get those tires on the 418 if he wants them.
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2 pointsLOL ...he's eyeballin those on the horse .... bet he thinks they would make good pulling tires!
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2 pointsThis is my early production 1968 Charger 12, some may consider it a 67. I bought her two years ago from the brother of the original owner. She came with her 42" SD deck, snow thrower, dozer blade and a tub dump. With the exception of some brush painting on the hood and running boards it's originality shines through. I added the caps.
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2 points
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1 pointHello All: I am sure this question has been asked before but, what was the largest tractor that WH produced? D200? Just curious.
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1 pointSearch for " 9 Way Sealed Splash Proof Mate N Lok Electrical Wiring Multi Connector " on ebay. That is the one I bought to replace bad connectors. Here it is installed. Cleat
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1 pointYou won't believe this , I installed the plug put the battery in gave it 1 shot of starting fluid and after 3 years of setting IT LIVES!!!!!!! PURRRRRSSSSS LIKE A CAT!!!! THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!!!!
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1 point
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1 pointThanks Robbie, I do plan on selling the plow along with several other things. I need to get time (probably early next week) and I'll try to start listing items for sale in the Big Show Buy Sell Trade thread.
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1 pointBoth hubs have two set screws in already & yes they are shot. Replacing the axle is not an option at this point in time, have too many irons in the fire as it is. I may just try and build it back up and look for a new hub for the time being and run it like I stole it!
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointWhat model? You're hinting that the tractor has the old, rugged Ford solenoid jump the switch). So, you jumped from the (+) of the battery to the center terminal and, nothing? You should at least hear the solid click of the solenoid. If not, and the solenoid is well grounded, problem = solenoid. If it clicks and there is no starter and again all the grounds and connections are clean and cables good, dead starter. Does the voltage on the battery drop when attempting to start? If yes, no more than a couple of volts for a good battery. This is how I would approach it. Like many here, these machines need TLC on their wiring and grounds. Good luck!
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1 pointPretty sure it's a Sears. Might be one of the lower-end ones that were made for them by Murray.
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1 pointStarting to sound like you may have a faulty pump. Not unusual at all. A lot of the aftermarket pumps come out of the same place as OEM ones do now. A lot of people have switched to electric pumps. Myself I still go the mechanical. I can see where the electric pumps would be more trouble free though.