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This is how the 500 Special sat just over a year ago while still in Florida. It still sits just like that but now it's in our Indiana garage. I just didn't have the time to work on it. But today I took advantage of a fairly decent day. The belt guard is done, All the seat components are done. The fender is ready for final sanding and red paint. I'm using the seat mounting setup like the mid 70's B/C-series had with the flip forward mount but this one won't flip because the fender flips back. Now to find a sickle mower for it.

Meanwhile I slipped on my new dump cart wheels just for fun. The dash was extremely rusty, so I pulled it off the tractor and soaked it in vinegar for a few days. I cleaned off the liquid rust with steel wool and rinsed it well. Then I hit it with a sander and got on one coat of primer before it rained on me. It's really pitted, so I'll do some more primer and sanding along with paint before I do the dash decal. One thing I am bummed about is someone did a house-brush paint job. I've tried a few trial and error ways to make it look better, but for the time being I did a quick rub with buffing compound. Nothing to brag about, but it gives a slight shine and darkens the red.

Got the Vredestein V61 tires on the front of the 416. Easier to steer and no more air leaks! Pretty satisfied with the tires so far...

Getting ready to rip up some food plots!!!

I've never tried any freehand paint work (other than model railroading) so I tried painting the raised Kohler lettering. First I used what was supposed to be an antique white, but it ended up looking like bright white. I didn't like the look, so I started over with a light gray - I like it much better. White Light Gray

I got my radio on my custom 702 20180424_161745.3gp

I did a good scuff on the primer with a Scotchbright pad, cleaned, and painted the inside. I may do a coat of bedliner inside to hide some of the rust pitting.

Got my lights wired on my 701. Bracket is some of my handiwork, but the lights and switch are genuine😀. Just noticed the eerie set of ghost eyes in the dark photo. Ghost of horses past?💀

My friend bought me this tractor last September at the Portland, Indiana engine show. I bought it to use as a worker and to not for restoration - I restored my last Wheel Horse and my OCD would not allow me to use it! So I have been mowing grass and plowing snow since ownership and it has been such an amazing reliable, strong little tractor. So now I am doing a few cosmetic upgrades to give this worker a little fresher, patina look. Here's the condition I bought it in. This thing was amazing at pushing 6-8" of snow this winter. Now I'm looking for WH wheel weights for next winter. The tractor still had its original Carlisle/WH tires. So ordered new Carlisle Turf Savers - 16x8-6.50 for the fronts and 23x8.50-12 for the rears. I removed the bearings and had the front wheels sandblasted, then I primed the entire wheel, and painted the inner circumference. The local tire shop mounted the tubes and tires, but I told them not to seat the beads. Then I masked off the whole tire and paint the faces of the wheels before I seat the beads. This way I get I don't scuff up my new paint when mounting tires.

Pretty slick little tool for chamfering. https://uniburr.com//#top

I saw this on CL ad only states " 3 Old Wheel Horse Tractors Look At Pictures "

Another long overdue update, it was always intended that a front three point hitch would be added... So a bracket was made to fit under the engine between the chassis section. and a cylinder that fits like so the cylinder is too long so had to be chopped down to shorten the throw It's tight in there, new 1/4 hoses are on order with 1/2" JIC connectors, might get to try it at the weekend. and yes I lose even more approach angle which bendy does suffer with, but I will be able to hand things off the front

If they have enough you are in like Flinn! I covered a flat trailer with 3/4" pressure treated plywood over twenty years back and it is still good.

I like the idea of going with plate steel but I really don't have any good way to purchase it around here that I'm aware of. I asked a guy I know at the LumberYard I normally deal with and he actually suggested Cedar instead of pressure-treated. They've been selling more and more and more of it. Naturally rot-resistant and the bugs in the Northeast here don't like to eat it. Only thing is it would be nearly 40% higher than the price of pressure-treated. Then I asked him about the composite decking and he piped right up - yeah! He said they actually have a pile that is damaged for about $4 per board. That might actually be the way I end up going...

This transmission is from my C100 that I recently fought and removed the hitch pin from : The trans had seal leaks so I decided to replace seals. I discovered the input shaft bearing was bad which required opening the trans. What I found was not pleasant. The "gear oil" was like mud and had some water. That was after I had flushed the trans with Kerosene. This tractor is one I had purchased quite some time ago and parked in the garage and not used. The bearing "new style" in the left case did not have enough room behind it to be able to pull it. I welded the plate onto it so I could drive from the other side.

Sorry my link didn’t post but here is a picture

Any owner of a 953/1054 has had, or will have, that empty feeling in the pit of their stomach as they look in the rear view mirror and see their seat fly away as they drive off, or discover it missing later. There always seems to be a tendency to be preoccupied and just forget to stow the seat cushion in the cab of the truck. Last evening a simple solution came to me, an uncomplicated passive method of securing the seat. I made up a short piece of spring steel wire which attaches to the bottom of the seat and passes through the gas cap opening of the seat base, the seat cushion is then pushed back securing the seat tightly. I installed one today and it took both hands to get the seat cushion to budge. I won't tempt fate, I will continue to remove the cushion, but if it slips my mind I am confident that it will be there when I arrive at my destination! I'm going to make up a bunch of them and give them out at the Big Show.

Richard you can't do that. If they lose there seats then I'll just have to sell them another one. So if you guys don't want to but another seat from me you better get one of these from @953 nut.

Barn dust for sale $50 a pail — just sprinkle a little all over a tractor and it doubles sometimes triples the value!! It also works well for vintage cars and trucks. The price is a little high but please realize that finding this was a (barn find) in and of itself. Serious inquiries only please!!!

So I decided to NOT restore the 59' RJ. I took it apart completely and cleaned all parts. I also did some sanding. The top of the hood basically had no paint left so I had to feather in some color match using a gun. I then wet sanded and buffed it. Cleared most of the frame and steering parts. I still have to get hood right before I clear it. Coming along nice imo. On the Economy I modified the fenders to fit fairly tight over tires. I still need to mount them but pictures show pretty much where they will land. I love the look on both. Update on the 857. It did not go to a new home like anticipated. I am willing to sell it if anyone is interested. I am willing to sell as is but would like to get it running and then offer it up in the classified section. I did start to wet sand and buff it and it looks pretty darn good.

Napa 1763 has a hex on the end for wrench. It's a tad longer but still fits

Marine plywood would be excellent, only down side is that it is around $90 per sheet in my area & you would need two of them. I would go with the 5 quarter X 6 deck boards again. Maybe clean up your metal support rails & spray them with Flex Seal or a good under coat before laying the boards down on them. I usually treat the deck boards on my trailer with a sealer every other year. They are about 6yrs old & have rarely been under a roof. They seem to be holding up well.

Well I hummed and hawed over this for a week then it hit me...... where can you get a good running horse for the price of cheepo push mower. Up here a push mower will run about 175.00. After kicking myself in the you know what I went and got it. It's solid, clean, great condition, a 12 hp, electric pto and a hydro. Model lists it as a 1989. Here's the new addition to the herd.

If it's a greasable spindle I will use sealed bearings and remove the inside seal on each bearing. If it's not greasable then use sealed bearings. There is too much chance of getting dirt and water in them to use shielded bearings.

Numbers toward the front seems to be the way they go.

@SylvanLakeWH go easy, I was hoping to sweet-talk @953 nut into mailing me one. You know, offer to send him some Texas Pecans or some other nutty delicacy!

More progress on the Work Horse pulling tractor. I got the wheelie bars mocked up and ready to weld and paint tomorrow. Hopefully by the end of the week I can get the body work painted.

Bought this tractor from it’s second owner last August. His dad actual owned a wheel horse deal in western PA. Said that his dad brought this home new from the dealer and had been in family ever since. Engine isn’t original it was replaced in 1968 with another Tecumseh 6hp. Got the tractor, mower deck and dozer blade for $300. Wanted a round nose and just had to have it.

My local Simplicity dealer also sold WH's from the 70's till the end. He didn't sell a lot but did sell them. The other day he asked me if was interested in buying his inventory, he said he was tired of paying taxes on the stuff. I told him I wasn't interested, but might know people who might. He printed out 8 pages of Wheel Horse/ Toro parts. Not all are WH parts, some Toro and Lawnboy stuff. If any one is interested I can (well not me,someone in may family who is tech smarter than me, that's everybody including the cat) can fax or scan them to you. The list has the parts numbers and a short description, lot of small stuff, nuts, bolts, washer, spring, but allot of good stuff. You can PM me. I know this guy, I don't think he plans on giving the stuff away, but I'm sure he's willing to negotiate. Chris

The weather cooperated so I plowed a buddy’s garden and then got the sprayer set up for some weed control.

So I’m fond of the Blackhood tractors and this weekend brought in a couple new ones. The C-105 was a trade with a member here. Looks rough but runs real nice. The C-165 was found by my neighbor and he offered it up to me. It runs good but needs a few things (like they all do!) Pics....

The problem with that is : the gov got into it and the new stuff is junk - water based instead of oil base like the original.. I have used the new stuff and won't buy anymore....if the gov touches it it is a goner...........epa??....

I vote for the 5/4" treated, try to find the driest ones you can, when I redone the deck on our home I bought extras and let them "dry" out over the summer before I got around to installing them over the expanded metal floor (which is not a heavy enough floor) on my TSC special, I left extra spacing between my boards so water/snow will drain faster(a tarp could be put down for mulch hauling) as well as added 8 "D" rings for extra tie down points, Jeff.

I'm liking the looks of the RJ

They don't exactly give that stuff away Sylvan. .. good repurpose

Those are the correct numbers Bo. I have been using a NAPA 1762 and will work fine Cleat...buried behind the cab but you get the idea.

bo the 122-0800 is mainly for the Big Block engine 4.2" long. ( P 224, T-260 N series etc. ) the small block is usually the 122-0645, 3.5" long. thank you. boomer ( the used onan engine parts guy, also NOS and new )

It's not cheap but I like the idea of the composite decking. Stable and no rot.

Some hubs had two set screws. One over the woodruff key the other 90 degrees off of it. is the broken one in line with the keyway on the hub? If the area around the broken bolts looks like it was machined it is factory ...no machining probably a PO's attempt. I leaned the hard way i did it to one of my Chargers. I broke the second set crew off flush tightening down the jam nut. I am leaving it for the next owner to worry about You might take take your dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a slot across the end of the broken set screw deep enough to get a screw driver into it and use an impact driver... If you have a welder, weld a nut on the end of the broken bolt. (welding only inside the nut)

After running a Yard Man tractor for several years using sealed bearings in a similar spindle setup and having the bearings last and last, I have started using them on my horses. Got one thats in its 3rd season and still OK. I always hated having to pump and pump grease into the spindles to get the little bit of grease actually needed. Along this same vein, I have also changed the front wheel spindles to sealed bearings also.

I don't think it matters a great deal Ron both types are made to wear out. . I run sealed just to help keep water out but wash my decks a lot. Sealed ones are also easier to pick the inside seal out for those who like to grease.

Does that mean we would get special 2 for 1 pricing??

I just picked this 1979 F-350 crew cab long bed 2wd that has sat for over 20 years. I originally picked it up for interior parts for my F-100. It has a fair amount of rust. It has a electric over hydraulic dump bed and a 400m and c6 automatic. Too put back on the road or let go? Hmm.

Wouldn't even be a thought for me. .....IF the frame is solid.... They aren't making new ones anymore. Just like Put it on the road. I'm kinda biased though. I've always had a serious thing for any of the older crew cabs. You have a great engine, trans combo. Get rid of the bed and throw a small flat on there. Melt a floor board or two in. Soak the whole rig down with old oil. Got yourself quite a truck there.

So it started my son has an 1969 electro 12 that he calls his tractor. It is as time for my daughter to have this 653. I have never restored anything thought it would be something good to start with. Here are pics of the hood before and after wire wheeling and primer and paint

That looks like a Red Green fix to me...just minus the duct tape!

Nice Super C you've got there.I have 3 or 4 of them.Big tractor compared to the rest of the Horses.Unless you count the D-250,that is.Have fun with your new toy.

I haven't much spare time, but here is where I am currently. I have the tub back from the weld shop with the new rear lip patched it. I also picked up new wheels/tires and a lever knob.

The hydro probably is an Eaton, just one of the all-in-one pump+transaxle units with the fan on top of the input pulley -- typical lawn tractor configuration. Being that it's a Wheel Horse, though, the sheet metal tends to be a little thicker, the hydro transaxle is probably spec'd a little better, and the operator controls are all a bit nicer and derived from its bigger cousins. Take care of it and it'll outlast any modern lawn tractors from the big box stores... and probably from the big name brands too.