Leaderboard

A couple of years ago I restored a much abused 414/8 that had a similar problem (among many). I used a mounted sleeve bearing from McMaster Carr that I modified to accept an angled zerk and now it is part of my routine servicing. The inst. panel on the 400 series tractor is different then yours but yours looks easier to make this modification. I then fastened the steering shaft lock under the bearing. The result is a smooth shaft with no play in that location. See the attached picture. Eric

My 312H pulled out a Deere. Wait for it!

The recent thread about towing a 4000lb manlift behind a horse got me to thinking. Many of us have dragged cars, boats or trailers but what about unique things. Here is my L107 working hard.

Very sorry to hear this. Father in Heaven, you are the giver of life and the great physician. You know our needs and wants. Please heal Glen Pettit. We know that his brain has been damaged by stroke, we know that without your hand on him that he will never be the same. At the same time we also know that you can make him whole again, you can repair damaged brain tissue, you can enable him to continue to serve you on this Earth. Lord, hear my petition. Be with his wife and all family as they experience this storm in their lives. I don’t always understand your plan for us, but I do trust that you work all things for the good. I only ask that it be your will to bring Glen back to us. I ask these things in the name of your Son and my Savior, Jesus Christ. All glory and honor belongs to you. Amen.

Wish I had a picture, but I don't. When I built my shop in Florida I had an old shed that was eight feet wide and sixteen feet long that a neighbor wanted and I needed out of the way. It was on a concrete slab and we backed my 5' X 8' trailer and 1055 inside, jacked the building up and ran planks across the trailer to support the building. The doors had been removed so down the road I went with the trailer and 1055 inside the building. From the side it looked like the building was being driven down the road. Only had to go a mile or so and it was early Saturday morning so we didn't create much of a traffic problem.

Don't have a picture, but my 314-8 pulled my neighbors Simplicity out of a muddy area in his yard where he got stuck...he wasn't pleased that he couldn't get out by himself and my WH made it look so easy..

Pulled a ransomes triple up the garden then up the ramps . It’s first little job in my ownership

I pulled an old refrigerator through the lawn to take it out to the scrap pile. The c-81 had no trouble the turf tires didn’t spin at all. Don’t have any pics sorry.

here's one terry

Each one of these is worth every "tow"!!! All the other loads are just stuff...

And ... Puts an 8 speed, 16hp Kohler, plates the hood in real gold and...

Only if he replaces the missing deck roller.

Sent you one Terry.

Adding a better bushing to strengthen the Steering was quite straight forward when I refurbished my 74 C-120 several years ago. I used the same Flanged Bushing that is used on the lower forward Steering Shaft- There was enough space below for 3/8" UNC (SAE) nuts and lock washers. Solid as a rock.

They are a one piece unit and use Dextron ATF unless it has been changed out. Check the dip stick and look at the color. If it is pink or red it is ATF, if amber it is 10 W 30. Sundstrand Transmission Wheel-a-Matic 1969 (1).pdf

A rare day of nice weather in the UK saw a few escape to the field...

Hi everyone I just installed my loader on my 520 H and it seems to work very well. I have a few questions even though I have a manual that I downloaded, 1. What fluid do you use? Manual says ATF or good quality hydraulic fluid. I live in Wisconsin so some cold weather use can be expected. 2. How do you change it. I does not say in the manual only talks about adding in the fluid for the first time. 3. How often should you change the fluid. So far I can’t see any leaks. I was told the loader was only used for about two or three hours I believe it to be true since the bucket looks brand new and still has the original paint on it. Loader is most likely purchased in 1997 or 1998. Thank you in advance Rod

Wheres the cab, cab lights, snowthrower, rear weights, gold plated snow chains. Glenn

I used to have a 8 by 16 diamond plate dual axle car trailer that I pulled around the yard with my 876 about 12 years ago or so no pics but I do have some of the 876 pulling my 7 by 12 trailer loaded with topsoil

Well technically, she hasn't changed much as can be seen in that picture other than the tires. You really can't see any changes. When and if I get her done, I'll take another with fresh paint and all. My hair may be a little more grey or less of it.

With new tires all around and a mower and snow blade this is not too bad. This is the first year I have plowed snow with a hydro with a lift and I must say it was a pleasure.

My is that a C160 hydro/auto can plow, till and all just fine. Just a bit altered technique you have to use. Most important to me is, that when you have the hydraulic lift of attachments, you newer want to be without it. I for one will newer revert to manual shift again. Sorry to hear about your loss in the fire. I know how I would have felt

yeah I have a 18hp opposed I wanted to put in, but the air cleaner/exhaust would not clear the hood...... A v-twin motor might work, I just have the OHV sitting around. ps I hate Tecumseh engines.

Not knowing what you have to work with, but I have a small chain hoist mounted to the rafters of my building. I take the mule drive belt loose then hook into the mule drive and raise the front of the machine high enough to roll the deck out the front. I then lower the tractor, push it back and hook the hoist to the front of the deck and use it stand the deck on end for cleaning. Sure made this job a lot easer.

meadowfield I see your tractors are no trailer queens. You use them for what they where made for. WORK. Enjoy.

Your GT-14 left the factory with Dextron ATF in the transaxle, but many were changed over to 10 W 30 later on. Either one is fine but they don't mix well so be sure you replace it with the same fluid as is presently in there. ATF is pink and 10 W 30 is amber. As can be seen in Garry's drawing there is a hump in the floor of the transaxle housing so it is best to jack up the front of the tractor to ensure complete draining. You should also replace the filter, it is a NAPA 1410 hydraulic oil filter, regular auto oil filters will not work.

The 1/4" NPT drain plug is item # 49 located in the left rear corner on the bottom of the case. The plug is flat with a hex hole for an Allen wrench. The hole may be full of dirt making it hard to find. Clean the hole out well and tap the Allen wrench in to make sure it bottoms in the hole so you don't strip the hex. Being a tapered pipe thread they require a thread sealer and don't need to be singing tight. Garry

Since a lot of guys are going in this thread we could still use some hauling help here. PM @PeacemakerJack if you can help out in anyway. Thanks

This will take a long time to do but what the heck. I am going to design a set of collector cards with a card for every model made from 1955 through 1997 The problem is I need to find good quality images of each. I realize that this may be impossible but once completed I will be glad I did it. The 1974 thru 76 Alphabets were the same as far as I know so will only make one card for each and label them 74 through 76 saving several cards there. Probably wont do the electric"s and reo's but could always add them later. Please feel free to give your feedback on the design and info that would be useful on the cards. If I use a picture of a members tractor I I will ad a credit to the image if they desire. Maybe I will produce them like the old baseball packs with five random cards per pack. No bubble gum though. Let me know what you think good or bad. This is a very early image to get started. Need to write some history on the lower area for this one.

Sorry guys - No cup holder or heated seat so I'm out...

I use mine to pull my boat out from under the carport when I go fishing and the use It to put it back under when I get back home.

Had a problem with my fuel flow on the 12hp Kohler. Checked my fuel filter and put a new one on. Still could not get fuel to the carb. Figured the fuel pump quite. Ordered a electric one. I got to thinking maybe that was not the problem because I would get a little fuel out of the line but not enough to fill the carb. Tried using starting fuel to see if it would run and it did. Took the fuel tank out and took the fuel shut off out and pulled the screen off of it. Sure enough the shut off valve was complete plugged. Cleaned the fuel tank and put a new fuel shut off valve in it and put everything back together. Primed the carb and it fired right up. Next time this will be the first thing I check. Learned a lesson on this one. Proud I had a inline filter before the fuel pump I think it saved it and the carb.

Upon reading this post at the beginning I thought this would be a great opportunity to post some pictures of my restored tractors. As I read all of the posts I got to post number nine and BOOM! The first picture is of my C-161 8 speed ! Thank you Stevebo for posting that!! A gentleman gave it to me and it was in pieces and boxes. He got it from a local school when they retired it. He was going to restore it,took it apart then realized he was never going to put it back together. It was actually painted different colors after they used it in a school play!! After I restored my C-121 automatic I decided it was time for the C-161. Lucky for me both of these tractors and signed by the man himself, Cecil Pond.

Plus those rims look mint.

Thanks all! Will fill tank tomorrow and see what happens. I have always repaired my own equipment and this has had me really down! Glad to have joined this forum!

I added a lift cable to my 1974 C160 and it was very simple. I got the cable Wheelhorseman, he's one of the vendors here

A ball bearing up there will reduce steering effort as well. I have upgraded all of my 520's that way with flanged wheel bearings (same as in the front wheels of the majority of Wheel Horse tractors with 3/4" spindles) and steering effort is reduced along with all play gone from the steering shaft. Hole is drilled to the proper OD of the bearing and it is pressed into place. This is for an early 520 that has the bearing in the battery support area. And this is for a later 520 that has the bearing in the dash. This may not work on yours but it is an idea. Cleat

You can buy a kit from Jack's Small engine, but if it was mine I would change it over to an electric fuel pump. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/tecumseh/33010

I took the engine bolts out and slid the engine back on mine

Do you know what the model number of the transmission is? If not post the model number of the Raider. ID plate may be up high below the dash panel. Here is the service manual. Click on the picture If the file is too large for you try this one Garry

That is very helpful thanks a lot

Thanks for the detailed answers. I’m looking forward to having fun with this Machine

Some of you may remember this little tractor, I traded it to my old neighbor last year after the ice storm for a couple chainsaws. Anyway he is selling his house and didn't have a need for it anymore, so he called me up the other night wanting to know if I'd be interested in buying the tractor back from him. Went and picked it up last night, glad to have her back home. Going to mount my 25 gallon sprayer on the back and put her to work. On a side note I'm figuring out I should've bought a bigger shop, this one is filling up fast

Got the B80 out of the winter hibernation position in the workshop. Started right up. It was not willing to idle down so I commenced to poking around and discovered the governor to be somewhat crapped up. Removed the arm. Clean. Scrape. Degrease. Install. It works! Sweeet.

@stevasaurusYou better hope she does not read RS threads , you will be in deep %^&*

May our Goob Lord watch over Glenn and his family now and always. May he guide the medical professionals that care for him, in Christ name we pray. Amen

+1 for V61's. I dont have a loader, but the weight of this thing sure plays the part. I can sometimes still sink in a bit when its soft, but the tracks are shallow enough that the rears usually flatten /dimple it mostly out.

Had the same problem Don & traced it back to the petcock. Screen was ok but ripped so just took it off & run an in line filter as should anyway.. Come to find out the cock itself was plugged. This was on a tractor that had been sitting awhile. Yes starting fluid can wash down cylinder walls as well but so can too WD and carb cleaner if too much used.

Oh, how well I know! There are great little Mom & Pop diners with outstanding specialties all around, but my wife won't eat there because she has never eaten there! I like to watch Guy Fieri's "Diners, Drive Inns and Dives" and have made a point of going to some of the restaurants featured on the show when we are traveling. This is acceptable because we saw it on TV, the same place without a TV show would have been out of the question.

If your meter has a range to set it to check open/closed circuits, it helps in setting that timing. It does almost take 3 hands, really small hands to set the gap and get everything to land correctly. One, you really don't need a feeler gauge in there, just your two screwdrivers. Set the initial gap, then use the static method to adjust it further to time the breaker point to the flywheel mark. When setting those points, you must consider the direction the set screw will drag the adjustment and compensate for it slightly. Also, that screw doesn't need much torque to hold the point gap, just lightly tighten it - then check the timing a few revolutions and re-adjust as necessary. Properly set, with a new set of points and that thing should last a very long time depending on moisture intrusion. Newer electronic ignitions aren't all that great - too much heat and they can fail or just break down to the point of being weak - the old tried and true coil/points setup will last for 50yrs + with a little work now and then, it's a bulletproof system. I hope you didn't score the surface of the contacts with emery cloth too much - it will cause arcing over time and destroy them. That surface should be polished, a new set should be cleaned with just a sheet of clean paper and if you like some acetone will help. This is why dedicated points files are so smooth, it's about removing the oxide layer and polishing the surface - that's what makes them last. Sarge