Leaderboard

What do you think... how's it look?

I thought I would try to make a tiller idler using an old deck hitch as a starting point. I used a little piece of 3/4" pipe to couple on a cut down 3/4" bolt. I think I used schedule 80 pipe but use whatever is basically a press fit. I then drilled and installed spring pins for added security. A 'V' pulley from a deck mule drive goes on the bolt. Two spacers are also made from pieces of 3/4 pipe but drilled or filed out until they are a slip fit. One has also been pinned into place. I added teflon washers for smooth operation but this is optional. This is the finished product. Here are the plans I drew up. Tiller idler plans 1.pdf Tiller idler plans 2.pdf I used a hydraulic press and 'V' block to bend the flat bar but I imagine you could heat and bend it in a vise as well. Cleat

Tupa was the fourth of 4 puppies. No one wanted to take her as a puppy so we decided to keep her and now she's the only one still alive. She's prone to having seizures every once in a while and earlier tonight was a bad one. She completely stopped breathing, eyes were open, body very limp and her tongue was hanging out long. If you have ever been there when putting down a pet, you will know the look. She had died but my wife gave her CPR for about 10 minutes and she slowly came back to life. She's a bit tired now from her big ordeal but she was walking around and even went out to pee. About a year and 1/2 ago we were told by the vet that it's probably time to put her down as she was very sick with a high fever and wouldn't eat. My wife spoon fed her for 5 or 6 days and she slowly came back as good as new. She still runs around like a puppy every once in while even though she's almost 18 years old. We lost her 17 year old Maltese father about 3 or 4 years ago. Anyway, I'm thankful she made it and proud of my wife for loving her little dog so much. Just thought I'd share a good story about loosing our pets.

One of the biggest reasons to have it blasted versus using a wire wheel or other methods is to provide a solid surface finish for the primer to "bite" into - blasting leaves sort of a coarse top finish to the steel and will remove any reside from paints or the steel's pickling from when it passed through the rollers at the plant . Originally, WH just painted right over the pickling - it can prevent the paint from adhering properly and rust underneath - as we all know too well. Up to you , after all it is a tractor - not a show car but some guys push that boundary, lol. I will say this - prior to doing your primer - use some 80 grit sand paper to roughen the surface a little and use several coats per the instructions on the can. Self-etch primers work the best or a good automotive grade gray primer . Most of the red oxide primers do not dry nor cure well - I'd avoid those out of a spray can as it can lead to problems with lifting later. Either way, pay attention to re-coat times , humidity and temperature limits - those things will determine how well it adheres and looks after it's done. Small tests on easily hidden small parts is a great way to practice for a final finish - a common trick for pro shops and such. Bright sunlight will tell you if there are enough top coats - it generally takes 3 coats to get the full color depth. A nice easy wet sand with 400-600 will prep the top coat for the clear coat if you want to go that route. Hope this helps, have fun Sarge

Virus-free. www.avast.com

It is made of metal and not plastic. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06Y13P3RS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I14LT39ANKELHC&colid=20L8TYDTX7MKY&th=1

Use a multimeter set to the DC scale and put the red lead on the output side of the regulator and the black lead to ground. Make sure that the regulator is securely grounded. A bad ground can give you an over-voltage condition. At 3600 rpm you should be reading about 14.5 VDC. A regulator should always be tested with the battery connected. If in doubt, just get a new regulator. They are inexpensive.

Great project! Certainly worth all efforts to save the Horse! Grandson decided te Raider is "his" Stallion. Shall see when his legs sprout. Right now he'll be on his Mustang first!

not much to report. Just been cleaning and removing paint. Initially i was going to just paint over the frame but i decided to strip it down to bare metal and will use rustoleum etching primer. Decided on rustoleum regal red with rustoleum clear. I dont typically paint my projects myself ( i have done a few dirt bikes and old trucks ect) but i have been studying up on how to get a nice looking rattle can job. Hope to order my trans rebuild kit with in the next week or 2. Then i will tear into the motor. This has been a fun project so far and a joy to work on this old tractor. A lot of excellant builds and projects on red square that have really inspired me! I kind of feel a little guilty as i have never done anything to my c81 except a quick tune up and grease job. Hope she dont get to jelous

Tape it down good for driving it down the highway!

I might print both of them just for reference - eyes are about shot and my hand drawn references aren't exactly as neatly done ..thanks. Sarge

Looking good guy keep us up to date. Just a suggestion if you know somebody or anybody in the area that does sand blasting. Best way to clean up those frames and other parts as it will leave it whistle clean and get into those corners. Can save a lot of time with a wire wheel. Blast, wipe down and ready for primer/paint. Most places that make headstones do sandblasting as well as body shops. That what many of the fellas do here and comes out good. We've seen some fine paint jobs here come out of a rattle can. If I was going to do a true trailer queen I would pro paint it but painter I'm not and most of my tractors are going to end up with dirt and grease on them anyway!

It doesn't have a deck, just a blade. It'll be a snow pusher and pull my kids around the yard.

Thanks for the link Sarge.... Definitely NOT tossing the core.... I'd really like to try my hand at fixin' it at some point. Knowing me that could be tomorrow or a year from now but I'll mess with it at some point.

Charlie Daniels is a TRUE patriot

Thinking it might replace the Stars & Stripes here.

You can either look up the part numbers here - http://www.kohlerenginesparts.com/?brand=eng&id=ps_adw_eng_ongoing-paid-search_2017_56258290-VQ6-246154525348-VQ16-c-VQ15-1t1&source=google&mat=e&cat=branded&kwd=kohler+engine+parts&adpos=1t1&creative=246154525348&device=c&matchtype=e&network=g Or, use the Kohler single cylinder service manual and parts manuals - we should have them listed in the files section. You need the model/spec and serial numbers and dig through the tables to get the right section , then find the part numbers using the books. It's a pain , but there were so many variations built for different equipment it was necessary to list them all. The online lookup usually works pretty well - never let down yet. From looking for those parts on the K482 (same basic carb) it looks as though they may be discontinued now, rats. I have grabbed used parts off the auction site as well - many times they like new in comparison. Just don't toss the original - some of us are saving those cores and especially the rebuilder shops. Sarge

I like that wiring diagram, I printed it out for future use on my B-80. Thanks!

Years ago picked up my '90 520-8, had all the pieces shot blasted. Very pleased! The Horse is now Rustoleum Regal Red and Terry's decals. TORO is no longer in the picture.

Boy , if that don't put a lump in the ol' throat ! Thank you for sharing .

Saved it to the computer and a flash drive. I have shared Bob's diagram with a few members who needed wiring help. Thanks @BOB ELLISON, you are the best.

Is this rant about the previous owner and the weather the one you are referring to? I have read it a couple of times and don't see an answerable question. On previous occasions you have asked questions and received answers, ask a direct question and we will continue to provide information. We are a very friendly, helpful group and welcome honest feedback if we go astray, but you seem to be having a bad day, hope it gets better. "well guys here i am again ;i was wondering if the safety pedal switch are the same on either a standard or automatic as i am rewiring this horse as it seems someone spliced an extension cord from the plus side of the coil than to the key switch ;than to the back where the seat switch is which there is no switch there ;what a mess really ;so during the rewiring i think having the switch working it might help to start this oldie 'it has been darn cold here and freezing rain so i can't get outside to work on it ;boy i wish for spring as the walls keep getting closer ; as you can see in the picture how is this going to start the motor or am i missing something here ; sad news as yesterday i hit the 68 mark but heck that is just a number in life ;have a great day everyone enjoy your toys as i do"

Thanks everyone for the advise. My driveway is gravel, and i know it pretty well so Ive been plowing pretty hard in 3rd...but there isn't much to hit. I'm glad there are no right or wrong ways to do it, but rather just plow according to conditions. That makes sense to me. Thanks!!

That's what I did, printed both. Just for reference. Can't have too many papers with important info for my hobby.

....Huh ??? Not exactly sure what that's suppose to mean - far as I could tell the question was answered. The mess of the wiring in that post meant the thing really needed to be re-wired from scratch, far too many potential issues and the diagram provided would help with that. No reason to route the coil power through a safety switch or otherwise, the normal interrupt circuit is the starting relay trigger wire and safety switches on most small engine equipment. Not sure if that was intended as sarcasm or what - post counts mean nothing as not everyone knows electrical parts/systems. Sarge

Quite a lot of sand (shot) blasters do prime their work. Might ask if you're sending parts out to be blasted.

If the engine runs you can stick a length of wooden dowel in the timing hole and let it polish the rust on the side of the flywheel. The timing marks don't get polished leaving them visible. Garry

Guys I can't thank you enough! Ebinmaine I appreciate all the information. Thank you 953Nut, I like the Delphi Packard Terminals, and I enjoy soldering and using shrink Wrap. Thank you Bob for reworking the wiring diagram, I may as well wire in the clutch and PTO switch while I am at it. Where do you guys purchase these safety switches? Do you use the Toro brand? Thanks again for all this help. Johnny Walker

Shaft should be available , might want to order one to rebuild the original as I doubt the Chinese castings will last all that long. The shafts in mine are already showing some slop - not that many hours on it since mid-summer. It's fairly easy to re-bush those Kohler carbs if you have a drill press and buy a few cheap reamers sized to fit new bushings - once installed and ream them to final dimension they work soooo smooth and will stay that way for a very long time. Sarge

@jimkemp makes a nice stack talk to him. The lens are getting harder to find but pop up on ebay now and then. Same with dash plastic but you may be able to resto the old one?? this may help or not

Had to replace it on all my Onans. Very common for these to overcharge and cook the battery. A one minute job if you don't drop in down in the shroud. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DHPMEY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Likewise . Often, when I'm thinking, stab the flexible markers along the drives. Just in case we're having "too much" white, wet, nasty cold stuff. Come spring, spring tooth rakes keep the Grandsons busy puttin' gravel back where it belongs.

With any electrical problem the first step is to clean and tighten all electrical connections including grounds. As Bob said, if corrosion builds up between the regulator and ground overcharging will result. Simple maintenance will keep it going for decades. Or, could it be the battery was replaced because it was old?

Today testing the two way plow

With a multi-meter, on the output lug of the regulator measure the voltage while engine running from idle to WOT 11.8-13.6 volts should be a functioning range, anything less or more regulator should be replaced, you can find them on eBay and Amazon for $20 or less just not genuine Onan, Jeff.

Here you go! These decals are great. https://www.redoyourhorse.com/search.php?search_query=1973&x=0&y=0 This list of vendors should help with other things, http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/92-vendors/

@jwalk2cc I'll rework the color electrical diagram with the AMP gage . And remove the relay. It will be the basic wiring diagram. Well here is the basic what you need to start and run good. I would suggest you fix or replace the PTO and the Clutch switchs as soon as you can. If you don't have the switchs or they don't work just run a single wire from solenoid to the S terminal on the key switch. It's the RED wire

Ditto...Been using my cake pan, with the same old paint brush and tooth brush, for 30+ years..."pump" hasn't worn out yet since there isn't one... and BONUS!... it doubles as my dirty oil catch pan... gas works in a pinch as well... I do use good gloves and ventilation...

Well guys i finally settled on a truck, i didnt end up with a nitro truck yet..... @Achto but i did take your advice with the kids and electric will be easier with them around. I settled on a 1/10th scale rock crawler/trail truck these things are awesome! I got an Axial Scx10 II this thing has working ring and pinions, 4x4, adjustable shocks! The weather is kinda cold right now so i have been stacking up the kids toys to drive over kinda fun cant wait till the weather gets nicer!

1974 Wheel Horse D180 - nicknamed Big Ugly ( seriously - look at it 2010 AKC all-German black and red, semi-wavy long coat German Shepherd - Toby (Drew Von Selten Ruhe) , sorry about his coat - needs to go see the hair dresser, we all have bad hair days....lol. His job is to guard the tractor when I'm not on it ...someone was walking past out on the street - they get the "stare". Loading a video (finally) of the thing doing some minor work - only got 4" last night but the stuff is fairly wet despite the temperatures. 20*F for a high today - was nice for a change. Sarge

If you don't have the little peep hole for timing the engine tins may need to be removed. On older engines the marks would probably need to be cleaned up to be seen. Kohler static_timing.pdf

I plow fast...BUT i know where i am plowing. If there is a possibility of obstructions (rocks, cracks. curbs) then slower is wiser....

thank you this wheel horse was previously sold in France and was delivered with this plow

Here are more pics

1054 is the Preferred Tractor for my Son Farmer Alex, even better then his D200, Said it Plows, Pushes, drags logs, pulls cars & trucks .

Excellent. Thank you Bob!

Speed is ok when you know the ground is smooth - if there is broken concrete or anything else that might catch that blade you need to be careful. It can not only launch you over the steering wheel , but do some serious damage to your machine. Need to pick the speed to the conditions - take your time and learn how it works and it's limits - don't abuse it and they will last a long time. I push mine pretty hard, but also have the ability to repair/rebuild when I do break something - and I have broken a few things....lol. Sarge

@jwalk2cc No worries about hijacking one of my threads. ..ever. I don't mind at all. One of us will get your rig straightened out with you. I'm in the middle of a very similar project on a 1974. When I get to my pc I'll read this more thoroughly and tell you what I can.

Looking good Eric! Don’t forget to retorque after you’ve had a little run time. Can’t wait to see the video of this thing running...

@ebinmaine I also forgot to mention in this diagram I added different lights so I added a relay it's the blue wires. If you want a diagram without the relay I can post one . I made this diagram with a relay so I could add brighter headlights that draw more amp's without destroying the key switch.