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I tested my new generator tonight. It works!

I just wanted to share with everyone that I was able to replace the original bearing that was 3/4" ID and 2" OD with one from Tractor Supply. The only thing I had to do was locate a replacement housing for the bearing, which happened to be located right next to the bearing. The holes line right up with the existing and the total cost was $20.The bearing was almost impossible to locate since I didn't want to spend $70+ for the wheel horse branded one. Part numbers are 11-95125(bearing) and 11-98409(housing). See the attached pictures for more information. Let me know if you have any questions or concerns. The bearing being replaced was the upper on on the shaft that runs the chain.

I've never really felt applying decals was that much of a challenge. Might just be all the experience I've acquired applying the old water slide decals during my scale model building days... that gives me the confidence? I typically only like to use factory originals whenever available...regardless of their age. To my eye, new vinyl, and the modern printing process just can't compare to the originals. I remember taking a chance on Ebay auction, obtaining an over 30 year old NOS factory original T-stripe for the hood of my AMX. Everyone told me there is no way it would ever work, don't waste your money...let me tell you, that thing turned out sooo nice.

Hood hinge almost done. So I decided to try my hand at multitasking. So I have this foot pedal assy from an un-named green tractor that I am going to try and use on this. It mounted below the foot rest. How ever the gt14’s footrest is too wide for this to sit right. So I figured if I cut it right down the middle, sleeve the rods and weld a wider backing plate to it, I can mount it right to the bottom of the frame and bring the pedals right up through the right foot rest. This tractor will never mow anyways. After the paint that was put on it and the abuse it was put through, Skittles will have nice life. More to come as it progresses. The picture with the red background I borrowed but this is the same assembly I will be using.

@WV Hillbilly, That sure is a cool tractor. Looks like a good way to spend A LOT of money, I count about $4800 in IH suitcase weights alone. The best way to become a millionaire pulling tractors is to start with 3 million.

Ok so while you guys are showing off your rears here's my method. First I take a big swig off the bottle of Wild Turkey just to get up the gumption up for a eleven thumbed idiot like me to even attempt ruining a $40 decal. Nobody ever told me I was supposed to clean the SURFACE with alcohol. Then I take the decal and crumble it up and rip it in a couple of places. Hey it's gonna happen so I may as well just get it over with. Then I peel the backing off and just slap it on like I was wackin the wife's bottom. I get about the same results from the decal. After a couple more pulls off the turkey it looks fine. Did I mention I usually buy two sets & I am on Vinyl Guy's Christmas card list? When I sober up and see how it really looks I take the second set over to @Achto's place and let him put it on! Seriously Richard @953 nut your rear looks great, you get that one from Terry? Never mind found it! Gotta have one! Speaking of @Vinylguy get some popcorn there's a movie https://www.redoyourhorse.com/installation-tips/

Jim maybe the problem is your trying to use Delta parts on a Kohler ...

Yes you can use this method. When you wet it with (dish) soapy water, the soap helps keep the decal suspended on the liquid till you get it where you want it. Squeegee the water out from under the decal getting all the bubbles out and then park it in the sun for a couple hours.

I was thinking more like this, go big or go home I was told...

Yes it it should go to a good home with someone who has the time to do it right.

Any body remember these beauties? Laying the wood grain down on these was always a joy!! The wheel openings were a major PITA. Back when I worked as an auto body tech, we had one customer that drove their Caravan by feel.. I replaced 4 fenders, + other damage on that van alone, in about a years time. ( Didn't like seeing that van pull in the yard ) It did give opportunity to acquired a little bit skill with vinyl. Luckily my current job allows me to lay down some vinyl once and a while, so I keep me in practice.

Oh I know, I have buddies my age playing in the truck pulling game spending way too much $ to earn a $20 plastic trophy, I drove one time in my buddies $5k "street legal" 400 Pontiac powered GMC and got the truck a best distance ever of 262' for 2cd place, the other buddy has $50k in a short bed Chevy with about 10 trophies on the bookcase that was 7 years ago...I'll stick with my "street legal" car playing on the streets scaring old women and young children ...

More my style.... Mean Ole Allis was one of the tractors to beat in the 70’s and 80’s .

Soooo true!

Sorry Josh ...couldn't resist! Actually I do see some possibilities .... a bracket something like these, clean it up, figure out what those gator clips might be for, some rewiring, Biggest problem might be getting that pulley off for internal work & to get it spinning at the correct rpm per Dan's specifications. I'd take a crack at you get that pulley off. Any nameplate for research on it?

.....That’s way to nice to part out . Save a horse , this one of course !

Cool setup there for sure My son picked up a "home built" generator with his JackRabbit. Once we have the tractor running, I want to test it and do some organization of the external box, gauge, and wiring. I'm hoping that my local expert @Achto will be able to guide us through this process. I can see a lot of possibilities with it....

How much you want for it as it sets? without attempting to fix it...

These are some great historical photos... click anywhere on the right side of each photo to move to the next one RareHistoricalPhotos.pps - Google Slides

The right side bearing should be a simple fix because the right 1/2 of the case can be removed with transmission staying in the tractor. That would leave the differential free to slide out so the left bearing could be changed. Garry

Grandson needed a stack for “his” Horse.

Got this one in a tractor package deal... sold the tractor then, kept all it's free attachments. Original owner claimed to have only ever used it one time.

Looks like the seller has provided plenty of pictures and isn't trying to hide anything. Even let a buyer know that the gear box shaft is loose and would need repair. He has a 100% rating and deals in outdoor power equipment. Looks like it just needs a few repairs and a good oiling as the patina is already there. Would I give his asking price, no but if I were to put mine up for sale on a worldwide auction I would start a lot higher.

can’t wait to see this come together—I may have to copy on Blackbeard since it will be 10 years before Zach is old enough to restore it to original with me. I have access to some parts that I can modify for now and yet keep the original parts for installation During the restore. YOU—> ME—->

I might add, before removing the old decals take pictures and measurements to aid in getting the new ones to being put back as close to original and possible, with that you could also lay down blue/green painter's tape as guide to help keep them straight and use dish soap and water or get window tint film application solution sold at Walmart or a car parts store to help aid in keeping the air bubbles out, Jeff.

It's good to have an expert like Dan close by, isn't Jim! When it comes to the letters for the JackRabbit, I'll have to give him a shout...

Good safety tips and suggestions on wall finishes. When I insulated mine I put Hard Board on the bottom 4 ft and peg board to the ceiling. Not fire proof, but saved on my back as it's lighter to manage than drywall, and gave me lots of places to hang tools and other stuff. Now if I could just get around to cleaning it up every once and a while......

A good clean up, an addition of some exterior out let boxes ( instead of loose cord hanging out of the bottom ), get your mounting figured out. It already has a volt meter, but I would also like to see a frequency meter on it. With these changes I think you'll have a right nice set up Josh

You have an amazing way with words Eric! It’s a 5KW generator made by WINPOWER. I’m guessing by looking at it that it is more than 30 years old. Not pictured is long pieces of angle iron that bolt to the frame to hold it on. I would like to fabricate a hitch though that works with the front attach-a-matic with a support strut like the factory setup. It has a residential exterior Square D box. I want to reorganize all the exterior wiring and make it durable and streamlined... I’m open to thoughts and ideas from the electrician’s here to make it the best, convenient setup possible since I’m not bound to keep it original...

I'll get some from my phone--I'm at the computer now. It was marketed as a factory setup but I knew as soon as I saw pics it wasn't. I was initially disapointed but when I realized that it was a 5KW unit and it didn't matter how much I use it, I'm not wearing out a rare piece--I realized it likely was a good find. It isn't pretty right now but I'm confident that we can make a nice looking, functional piece out of it...One of my local cirle buddies told me that I shoul use it at plow days for some front end weight

Well, now that the workshop is in usable condition... I hope to start taking apart this c - 160 tomorrow. I suppose probably I'm going to have to make up a new thread and include some cool photos to keep everybody happy.

Someone either has wicked patience or way too much time on their hands, but on a more serious note @AMC RULESsuper sweet realistic modeling right there, Jeff.

That's what I used when I built the little SBC in my Malibu, and it did NOT stick to any of the clean parts...

Good to know... as I just set up another mini-plow Horse here today. Can't wait to get some seat time on this little guy before the season ends.

Put the lights on the cab, linear actuator on the chute deflector, little heat and a chute crank extension. Motorized chute rotator later. Predicting about 10" of wet and heavy Monday.

Here is one suggestion that is not the cleanest but works extremely well and is low price. Every time that you change your oil, take your waste oil and spray it into known problem spots. Example: get it up between the inner and outer wheel wells, inside the door bottoms, in the rear quarter lowers, inside the rockers, and any other places known to rust. Oiled metal resists rust very well, oil will even soak into existing rust and hold it at bay. Oil will work its way to the out side where it can, but it's easy to wipe up and usually stops seeping out after a couple of weeks. Like I said this is not the cleanest method but it does work exceptionally well.

Rinse the underside often and make sure no mud builds up to hold moisture and it will never rust. I have several old vehicles and all are rust free. It takes a little persistence but it works. I just use a hose without a nozzle and make sure all the nooks and crannies are clean. Washing the painted surfaces makes a vehicle look nice but is not necessary for rust prevention. Rust through always happens from the inside out.

Well my old van is finally being replaced. For the last several years I have drove my 2005 Ford E-150. The van has never done me wrong and has hauled what ever I really needed to with no issues. But it has 384000 miles on it now and the new York weather has tooking it's toll on the lower sides of the sheet metal. So since summer I been searching for a replacement and last week Thursday I found one. Just went and picked it up today. 2006 Chevy Silverado LS 1500. No rust and super low mileage. The price was amazing so i jumped on the deal.

Old timers from across the field might mistake it for an LP tank as big as it is!!!

If the existing bearing is bad and you push it in it may fall apart and you will have something like this. (it took out the 1533 also)

Thanks Dan for weighing in here! This is your “current” (pun intended) livelihood after all! This is a small potatoes piece compared to the monsters that you are used to dealing with on a daily basis. I can’t wait to brainstorm on this piece with you and I’ll be sure to do a thread elsewhere to follow the progress... regarding age—If I can get the necessary parts to keep it going—I’d rather have something old and reliable than something new that will need to be thrown away in about 5-7 years! If I can’t get parts—I have about a 120# front end weight for plowing!

HAHAHAHAHA So you thought you had a generator that had some value. Then you did not have a generator that had some value. Then you're thinking you had a generator that you could use without worrying about it. Then you're thinking that you had a generator that you could use without worrying about it but might not work anyway. But then somebody realizes the thing is so heavy that it would be better than a lot of front end weights anyhow. Sounds like you won.......

@PeacemakerJack.... how about some pictures of that generator?? Maybe I missed them...

Thanks. The asking price is in line with the numbers above.

Thanks Glen! The photo of Supreme Commander MacArthur accepting the unconditional surrender of the Japanese armed forces brought a memory. My wife and I traveled to Hawaii some years back. The first thing I did was to take her to the USS Arizona Memorial to pay our respects. Then I took her aboard the USS Missouri and pointed out the plaque attached to the deck showing where the signing was done. She did not get it, but I tried to explain the deep significance of the sites we had visited. The USS Arizona was a somewhat isolationist, innocent America. The USS Missouri was America as a global super power. The book ends of a war that still define 'old history' from 'modern history'.

Try some Berrymans carb cleaner on it Dells that might help take the carbon off . Dump some in a shallow scrap baking pan from the missus and set it in if it don't fit in the can. As far as the gouges go yer on your own... look pretty deep. Maybe know a machine shop that could surface grind it!? Then some glassing? Might end up with a high compression head which means you might have to get into the pulling business! "Nother tip Dells is a Dremel with a small wire wheel gets in those tight spots. While you got the Dremel out some porting and polishing.... whoops back in the pulling business!

I know I'm beating a dead horse here and it has been well documented that Windex is the way; I just want to show off my window decal too!

You know how it goes @squonk start messing with fuel lines and all the crud shakes loose! Them boys at NAPA want you to step behind the counter just for old times sake? Worked a little on the 12 hp tonite again then figured out what I forgot and promptly threw in the towel. Can you spot it (hint this is a magneto motor).

Would love to see a vid of those doing 25 mph