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There are threads inside the Elect PTO field. Here are two pics. The long bolt (6" or so) threads into these and presses against the end of the engind crankshaft, forcing the PTO to come of off the shaft. DO NOT USE A PULLER OF ANY SORT. There are threads inside the Elect PTO field. Here are two pics. The long bolt (6" or so) threads into these and presses against the end of the engind crankshaft, forcing the PTO to come of off the shaft. DO NOT USE A PULLER OF ANY SORT.

New van is finally here. Still hard to believe the condition this thing is in. On top of that previous owner had the whole thing detailed, replaced a taillight that had a scratch in it, took it to his mechanic to ensure all fluids were OK, and drove it to my house and insisted that I drive it and inspect it again and if I was not happy he would give me my deposit back. I cant believe my luck. Those of you who own one of these vans will definitely appreciate the condition of this thing for a 2007. There are a few blemishes on photos but it is some crud in the lens of my camera. The only body damage!One little nick! I don't think anyone has EVER been on passenger side. Springs still have factory tags Fluids are totally clear.

I just like to compare the price to that of a big box store lawnmower....if the WH costs you 1000 to 1500, how does that compare to a lawnmower?....The WH should give you 25-30 years with good maintenance.....the lawnmower about 6 - 8 years.. I forget, what is the question???

Need to have Terry @Vinylguy make you up a set of these decals.

I did this when I restored a Commando 800 for my grandson. The slots in the pan give you quite a bit of adjustment. The back of it is bolted directly to the fender pan since there's so need for it to flip up. I'm doing the same thing on my 500 Special. I was also concerned about the fender latch so I spring loaded it latched closed.

Best part of the show is the people!

I paid $1400 for mine. '96 3/12-8 with 1-1/8" axles, magnum 12, 850 hours when I got it. Came with the 37" deck, bagger, 44" snowblower, cast iron weights and chains. Like others have said in the northeast they hold their value. Even the beaters command $500. Its incredible what 12hp can do. I've pushed and pulled way more than I thought a garden tractor could and I don't feel I've gone anywhere near the limit of the machine. Also mows as good as any commercial mower I've ever used.

@Big_Red_Fred and @ACman, Please have the costume party after lunch on Saturday. I will be on the road by then and what has been seen can't be unseen! A ten hour trip with those images in my head could be dangerous.

You guys show up wearing these, I’m going back home

I'm a Mr. Krabs guy myself! EK EK EK EK EK EK EK!

Okay, so I ordered. rec'd and installed the Poly Scrapper Blade 4" X 42" X 1/2" and installed on my C-81 ding dong done..... looks good and should work good..... we'll see snow coming Tuesday... Thank you gentleman. P.S. used 5/16ths X 1 1/2" inch carriage bolt (Tractor Supply) to mount.

......that’s some funny poo 💩 right there! This might be But I don’t wear any underwear if you can find me some adult Sponge Bob and Patrick briefs (unused of course....just staying one step ahead of Fred) I’d sport them at the show. They’d match my shirt but I don’t think others at the show would appreciate that site !

Some folks design a bracket/piece of steel that bolts onto the original seat location but allows more flexibility to move the seat itself farther back (or forward) if needed. You need to be creative!

I don't personally have a problem with that, many of these tractors have been modified by their owners over the years. You got to be comfortable when your on your tractor.

Hey all My first of many questions !!!! I attached the plow and fired up the Hydro..... it really is a sweet machine. I'd like to put the seat back about two inches... is it sacrilege to just drill new mounting holes ? Should I make some extension brackets for the seat and NOT drill new holes ? Someone must have done this... suggestions ? And thanks... Mike B

That may be a tall order, the side wall of that bearing is not much. I agree with @953 nut, if you pull it off I would like to see how it's done. Always good to get some learning in.

Yes ill think ill pass on the party, 1st i must introduce myself to the Club, Yes Dick & Jim, ya have to meet the old Meat Bag in person I think my Kids would say i fit the Mermaid Man the best, fuzzy slippers & all LOL, Off to the Invisable Boat Laddy Big Fred & Richie

Hello Arthur and Your predicament is not unusual and hopefully easily fixed. Assuming you are talking about the oil drain/nipple coming out the back of the motor. First thing you must do is drain the oil. then loosen & remove the four bolts holding down the motor to the mounting plate. This will enable you to raise the motor up in the rear about a half inch or so. Wedge something suitable under it to hold it up there. This will enable you to remove both the drain pipe and then the elbow and the pipe that threads into the block. Check all threads for imperfections. If it looks suspicious replace it. They will be 3/8 NPT thread easily found, well maybe not on your side of the pond?, at any hardware store. Clean the female threads in the block very carefully and inspect. You might have to get in there with a cotton swab and some solvent as the threads must be clean and grease/oil free. I would suggest the product below but any quality thread locker would work. Get advice from the hardware store or auto store to see what's available in your neck of the woods. Reassemble the way it came apart, do take Jeff's advise on tightening. Refill with oil. and your done! Might be a good time to change the filter like above while your at it.

And always check to assure the hours match the wear and tear...

This is what I used on my 520 when I replaced my seat. Lots of holes for multiple mounting points. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200333225_200333225

Thanks for the ideas !!! I'll whip up some extender brackets this weekend. Mike B

@ebinmaine Sure! So I needed to extend the seat of a Commando 800 for my 7' uncle. I originally added seat springs from a B-80, thinking it would add height. Next I took Ed Kendall's suggestion by ordering a pair of Unistrut channels and 4 hangers from McMaster-Carr. I ordered (2) 2-7/16" high channels (Part # 3548T213) and (4) 1/4"-20 Tab-Lock Nuts (Part #2233K11). You can even order them in powder-coated RED. They ship fast. I mounted the channels to the fender pan using original holes (channel has pre-drilled holes, some slotted), then I slid 2 hangers down each of the channels and tightened them down (up) to the seat spring holes and adjusted to the appropriate length. I did have to bolt down the fender pan for safety concerns that my uncle may accidentally hit the seat latch and find himself falling backward. Those Unstrut channels from McMaster-Carr are industrial strength, not like the whimpy U-shaped channels you find at a store.

As long as all of his shots are up to date, he should be ok.

I'm rebuilding a Sundstrand #90-1136 that came out of my 1974 WH B-100. I Found this company www.novahydraulics.com that has the entire rebuild kit PN / 99890. It shipped quick too. Gordy is the man you want to talk to regarding Sundstrand units. Good hunting all.

I was perusing the eBay WH listings this morning and ran across a WH sickle bar for sale by a seller in Streator, IL. The item looks to be in pretty rough, unserviceable current condition. I know that aren't tens of thousands of the sickle mowers out there, especially operating and serviceable units. I also have a pretty rough idea of what the generally go for, even when functioning. But IMO, the seller's asking price is way more than starry eyed and blissfully wishful, its down right nuts and outrageous, for what it is. Priced @ $750. I am not posting the link, but it can easily be located on eBay. Opinions anyone?

Don't know if it has been done, but if you do it .

@953 nut Dick I agree with you , I only have about 3 1/2 hour drive and I don't want visions of @ACman and @Big_Red_Fred floating around while I am on 81 or 95 headed south

Sad that you sold your PURDY but glad that it went to a good home and that is quite a stack of Benjamin’s...

Well it is with great regret and happiness I must inform you all that "PURDY" The Wheel Horse went to her new home owners today who very happily handed me 25 crisp hundred dollar bills for her. A very Nice retired couple in their 70's who have a little sheep farm in the country, and she is going to use it to push bedding out of the big berthing stalls with it. SHe was like a little kid - so excited to get it, and told me i was welcome to come out and visit it anytime I wanted = GREAT PEOPLE !!!

I’ll wear some swim goggles , flippers and snorkel tell everyone thought I was going to beach... .....

As long it isnt a Muzzel break Jim, im wearing my sponge bob bullet proof vest

Yours is nice too Aldon, good thing I'm not a GT junkie! If I bought yours I would have to get a tractor to put it on. That would mean more storage room/bigger barn and that would mean a bigger lot and that would mean .... somebody feel free to stop me here!

Being a S bar junkie I had to check it out @Chris G Just cause your not hungry don't mean you can't look at the menu! Looks like you got somebody interested too.

Presuming they are in great condition the deck and cart would be reasonable at $ 200 each and a low hour 312-8 should be worth upwards of $ 700 so a bundle price of $ 1,000 seems about right to me.

My b80 is also set up like that with multiple holes. Unfortunately some other owners have added multiple other holes... and I've drilled two more myself So it's beginning to look a bit like Swiss cheese

We all said that about the seller who wanted an arm and a leg for a S/G belt guard for a 701 ($250 if I recall correctly), we all figured he was crazy, but it sold! There are some extremely starry eyed optimists in any hobby and unfortunately there will always be novice who has deep pockets. Seems they are never around when I'm selling.

A short vid of my 312/417 in infrared. It's a FLIR one. Uses a smart phone, I have an old Note2. After looking at it I did notice the rear cylinder exhaust seemed to be running cooler. It will even show what wires are drawing more current and heating up Enjoy???? flir_20180123T111311.mp4

Just looked under mine a few minutes ago and there are four sets of holes for adjustment already there and they sure appear to be factory. Gary

Hunt around some of the tractor bone yards - some later models of various makes used a slider assembly that is about 3/4" thick. I put one of those on top of the seat springs on a C series and that raised the seat just a bit , but also allowed it to go quite a ways back. Made it a lot more comfortable to operate. Nice part - it allows someone of short stature to use it as well, wish they all would have had an adjustable seat on them. The old 1277 had it's seat bolted directly to the pan - it got a set of C series springs as well as spacer blocks , I'm 6' and can't sit with my legs bent tightly any more, so it helps a lot. Sarge

@JimmyJam Maybe you could share what you did for your uncle.... I agree with trying not to drill holes. Not for the sake of originality but for the sake of strength.

It's Magic and Fairy Dust Richmond. When I first bought my tractor I couldn't figure it out at all. Did a search on google which lead me to this forum and PUFF the clutch was off. Since then got a used coil for the clutch, joined the forum and became a Supporter. As I said Magic and Fairy Dust will do it every time and a little advise from the experts! Gary

Try either of these. You just need to run wires to power them. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-fixtures/low-profile-vehicle-led-mini-strobe-light-head-single-or-dual-color-18-watt/3458/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-fixtures/9-watt-vehicle-mini-strobe-light-head/3457/

Might cause a stress point by just drilling new holes. In addition to moving the seat back you can gain some leg room by raising it an inch or two.

One of many on the internet. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/car-install-supplies/fl2-red-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/779/833/?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_

With the lower current draw of LED lights, a standard flasher will not work.

Saw my old 90 210H on CL today. I bought it new. Got an Allis Chalmers blower after the Super Storm in 93 and made it fit. This little guy was tough. all I ever did to it was a diode and a tie rod. Moved lots of snow with it. I'm not linking the ad because of rules but here is the pic from the ad I sold it about 6 yrs. ago.

You will need a low current LED compatible flasher. Not a big deal as they are readily available, I have them in a couple of my vehicles. I bought mine on ebay. Cleat

MGK What Hillbilly posted above is probably the root cause as it is well documented. Perhaps @boomers_influence or one of the other Onan gurus can chime in for a better explanation and fix. Close one eye Jeffrey .... yer postin double!

At my age with 15 or 16 or 17 WHs I have enough trouble trying to remember what they are, what implement they have attached, and where they are parked....no way I could remember names.