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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/08/2017 in all areas

  1. 25 points
    I recently commissioned a young guy to carry out a reproduction of the wheelhorse sudurban sign , I think he has made a pretty smart job of it . Made from a plastic vinyl film over clear glass and contoured with lead . He has done such a nice job I now intend to have a few more designs done .
  2. 12 points
  3. 5 points
    My favorite series is the mid 70's B and C's. Often it's the tractors history that makes them a personal favorite. That's the case with my 1976 'B'-160 that I bought brand new. Most of you know the story of it being sold when we moved to Florida and being with the second owner for 17 years. I never would have thought that I would own it again now that we are back in Indiana but it happened. The second owner obviously took great care of it. This is as I got it back. I went over it with all new service/maintenance parts, replacing a couple missing items and a new muffler. The 48" deck is still in great shape. It did have a bad bearing so I replaced all six and it hums like a sewing machine again. Right now it's ready for winter with a blade, 2-link chains and weights.
  4. 4 points
    not a wheel horse in my mirror this time...but rather a Ford 2n...finally got to branch out into collecting larger tractors
  5. 4 points
    You may find it easier to buy another tractor with an Eaton 1100 and swap the trans axles. Dual tires on the rear are meant for stability from tipping sideways. But they can damage the axles as you have found out. There are two schools of thought on loading tires versus hanging weight on the rear of the tractor. Hanging weight on the rear is supposedly hard on axle seals. But loaded tires are hard on hubs and keyways as the rotational force tries to keep the tire turning while you are stopping or changing direction..
  6. 4 points
    These are 'Rubber Tire Chains" and work very well on asphalt, with weight in the tire . . . . fronts are weighted also (Rim Guard, molasses). Note: smaller tires with less contact on the ground will provide the most traction. Tires with more 'Pounds per Square Inch' can dig-down and grip the ground; a smaller footprint concentrates the weight on a smaller area, a big larger tire footprint spreads the weight over a larger area and almost sits on top the snow or ice For Summer mowing you want a large-wider-lighter-flater tire to ride on and not dig in the grass (tire pressure: 20psi in Winter, 8–10psi in Summer).
  7. 4 points
    520 HC with ONAN the barbarian under the hood. The fastest and the Grand-dady if all 520s. 252 H with high ground clearance and bullet proof Kawasaki engine makes it the perfect yard mule. And all my other horses.
  8. 3 points
    Many to choose from, but my little guy is still my favorite.
  9. 3 points
    Hope you don't get any speeding tickets!
  10. 3 points
    My RJ59 Topspeed Is 6.6mph In 3rd Only Things I Did Was Change The Oil To High Mileage 10W30 Engine Oil & A New Spark Plug & I Got New A Carb Coming In For It In The Next Few Days Since The Old Carb Keep Flooding It Self After It Been Running For A Few Mins
  11. 3 points
    Well now you know Jim Thanks Sarge, along the side of the engine was the only space I could put the bearings and shafts, but as you say they are easy to get at and shouldn't collect too much muck and mud... I will make a cover for the shafts and bearings as I don't want it grabbing a trouser leg and pulling me in! Not much to report, Monday was spent arguing with a car radio, and yesterday my knees were so bad I was only in the workshop for a little while.. But I did manage to get the front driveshaft welded up.. I don't think the welds are going to break Here's the latest MadTrax video... Enjoy
  12. 3 points
    My favorite is the 1067 (tractor on the right). This was my father's Wheel Horse and the one I used to mow as a boy. (Vintage; before and after restore.) Dad and grand daughter.
  13. 2 points
    New unit coming along nicely waiting for some coated parts to get back
  14. 2 points
    Upgraded from a 312 to a 520H this week. It says 29 hours on the meter, hoping its correct. I started by changing all the engine oils and filter, gas filter, air filter, greased the fittings, and put new plugs in. I also changed the hydraulic oil & filter and am noticing the oil goes in VERY Slowly. Is this normal? How much oil should it take. I put in 2 quarts and the stick is dry. 2 more questions: 1) the front tires are dry rotted and only hold air for about 2 days. is there anything i can do to save them (Slim, tubes, other?) or just buy new ones? 2) When I start the machine the volts go all the way over to 16 and stay there. Is that normal? It came with a Leveling blade that mount under the machine(where the deck goes). that's for sale if there is any interest. It also came with a plow, weights, chains. that's for sale if there is any interest It also came with a deck that is a rear discharge. that is for sale if there is any interest. Anyone selling a side discharge deck? it also came with 4 gray hub caps, that's for sale if there is any interest more pics of items for sale
  15. 2 points
    Most of you probably remember here a couple weeks back I traded my bucket truck for a 1981 F250 and a Ford 2n tractor. Got the pickup home a few days back but hadn't got around to getting the tractor over here yet. Well today was the day she finally got to come home, so I was pretty excited about that. Then was browsing the marketplace on Facebook and found the exact building ive been wanting for a Horse stable. 12x32 portable garage. This one was a repo building so got a pretty sizeable discount on it. Should be delivered one day next week.
  16. 2 points
    Any good quick thinking realtor would brush that off with a wave of their hand. See? Firewood just falls into your hands.
  17. 2 points
    does your transmission have an external brake drum or internal parking brake pawl? if it's the pawl, then once worn they just ratchet over the gear when the parking brake is set
  18. 2 points
    Still have green leaves on the trees here despite some very cold temps - Mother Nature has been pretty confused in the Midwest this fall . D180 is in pieces at the moment in the larger shed and the 16 Auto has the lawn vac still hooked up to it for now . Hoping to go out today to do a final mow/cleanup - far colder temps the next few days . Not even close to ready for the white stuff yet and it's common to get hammered here out of nowhere in November - gotta roll with it and react as needed . Can't count how many times in the fall I've mowed and only a day or two later I'm pushing snow on unfrozen ground - I hate that . Sarge
  19. 2 points
    The foot running board acts as a stop to keep the pedal coming back like that if I remember correctly. Lift the pedal up and see if the corner of the running board is bent down. Bend back up and it should restore the stop function. Garry
  20. 2 points
    It sounds like a lot of money but a gallon set up of good automotive clear is $200+. So it's right in the ball park of automotive paint.
  21. 2 points
    Very skilled young man. Thanks for sharing this with us.
  22. 2 points
    The illustration on page 15 of this manual gives a bit more information on the brakes for your Wheel Horse. Simple hand tools will be sufficient for this job.
  23. 2 points
    Cat under the birdbath. Coincidence? I think not. Fish where the fish are. Smart cat!
  24. 2 points
    I'd have to agree with Eric on the 29 hrs but he is spot on about filling the transmission, a few of us leave the filter loose while filling to alow air to escape loosen a top bolt. Tube the tires or replace but DO NOT put in tire slime... Eric knows. Replace the voltage regulator if it charges above 14 volts ...these regs are known for over charging and are less than 20 bucks at popular auction sites. PLEASE post an item for sale in the proper classifieds if you are selling items off the tractor, not here. Let us know if you have any more problems with her, lots of 520 pros here and good luck with her!
  25. 2 points
    Probably the rod came out or a spring broke. Here's the manuals to help.
  26. 2 points
    tubes or new front tires, if you ever have to remove a tire that had slim in and see the rim you'll understand. check the battery with the engine off and running to see what your voltage is, I have some tractors that the gauge does that. One of them I replaced with another used gauge and had the same problem, but when checked with meter it shows proper voltage remove one of the gas tank support bracket bolts and this will allow air to escape I would venture to say 29 hrs on meter is not correct, sorry looks like a nice find and good luck eric j
  27. 2 points
    I agree. Having an auction might cause problems between collectors rather than bring us together. I have seen a silent auction held by one of our members for a machine he was selling.
  28. 2 points
    Even though I like the 300/400 series machines, my favorite is the early C series, especially the C160 which is still my favorite in spite of all the little issues I've had with it over the past couple years. I've moved it closer to home so I can get everything straightened out over the winter/early spring. The older machines are so much easier to maintain and work on.
  29. 2 points
    have you checked the points and timing and could the carb need some tweaking. It would be worth trying to tune it up before calling for an expensive rebuild, if it's not knocking, smoking that bad or using a lot of oil, it may not need a rebuild. As I was writing this I recalled some of the tired old Kohler's that I had in the past, when starting no matter warm or cold you had to use full choke to get it started . just something to think about, good luck eric j
  30. 2 points
    My favorite is the red ones!
  31. 2 points
    What about an ATV tire in a 23x10-12? Looks like this could be pretty serious in the snow:
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
    Dual ags on my '58 Ride-Away Jr.
  34. 2 points
    We had a full sized beech tree begin to bud back in spring, then just stopped, dead. No worries about the tree... We live in plenty of forest... but I've been mulling over how to fell it for 5 or 6 months. It was leaning Towards the back lawn and septic system... Bad place to drop a tree. Well this last tropical storm took care of it for us. Here in Maine we get a lot of bad storms that are Nor'eastah's as we say so the trees grow to withstand them. This one came in VERY strong from the southeast and took down A LOT of trees. Massive power outages across much of New England From the downed trees. That tree? Blew Exactly where we needed it !! Off the lawn and away from the house. Good ole mother nature.
  35. 2 points
    Cardboard Aided Design " excellent " , I always wondered what CAD stood for.
  36. 1 point
    I see Wheel Horse offered a 3 bar deck leveller as an upgrade for 42" and 48" decks with bagger attached. I am too cheap to buy one so I made it. I cut a bar from an old worn out leveller then welded up and filed the wear points. This is a standard 2 bar leveller. This is the leveller with the third bar just sitting loose. Here is the completed leveller. Here are the plans that I drew up to locate the third bar. 3 bar deck leveller.pdf This is a deck from the internet with the 3 bar leveller installed. I have not installed mine yet. I guess time will tell whether this was a useful upgrade or not. Cleat
  37. 1 point
    @Nh723 Check with @richmondred01 He may have an Eaton 1100 , and welcome to Look in the classifieds on the forum.
  38. 1 point
    hobby perhaps should be a side job that Pays. He does lovely work.
  39. 1 point
    You guys honestly do not need to have "engine rebuilding skills" to do it yourself. Its a matter of taking apart the engine in an organized way, aligning yourself with an honest machine shop (which can be tough these days) and letting them do the nitty gritty. Then you simply put it back together following a set of directions. These engines are very simple and very rewarding to have once complete. For those that have weak engines, start by decarboning the piston and head, cleaning and refresh the carb, and more importantly check the gap on the points. Should be about .018" gap. Any less and you loose power. Upward of .020 will offer a tad more power but you may start to hear a combustion rattle. For old smokeys, a base gasket, a set of rings, and a head gasket will often give the engine several more years before a complete rebuild is needed. In some cases I have found the rings were not staggered correct and they smoked heavily. Yep this is not the professional way to do it, but it does work every time, at least by cutting back the oil burning.
  40. 1 point
    Here's a picture of the cylinders. See #4 has some pretty decent rust damage, far from "cleaning up" with running it. I know this is half-assed and I might as well not waste my time, but I think I'll find a rocker shaft and a pushrod, then pop the head back on and see how it runs. I'm anticipating some blow by from that darned #4.
  41. 1 point
    Might want to re-consider selling that mid-mount blade - it is highly sought since they work so well for grading work on rock/dirt , ect....nice score , btw. Sarge
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    All of the above Alex... I had a K241 blowing like that but after rechecking head bolts most took a full turn or better to reseat them. Oil cannot come up the head bolt holes unless something is not right but oil or antiseize or preference choice of metal to metal lube should be used to help properly torque them. Head bolt torqueing is an art form in itself and the only way I learned it was trial and error and experience.
  44. 1 point
    Have them on my toy and love them.
  45. 1 point
    I double checked the breather to make sure but yeah I did assemble it correctly. Pretty sure its that I didn't tighten it after I ran it the first time so I will see if that fixes it.
  46. 1 point
    Bob try calling Perry automotive and ask for Al, he runs their machine shop and does a good job. 517-625-3127 they are located on m-52 on the south end of perry.
  47. 1 point
    Just my opinion, but the Big Show is about seeing friends and meeting new friends. I have only been there twice and there is precious little time as it is, I want to spend it with my fellow Horse-A-Holics!
  48. 1 point
    Not sure how you'd adapt that to one with an under-seat rockshaft... this style was for the older tractors..... Took me the last 15 minutes... but finally found a pic of mine mounted....
  49. 1 point
    Yup - used CAD last night to make a baffle to seal the lawn vac to the deck on the 16 Auto - works great . I like how you set up those bearings to the drive axles - nice to keep them out in the open and easily accessible as well as not building up mud to rot it out . Sarge
  50. 1 point
    Hey Sarge, weight wise it's going to be rather heavy, though the total weight will always be a guess as I have no way to weigh it.. The brakes have a had a bit of an upgrade, it did have drums on the front and an inbuilt brake on the rear swing arm... Now it's got discs on all four corners While waiting for the bearings to turn up, I thought I'd make a start on a sleeve to fit over the input shaft on the TB.. Not the best photo (I will get a better one) but here's the shaft in question. The only bit of steel bar I have which is long enough is made from very hard steel and looks like it has been used to hold a JCB bucket on... That sort of hardness! Anyway, I can make it in two parts and weld them together which would make it easier turning the tapered part half way down the shaft inside.. These two lumps I made years ago as pivot points for a dozer blade that was going to go on the 6x6.. A lot of turning to get them down to size! At least one is mostly done Woo Hoo... The bearings arrived Here's the TB to front end bearing mocked in place.. Best start getting the bearings mounted then.. First up something to bolt them to.. Well, a couple of somethings.. Bolted on. The black bit of steel across the lower bearing bolts is just to keep the bearing square to each other. You can just see where I welded on some tempoary bracing to the drive shaft to stop anything moving about withough the axle stand and other bits that were holding the bearings etc in place. If you flip the bearings over you can see the captive nuts that have been welded on... Don't think they are going anywhere Now the fun bit.. Making four somethings to bridge the gap between the back of the bearings and the chassis/frame.. Starting with a bit of CAD (cardboard aided design) work.. Which goes somewhere here.. Rather hard to hold it in place and take a farto at the same time! Roughly cut out of steel.. That looks better. Four of em made and tacked in place.. Bearings off.. Fully welded up... Almost.. It will be easier to weld the extreme top on bottoms where the brackets fit on the frame without the engine in and sump guard in place, so that can wait until stripdown time. Welds ground down, a nice curve at the back to clear the engine. And most importantly, there is still plenty of UJ clearance here.. And here And to finish off this update, a photo of the bearings etc quickly bolted on for this very photo.. The mounts were still very hot from welding and grinding so I didn't want the bearings sitting getting hot for too long..
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