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Time to restore and get the ugly green paint off

Loaded up my Mrs Rules, and our two twins(Suburban models 400&401) & headed over the mountain for a ride around West Point's Morgan's farm today. We were just in time to catch a few minutes with Ace, a little American miniature horse boarded there & his owner Cathy. Made for the perfect photo opportunity...capturing Ace, the mini real horse & two of our little Suburban Wheel-Horses checking each other out. And here's Ace taking a little bite out of the competition.

Fuel pump mounted. Battery box repaired. Drove it to the backyard for a few photos.

Seeing some other GT14 threads on here inspired me to get started on my next project tractor. It was neck and neck between this and a Lawn Ranger 8-speed project, but this one has been waiting it's turn longer, so I figured I should get started before I loose my motivation. It's hard to believe, but I've had this GT14 for almost 2 years already. It was going to be my project last summer, but other projects kept coming up and taking priority. My plans for this are to use it for a custom 1/2 scale tractor project. I don't want to reveal too much yet because to do what I have planned will push the limits of my skills, and probably my patience, so there is a risk that part won't pan out. Before getting into the customization work, my focus is on getting the base tractor healthy. I changed the fluids and got it running shortly after I first got it, but I'm almost embarrassed to admit it had been long enough ago I forgot the specifics of how it ran. Fortunately, the engine started this weekend remarkably quickly after an almost 2 year slumber. There seems to be no issues with the engine, but the transmission is another story, and where I could use some guidance. Going forward is no problem. It won't quite pull the front wheels off the ground, but it will snap your head back a bit if you quickly switch from reverse to forward. At half throttle it will spin both tires pushing against a fixed object. Reverse though, seems pretty weak. Reverse speed seems only about half what it should be, and it will just barely, even at high idle, pull itself up the slope in my back yard. On the fixed object test in reverse, it just stalls out. I tweaked the neutral adjustment to try to get more out of reverse, but it only improved things a little. It also seems to want to coast forward downhill pretty easily, although it is hard to push forward and reverse with the tow valve closed. I saw a suggestion on here to use the hyd lift to help tell if the pump is OK. I stood on the 3-point with a 50lb. weights in each hand (~300 lbs total) and it lifted me without any trouble. I plan to check pressures once I get a gauge to test with, but since my problem seems mostly isolated to reverse I don't think it's the pump or motor. My next step will be to go through the valves and see if something is bound or if there is a broken spring. I'll need to split the trans eventually to fix the parking brake pawl, but would like to rule out the "easy" stuff before I get to that point. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Dave

Just picked this up today, looks like the belt is maybe around 63 1/2" anybody have a number for the belt?

In November of 1997 I bought my first new vehicle. Today, that old friend no longer belongs to me. It always was a bit of an unusual truck. You don't see many of these 7700 lb gvw Fords out there with their bizarre 7-lug wheels. Heavier than an f-150, but lighter than a heavy duty 3/4. I guess it was more of a 5/8 ton. It was a 1997 F-250 light duty 4x4 with the 4.6L v8. I paid extra for the automatic transmission thinking my then fiancé (still my wife today ❤️) who couldn't drive a manual would drive it periodically. It was the first vehicle I ever drove with an automatic transmission. In 20 years, she probably drove the truck 5 times. the things we do for love! It could carry 2700 pounds and it did that and more many, many times. It probably has hauled over 100 separate wheel horses in its 8-ft bed. Until 2003 it was my daily driver until I grew tired of the 17 mpg it gave. Since then I added another car and only used the truck as a truck. So the last 50000 miles or so were usually loaded with something...rock, dirt, tractors, drywall, etc. or pulling a trailer. In reality, it's worked pretty hard when called upon for the last 14 years. It moved me and my belongings from Illinois to Missouri to Indiana and back to Illinois. A friend borrowed it to move his stuff and ended up making multiple back and forth trips to West Virginia. its its been registered and titled in three states all under the same name -mine. Never an accident and until a hailstorm last spring that claimed the headlamps and windshield it was still 100% factory. It's going to be weird not seeing it around anymore. Hopefully it doesn't get crushed soon as I think it has quite a bit of life left in it. I'm sure it's bound for an auction as the next part of its life. age was starting to take a toll and rust was making weird things happen. The engine and transmission are still sound but it had been decaying around the edges. The exhaust manifolds are both rusted, the 4x4 system only works 75% of the time, the AC is dead, and general rust was making it somewhat unreliable. I had good luck in the last 20 years with this truck, but it did make me pucker the time the brake line ruptured at a rail crossing with a train careening across the road. Had I not got that sucker to stop by throwing it in park and flooring the emergency brake the day would have ended differently. Another er time it wouldn't start after launching the boat with the trailer still in the water. That was fun. And there was that 10-degree winter night between Decatur and Springfield Illinois when the heater core blew leaving me with no heat and a puddle of coolant on the floorboards. Thank god Home Depot was still open that night so I could cut the heater hoses and isolate the heater core. That last 120 miles to mom and dads house was cold and my poor dog kept looking at me with confusion on why we were freezing with the windows open a crack (to keep from fogging up)instead of running the heat. But it was still a good truck for me. Some time ago it hit that valuation that made anything beyond regular maintenance an undesirable investment for me. Filling the 30 gallon tank increased its value by 25% The new battery this spring kind of broke the camel's back so I kept it through the summer to get some work done around the house and decided to sell it before the plate expired in November. No regrets letting it go, but it's going to be missed for a while. replacing it and my wife's car is a Honda Ridgeline that better suits our current needs. We're back to two vehicles which just makes more sense. I'm sure others have old trucks or their first cars with which they parted and it might be neat to hear some stories. Farewell old friend! steve

Getting close! Measured my axles from hub to hub and it is really close to stock gt14 width maybe even a hair wider. So hopefully if I can get my son over here this week, there may be an Eaton 1100 transplanted into Skittles soon.

It come with blade, tiller, disc, yard roller , plow, sprayer, seed broad caster

1960 Suburban Model 400... & 1961 Suburban Model 401.

Hello all, I have been a fan of Wheel Horse GT's since childhood (51 yrs old) and was looking for a GT to do some work on my little acre. I found this pristine looking 18HP, 46" hydraulic deck Work Horse with the Wheel Horse logo on it and am wondering if it is worth owning. I thought all Work Horse GT's were white/grey, but this one is all red? Any help appreciated. Also, it comes with the grader box.

It goes in the outer pulley and the tensioner is the knob on the bottom.

Drive belt 107740 (4L x 63.0" or 1/2" x 63") Garry

Thanks Richie. It will be torn down to the frame, transmission opened and inspection, new seals and anything else needed and new clothes. Still will be a worker.

Nice looking GT14! A custom GT14 project will certainly test all of your patience and skills. But they are such a nice platform once you get it all ironed out. Good of luck and keep us posted. p.s. I similarly seem to delay a couple years before starting the projects in earnest and due to work and weather delays it seems it routinely takes me 18-24 months to reach the goal. Usually another 6 months to work out issues that surface once you get it done. I must have already assembled and broke down my GT14 8 speed project a half dozen times and I am guessing I'll do so 2-3 more before it's finally done.

Could be worse and they call you

OH NO!! Now 2 guys are calling me skonk! @stevasaurus

Found a 1977 Ford diagram and it has a 30 amp fuse in that circuit. I know a mid 1980's 16hp Kohler model Jacobsen with single cylinder engine also has that fuse. You can get a 30 amp fuse holder and they have a 10 gauge wire designed to carry that type of load. Often used years ago to power the air conditioning circuit in autos. Most often fuse holders are damaged by heat because the terminal to fuse contacts oxidize and cause resistance. Good idea to coat the fuse and holder contacts with dielectric silicone grease to prevent that. Garry

Pictures from the show.

Tire biters united.

It was time to switch gears a bit. After working hard for many years to acquire a nice little collection I decided to let many of them go and enjoy something else with the family. Over the past couple of months the number of machines and attachments have been reduced considerably. With the funds I went out and grabbed another pony, that is red, still has 4 wheels, but seats all 4 in the family. Welcome to the Horse Barn a 1964 1/2 Mustang.

This is 4 wheel horses combined to make one. It has a raider rear end, with D axles and a D Differential, 520 swept forward axle and gear reduction steering, and a B&S cast iron 16hp. It has the frame stretched 6 inches in front of the motor. and it will handle a 60inch deck. I am going to put a ark 550 loader on it. It is a beast. It has a D hood and grill, and a early 80's dash. and it will also handle 16 rear tires. A friend of mine built this. I got it yesterday.

Interesting Craig. First I have heard that. I wonder if the first runs were black and they changed their mind and went to the grey from then on. Were the decals on the black ones the same red as most of the Work Horses?

I have recently had a few customers who painted their Work Horse gt's red instead of the original color. They used the american series but I was just thinking maybe doing the original red decals in black. Pretty decent looking GT by the way.

Trying to come up with something we could do here for a "central florida meet n greet". Just wouldnt want a couple guys to show up and stand around sweating. I have plenty of wheelhorse stuff to play with, chop on and weld. The cogs are turning.

I may have a few valve parts, as I think that is a hydrogear unit>

When a Sundstrand Hydro works well in one direction but not in the other it is probably an acceleration valve or the associated springs. The valve near the front of the transmission is the reverse valve. Check the manual and it has good detailed information on them.

Or skank. Sorry if that's inappropriate. Thanks though for the wisdom. I'm going to run it without that fuse I guess. If it starts a fire at least it's not a wheel horse

3pt and rear PTO you did well!!!

Not sure about the hour meter. Will be looking in person tomorrow afternoon. As for the price, if I can get it for less it probably isn't a bad deal?

Price isn't crazy...considering the included attachments. Will boil down to the way the equipment has been maintained. Is there an hour meter on this unit?

Hello all, I was at my boat club... friends diesel 1 ton dually broke a u joint half way up launch ramp. Nobody around but me and my 2wd 2.2 liter 4 cylinder auto. We blocked wheels on trailer and got his truck out of way... hooked up S10 and without even breaking sweat my Chevy got it up ramp and to safety. You guys always say if there arent pics it never happened! So..... Tony

No, just has some really great patina Alan.

One of those horses is the wrong color.

Just thought I'd pop on my '79 C-81 fitted with '62 finger bar.

A great way to spend sweetest day ...

I'd be IN for that !! Could advert on CL, Unclehenry's. Chuck a bunch o' stick-in-the-ground-style signs out on route 26. Maine Antique Power Assoc might be of some help and/ or be interested. Any Pulling clubs local to us?

i had a 312 that I thought I knew what I was doing, but it took me 3 times to get right follow directions eric j

Looks like a good time to take the breather off for a cleaning. And check the valve clearances while you are in there. Make sure you put the breather back together correctly. Check the manual....do not assume the PO put it together correctly.

The tube over the fuel line as you have it is correct. Someone put the filter there, not really a good idea. I don't remember if a fuel filter was ever put in the line originally or not. Someone mentioned hydraulic lifters, these do my have those. To adjust the valves one must pull the head and remove valves and grind end of valve for clearance. Oh, glad you got it running!

that should have started life as work horse GT1848, which had an 18 hp Briggs and Straton motor and a 48" deck. As you suspected it should have been gray or silver type paint on it. a lot of them have been repainted red over the years for one reason or another. It should have also had the 8.5x12 rear rims with 23x10.50x12 rear tires on it which makes most, but not all 42" decks hit the rear tires when the deck is raised. Something to check for. In my area of Penn's woods a seller would have to sit on it at that price for a while before a buyer came along. Your area maybe different. The tractor, if taken care of and the deck in decent shape should be worth something close to that. Us collectors almost always try to get one as cheap as possible when we buy becuase someday when we find another, and it may be the one that has to go down the road, aka most of us only have room for so many and weather we like it or not have to sell some, to make room for another one. So we want to at least break even when we do sell it off, if not make a little money on it to help support the habit lol. So depending on condition while I think it maybe a little on the high side to buy, but not out of reason, if I was selling it depending on condition again I might well be asking something close to that. As been said many times on here all boils down to what you are comfortable paying and what the seller is willing to let it go for. good luck eric j

Check around the valve cover gasket above that head - it may be leaking and getting blown down around the head/fins . Also , get up underneath and look for any signs of oil coming from the hydraulic pump - the engine flywheel fan can suck the oil into the engine's cooling fins when running . You basically have a K532 if the engine was rebuilt with that short block - the other external parts don't matter . Sarge

No, the grader box is included as well

An older S-10 with a 4.3 would have yanked that boat off the trailer!

Great pictures!!! I sure like that Cockshutt, a model "50" if I'm correct. A simple tear down & resto she could look/run like brand new again. I would love to have it in my collection.

Okay, Okay... I feel bad... look in pic... you can see trailer jack down. I was leaving club and just backed up and took quick pic. Boat and trailer is 19,000.... theres no chance in heck an S10 wouldnt poop itself silly if it even THOUGHT about moving it. Friends 1 ton dually Silverado Duramax pulled it in lo range no problem. It has to sit there overnight till his over width permits are legal tomorrow morning. Its 35' x 14' Sorry fellas 🤣🤣🤣 Tony And yes S10s are great little rides whether mini pickup or Blazer. I love the things and have had probably 6 or 7 Tony

Our twin Wheel-Horse Suburbans loaded & headed out for a ride today.

Vinegar doesn't get its due credit as a rust remover! It not as fast as muriatic or phosphoric but if you are soaking it sure is safer & far cheaper. Don't forget your pieces though! They might disappear if left too long!

Well said Jim. There are all sorts of worthless sites on the internet. We are blessed with conscientious Moderators who keep us straight and Karl has done a great job of building and maintaining the site for us. All of us benefit from the combined wisdom and humor of this group; wonderful.

Amen agreed in Jesus name

Just a suggestion since you have it apart. Check your shifter rails. If the three detents are the same depth I would scrounge up some later rails that have a deeper neutral detent. Install those as well as a 3/4" stop pin in lieu of the 11/16" that you'd have if all the detents were identical. Later on they went to rails with the detents going all the way around the rail. Those would work as well.