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Well, Emory wasn't happy when he couldn't ride with the other kids at the Big Show because his rigged gas tank started leaking. Found him one at the show and got it on when we got back. He has ridden the life out of it since!! He even took it for his cousins to ride in on the 4th of July. They didn't even know what a Wheel Horse was, but had a ball! Thought I'd share some pics of them riding around.

Nice sunny afternoon, so I decided to line up two of my tractors for a couple pictures. Featuring my 857 that mows the yard every week, and the recently restored 1276 sporting freshly painted rims and some new rubber. Carlisle SAWTOOTH 4.80-8 in the front, and Kenda K501 23x8.50-12 Super Turf in the rear. Enjoy.

Well, I found what we think is a 701 with the wrong hood and single engine pulleys at the show. Got it for $250 and am very pleased. Runs great with minimal smoke. Starts right off and is a blast to drive. I cleaned the paint with fine steel wool and a Brillo pad to get rid of that pink color! I repaired a square seat pan, put on a belt guard, and fabbed up a bar to mount a set of lights I bought from Ron Greco. I also bought the tiller at the show and had to hook it up just for grins! I might paint the both this winter, but kind of like the look of the 701, even though it seems to be an older repaint. You can see Emory with his lawn ranger in the back of one of the shots, he hasn't let it rest since we got home and I put a good gas tank on it!

The Suburban that I started last December is almost done. Just some final "tweeking" to the engine. I was told that the engine did run and I took them at their word (my bad). Didn't have any spark. Tore the front end off and found a real mess. Started to fix that problem (coil, condenser, wiring) and got to wondering....... Pulled the head (looks to have been rebuilt right before what ever it was mounted on broke) got new head bolts, changing a couple of wires, adding a "kill switch". Not sure how much time I am going to get to finish it. We are on "baby watch" for grandsons #5 and #6. Our daughter is having twin boys. My wife got real tired of me crawling around on the garage floor and then complaining that my knees hurt all the time so so bought me the handy machine the Suburban is sitting on (works great)

3 big bowls? I'm hoping that was for 3 people. I was pretty much at the end of the line for ice cream, and since they couldn't seem to get rid of the strawberry ice cream, I asked for a second bowl (they were melting into milkshake consistency by this time) and I was told no.

Just purchased my first Wheel Horse yesterday. I'd like to restore it to its original glory. I'm sure there is plenty of parts information out there. Any help you guys could provide would be great. The I have says C-120 on the side but the previous owner says it's a c-100. It does not have a data tag anywhere that I can find. Is there any distinguishing features I should look for to help determining exactly what year/model it is.

Some day, your son will put that picture back on Red Square and say, "this is how I grew up playing with horses".

This place is absolutely fantastic, and I love reading shared stories like this. You look real good in that shirt Jim.

3 Big bowls at the ice cream social before my wife checked radar, panicked, and wanted to go! Since we were hit by a tornado about 6 years back, she is scared of storms!

If that ain't calendar material , I don't know WHAT IS

I wouldn't use a BFH on this pin....that'll just flare it out. Best way I've found... Sawzall it on both sides and get the slot hitch off first....cut flush with the trans case. Then, center drill a 5/8 hole at least 1" deep into both ends (pin is 3/4"). Stick a 1/2" dia drift pin into the 5/8" hole and WHACK it a few times. It should break free, then drive it thru. When done, got to TSC and buy a 3/4" pin with pull handle on it...10 bux or so.

Got if from discountramps.com. It's a Black Widow xtra wide ATV lift table. Air/hyd pump requires 90 psi of air. 47"w x 78"L. It lifts from 6 3/4 to 33 1/2 Made my life a LOT easier

Glad to see the only Deere in your yard is concrete and not green!

Unless you plan to hook a rototiller to it you will probably never need low range. As long as the rest of the transaxle works properly I wouldn't be too scared of it only having high range; until 1967 that is all that any of them had. The wheel weights add some value, but I would use the Hi/Lo issue as a bargaining point to try for a lower price.

My guess... You have a really pissied off tooth fairy (pun intended) lurking about. WOW.. have never seen disintegration quite like that. I have parts for this, or a a good 4-speed trans from a B-80 to replace it. email to: daveoman@windstream.net

I'm constantly amazed at how small they are! And still have a heavy cast iron front axle, heavy gauge frame and rugged transaxle! Hope to have time to get mine running...

No trophy until you also get the steering wheel off and both hubs. The trifecta of frustrating Wheel Horse projects....

The Swazall trick worked. Cut the pin in two places, removed the hitch and was able to drive the pin pieces out with no trouble. Thanks all

Just remember one thing - that trans case is cast , and it can/will break if you hit it too hard . I usually heat the area around the pin one side at a time and apply paraffin canning wax , let it cool a bit and repeat several times . That wax will be drawn into the parts as they cool and will penetrate as good or better than any chemical made - and is safe to eat to boot . Best thing I've found for cast iron parts that are stuck , it's an old machinist's trick . You could also search out Ed's Red if you have the patience to wait for it to soak , that formula works better than anything in a can and you can make it yourself . Some have also drilled each half of the case and installed grease zerks to help break that shaft loose . I use a rolled piece of crocus cloth on a die grinder 1/4" shaft to polish and ream all of mine after they are removed to prevent it happening again . Sarge

Not uncommon for the friction material to stick to the drive plate. Don't know why unless it is periods of high humidity and lack of use allowing a bit of rust to develop. There is a large farm tractor next to me that gets parked with a stick of wood holding the clutch pedal down when not used. Garry

http://www.discountramps.com/atv-lift/p/BW-1500AO-V2/

Not a problem at all Jim! This is what makes our hobby great - the people! Most of us have memories of our youth and family using these great old tractors. That is what makes this hobby what it is and ties us together like family. In a sense we are all one big Red Square family!

A RS member on the forum stated he was going to make a pair of rear axles for his tractor. I PM'ed him to ask if he could make a custom pair to accommodate duals. He not only purchased the steel, the machining and the heat-treating, but packed them and paid to ship them to me, {all without even knowing me} and offered, "If I liked them I could send him the payment, and if I didn't, I could simply return them." At about 1/3rd or 1/2 of retail I gladly paid and am very happy with them. Members like this gentleman are what makes RS one of the best Wheel Horse sites that there is. My thanks to all members like this.

Tires seem to be a hot topic on this forum so I just wanted to share what I found at the big show. 16 7.50 8. OTR Lawn Trac 4 ply. They are a little over 7" wide and seem really nice. Have them mounted on the larger 520 front wheels. The turfs in the pic are Carlisle of the same size. They are the same width but the OTRs are a bit taller. I couldn't be happier with them. These are the original Carlisles that were on These are compared to the 16 6.50 I have on now

Pictures below are of the D200 I recently purchased and is the one I mentioned in a previous post where I asked about the ID tag. What is the deal with the tires? Were these actually used or did someone just use them as replacements? Is there a benefit to using these instead of the normal tires that came on these. I have an 1973 18 automatic and those tires are bigger and look more like normal turf tires. Price was $500. Was that a fair price?

Not all! Seems like a few have gone to @dells68 @TravelinJavelin and @T-Mo have snagged some nice ones lately. I am about to go from an acquisition mode to a get off your keister and start restoring mode shortly. I have enough projects to keep me going for a few years.

Thanks Ed, still have a little work to do on it, need to get the hood ornament mounted, touch up the underside of the hood, figure out why it is jerky in reverse, and get the new carb straightened out. But other than that, pretry much done!

That 1276 is SWEEET

I would like to thank Wheel Horse for the Trophy. With out them none of this would have been needed and to everyone on the Forum who made the pin removal possible

Ok, here are some pics after having the tires mounted, I think it is a pretty good option to match the original color. Nice thing is that the paint is easy to spray, dries fast compared to Rustoleum, and tire mounting did not damage the finish at all. Only $3.49 a can at your local ACE Hardware.

Emory is looking good on there, giving that right hand a workout too!

Considering what you found inside a trophy is the least we can do for you!

Looks like a couple happy kids. Great pictures. I have one in my shed almost identical to that one. Mines a 64. Ordered some front tires for it so hopefully it will be on all four soon. Gotta get it running too.

I guess it is the easy ride seat that is the problem The big spring is in the way. i tried to stuff a fan in several ways no luck wound up with a little 4" box fan (like they use in cooling computers...not very powerful. If any one has got the fullsized fan and Easy ride PLEASE take picture

Bob -1 hitch pin - 0

While rewiring my 1981 C125, I often use my 1978 C141 for reference. When I peered under the rectifier a few weeks ago I saw the beginnings of the dreaded melted connector. While many of you may be right that a transistor inside the rectifier may be failing, another thing to consider is the connectors may be starting to fail and are going high resistance which will ultimately lead to a runaway thermal condition (aka a fire in the worse conditions) and an open circuit. I did check out the ebay rectifiers but have not done anything yet-just getting lazy I guess.

That's a secret between me and the trashman. Sometimes she looks over my shoulder Item# BW-1500AO-V2 I

Tried this method and it works. I recommend driving the pin from the thin side of the transmission toward the thick side. Reduces the chances of breakage.

Ed, Give me a little time to get out to the shop. I may have some that were left over from the 416-H rebuild. If I have extras, I'll send them to you, otherwise I will try to find the dimensions and where I got them. I do remember it was a marine supply company but I don't remember the name. Have to do some research... Okay, here you go. That didn't take long. Inside diameter is 3/8". Is this what you need? Available from the link below. I think they are packaged 10 to a bag. PM me and I can send you a couple. Bob http://shop.mariner-sails.com/Nyliner-3-8-Inch-Id-Rudder-Pin-HC-8061011.htm

Found this one on Craigslist. As you guys know, the 84s with 3 point are getting harder and harder to find. This tractor is certainly not a show tractor, but it should make a good worker. The deck is solid and sounds o.k., but I'm not going to mow with this one. Over the years, I have purchased 5 C195s--one each in Missouri, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana, and Oklahoma. My wife says I have gone far enough, both figuratively and literally!

Grew up with a Ford AA Doodlebug that we always propped the clutch down with a stick for that reason. Sure wish we had a video of that, sounds like a fun ride!

The friction disc does extend past the plate by 1/2" but doesn't require any trimming.

You gonna tell us where you got the lift table, or do we have to beg? LOL! Randy

Appears to be a 91-20KS02 1979 D Series Garden Tractor D-200 Automatic Kohler K532S-53105A 20 Sundstrand 90-1173, Mark.

I have replaced several PTO's with this JD B series disc.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/B2354R-One-Clutch-Disc-Facing-Repl-For-John-Deere-Tractor-B-50-520-530/320933399129?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 If you have a table sander it makes things easier,, a little JB-Weld and a press is all it takes to make your PTO as good as new.

A point I have made before. Lot of good people on here and I have only met two of them. Spoken to many and hope to make it to the show to personally thank many of them for the help and advice/parts/things I have got from them over the years. This place rocks.

Yes we do... Most of our wife's think we're just a bunch of crazy guys who buy junk old red tractors . In reality we're a bunch of guys that are willing and ready to help out any Horseoholic in time of need even though many of us have never met . RULES !!!

My 1848 clutch was worn to the rivets and had started to score the clutch face. My dealer sold the clutch embossed onto the pressure plate and it wasn't cheap. I found an nos clutch, drilled the old rivets out and jb welded the new clutch on the old plate. Also had my friend machine the clutch face down.