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Anybody else see the Wheel Horse Fire Engine for sale on ? Don't want to repost somebody else's pics here. It's near Pittsburgh PA

I had to get an MRI this morning about 45 minutes south of me. On the way back my dad wanted to stop by the tractor salvage yard we occasionally go to so he could get a small part for his lawnmower. While I was walking into the shop I noticed a nice set of 6-12 ags on wheels. When the owner said 50 bucks , I asked if he took credit card. Hard to find these used and in good condition. They will be for my Suburban project.

That is the optional Foot Warmer, on a very cold day you want those tootsies nice and warm.

Hello all, So I saw this tractor for sale... guy did half decent job swapping a Kawasaki JD motor in. BUT... check out the exhaust! Thats the best the guy could do? OMG! LMAO! Tony

you can't remember where they are. Old age!!! There was a question in the implement section asking for some pictures of a tiller mounted. I know mine is.... but where is it. I know it isn't in the shop, but she is usually down in the barn so i went down to snap a couple of pictures . Turns out she wasn't there she is up in the storage shed (I hope) but that is to far to hike in the wet snow today...besides it is packed tight and getting a picture would be hard.

Sold one of of my green lawn tractors and had enough left over after buying a model train I wanted, that I went out and bought this nice Commando 8, fully loaded with lights, cig lighter, nice rear discharge mower deck(not shown), original WH marked tires and a working slot hitch. He has the moldboard plow for it and he set it aside and I will pick it up once I have some more funds in my wallet. Its been awhile since I had a WH in the stable. I want to do some special autism touches to it. The paint and decals are super nice, except for the top of the hood and fender pan. I hate to loose the original decals and nice dealer decals in a full repaint. Thinking of having a decal made to cover the top of the hood in the autism rainbow jigsaw colors with "Autism Acceptance" in either yellow or white lettering in the middle of the top of the hood. Mike

It is possible that he is not pulling hard enough on the axle to pull it out...but if one axle is out a little, the other one can move in a little farther and give the impression that both are messed up. The 2 axles butt into each other in the differential and the snap ring keeps the axles from pulling out...that is your 1/8" of play. Pull one axle out 3/4" and the other one has nothing to butt into anymore and will have a little more slop. Either way, you have to open the trans to fix it. Drain the trans, remove the shifter, take the trans off the horse and place the input shaft side "down"...brake shaft side "up". Open the case and lift off the deeper side...you can now pull out the differential. There is no need to take out any gears, unless you want to clean out the trans. Notice that you are looking at the nuts on the bolts that hold the differential together...you want to be looking at the nuts again when you put the differential back into the trans case. Check for lose hubs first...like was said above.

I was looking for my Pawpaws GT-14's I know it's a long shot but they were sold at his estate sale back in 2011 in North Carolina after he passed. I've shown a picture of what they looked like, they're probably restored. Like I said, it's probably nearly impossible to find them but hey I tried

200 is fair price. heck the hoods alone can go up to 100 bucks so do the plows and decks 100 each depending condition. check engine for compression if it has compression it will run. if the crank free spins with no resistance then its blown up. still good buy either way

Hi Paul...the roll pin was 1/4" x 1 1/2". That is what they used on the early trans axles...those were 1" axles. You would have 1/4" sticking out on each side of the axle. You have 1 1/8" axles...I would think that the 1/4" x 1 1/12" roll pins would do their magic and not let an axle gear past them. I think that the 11 5/8" axle would be OK also. The roll pin would be better. Maybe grind a slight flat spot on the end of the axle, so the drill does not slide on you.

Step 1: Take some pictures of it, both sides and rear to front . . . then post them here, we'll be able to tell you exactly what model it is then; also post any numbers you see on the side decals (that's the model), . . . the serial number is on a small metal-looking tag usually on the dash tower or the seat pan. Does your tractor run OK, and how does it sound when you change engine speed ? All your manuals and Operating booklets are available here as a free download, you can also see pictures of all Wheel Horse models in the pictures section, listed by year. ** Tires are an easy fix, easy to remove and put on the wheels (the heavy metal in center of tire), and you can get the (black rubber) tires and the mounting of the tire to the wheels done at many places (like Discount Tire = lowest prices usually). Welcome to Red Square

Did he also rig the blade. How much heat does it take before blowing out the tire?

I am starting to wonder if he has a loose hub and it is moving in and out on the axle. I would think that a movement of 3/4" would drop the gear and keep coming out.

So I got tired of the wife complaining about the lack of TP in the bathroom so I took it upon myself to make something that will help alleviate the issue. She didn't even complain about the fact that it is pipe fittings.

Aldon I was thinking more on the year then the money. And yes I would post it if I didn't get it. This 702 ? Was never Advertised he mentioned he had another tractor in his basement and if I wanted it he would give me a package deal. I'll probably go and get it also. I'm a sucker for wheel horse's.

the parts alone are worth exponentially more than asking price abeit pabkage deal. I see meny of these questions whch should be non-questions. 200dollars. Anything beyond a few parts is gravy or icing o the cake. Either buy it or let the forum know where to do so.

hoods are same for 62 and 63. in 64 they were longer for the 854

looking where lift handle goes and the tank its a 753 or something else more pics would be easier to id

not a 701 although it looks to have a 701 gas can. The 701 has a solid grill with no slats, like the nut roasters, other indicators would be the 701 has a double belt guard and a double pully on the starter generator and engine. The Seatpan is also square, and could be red or white, the one in the picture is from an early 60's tractor. Good luck with whatever it is but looks like a mutt

Just when you think you have seen everything, this pops up. Once it has been seen it can't be unseen!

Cool looking set-up. I like it.

Actually that one has a theft prevention system installed. I put a Magnum 12 into a C-81. Wound up with the choke working backwards. Never put a label on the dash, so any self respecting thief will push the choke lever all the way up and she won't start cause that is run position

@curtishorsemanship to The gang here has made many a repairs from afar, so let us help you too!

Breednuts, A vender here ,Wheelhorseman1000,has everything you need to mount your tiller.He has new first quality parts.I and many here have bought from him.Just scroll down to the vender section and check out all he has to offer.Quite a selection of hard to find parts.JAinVA

If you, or a friend or relative aren't intimidated by mechanical things then this is going to be easier than you think. We have lots of good knowledgeable members who can walk you through repairs that may be needed. As Glen said, post some pictures and a little more information about the thins that do and don't work well and we will go from there.

It is hard to see anything in those pictures...you opened the transmission upside down. Being a 1054, if you have the correct transmission (and I think you do)...it is a Wheel Horse #5047. This means that you do not have spider gears in the differential...you have the bevel gear differential. This was Wheel Horse's more heavy duty transmission when compared to the #5025 (which had 4 spider gears). If you can turn one of the axles (by hand), and the other axle moves in the opposite direction, your bevel gear differential should be OK. I'm thinking, since you were moving snow, you were shifting fast enough between reverse and 2nd or 3rd gear and the fork gears are such that you are in 2 gears at once. This was common in these early transmissions. If you had opened the transmission from the other side, we could probably be able to see if that is the case. The first thing to do...loosen the lock nut and back out the 1/8" set screw so you can pull out the shifter. Then you can take out all the other gears. You will need to rebuild the transmission in the shallow side case anyway. Keep an eye out for 2 ball bearings 1/4". They are the detente balls, that go on each side of a spring with a stop in it, that go between your shift rails. No doubt, those 2 balls are loose in your transmission now that you took off the shallow side of the case. While the link above will show you a few things with pictures, the videos that will help more are in this link. Both links show transmissions that are a little different to yours, but they are basically the same. Your differential is different from the differential in either of these links. Your brake shaft comes out a different hole in the case in the link below. Take it all apart and clean it, I use diesel fuel in a paint tray if you do not have a parts cleaner. Take pictures of all the gears so we can see if something wrong stands out. Below is a good copy of the Transmission Manual for all Wheel Horse Manual Transmissions. You want to read Section II for your transmission. BTW...Welcome to Red Square.

Hi all, I recently purchased a 1964 Wheel Horse 1054 and have been fixing it up. The tractor was working great but then crapped out while plowing snow. Runs in neutral but when I shift into gear the motor is stressed and kills; it will go in reverse. When up on a jack and drive belt off the wheels move freely and I can shift and wheels and flywheel move easily in unison. Once I put drive belt on and run tractor while on jack the tractor will not shift, just grinds gears and then motor cuts out. The gears look to be in pretty good shape. Any ideas?

That looks like very fresh grind on the shown gear. Like SHYNON said, take out all the gears. Look everything over and show us some pictures. people here like to help Terry

I saw those, but don't have the best saws-all (it's a HF one) and couldn't justify a quality one for this project. I'm already into this room for too much time and money but it turned how my wife wanted so that's all that really matters. Have to keep the pregnant lady happy :). Happy wife happy life.

That may be a standard NPT size. I don't know for sure. If it is you could get a pipe plug and drill and tap it for the fitting.

Don't feel bad or foolish. Good topic with good information for future reference. Something always to be learned.

Other than the young lady swinging the hammer, I'm assuming this guy did the rest of the work? That's a lot of work. Been there. Looks like you did a fine job.

I've been in Scott's shop. and while amazing, it has the one flaw that most of ours have big or small. Once you fill it up and have to work on one you have to take it outside or roll a few outside, thankfully most have wheels. Scott, you have plenty of room east to extend, I'm just sayin' .

For years WH used roll pins to secure the axles.. then changed to snap rings. Roll pins seem to me to be more secure...never had one of those fail but have had some snap ring issues. Agree if there is a bur from teh snap ring wearing the axle it may take a lot of effort to pull it out all teh way.

Here is an image of the parts inside the differential. The snap rings are labeled "72", and the red arrows indicate where they are placed inside the assembly. They keep the axle from pulling out (in the direction of the blue arrow) by being placed on the inside of gear 70. If you are getting 3/4" movement (in the direction of the blue arrow) without the axle pulling completely out, I think that you've got more going on than just snap rings.

Best forum on the web right here. These guys have helped me more times than I can count with problems I ran into when I first got my 1277. Couldn't ask for a better group and proud to call myself a member here. When your decals come in and you get them put on...as always

I see the front axle in the second pic. That appears to be a 702 axle. The tanks on my 702's are like the photos below. The face plate that holds amp gauge, choke cable and throttle cable is a separate piece that screws on. And the hood tower appears to be a 63 to me. The hood definitely looks like a 702. Also if that's the gas tank sticking up in front of the hood on the first picture with the divets in it. I would say that would probably be a two piece like a 63 tanks. But hope this helps and I would say 200 is definitely worth the parts. So I'd go for it even if it's a mix and match. Extra parts on hand is always good for a horse trade or future projects!!!

likely a 42" deck. I believe they measure out to 44". Cleat

Yeh, I saw that too. Someone did a lot of work to create it, probably for their kid. If I had a kid young enough, I'd consider buying it for them. Listing says it runs ok, and the price isn't too high. Maybe we will see someone's youngster riding it around at the big show. Jim

Sorry for your loss... You are at the right site - these guys can walk you through everything to get your tractor back up and running...

@hermitman and @wallfish I found this today when I was searching for the scoop I h seen a couple of years ago. Sorry for the colors. I would really like to have a scoop but I don't weld so I just dream . I hope you can see these.

I agree with Steve , The 5025"s and 5053's that I've built all came with the roll pins on the axles. Simple, but proven Durable..

Happy Birthday @daveoman1966 we are all glad you were born,

1-1/4" pipe has a 1.660" OD. A tap drill is 1-1/2" for tapered pipe threads and 1-33/64" for straight threads. That should be very close to the thread ID. 1-1/2" pipe has a 1.900" OD. A tap drill is 1-47/64" for tapered pipe threads and 1-3/4" for straight threads. That should be very close to the thread ID. Both sizes have 11.5 threads per inch. Garry

Lets try to figure this out. When you turn the key does the engine turn over? If it turns over then try spraying carb cleaner in the carb...any sputtering???

The best thing is you can hang one roll one way and the other the opposite way, thus never having to wonder which is the right way.

Update..... knocked locking ring loose and it turned out by hand. I really felt like I had a dumb a&$ moment. Why didn't I try that in the first place. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.

Thank you all for your help! If anyone is getting gas to their carb, but not into their carb, you can bet it's a stuck needle valve. Hope that can help other people too!

I'm glad that some people have been interested in this thread. I think that a lot of us have been interested in these engines for a while, and the people that go ahead and do it seem to fall into two categories - no problems at all, or catastrophic failure reasonably early on. I think if I was to do it again, I would buy an engine with the most reputable warranty I could find, and get it up and running in the tractor as quickly as possible to maximize the warranty period. The engine I bought was sold without warranty, but I paid about a third of the current ebay prices as well. All up, (including the engine purchase price, the straight shaft crankshaft, gaskets, the pieces I replaced, plus the exhaust pieces, electric fuel pump and consumables), I have jus under $500 in this thing. I could have rebuilt a K341 for that and probably had a better tractor in the end. It has been interesting though, and I have learnt a bit. I've been an auto mechanic my whole life but have really not had too much to do with diesels. The tractor performs pretty well with the swap. It mowed well with a 48" deck. I did discover that the Eaton 7 wasn't as strong as I had thought. It worked fine while mowing, but when I went to drag a plug aerator around (with 200lbs of sandbags on it!), the tranny didn't really want to know. I swapped in an Eaton 1100 that I had earmarked for my 520H, and so far the tractor has taken everything I have thrown at it. Now the tractor has the hydraulic lift, so selling the electric lift kit may help fill in a little bit of the money pit that I have dug. The punch list at this stage is reasonably small, fit a glow-plug for easier starting in the cold, and when I find an air filter that I like I will move that back under the hood (probably above the starter motor). Suppose I need to splash some paint on the hood and seat pan as well at some stage.