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It is glorious to get a 50 degree day here in the Adirondacks in mid January! After a implement run with fast88pu and talking tractors for a bit I managed to get some things done. I loath the lawn and garden batteries and their sub par quality. I spent a few hours researching car batteries and dimensions and decided to give the 26R a try. Well it's sung but perfect fit in the GT14. Yet another reason I prefer this size tractor. Supposedly good for 5 years. 3 times the cost of the last couple L&G's I bought. So it's a bargain on top of the fact that I should not have as many opportunities to go out to start my tractors and have the battery be failing. Irksome. Also assembled my parts washer and 1 ton folding crane jack that a snagged yesterday at HF. Looking forward to spring and more of these nice days.

Here's a condo I found built with seperate bedrooms.

Afternoon/evening all it would appear that somehow I have an RJ 35 on my bench Unfortunately it isn't actually mine but belongs to a chap you all know and love.. Neil.. Yep the very same Neil who happens to be a moderator around these parts.. So why is Neil's RJ on my bench? Well, Neil brought it up for Nigel in the workshop next door to do a bit of work on it, get it running, driving and maybe more.. I offered to help and it so happened that I had some space on the bench.. It's also nice to have a break from the quad for a while as I've missed working on Wheel Horses It didn't take long to get the belt guard and hood off.. The first job was to have a look at the engine, it has good compression and after a bit of plug and plug lead cleaning it has a spark I expect with a temporary gas tank fitted and a bit of move juice the engine should come to life.. Something to look forward to on Monday The engine pulley is not quite in the right place on the shaft, it should be closer to the engine.. Me thinks the pulley needs to turn a little on the shaft as well.. Having not worked on an RJ or any really early Wheel Horses before this er.. brassy bit on the back of the pulley confused me for quite a while until I worked out it's the reverse er.. cog In fact the whole drive belt system confused me for a while until I disconnected this spring and then everything fell into place.. Speaking of belts, does anyone know what part number/size the larger rear drive belt should be? I need to fit this nice new throttle cable.. But has anyone a photo of the clip/small bracket thingy that holds the cable outer sleeve to the carb please? That's all for now folks, more action as it happens..

Pulled shroud off 314 that sat for around a year... look at how nice a job Mr. Mouse did building a condo for him and his wife... Freakin Mice.... Kill 'em all and Let God sort 'em out... Tony 314mousenest

Just saw this advertised, see photos in a post below. I thought that a member might want the crazy thing.

You mean... "multi-family" mousing.

Multi-family "hourseing"...

Happy you got it figured out. Even happier that you let us know what the problem was. Great reference for future trouble shooters.

I got it!!! Turned out to be a stuck needle valve!!!

The simplest way to modify the ignition would be to add a relay to the M ignition wire. The relay would normally ground the ignition to shut the engine off. With the original battery ignition switch in the run position it would open the relay contacts and allow the engine to run. Doing it this way makes use of the original safety switches that control the ignition as they are presently wired. A very common relay Garry

Buy this C-105 and use the blade...I'm guessing you'd get your wish!!!

in my opinion 450 for a non running common garden tractor with few attachments is way over priced,like cleat said it depends on the mower deck,and if the tractor is in that shape you can bet the deck is worse,259 was a very fair price and I wouldn't go over that,if that onan has blown valve seats your in for a lot of money,look for a machine that runs,or if you get a non runner for cheap

Nobody hurt and no structural damage except small piece of tin on a lean to. About about 150 ft behind my house.

Just a FYI - http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/jis-japanese-industrial-standard/view-all-products.html I don't want to derail a thread , but this is a good bit of info for anyone who turns a wrench - or in this case , a screwdriver . I learned the hard way working on bikes and Japanese trucks , like my old '77 Land Cruiser - if you don't use the right tool you'll destroy the fastener heads . I use my Vessel drivers pretty much every day - including on Philips screws since they will bite much more aggressively and are not designed to "cam out" . Those drivers will exceed the fastener's strength rating , so be aware of that . You can read about the differences in standards between JIS and common US market Philips until your eyes bleed , but there is a huge difference in tool performance . Trust me , if you haven't tried these things - you really need to at least once , that's all it takes . I give the Paraffin wax one shot , then notch the pipe nearly all the way through with either a hacksaw blade or a sawzall and crush it with a big pair of Chanellock pliers or vise-grips . I hate heating into the head/block area too much as it can seriously crack a block . Sarge

Hi tractor friends. Hope everyone had a good Christmas and are doing well. Ken and I have decided to have the Mentone Garden Tractor Show & Swap meet on a new date this year. As most of you know we've had nothing but bad luck with trying to figure out Mother Nature and have been rained out the last four or more times. This year we're going to have it in collaboration with Mentone Egg Festival. The tractor show and swap meet will be on Friday June 2nd and Saturday June 3rd. Anyone wanting to set up and sell can come set up on Thursday June 1st If desired. As usual there will be a $5 per day selling fee to help cover the costs. Also we would love if we could get people to bring their garden tractors to show. We're hoping to set up an area just for them to be shown off! If anyone has any questions Ken can be reached at 574-607-7694 and I can be reached at 513-319-3640. The Show and Swap Meet will be just north of Mentone Indiana on highway 19 Thanks and hope to see everyone there! note: I apologize the attachment was last year's Egg Festival Because they have not posted this year's yet. Egg Festival - Mentone Chamber of Commerce The Mentone Egg Festival for 2016 will be held June 2nd, 3rd, and 4th... Mark it down on your calendars! The three-day event features entertainment, games, food, a parade in the downtown area, a play area for kids, and a huge car, truck, motorcycle &… MENTONEEGGCITY.COM

When we were finishing up construction of our new home four years ago the only room that wasn't completed was the laundry room. My wife hadn't decided what she wanted in the way of cabines and I was ready to take a break after nearly two years of building. At the time our property was cleared I had all of the oak trees taken to a saw mill, much of the lumber was used at our church for some renovations and the rest has been waiting patiently for me to get off my butt. This is one of seven loads of logs. For the past year I have been making doors, face frames and cabinet boxes as time allowed. When you are gluing up door panels you need lots of clamps! Good quality tools help too. My wife picked out this detail with flush doors wrapped by half round moldings. Making and fitting the moldings is VERY time consuming. This morning a couple of good friends came over and we hung the upper cabinets, the base cabinets are being built now. By spring I should be finished with this little "Honey Do". Then I will find out what she has up her sleeve for me to do next.

I guess I can die now, there is nothing else to see.......my oh my

I hope it lasts the whole 5 years for ya...but only time will tell if it was a good deal or not. I have swore off buying those cheapie Wal-Mart batteries myself. Mike.....

Just so you know... see "linking to other sites" here. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/guidelines/

All I can say is "what the what ". Danger Will Robinson Danger.

That one has been on C/L for about a year my thoughts are if you can't hear it run and the deck is not perfect it is not worth more than you already offered him. Too many possibilities for things to be wrong.

Glad you and your family are ok, Jay. That was too close for comfort.

IMHO... you should reinforce the corners or they will just crack again. I use 1/4" 2x2 angle iron, drilled and mounted with 3/8 bolts and nylok nuts. If you opt this method, do one side at a time.

Unless he has had it sitting on the trailer for two years my guess would be those are old pictures and it is deteriorated further by now. You need to bring a set of jumper cables, starter fluid and an open mind and go see it. As it has been outdoors for two years, isn't running, don't know the condition of the transaxle and know it will need a LOT of love I would be hard pressed to offer more than $ 250.

About a year ago I bought an 18hp Kohler Command and I had a raider 12 that needed an engine so I put the two together and the thing is a beast. Well the 18hp never ran like it did from the factory, just wasn't quite right. And trust me I did everything to it and nothing fixed it. Well about 2 weeks ago I got a new 27hp Kohler Command for $250! Was defective from the factory and wouldn't run. So I decided the 27hp would be a good swap for the 18hp. So I did. All that was wrong with the 27 was the oil pressure sensor was bad.

so when i got the 701 guy told me frame is busted. so tonight i talked to my cousins fiance. asked him if he could weld it up for me. so i took it over there pulled the trans out and found a badly broken trans mount plate. so he told me that best thing to do is weld it up and then put the brace plates back on that one of the previous owners made. and thats what we did. we used some wood vises to pull the plate back together.

I got my 520HC almost a year ago and it had a used battery in it. I put a battery tender on it and I keep it plugged in all the time when not in use. I never have any problems starting it no matter how cold it is. I also put a new lawn and garden battery and battery tender in my Commando 8, my 876, and my C120. I always keep them plugged in and never have any problems starting them. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=battery+tender+junior&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abattery+tender+junior&ajr=0 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR6.TRC2.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=battery+tender+junior&_sacat=0

The L&G battery (400CA)I bought from AutoZone in 2011/12 is still turning over the 520H in 2017, it may go bad tomorrow but I believe I got got my $ worth from that little battery, Jeff.

I would have to check, but I doubt that OSHA has any regulations on how high you should be able to lift a log prior to encountering an un-shielded buzz saw! However, the fact that you would be doing so while stepping over a snow blade might make this a questionable practice. I guess the hard hat strapped to the front is an attempt at safety!

I realized that. I figured they might give him some ideas / concepts. Perhaps not. If not, oh well...just trying to help out since I had just looked at those the other day...

Welcome to @Richard Stoots, This photo should give you the needed information.

Glad to hear you made out ok, Jay!

On the brighter side... looking like lots of seat time there.

Nice Job! Wow do they look good! Next time may want to try Discount Tire - They did all 4 of mine - removal and replace with new tubes / tires for $12/tire...Worth every penny.

Mice can do a lot of damage to electrical systems and squirrels too.I don't drive as much as I used to and I let my F350 sit for an extended time.A mama squirrel had three little ones in the engine bay. By the time I discovered it they had done $1500 in damage to the wiring harness.I was really happy I had kept comp insurance on it.

Have had mine for about 35 years now. Bought it when I was build racing engines, had to press off rods from piston had ten sets of V8 rods machine shop wanted $3 a rod so I went out bought 20ton press for $225 and still have it. Don't use it that much any more but when I need it I'm glad I still have it, and a lot of people are happy I have it too mostly on the weekends.

I have had to cut a few out myself. When I get the stub out, I run a pipe tap into the exhaust port to clean up the threads. A "glob" of grease on the pipe tap will catch all the cuttings (if there are any).

After hearing 953 fans testimonial and yours ,I am getting worried.My left leg is numb and weak. I can't wait to talk to doctor on Monday and get MRI on Tuesday. I don't know what it's going to take to fix this but I have good medical ( thank God) because I am employed at a school system and paid sick leave. I am grateful to have that job and my heart goes out to all the people who have it rougher than me. I will keep you guys in my thoughts and prayers that you find relief. But in the meantime, I have been working in the garage today switching between sitting and standing. The weather is nice and warm enough to do some painting. I finished disassembling the trans and gave it a good cleaning with the wire cup and cleansed it in the parts washer. I left the shift forks in since I felt there would be no reason to remove them. Everything else is out. The back of the case has marks from the ring gear . Anybody have a clue as to why? I took advantage of the temps and painted it. Here are some pics.

A stubby 18 tooth sawzall blade , or even a good Bosch metal cutting blade in a jigsaw works just fine . The pipe cuts fairly easily - just keep checking it closely and keep that blade parallel to the pipe inlet or you'll notch the block . The cast iron compared to the steel will cut faster with most blades , so be careful . Sarge

Anymore I dont even try with any method but Sarges, and its pretty quick so you dont have to mess around with the waiting period on the other methods. And yes, you might get a little mark in the threads with the saw so some careful attention there, but I have never seen it to make a problem

From one carpenter to another, very nice work

Here is a relay we can get here in Canada at Princess Auto that comes with a wired socket. Once it is installed it is plug and play. No more wondering where that loose wire came from. Northern Tool carries many of the same products PA does. Garry

This is something Wheel Horse did starting in 1980. The C-Series with battery ignition and B-Series with magneto ignition used the same 103990 battery type of ignition switch. The B-Series have what they named a kill relay added to control the ignition and utilized the very same safety switches and wiring. A brilliant solution. Garry

Garry, you continue to amaze me. The solutions you share on this site are fantastic!

way ahead of u. previous owner had those made up lol

Best forum on the web right here. These guys have helped me more times than I can count with problems I ran into when I first got my 1277. Couldn't ask for a better group and proud to call myself a member here. When your decals come in and you get them put on...as always

The woodworking shop had been our guest house prior to building our new house. When we bought the property it had two single bedroom houses, we liked the property enough (and the price) that it didn't matter; planned on building a new house anyway. Now the house we lived in for five years is the guest house. Here is a picture of it after a horse rustling trip in 2006. Suburban 400 on the trailer and a pair of RJs in the truck; '57 RJ-35 and a '58 RJ.

@MalMac Does the engine run? If so, run the engine to get the head & muffler nipple hot then shut the engine off and melt some paraffin wax on the threads. The wax will find its way through...Let it cool then use a pipewrench to just unscrew it. Like was said earlier....the locking nut will easily break off or unscrew....either one works. I'm sorry @obone I didn't realize you suggested paraffin wax in your post. Guess I didn't read it very well.

You made a fair offer imo, considering all it needs and being non-running. I'd keep looking unless that model is a must have for you. I have an older (85 or 86) 416-8 with the Kohler in decent shape and running well that I'd sell for what they want.

Personally I would add the solenoid and the lighter duty ignition switch. Then you only need #6 wire or even #4 usually available in made up battery cables between the battery (+) and the solenoid and between the solenoid and the starter. Then the rest of the wiring could be #14. Even #16 wire would work but the #14 has more structural strength. You will end up delivering more power to the starter just because the heavy cable is shorter. The common 109331 ignition switch is much cheaper because of supply and demand and a push-on wire connector is available to keep things neat. Garry