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The Blizzrd Kings first outing with the modified K301.

I made this sleeve hitch landscape rake using rake tines from Agrisupply. http://www.agrisupply.com/hole-landscape-rake-tine/p/33913/

Taaaaa Daaaaaa ok just finished the 3 Amp (for both lights) photo shoot. I wired positive and ground from the battery to a switch mounted in the cab, no relay. took me all afternoon, but they work, no problems. Hope you can judge for yourself, they are pretty darn good. And went with the flood light beam not the spot light for a wide field of vision. Some pictures from in the cab, and walking around for differant angles. A few of the pictures looking at the tractor I was well over a hundred feet away. Hope you can see it ok. Me, happy camper, and thanks for all your help to me. Glenn

HF Badlands winches 3500lb seem to hold up to the abuse Ive seen and put them through in the lake bottoms on four wheelers biggest issues being the cable. The cable will hold up for a long while but definitely worth changing to a synthetic rope there strength is impressive and alot easier on the hands as far as convenience goes they are well worth it my opinion.

I have finally gotten my 518xi ready for this season and it sounds like I might use it next weekend. It is the same tractor in the 2017 calendar for December. This year I have the pleasure of a cab on this one as well. The 523Dxi with the snowthrower and cab is next. Last year there wasn't any snow until January so I was caught off guard thinking there wouldn't be any snow for the year. The diesel was never setup! This one took a while as it has a new/old cab that I bought from a RS member. All the frame pieces were primed and painted. I replaced the original hardware with stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts. One thing I noticed right away is that the Kohler moves a lot less air inside the cab than the Daihatsu diesel. Another modification may be an actuator for sectoring the plow.

I use a 1500lb boat winch with a 25ft strap. Works great. When it is not in use for loading, I use it to secure the dolly wheel both in the upright and folded positions.

I got the transaxle back together, here's a few pics of what I did. This is really a pretty simple process once all the hyd lines are out of the way, just unbolt the case and pop it apart. I collapsed the seals with a chisel and popped them out with a screwdriver then drove the bearings out with a bearing driver, then installed new axle bearings (Torrington J1816) and seals (SKF11124) and a new brake shaft seal (SKF7443). Putting it back together is pretty straight forward, just needed to make sure the 2 thrust washers were in place and I used a gasket from Toro (108312).

While going through T-MO's 520H thread I noticed on @WVHillbilly520H trailer he had a manual crank winch mounted on the front . Perfect for or small tractors . No motors or wires to deal with and probably pretty cheap at HF . No if we're talking, let's say a car trailer I'd say 12V winch for your bigger hauls would work great .

No Pictures but I have a little video if you can put up with a few blank frames in the beginning where my software goofed up . The monster crawler is my buddy Jim's & the one with the beat-to-hell orange body is mine .

I would trim them smooth. The tubes are what will hold the air after that point, not the plugs.

Fraternal twins Robert and Roberta share a rather distinctive berth mark. can you pick it out?

"Gork approaches the moon from deep outer space. He is somewhat startled that the moon is not made of cheese like he was told in his younger days. In fact it is somewhat fuzzy and squishy like his pet goldfish."

Just flip over a 4x4 wood pallet (they are usually free) tie on a rope and have at it! you can always burn it if it doesnt work.

I may try the hand winch idea first...bought one a while back for like 30 bucks at our local farm supply store for our bale buggy...if nothing else it would be handier than having to block the tires to restreach the cable 3-4 times before getting the tractor loaded

I also use a strap winch mounted on the trailer tong, works great.

I have a hand winch with a strap not a cable. Works quite well.

JackC's chain link fence suggestion. Or how about three or four of these and build a simple frame to attach them too and drag it. Plus you can still use them as hand rakes by drilling a hole and using a bolt to easily remove and attach the handles. Use the same bolt to attach them to the frame for dragging. http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-14-Tine-Bow-Rake-2825100/204412433 Or attach one to the RC truck and kill two birds with one stone Or find some free rebar to cut into tines and build a frame to pull it. Just throwing some S#!t against the wall to see what sticks

Trim plugs smooth and put tire patch over plugs . This will keep the plug from pushing back in and give you a smooth surface on the inside of your tire. Nowadays they use what's called a plug/patch. Any good tire shop should be able to handle this quickly and shouldn't cost you a arm and leg either . Especially with the tires off the rim .

I've made a little progress on this thing this week, most of the parts I've ordered are here so I hope I can start putting this back together. I've got the steering gears and front axle cleaned up and back on, I'll need to adjust the tie rods to set the toe in on the front wheels. I'm also putting new seals and outer axle bearings in the transaxle and have a start on blasting the rims so I can get these new shoes put on and get this thing rolling again.

Coach said "Keep your eye on the ball"! Mike.....

Hi Mark, Yes it did. It arrived in the mail today and it looks absolutely great! I have always liked this style foot rest, so it is going on my 702. To me, it will always be a warm reminder of your generosity. And thanks to all of my fellow Red Square Members who have helpfully commented on this project. I hope you don't mind, but I took a picture to show off your good work. Thanks again, Dave

So, today two more horses followed me home. These critters sure are friendly! Somebody should have warned me that they breed like rabbits! Anyways, the first is a B80 with the 8 speed and a 16hp Kohler. The metal is straight and it runs strong. It does need a governor adjustment and the voltage rectifier needs to be hooked up. The tires look ok, but they are very hard and are starting to crack. The second is a Charger 10 with hydro trans, an 8hp Kohler that smokes a little, and duallies. This tractor needs a new voltage rectifier, one new rear tire, and an engine rebuild or new engine. These tractors came as a package deal with a bunch of parts, including a couple mule drives, a 30-some inch universal snow plow, and a 38" triple blade rear discharge deck. $400 took it all home. How do you think I did?

Gentlemen, Just stopping by for an introduction and maybe a short story...my name is Brian, married and father to 1 son a mere 18 months old. I'm a 33yo mechanic/electrician and a part time police officer of the small town I reside on the far western, corn-fielded suburbs of Chicago. (unfortunately, haha) Just got into tractors this year but I tend to go full throttle sometimes with newfound hobbies. Got a buddy who has owned a Gravely 430 restored, 2 123 Cubs and now a 125 hes almost done with but has been using. His neighbor has 3 or 4? Pre 70 wheel horses restored so that has helped propel me to my current situation. I bought a simplicity tractor from the 80's with a single stage blower for my fairly good size drive this year. Its too small and I want a 2 stage. With lots of research I narrowed down a few models from 3 brands Cub, Gravely, and Wheel Horse. Here I am, I'm a proud owner of a (not sure of the year, was told 73 but im thinking 76) C-160. I bought a package from a gentleman somewhat close to me and all of the stuff I got is in darn good shape, but I did buy the tractor with some trans issues that ill save for another thread. I already love that horse and ive only had it for a few days. This web site is great, ive only been lurking for a couple weeks but I have learned so much already. Of all the 20+ forums ive joined over the years I can honestly say this one retains the most class. So many google searches have brought me here and ive yet to see any immature nonsensical ramblings or bickering among this group, already feels like home. My goal is to get this tractor in 100% working condition, whether with the trans in it or with a donor trans, work it, restore it and pass it to my son 30-40 years from now. Much to learn, I have, but im willing and eager...its good to be here.

Saw this today at TSC. Might make things easier for a guy who doesn't want to build his own harness......about 25 clams ...sorry about the sideways

This is what I made for rocks and leveling. I have often thought of making a mount for the Dxi. You can hear the rocks being kicked up in the video - It handles 8 to 10 inch rocks with no problem. The pump is getting loose on the Dingo so it doesn't run as good as it should. The nice thing is it levels besides getting up the rocks. Those ruts in your trail would be gone in one pass. bf53ea03-3b41-4338-918f-42600338b3e1.webm

I had a hand winch on a 6 x 12 tilt trailer years ago. Worked great. For my current trailer, I might try this: http://www.harborfreight.com/900-lb-capacity-hand-winch-62471.html

I have the exact same set up. $10 at HF. Works like a charm and as ACman says - no wires no fuss...

Professor , I had my time messing with come-alongs and chains pulling up cars, big tractors, heck even furnaces . I know where you're coming from it's a pain in the butt . A electric winch would be real nice on any trailer but a hand crank winch sure beats a come-along any day .

Dragging a pallet with some weight on does a reasonable job.

Y'all are more ambitious than me LOL

Me too, works well. If used every day then an electric winch would make more sense.

While in high school I worked part time in a gas station and lots of cars were using tube type tires. I put a tube in a tubeless tire that had been plugged (though I didn't know it) and that plug chewed a hole in the tube within a week. Granted, you won't be putting a lot of miles on the tire, but why take the chance.

Depends on whether those four guys... would rather be racing, or raking? Either way Gene... of what's running on that track. .

Here is some duals eye candy: This is my C-81 with a loader and dual wheels. That is correct a little C-81 with a loader. In my opinion, the C-81 is really too small of a platform for some serious loader work and the loader will be going onto a 1997 520H when I get around to it. I made some forks out of 2 x 4s which work real well for moving things around including lawn furniture and my heavy 60 inch decks. I also have a D-200 with a loader and the big D is a much better platform for a loader. When the loader is up in the air the dual wheels can save the tractor from tipping over on an incline. Best to keep the loader and bucket low when in motion. Don't ask me how I know. ((I came close to tipping over the D-200 which does not have the dual wheels.))

Here's your proof Was on craigslist for awhile, not sure what happened to it. ]

12-9-1921 GM engineers discover that leaded gas reduces “knock” in auto engines On this day, a young engineer at General Motors named Thomas Midgeley Jr. discovers that when he adds a compound called tetraethyl lead (TEL) to gasoline, he eliminates the unpleasant noises (known as “knock” or “pinging”) that internal-combustion engines make when they run. Midgeley could scarcely have imagined the consequences of his discovery: For more than five decades, oil companies would saturate the gasoline they sold with lead–a deadly poison. In 1911, a scientist named Charles Kettering, Midgeley’s boss at GM, invented an electric ignition system for internal-combustion cars that made their old-fashioned hand-cranked starters obsolete. Now, driving a gas-fueled auto was no trouble at all. Unfortunately, as more and more people bought GM cars, more and more people noticed a problem: When they heated up, their engines made an alarming racket, banging and clattering as though their metal parts were loose under the hood. The problem, Kettering and Midgeley eventually figured out, was that ordinary gasoline was much too explosive for spark-ignited car engines: that is, what we now call its octane (a measure of its resistance to detonation) was too low. To raise the fuel’s octane level and make it less prone to detonation and knocking, Midgeley wrote later, he mixed it with almost anything he could think of, from “melted butter and camphor to ethyl acetate and aluminum chloride…[but] most of these had no more effect than spitting in the Great Lakes.” He found a couple of additives that did work, however, and lead was just one of them. Iodine worked, but producing it was much too complicated. Ethyl alcohol also worked, and it was cheap–however, anyone with an ordinary still could make it, which meant that GM could not patent it or profit from it. Thus, from a corporate point of view, lead was the best anti-knock additive there was. In February 1923, a Dayton filling station sold the first tankful of leaded gasoline. A few GM engineers witnessed this big moment, but Midgeley did not, because he was in bed with severe lead poisoning. He recovered; however, in April 1924, lead poisoning killed two of his unluckier colleagues, and in October, five workers at a Standard Oil lead plant died too, after what one reporter called “wrenching fits of violent insanity.” (Almost 40 of the plant’s workers suffered severe neurological symptoms like hallucinations and seizures.) Still, for decades auto and oil companies denied that lead posed any health risks. Finally, in the 1970s, the Environmental Protection Agency required that carmakers phase out lead-compatible engines in the cars they sold in the United States. Today, leaded gasoline is still in use in some parts of Eastern Europe, South America and the Middle East.

I recently saw a picture on another thread where a winch was mounted on the front corner with an idler pulley at the center of the trailer. Maybe something similar would work for you Bryce.

I like the looks of that model...20' of strap would be more than long enough to do what I need to do without having to stop and re-extend it, which is the main problem I'm having now. I also like that ratcheting handle...may be able to mount that under my toolbox and still be able to operate it. Can't mount one on the tongue as some have...wasn't thinking ahead when I built my trailer and put an upright angle brace right in the center of the front, but this may work out great mounted under my box. This is the trailer it will be mounted on

First drive of my wheelhorse fitted with a stationary engine.

Neat video. How about dragging an old inner spring mattress or a section of chain link fence fabric?

Gotta keep the Rock & Roll on the radio, not the ! Thanks for the

Hard to beat the ease of use, and final product. Depending on the size of area you plan to work... might be worth the daily, or maybe...just a half day rental.

Nice work @Hacksawhero123. Although this had absolutely nothing to do with me, I'd still like to thank you for helping out a fellow RS member!

Here it is completed. It did turn out to be a stout robust machine. I have to confess I do stand in the garage staring at it. But the only thing is that the wirring gremlins have bitten this machine it sometimes doesn't want to start and I have the ignition bypassed just to get spark and had to wire a separate kill switch.

Here is a pic of the PUSH / TOW Valve. If you cannot turn the 'roll pin' handle, just put an open-end wrench and break loose the HEX END plug. Doing this will open the valve and allow you to roll the tractor. Once indoors, take the HEX all the way out and free-up the valve.

Ken, a fellow member made a pair of extended axles to accommodate duals for my 18 Automatic. I still am working on getting the second set of hubs ready, then I can begin to proceed with assembling the other side.

My preference is the factory ones. A bit more money, but that's my choice. Glenn

I personally like the looks of the C-120 over the 121. Here's mine.

For anyone interested in making a pair here are the plans. Wheel Dual adapter.pdf Or you can do dual front wheels like this puller.