Leaderboard

Last year I thought a land roller would be handy for rolling the green and verges, in front of my home. On my travels I came across the cylinder part of a roller. This had a solid bar right through and running on plain bushes. Not what I wanted, so a mod was made. Bar and bushes out, stub axles made and welded in. And some nice new bearings fitted. Next a frame was knocked up. Pair of nice heavy weights out of an old storage heater. I've added another now. Some paint thrown around. And the end result. Behind the C-81.

12-9-1921 GM engineers discover that leaded gas reduces “knock” in auto engines On this day, a young engineer at General Motors named Thomas Midgeley Jr. discovers that when he adds a compound called tetraethyl lead (TEL) to gasoline, he eliminates the unpleasant noises (known as “knock” or “pinging”) that internal-combustion engines make when they run. Midgeley could scarcely have imagined the consequences of his discovery: For more than five decades, oil companies would saturate the gasoline they sold with lead–a deadly poison. In 1911, a scientist named Charles Kettering, Midgeley’s boss at GM, invented an electric ignition system for internal-combustion cars that made their old-fashioned hand-cranked starters obsolete. Now, driving a gas-fueled auto was no trouble at all. Unfortunately, as more and more people bought GM cars, more and more people noticed a problem: When they heated up, their engines made an alarming racket, banging and clattering as though their metal parts were loose under the hood. The problem, Kettering and Midgeley eventually figured out, was that ordinary gasoline was much too explosive for spark-ignited car engines: that is, what we now call its octane (a measure of its resistance to detonation) was too low. To raise the fuel’s octane level and make it less prone to detonation and knocking, Midgeley wrote later, he mixed it with almost anything he could think of, from “melted butter and camphor to ethyl acetate and aluminum chloride…[but] most of these had no more effect than spitting in the Great Lakes.” He found a couple of additives that did work, however, and lead was just one of them. Iodine worked, but producing it was much too complicated. Ethyl alcohol also worked, and it was cheap–however, anyone with an ordinary still could make it, which meant that GM could not patent it or profit from it. Thus, from a corporate point of view, lead was the best anti-knock additive there was. In February 1923, a Dayton filling station sold the first tankful of leaded gasoline. A few GM engineers witnessed this big moment, but Midgeley did not, because he was in bed with severe lead poisoning. He recovered; however, in April 1924, lead poisoning killed two of his unluckier colleagues, and in October, five workers at a Standard Oil lead plant died too, after what one reporter called “wrenching fits of violent insanity.” (Almost 40 of the plant’s workers suffered severe neurological symptoms like hallucinations and seizures.) Still, for decades auto and oil companies denied that lead posed any health risks. Finally, in the 1970s, the Environmental Protection Agency required that carmakers phase out lead-compatible engines in the cars they sold in the United States. Today, leaded gasoline is still in use in some parts of Eastern Europe, South America and the Middle East.

in narrator voice ... and it was in that moment, that all of the shocking events of Tiger's nine lives began to flash before his eyes. He couldn't' help but think, "What if I would have filled the soccer ball with concrete?"

Here you go Glenn and T-Mo. Let's see if this works. Two 24 watt LEDs on front, one 18 watt on the back tied into my reverse switch and a 6 pattern LED strobe on top. This one gives you a good idea on how bright these LEDs are. And finally the control switch.

Both adapters done, it's gonna be a beast! best take a look at the rear axle...

Being faced with an average of 150 inches of snow each year it sure makes removing it much easier and comfortable.

If you carefully measure that starter solenoid you'll find it's a bit more offset in it's mounting than an off the shelf unit for Ford and others . AMC used that exact solenoid on some of their cars and I remember working on them back in the day - they mounted them in some really odd spots on the Eagle and other models with the back side dead up against something , buried deep to boot . It was always a challenge finding parts , some stuff fit from the Auto parts stores , other stuff had to come directly from AMC - especially clutch kits for some reason as they had odd depth throwout bearings and clutch disks . No different than International and their trucks - had to stay away from aftermarket stuff if you wanted it to fit correctly , especially clutch/brake parts ....ugh . Personally , the D is easy to work on compared to many other tractors/equipment I've worked on . I have had experience on just about anything with an engine , from heavy equipment to some light aircraft and spent a lot of years building dirt race cars , offroad trucks for others and my own 4x4's - try working on a Pinzgauer or Unimog . I worked with an old diesel shop , the owner never turned down anything - including a sail boat that had come off it's trailer and jammed the keel tight , that took 2 days to get it working and was pushing my woodworking skills to the limit the way those are fitted to seal . One of the best engineered things I've ever worked on is my old '77 Land Cruiser FJ40 . There is nothing on that truck that isn't built to be overhauled - it's all in the manual . Waterpump , brake booster/master , steering box - it's all outlined in deep detail with specs to rebuild/overhaul to make new again . Layout is far better than most things , albeit quite heavy and seriously overbuilt . No wonder so many are still running despite neglect and serious abuse in 3rd world nations in some of the worst conditions and terrain you can imagine . Restoring one is deadly expensive as many OEM parts are NLA and becoming very expensive . OEM is the best to use but seriously expensive - all the window/hardtop/doors/windshield rubber totals over $3500 alone . Record so far on a nice but not dead perfect '76 hardtop went for $109,000 at auction for a truck that will beat you to a pulp driving it and outlive almost any human willing to endure the beating ....very much like our beloved Wheel Horses ..lol . I have noticed prices on tractors and parts has started to climb again and a whole new generation of owners showing up with newbie questions . Don't take it the wrong way - it's a good thing to keep them alive and prevent them going to the scrap yards by the dozen as they did in the past . It's also nice to see them show up on the various forums despite the questions covering 101 basics on engines and tractors in general - it's teaching a new generation of people willing to learn mechanics and do their own work . As long as the older generations that grew up doing this stuff keeps them honest and not let them totally pollute things with bad habits and ideals it's all good . I'm not too thrilled with some of the new sellers showing up on FB , the forums , Ebay and CL - some are trying to command high prices on totally junk parts so buyers beware . All we can do is teach - what is good , what is bad and what can be repaired or somehow fixed . I think I've pretty much fixed the issue with the D's wearing out steering spindles and will do further work to prevent too much iron hitting the scrap pile . The real challenge is stop so many easily repaired whole tractors from being parted out - I'm commonly seeing good runners being dismantled just for the sake of a profit and that's not a good thing . Kudos for saving one - not a whole lot of info on them and I'm learning the model myself so I'm highly interested in any info that crops up and will do what I can to help . Sarge

OH NO!!! Here goes my other ball.

I personally like the looks of the C-120 over the 121. Here's mine.

For anyone interested in making a pair here are the plans. Wheel Dual adapter.pdf Or you can do dual front wheels like this puller.

Here's what I'm using, has spots and floods, also put some cheat programmed flashers on the sides and back, may upgrade them at some time.

SUFFER'IN SUCCOTASH!!!!!!!!!

Rebuttal I haven't been a real man since I turned 55 and had to start taking little blue pills. It is dark when I go to WORK and dark when I get home.. I keep telling it to snow only on Saturdays and Sundays during the day but like others in my family it don't listen!! I would just stick with a separate switch(s) That way if you just want to run the tractor's lights alone, and yes less complicated. Wiring is my strong suit so if ya need help holler but looks like Bob has got the diagrams covered.

Make the lighting issue real simple Number 1 real men don't use cabs Number 2 Move snow in the day time

Glenn, Here is how you would wire it up using a relay if that is what you choose to do.

Dave, perfect videos and the tractor light set up WITH defroster. I have to give an A+ on your exam young man. Thanks for sharing, also on your rear back up light, looks identical to my cab front lights, judging by how bright it is in the video I will be a happy camper. Thanks again for the effort. Glenn

Dave, Definitely the way to go if you do have to remove snow. A snow blower, cab, lights, heat, etc.....nice.

NICE John Deere tractor/blower you have there, Dave!!!! Thanks for the video!!!

That's my life with the "can't get away from it" I have less than 2 years now before I can cash out and move on . . . I can actually do it now, but we have DROP plan (Google it) that is too good to pass up. First thing I'm going to do when I leave is take a hammer to my cell phone Then look for somewhere warmer . . .

Guys, be sure to take videos and pictures of your snow removal adventures. I don't like snow, but I do enjoy seeing those who get snow, how they get rid of it. Plus, it makes me feel good watching you guys out there in the cold dealing with the white fluffy stuff while I sip my hot coffee and stay nice and warm inside..... Seriously, though, I do like seeing the videos and pics. We do get some snow here in my part of Missouri, but thankfully not as much as your northern guys do. Did I mention I don't like snow?

Sorry for the next reference, but on WFM there is always the annual Snow/Winter thread that runs throughout that winter season. It gets a lot of posts on weather conditions, the latest snow storm, what's everyone using for snow removal, etc. So, this thread could be that type of thread to where it gets updated and gets informative posts on various snow related equipment (Wheel Horse, of course), etc. I guess if everyone feels it will continue to get updated with snow/winter related posts, including questions and comments on equipment, I could make this into a sticky. It will become the unofficial, official 2016/2017 snow thread thingy.

Hey guys. I've been lurking on this site for a couple weeks now looking at all of your wonderful Wheelhorse tractors and learning what I can about mine. My uncle called me and asked if I wanted a WH. That's an easy one!! I've been in love with the WH's since I was a kid. Anyway one of the mounting points on the mower deck had rusted thru so he decided get a new cub cadet. The new to me WH is a 312-8. It had 312 hours on it when I brought it home. I've spent a few hours cleaning it up and mounting the dozer blade. Here's a couple of pics. the 1st pic is prior to clean up. Looking forward to learning more about them!

I noticed posts in My "New" 520-H Thread discussing recommended oil filters. Here are couple of websites that might be of interest to the group. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html and http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html

http://www.wheelhorsecc.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=2

Forgive Jim and Ed's manners for not ing you to @dince.... they are old and prone to forget

Fathers Day....Sunday, June 18, 2017.

Make room on that weight box for a cheap small engine like off a push mower . Add a heavy shaft and a doubled pair of pillow block bearings with a belt drive to the engine . Mount about 3lbs of offset weight onto the shaft . Start engine and only engage belt while moving , otherwise it will try to bury itself in soft ground ... I built one similar to that , but with a larger diameter roller and added an old 3hp Briggs engine , pulley drive with cable actuated idler pulley and a heavy shaft on double bearings . It would literally flatten the ground in one pass but if you went too slow it would start creating mud quickly and try to sink . Worked great , used it once and some guy riding past one day offered a hefty price so he owns it now - no idea where it even went . All the metal and engine was freebie garbage scrap , bearings were scavenged off another scrap job - worked fine for me . Plenty of ideas on YouTube out there....search out building a vibrating roller.. Sarge

Just started sorting out the wiring on my recently purchased D-200.Looks like I'll be rewiring most of it.Got a new ignition switch pigtail on it's way.Previous owner re-located the starter solenoid on the engine air shroud.Gonna mount it back on the frame.I can see where it should be mounted,but so far,can't get my hands in there to bolt it down.Quit that project for now and moved on to repair the wiring from the engine to the rectifier.Good Lord........that rectifier is worse to get to than the solenoid.So those engineers way back when,must have went on to teach the next generation of automotive engineers.

Dual rear wheels on any model... are made possible with an wheel adapter.

None as far as I know. There is a dual wheel adapter than can be used on most models. Google: wheel horse dual wheel adapter for some pics.

There is a roll pin stuck though the top of the tow valve stem. Turn it so it faces the rear to push the tractor..Turn it toward the front to drive. This is ported valve you can turn it all day long the only thing that matters is which way the long end of the roll pin is pointing. There should be a sticker like in the manual picture above

Do you see that stupid cat??? Here, Hold my beer and watch this!!

Thanks for all your help I've sorted it, I pulled all the wires out and they was broke so I rewired now I've got a good spark 👍🏻

Interesting ... Richard....

That is a snow beast for sure! I like how well lit everything is, a must for proper night snow removal. It is the "wrong color" bbut an impressive machine to say the least. I gotta get a cab setup now!

Today while reading through the threads that I'm following to gain knowledge for future use I seen a picture in Lagersolt's snow blower auger bearing replace thread. And since I have been meaning to post this idea I have used since entering the work force I seen it as perfect time to pass it on. This setup makes it easy for me to find tools and also when putting tools back after working on a project a open slot keys me in to a tool I over looked while picking them up. I take wire trough cutting it to the length I need to hold the number of tools I want to organize. I then cut it to heigth needed to clear when closing drawers. Once those 2 steps are done I widen the slots that wires went though to fit the tools I've chosen. I split the trough for use with wrenches and used scrap for boxing in the side cutters and snap ring pliers. Though the years I have learned that once these steps are done it is best to set the tools up and position the whole setup were you plan to mount it. I originally used 2 sided tape this is okay but may need to be repaired if glue drys out. I now drill a hole in each end and pop rivet them from under side so rivets don't interfere with anything below the drawer. Some times the length will dictate the addition of a second or third rivet for stability. I spent majority of my career in industrial settings allowing me access to used wire trough for free so I can't say what it would cost to buy a length of it.

Time to get my weights on the 523, looks like east central WI is likely to get about 6-8" of the white stuff on Sat-Mon. I have an operational single stage for "Blackbeard" (my sons GT14). If I have time, I'll get it ready on Saturday too. I'd like to play with that a little to see how well it will function but I have to dig up some chains in order to have enough traction. Don't know if I'll get that far but I'm gonna try! I'll be sure to post pics and video of the clean up process

Ok, finally got my iPad to play nice. Here's a picture of the JD X530 and 47" blower with my LED lights. I have two 24 watt floods on front. Having trouble loading a video. 😒

1. Check the fluid level in the tranny to gauge if it is full or not. If not, that could be contributing to your problem. 2. Another thing to check is to see if the tow valve on the top left hand side of the tranny is open or closed. It needs to be closed to work properly. 3. Make sure the "parking brake" lever is in the down position. It has an idler pulley which provides tension to the engine to tranny drive belt. If not down, the belt will not be tensioned properly resulting in inadequate operation. 4. The drain plug is on the bottom of the tranny, very close the the rear of the casing. It is a pipe plug threaded part. Measure careful the volume removed, AND note the appearance of the fluid. If reddish, it is Type A automatic transmission fluid. If brown, it is oil. You should be able to smell the difference as well as noting its color appearance. Replace with the same type of fluid that came out. DO NOT MIX TRANNY FLUIDS! 5. Change the filter at the same time as you drain the case. Add any remaining volume to what is removed from the tranny case. 6. Total fluid volume to replace is 1 gallon. If the volume you drained is substantially less than 1 gallon, this could also be contributing to your erratic transmission performance. I usually give everything at least a couple of hours to completely drain before reinstalling the drain plug and new filter. 7. Make sure you have the proper drive belt (in total length) installed between the engine pulley and the transmission drive pulley. A too long or loose belt will result in erratic tranny performance.

T-Mo, what I did to my trailer was mount the licence plate to the fender. Instead of horizontal, I mounted it vertical and bent it to match the shape of the fender. Drilled four holes and attached it with 1/4" rivets. It's not coming off unless somebody has a drill! Been running it this way for quite a few years. Guess I better get my butt over there and pick up the 401. Feel free to move it out to make room for the new ride! RAndy

Great idea I will definitely consider it got to make it more rugged. I made little progress this evening I got a rough pattern in place and trying to get it in shape it won't be identical but hopefully close enough for satisfaction. I would prefer to have a old deck and cut and piece but I figured I would try my hand

Hey Nigel, probably best if you can post a pic of your engine so we can see what's going on. A second wire run from this same contact at the condenser or from the points is where a kill wire would be connected. The 2 small wires from the coil are primary and secondary. The longer wire connects to the condenser. Also make sure the plug wire is completely inserted into the coil itself. There is a little pin in the bottom of that hole which sends spark through the wire. The plug wire can be replaced without replacing the coil so there's no harm in pulling it out if needed but best to epoxy it back in so it doesn't come loose.

One thing I do when rebuilding decks is to add 1/16" thick bolting plates to the inside of the decks under all the bolts to spread out the load and prevent stress cracks. You can usually get two bolts in one plate and if the surface is flat maybe more. I cut the plates, clamp them in place and then scribe off the square holes. Then drill the holes on the drill press and file the corners out square. Of course all painting is done before final assembly. And to the

Get rid of the Frams. Engine Napa 1762. Trans Napa 1410

@WHX9 , yes every state is different with "trailer laws" . It's a good idea if you're crossing state lines to check their laws for trailers , could save you some grief from the lawmen . Don't mean to take over your thread T-MO...looking forward to more .

Here's a quick update on the progress. I've got the lower hood stand assembly sitting in place. The rest of the items to complete it are hanging in the garage drying. The remaining parts for the K-161 are ready to install. If you remember the hopeless Walbro carb thread I started you'll know why I put a new carb on. I also installed a new coil. I ended up using aircraft remover to get the motor stripped. By this time next week it should really start coming together. The hood only needs minor tweaking before it gets painted.

Made some progress on the "free" 606. I degreased it, rubbed everything down with 0000 steel wool and Windex, and hit it with a couple light coats of Matte clear coat. I think it looks pretty good. It still looks old and dull but now it should be protected for a while. Some new bushings and a transaxle gear oil change and I think it's ready to put my dad's old, unused Predator on there. I'm not sure how that's all going to line up but I'm assuming I will figure it out. I had the tires and wheels and since I really haven't spent much of anything on this tractor I splurged on some new decals.

I have a C-121 and love it! Dependable and (to me) nice looks.