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First time I have had the stable out for some exercise and a photo shoot.They may not be to pretty but they sure work hard. Hope this satisfies the cries for more pictures.JAinVA

Guys, I finally was fortunate enough to meet and spend time with19Richie66. He is an all around terrific guy and I encourage everyone here to introduce yourselves to him at the Big Show next year if you have not already met him. Richie is hoping to attend his first Big Show, and I sure hope he can make it happen. We did some horse trading and with the help of Richie's Son, hauled stuff off of Richie's trailer and into my shop and Wheel Horse rolling chassis storage building. Then hauled stuff out of my storage building and Wheel Horse Barn and into his trailer. Richie ended up with a complete rear end and hydro pump and tach and vacuum gauge from a 520H roller I had. Also my old 417Hydro rolling chassis that was in the storage building, and the KT17 series 2 engine that was being stored in the Wheel Horse barn. And maybe some other stuff that I can't remember at this time. I happily ended up with a 1989 312-8 that has a fine running Magnum 12. The tractor needs a fender pan, seat, clutch return spring, and some TLC to be a usable working tractor. Buts that's no problem as I should have everything needed right here in stock. The tractor came with a set of Firestone AG's which I've already removed to put on John Robert (my K powered 416-8). The bonus to this 312-8 is it has a stack exhaust complete with a rain cap. Next cool thing I got from Richie was a complete running 10hp K engine mounted on a shaker plate. This engine has a little stack muffler with a rain cap that I may put on the 701. That should make it look even more like a miniature farm tractor. I have a Blackhood roller that needs a shaker plate engine. Then a complete but at the present time nonworking 8 speed transmission that can be repaired or used for parts. We had to part company much too soon, but Richie had to get back home to Florida. Here is a few pics of the things I ended up with.

Saw this at a new job today. It needs a hug... I may end up trying to buy it before I leave... I think I saw a deck in the weeds, and possibly a rear blade.

Always nice to meet face to face with a member you have had lots of on-line interaction with.

10-24-1969 Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid opens On this day in 1969, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford as a team of bank robbers in the Old West, opens in theaters around the United States. The film was a commercial and critical success, receiving seven Oscar nominations (including Best Picture and Best Director) and winning in the categories of Best Screenplay (William Goldman), Best Song (Burt Bacharach’s “Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head”), Best Score and Best Cinematography.

Not sure about the oil would not think that would cause it, but you should let an engine idle for a little bit before turning off.

I restored my C-121 and enjoyed the process. Wheel Horse made a good product and of the dozen of so tractors I have work on WH is the best. Post lots of pics. Here is one of mine after I finished

Eaton 700 cannot have attachment lift. Eaton 1100's ALMOST always came with a lift system already installed. There are a few exceptions to this in the 300 series I think. There is no 520A, but all 520H's had hydro lift.

Early C120 C160 had Sundstrand Hydros. (as did Chargers and Electros of all years) I believe the lift cylinder was standard on the C160 but optional on the C120...it was optional on Chargers but standard on electros). As mentioned above you can add the lift cylinder to any Sunstrand hydro it does require an internal spring and shims. You will also need a cylinder, hoses and control valve. Easier to find a tractor that has it installed.

A hunting trip last week got in the way of progress on this project. But i'm back at it today, sorry for the delay. I was able to get the trans put back together took a few photos. but not very many photos because i would have had to wash my hands every 2-5 minutes to run the camera phone. After assembly it is much tighter and smoother than before.no more axle slop. I don't think the differential was even working corectly before, and the shift linkages were not working correctly either. Turned out the little spring and pin was rusty and the detent balls were getting caught up a bit. I also gave the inside a coat of glyptal after I bead blasted the whole thing. I found a rubber bellow in Mcmaster that looks like it will work for the shifter boot. what's everyone else using? http://www.mcmaster.com/#9744k12/=14qelan Once the sealant sets up on the gasket I am going to replace all the bolts with new ones and will be sealing them up. I only had one hiccup during assembly and luckily it was early on. I installed the new bushings in the diff and completely forgot they came long so i pressed them out to leave clearance for the pinion gear and just turned them down in place. I didn't have a puller that would work with that small a bearing so i welded 1/4" bolts to the bearing races and just used a slide hammer. here's a few pics trans-Done next step is the chassis. I have been soaking the foot pedals in PB blaster and have put them through a few heat cycles in the last couple week. going to attempt to separate them hopefully they budge. I may have to build some kind of puller.

Chrysler with the "Never Burn " system and the "Ultra Slide" trannys! And don't get me started when they got involved with Renault! Of course now it's Fiat! YOU'RE A GOOD SPORT GLENN!!!

Good info here! Please keep it up! I was just told that often(sometimes?) a XXXA, 416A for example, would have hydro but have a manual lift, where a XXXH, 416H would have both hydro and hydraulic lift. Didn't seem that held true all the time but lots of WH rules aren't absolute!

OMG...you are going to be so glad you went into this trans. You can leave the other hub on for now...if you fell like really screwing around, you can open the differential in place and get the snap ring off and just have the axle and the hub in your hand. I just gave WHX8 my one and only 1 1/8" hub 2 weeks ago. Don't worry, they are out there, and they are not expensive. If you get the chance, make a hub puller like this. The one Paul is showing is to die for. Do you have access to a parts cleaner? It will make the cleanup much nicer...if not...I use a paint tray with diesel fuel and a good brush to get down to it, and then a wire wheel on the grinder to get is all clean. It is a nasty job, but well worth it. Take some pictures and show us how good or bad it is. Hub puller...top right.

Actually it is pretty much the same hydro system. The engine can makeup for some of the age related weakness. Can you push the tractor at all engine off and the tow valve in drive position? Yes all the brake pedal does is push the control lever to neutral. There are some adjustments you need to check to assure it is moving it to exactly neutral. I do not have GT14 so I defer to other members and the Owners manual on how to check the adjustment

If you have a big enough flange puller try pulling against the back end of the hub...Picture is of pulling a D series hub from the back. It finally worked, worse hub I have ever come across or try cutting a deep grove/slot parallel to the axle (angle grinder or even a reciprocating saw.) cut down till you are close to the axle then put some blocking under the hub and use a chisel and BFH in the groove/slot to split the hub.

Didn't notice that .. that's worth the trip alone Tom! I was talking the tractor Richard!

A while back I worked at a small family owned auto repair shop. I'd usually do at least 3 tranny r & r's on Chrysler mini vans a week. It was to the point that I could do one blind folded with one hand tied behind my back while hopping up and down on one foot...... Maybe they have improved since then? I've owned a few wicked 440's in 69 Charger's in my day, can't say a bad thing about them... I could think of a few choice words for the electrical systems in those 69 Chargers though....

I own a 2009 chrysler town and country, just turned 80k. Just did new tires, brake rotors on the front again, seems they warp easy. Always have the oil done. No trans problems, the perfect mom mobile, kids, sports stuff, friends, dogs, moving stuff. The sunroof leaked 3 times, drain kept clogging, I kept fixing. No trans problems yet. The mrs wants a new one, that new designed chrysler van, I say heck no. Plenty more mileage to be got from this one. This van has been fairly reliable. No big chrysler fan, and have 2 grand cherokee's no problems there yet. Hey, should I change the thread name? 175 pig poke, chrysler stuff, xi add ons......... We got a lot of action on this thread. Lol Spell ck is killing me. Keeps changing stuff. Glenn JD,SylvanLakeWH, Squonk, Bob, admire your knowledge on these things. Also, JD, appreciate the electric explanation, made it easier on me the novice. Not perfect, but easier. Thanks

I have been very busy lately, but just for you, I got something PLUS a cab. Have a look see. It came off an 80 hour machine. Hope you like it, I do. Finally, will be snow blowing in style on the 522xi. Glenn

Well after finishing the 1056 I wasn't sure how long it would take to dive into another. A C-160 followed me home from Springfield, Mo and it doesnt look much like ti did on Thursday. Got it on the lift ready to start the tear down process. This is what's left of it on the lift after 8 hours or so. Posted over to the Transmission page about some issues and have the parts coming. I cannot get the exhaust fitting out of the block. I will keep slathering PB on it and see if it will break loose. This one is for my daughter and son-in-law and he has agreed to come assist....Maybe this will go a bit quicker! Had considered restoring the 3 piece seat, but after reading on here that they are less than comfortable, I will forego that. SIL is 6'4 and around 250, so an adjustable thick seat will be best for him. Once finished, I may restore the 3 piece seat anyway.....The logo in the center of the backrest is still in good shape and could be stitched into another pad. The engine is strong. I am hoping I don't have to crack open the trans, but as you can see an oil seal on the input shaft is a must, as is replacing the woodruff key on the pulley. A solid 10 ounces of water came out of the trans before the oil did. New shifter boot ordered... I don't think I am going to attempt pulling the steering wheel. It looks to be more rusted up than the 1056 did and I broke a gear puller trying to get it off. I will mask the wheel and repaint the shaft and upper console that way.... More to follow as this build progresses.

The addition of a spare gas tank for a Lawn Ranger and a little work Macgyver would be proud of, got the 10hp Briggs & Stratton fired up on the BIG TEN. There you have it.... The Hybrid Allis Chalmers/ Wheel Horse tractor.

I have a 1973 W/Horse 8 and I put a Dayco belt on it 82"by5/8. It was fine as long you where just driving it but once you put pressure on it all I heard was squealing under the belt guard. And the thing was I was only back dragging with the plow. Tranny seem to bind up a lot. But now with a 7473 is 81.9" by 5/8" W/Horse belt on and that is all gone I can push stones with no bind up or squealing. So I say do it right the first time. I got off of E-... it was here in 2 days. Just my

Indywheelhorsenut and I were able to come to a mutually agreeable price on his low hour 314-8 and I added a tractor to the herd my wife could mow with. She's been mad at me ever since I sold the 520H and bought a zero turn. It doesn't have near the grunt of the 161 or the 520 but it is incredibly quiet. As soon as as my wife's anger of owning another horse subsidies I think she'll really like it.

From what I've gathered the Eaton 1100 is the best hydro WH ever used, the best there was at the time, perhaps the best there is in that category. I sure like the 2 speeds! I have both Kohlers and an Onan and again, from what I've gather both are top notch, but perhaps the Onan was not as good a match for "lawn mowing" and doesn't shed leaves and grass clipping as well, a fact that I can indeed attest to! And many have suggested that issue has caused most of the woes Onans have while powering the WHs. Combine the reduced incoming air with the restricted outgoing by the belt guard and one cylinder can overheat. The static debris guard on the Onan does seem to make a GREAT leaf catcher with every leaf you pass over trying to jump out of the sweep of the blades and land on it. I must repeatedly rise up and wipe off the collection every few minutes where the Kohler's rotating debris guard flings off the desperate leaves to once again take their chances. So my first choice for a WH would be a Kohler pushing an 8 speed! Second choice a Kohler pushing an Eaton 1100. My 416H Onan will have a task other than mowing! Seriously! I would NOT make it my mowing machine! It collects leaves and grass that bad! Others have dealt with it as a mower but I have other mowers... Man that could be a Timex style ad for Eaton! Seriously, that is a GREAT way to explain to "us" that your Eaton has taken a beatin' and still keeps on pushing! Especially that "All the blades were broken off of the cooling fan" phrase! I have just recently added a 264 to the herd, and while I like it a lot for good reasons, I will expect less of it than other's in the herd. The PO told me the Tuff-Torq trans got into some mud and overheated to failure. So note that Toro's price point offering, the 2XX series did NOT use the Eaton! Thanks for sharing!

Well Don, we actually did talk about that. Looks like I'm going to have to have us a little at the Big Show next year. Don't forget to bring a clean glass LOL

From what I`ve learned, mostly on here, the Onan or Kohler is a matter of preference. And although the Sundstrand is a good trans. most think the Eaton 1100 is nearly bulletproof...

Van was all this horse trading with or without your famous firewater?

The next two mating gears are also different.

Good thread ! I learned a lot already ......

Well I have the patience of a squirrel. Got the case separated. About an eighth inch of water still in there. I got some cleanin to do.... How do we go about checking the third gear movement issue (I think that's why I did this )

Used to do 2 2.2 turbos a day along with countless head gaskets, cams, wristpins. We had 2 big binders chuck full with all the service bulletins just with the ones trying to get the Horizon's to run smoothly cold! The absolute best were the 2.6 Mitsujunki's. You had to install a heat shield under the carb to keep it from vapor locking in the summer month's and then remove it when it got cold to keep the carb from icing! You haven't lived until you worked on Renaults though. People say "Why don't you work on cars anymore" and I answer "RENAULT!"

Okay, so two questions pop into my head now: 1) Does the wear you mention that can decrease brake efficiency affect the normal operation of the automatic drive, or is the braking feature a different "path" inside the hydro gear unit, that can degrade separately from the transmission? I am asking because the transmission is "spritely" to say the least, and when climbing hills, the engine bogs down, but the transmission doesn't seem to slip at all. So, as a beginner, my instinct is that the drive part of the hydro is working. 2) Does the brake pedal have any connection to the transmission other than disengaging the drive lever? Or, is simply moving the drive lever back to neutral EXACTLY the same as hitting the brake pedal? Thanks.

You are correct it is the hydro unit itself that provides the "braking" . Problem is as the hydro wears (allowing leak by) braking becomes less powerful. Later hydros Wheel horse added a physical band brake.

I found this post, now, that shows the pawl. So, I gather for the parking brake, the pawl drops into a gear tooth to hold the wheels steady, correct? And they get destroyed over time by people dropping it into the gears/internal milling head while the vehicle is still moving. But, that doesn't help me understand how the brake works. I have seen some animations that suggest in hydrostatic trannies, that by just putting the gear in neutral, instead of forward and reverse, the hydraulic action itself is the brake. But I don't know if the same applies here. ANyway, I'll take a gander at the parking brake setup and see if I can adjust that in till it bites.

Amen to that! Nice tractor/loader you have there.

Now there there is one cool Good Ole Boy. We learned a funny thing when we took our Lemon Beagle Emma out on our boat few yrs. ago. My son was getting into the tube to be pulled around and Emma started hootin and hollerin as only a Beagle can do. We were all like what the heck is her problem? When she wouldn't stop I just picked her up and tossed her in the tube with my son and it all stopped. you could see the smile on her face. We learned that day that she loves to go tubin and she likes to go fast... She's a Good Ole Girl...

Although I am not 100% sure, I believe I used the VHT when I painted the Nelson on my 312-8 almost 3 years ago. Paint has held up damn good. I have no rust, but the coating has "grayed" to to an extent, and looks thin. Figure a light sanding to rough the surface and a repaint every few years will keep it looking good and preserved for the foreseeable future. Small price to pay considering the cost of a comparable replacement.

So where are the pics? ?? Nice Tom ...reminds me of @953 nut 's patina

Today was the day the raider lived again! . After sitting for 2 years it runs and drives like new. Have to give @WHX8 "jim" a huge thank you for helping me tare the carb apart and clean it real good, drained gas and started. Did oil change also did transmission fluid, which also wasn't bad neither. Had to change chain on the blower being it was stretched but also found out one of the bearings needs to be changed for the blower so I'll have to find that, but everything works as should, can't wait to get this horse out and have some fun!!!

Nice score. Looks great. Tears in windows are not an issue here. Plenty of Amish upholstery shops not far off and they are reasonable. Maybe some in your area?

Are you sure about the two bolts? I bet if ya crawl under it you will see two more bolts going up thru the frame into the bottom of the motor. Mike.....

I am not sure on the wiring of any of the other model of Wheel Horse tractors, but on the C175, and I am pretty sure this is true of the smaller C-series of the same vintage, ALL of the voltage from the battery runs through a single wire through the ammeter to the switch. The only circuit outside of the battery-ammeter-switch is the starter circuit (actually it is in circuit, but in another leg). In point of fact, pretty much all vehicle electrical circuits that employ an ammeter use similar wiring. The reason has to do with what an ammeter does, versus a voltmeter. A voltmeter only measures electrical "pressure", while an ammeter measures electrical "volume". To better understand electricity and current flow, think of electricity as water. In water you have the pressure that moves it (pounds per square inch), and the volume, or how much water is going past a given point in time (gallons per minute). In electricity, voltage is the driving force that propels the individual electrons along, and is much like PSI, but is measured in volts. The number, or quantity of electrons moving past a given point in time, commonly called current, is measured in amperes (amps). One amp is equal to 6.2X10 to the 18th power of electrons flowing per second. That is a lot of the little buggers. To recap then, voltmeters measure pressure, or volts, and ammeters measure current in amps, or the quantity of electron flow. Simple. To accurately measure the flow of current in a circuit with an ammeter, you need to have all of that current flow through the ammeter first. You don't have this restriction with a voltmeter, as you can place the voltmeter anywhere in the circuit that allows it to measure the voltage of the battery. Of the two meters, the ammeter is the most useful. Not only can you tell immediately if your charging system is working or not, you can also get a good idea of what circuit is at fault if you have a short. Example: Tractor starts fine, and the current draw looks normal. If when the the starter is released the meter goes into, or stays in the negative (to the left of zero), you immediately know you are not charging. If it charges OK, but drops to the negative when the headlights are turned on, then you know you have a dead short somewhere in the light circuit. With a voltmeter, if you are not charging, it will take some time before the meter registers the drop in voltage as the battery is becoming depleted. Dead shorts will look the same way, and there isn't any way to determine where the short is, other than tracing the circuit with a multimeter. As we are all aware, voltmeters are used on all the newer tractors, while ammeters were employed with the older models. The reason is that voltmeters are the cheaper of the two to make. What this has to do with Glenn's sudden dead tractor problem, is that on tractors with an ammeter like his, the first thing to check is if there is voltage coming out of the ammeter to the switch. If there is, then you should probably look at the ignition switch, then all those miserable little safety interlock switches. I had the same issue with my C175 last week. Suddenly went dead. Found that the posts on the ammeter were corroded and not making good contact. A side problem was the corrosion had built up sufficiently that current was occasionally arcing from the posts to the meter mounting strap, thus blowing the 25 amp inline fuse. I posted this long missive so that others who have issues with their electrical system will have a little better understanding of how they are wired, and work. Once you have the basics, troubleshooting these tractors is really pretty easy, and do not take very long at all. Glad you found your problem Glenn, and you are making excellent progress. That machine is really looking fine now.

I've always been an advocate of buying the belt from your local WH/Toro dealer if possible. It avoids all the hassle that you went thru Gary. Mike....

I love 'em all ... It's sort of funny , for a lot of years I was about the only one that owned a 1277 , then had two....now they are coming out of the woodwork again , lol . I sold this one earlier this year - My steadfast worker and my first 'Horse... I also have a '74 C-160 (bad rod, block is cracked - not rebuildable, need to find an engine) , '73 16 Auto (current mower/worker) and a '74 D-180 w/6-1142 56" blade . Every one of them can out work just about anything short of a compact farm tractor around here... Sarge

Here are a couple for some fall months The good old 856

Well I painted the front rims today with Rustoleum Canvas White and I second the experience cited by Red Ranger. It is as close to original as I have found.

You can't go wrong with adding MORE POWER!!

"BIG BLOCK" ... would look good in there !

Yes it's my son Ewan's cc70, pretty rare here. Unfortunately he turned to the yellow side 18 months ago...