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Found this for sale at our steam and gas show this weekend it was found in a building upstairs that use too be a wheel horse dealer in Purcellville, Va

7-30-2003 Last classic VW Beetle rolls off the line On this day in 2003, the last of 21,529,464 Volkswagen Beetles built since World War II rolls off the production line at Volkswagen’s plant in Puebla, Mexico. One of a 3,000-unit final edition, the baby-blue vehicle was sent to a museum in Wolfsburg, Germany, where Volkswagen is headquartered. The car produced in Puebla that day was the last so-called “classic” VW Beetle, which is not to be confused with the redesigned new Beetle that Volkswagen introduced in 1998. (The new Beetle resembles the classic version but is based on the VW Golf.) The roots of the classic Beetle stretch back to the mid-1930s, when the famed Austrian automotive engineer Dr. Ferdinand Porsche met German leader Adolf Hitler’s request for a small, affordable passenger car to satisfy the transportation needs of the German people Hitler called the result the KdF (Kraft-durch-Freude)-Wagen (or “Strength-Through-Joy” car) after a Nazi-led movement ostensibly aimed at helping the working people of Germany; it would later be known by the name Porsche preferred: Volkswagen, or “people’s car.” The first production-ready Kdf-Wagen debuted at the Berlin Motor Show in 1939; the international press soon dubbed it the “Beetle” for its distinctive rounded shape. During World War II, the factory in Kdf-stat (later renamed Wolfsburg) continued to make Beetles, though it was largely dedicated to production of war vehicles. Production was halted under threat of Allied bombing in August 1944 and did not resume until after the war, under British control. Though VW sales were initially slower in the United States compared with the rest of the world, by 1960 the Beetle was the top-selling import in America, thanks to an iconic ad campaign by the firm Doyle Dane Bernbach. In 1972, the Beetle surpassed the longstanding worldwide production record of 15 million vehicles, set by Ford Motor Company’s legendary Model T between 1908 and 1927. It also became a worldwide cultural icon, featuring prominently in the hit 1969 movie “The Love Bug” (which starred a Beetle named Herbie) and on the cover of the Beatles album “Abbey Road.”

If your 312 has the hydraulic lift, it should have the better Eaton 1100 tranny. The manual lift will have the weaker Eaton 700. Either should handle any load if the trannys are good. The limiter in towing is usually traction. My first test when I buy any hydro tractor is to chain it to a tree and make sure it will spin the tires in forward and reverse. Be very careful when using a small tractor to move a heavy load. Braking and flipping can be very dangerous.

You are not going to hurt that hydro pulling 300 lbs. You could chain that horse to a tree and the rear tires would just start digging into the ground.

While the sediment bowl is stock and looks cool,I would eliminate it and install an inline shut off and a filter. I never met a sediment bowl that didn't leak!

If a Craftsman pulled the trailer, you should be able to double the weight and a Wheel Horse do he job....JMHO!

I'd go with the 85/140 full synthetic from Wal-Mart . I've been running their SuperTech branded oils in my gearboxes / differentials for a few years now in the 4 wheeler . It's inexpensive & meets the specs however I do change them (more) frequently (than required). My $0.02. My general thinking is , (even) cheap / clean oil beats expensive dirty oil , hands down .

My son moving gravel in driveway with his "new" c175 and neighbors boys trying to steal my c195 and me seeing if I can upload pics.

Very good advice....When towing on an incline, the towing vehicle should weigh as much as the towed vehicle. My experience... I routinely used my Commando 8 to move my 23' 6000lb boat into and out of my barn for winter storage. All flat smooth pavement and I had no problems until the day I was pulling the boat out of the barn and one of the rear trailer wheels contacted the corner of a 2X4 that I didn't see. The Commando did a back flip faster than I could depress the clutch. Luckily the extended hitch acted as a wheelie bar and held the tractor in a vertical position with one wheel spinning. After I realized I was still breathing, I shut off the tractor and headed for the house to change my shorts. I still move some heavy loads, but I always leave the trailer tongue jacks lowered to prevent another flip.

Basically these transmissions have remained the same all the way back to the three piece case units and Wheel Horse has been all over the board as far as what they suggest. At one time they even put out a service bulletin suggesting 40w oil. I've used Valvoline 80w90 for decades with no issues but like Digger said, keeping it clean is the important thing.

I’m sure a lot of you folks deal with McMaster Carr. They have tons of cool stuff. Early last week I was going through some old threads looking for information on a 5714 PTO spring for my 500 Special. If my aging gray matter serves me right I believe it was Buckrancher that mentioned a 9433K111 was a great replacement. I went ahead and ordered them. They come in a three pack. I did this on Tuesday and later that day got an email that they shipped. Outstanding! So, Wednesday morning I go to Ace Hardware and pick up a few things. Oh, oh…..my card was declined at checkout. I paid in cash and went home and called the card company. They saw suspicious activity and locked the card until they talked to us. A hassle but I love the way they keep tabs on things. Sure enough, there were two charges totaling over $300 that were fraudulent. Card gets cut up. The same thing happened to me less than two months ago. They stopped those two as well as the McMaster charge. I immediately called McMasters customer service and told them what happened and a new card was on the way. They said yes, the card was declined but they had already shipped out the springs. Odd that they shipped before running the card but that’s some sort of speedy service. I assured them that I would call back as soon as the new card arrives and get them paid and they were fine with that. Thursday morning a super duper express stops by with the new card. I call McMaster and get things settled. Later that day UPS drops off a box. Wow! Only two days to get my springs. I open it up to find a packing slip…………that’s it………just a packing slip………..no springs. So, I call them again. I got the same guy that I talked to when I first called them. He laughed and said they must have had a premonition that the card was going to be declined. They immediately sent out a replacement order and I’ll have them Tuesday. I just thought I’d share that with you. A bit of a hassle and embarrassment standing at the Ace register but all ends well. Outstanding service from McMaster Carr as well as the credit card company. Oh yea, I'll let you know how the springs work out.

Ok.. Definitely will consider the connectors when I get a closer look. I'm starting to get to that point now. I need to start getting the wiring into place here soon. I worked on the tractor pretty early this morning. I had my hands dirty by 7:15AM. I knew it was going to rain around noon today so I got an early start. I'm glad I did because as 10AM rolled around it became extremely hot humid. Unbearable. The paint doesn't hold up well either. Easily scratches. Soft. I got pretty much all of the tunnel back together and lubed the heck out of everything I could as it was assembled. Heres some pics from today.

I'm with Dick (I wonder if this will be censored). There's several other less drastic things you can try before you get out the torch. Most involve PB Blaster or some other true penetrating oil (not WD40), patience, time, maybe gentle tapping with a rubber mallet. There's several good threads on this topic here, I'll try to find one of my favorites and get back to you. -------- The censors have lightened up, nice.

Grainger is good for the common run of the mill stuff, but McMaster-Carr is the best for the hard to find things. can't beat them!

I love McMaster. My boss doesn't $$$$$$. He loves Grainger but they are big time rip offs most of the time and sell that Dayton junk. We're supposed to get special pricing. Well we do! A freeze stat at Grainger is $250 and $149 from Johnstone Supply! Whenever I need special hardware for my Horses I aways go McMaster. funny you can call them at 3 pm and next day it's on your dock. Some places I have to deal with take 2-3 weeeks.

Put the torch away and get out the drill! @Ed Kennell did a real good post on the process some time back. He drilled a few holes in the cast iron portion of the transmission that the pin runs through, drilled to the pin, applied several shots of PB Blaster ( or whatever treatment you like best) and then was able to drive the pin out.

Beware of inclines when using your garden tractors to tow heavy wheeled things like tri-hull fiberglass ski boats. In 1983 my father-in-law got to far down his inclined driveway and the force of gravity won. He had to jump off his Massey Ferguson 12 hp gear drive as it went sliding down the steep driveway with boat still attached into the neighbors mailbox and then into a drainage ditch. Boat OK, father-in-law OK Massey destroyed.

Probably very prudent advice, but I once jacked up a 10' X 16' wood framed storage building and put it on a flat bed utility trailer. Very early the next morning I pulled it out on to the road and towed it a quarter mile or so to a friends house (only had one car meet us and he about drove off the road watching. We were on flat ground (Florida) and in second gear so the brakes on the 1055 didn't have to work too hard. Wish I had taken some pictures, it was quite a sight. Weight on a flat surface with good rolling tires shouldn't be a big deal, like T-Mo said, got to be able to stop what you start! Also, remember that the stopping power on a is applied to the transmission and distributed to the tires through the differential, so the tire with the least traction will stop turning while the other will keep on rolling. If you get going too fast the load could push you causing you to jack-knife.

Don't make the mod yet. I'm not familiar with the bevel gear differential but I know they take a left and right axle. They are different lengths. I'd be more comfortable if someone here could post a picture of a bevel gear case.

That shoulder on the reverse idler goes down or towards the right side. There's some good differential shots in this thread. It's a 10 pinion unit but where you're talking about wouldn't matter.

Time to get serious with the 875. Parts all arrived this week... NEW Cole Hersee Ignition switch Voltage regulator Starter solenoid Going to make use of the wiring diagram 953 Nut provided and see if I can get the 875 fired up this weekend.

There may also be a screen in the tank...may pick up a can of SEA FOAM gas additive and add that to your tank...as per directions. This stuff is great.

thanks guys. heres the 502 but at the moment its apart. we are getting another trans for it tomorrow. keeps popping out of gear under loads it even pops out of reverse lol you probably seen post on mytractorforum too. but this magnum when i got it for dad fuel pump was out. so i had a fuel pump block off plate took it to local shop the drilled a hole in plate and tapped it with pipe threads well this magnum is running with the briggs pulse style fuel pump

While you have it apart it wouldn't be a bad idea to find some later shift rails that have the deeper neutral detent and use a 3/4" stop pin rather than the 11/16". The parts shouldn't be hard to find and you could even make the stop pin. The spring and balls are the same. That will virtually eliminate the possibility of it jamming in two gears.

The rule of thumb is, don't tow more than what you and the tractor weigh. If the weight of what's being towed is greater than you and the tractor, then stopping becomes a problem, even on flat surfaces. Plus, that way you won't overtaxed the hydro in your tractor if you follow this rule of thumb. Yeah, it may tow more, but that would be my advice.

Hi Fellas... I managed to get a few nor pieces put together today after work. I'm heavily relying on all the pictures I have taken for reassembly. There is a lot going on in that tunnel and referring to pics makes it much quicker. I'm trying to decide whether to remake the wiring harness or just use what I have. The existing seems to be in pretty good shape but I remember reading someone re did theirs and used marine grade wire. I'd like to have that. My engine is very greasy and dirty. I suppose I will have spray it with mineral spirits and wire brush it. Then power wash it. Then I'll paint it the best I can. Here are some pics from today.

I acquired this tractor a couple of years ago from a guy who thought it was a John Deere round fender. I currently have 31 lawn & garden tractors in my collection, all John Deere's, and nothing newer than 1973. I wasn't going to buy this tractor due to it being a Wheel Horse, however since it's an RJ and my youngest son's name is Ryan James, I figured I'd bring it home. Yes, this is the only "red" machine that I own. Anyway, once it was home, I took the tractor completely apart due to limited storage space in my garage, never thinking to snap a couple of pictures first, so sorry guys, I have nothing for you to compare it too when it's done. I'm slowly finding all of the parts and pieces, so as I do, I'll update as I go along. Here is what I started with July of last year. Each piece is getting completely stripped, primed, and first coated for now. I'll get to wet sanding and additional coats of finish later when all of the parts can be done together at the same time. As you can see, this RJ was repainted green at some point in it's life time, however I'm hoping to make it look as good as it would have been off of the showroom floor. I have the lift arm, front axle, rear wheel hubs, brake band, and a few other small little pieces stripped and primed. These pieces hung for a few days then were lightly sanded with a brown paper bag, and re-coated again with primer. I also spent the extra time tapping off the brake band.

Hi everyone... It's time again for the fall Mentone Show & Swap Meet... The dates for the show & swap are Friday Sept16th and Sat Sept 17th. Both days there will be breakfast and lunch items available to purchase. There will be a raffle to help support the cost of using the park and paying for any associated items to keep the show running. Ken Stephens and I are looking forward to people bringing their tractors to show, pretty and shiny or rough and rusty!!! Also bring any items you'd like to sell or trade, tractors, tractor parts or even the kitchen sink! Note: there is a $5.00 per day fee for selling your items. Again to help pay for things to keep the spring swap and fall show and swap going.Also there will be camping allowed and you can even bring your stuff to set up Thursday the 15th if you'd like. There is no electricity available at this time. The address for the event is:3519 S State Road 19 Mentone IndianaNote: it is north of State Road 25. GPS May take you south of 25 FYIIf anyone has any questions please contact either Ken at 574-607-7694 or me at 513-319-3640Hope to see everyone there!!!

Next on my list - change the rear end fluid in my C-161. The service manual says SAE 140 (although my Intertec manual says 90w), which turns out to be just about impossible to find. The tractor has a FEL, so it won't be going very fast, nor it be running long stretches, like lawn mowing. Would it be safe to use something more common, like 85w140, or some synthetic 75w90 that I have laying around? Thanks in advance!

Well not wheel horse but I kinda wanted the bolens and plan on selling the rest!

Lots of good stuff for the flea market; generate come $$$ to buy .

It is never too late to see the light ( RED light that is!)

That sign looks like new.

Not only does your tow vehicle need to weight more than what you're towing for stopping purposes, but also it's important when towing up a hill. If not, this can happen.

Here is a vendor for the hitch you want. As for the snap ring, Have you replaced it with a new one? Also, if you jack it up how much plat do you have on the left sode compared to the right? http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/141-wheelhorseman1000s-hitches-brackets-parts-and-more/

After posting that I was afraid I may have mislead Dells. I'm interested to see what Mike has to say.

I think we need @racinfool40 ( Mike) to hop in here. I know he has taken these apart and put them back together...I have not. Mike may even have parts to replace the ones that are screwed up. I sent Mike a PM. Might be a day or so for him to show up. I can call him if you are in a great hurry.

Think I'm getting closer to sorting my trans out guys. Great information and experience on here to pull from! I love the look of these old 953 and 1054 tractors!!

I was wondering about that myself. It is machined back about 1/8" in comparison to the visible end. Also the part of the diff that goes into the ball bearings in the case was damaged and repaired by the previous owner. He added a piece to the diff to match the collar on the other side, but both sides are hitting on the shoulder that goes against the bearings in the case and preventing it from closing up by about the amount he added. I think this shoulder may need to be removed or I may have to get another differential. It had been used to pull boats at a marina in Florida and I bet he tried to pull too big of a boat and damaged that side of the differential.

One of the Pull Bars I fabricated for a job they were wondering what color to paint it??? I said how about Wheel Horse Red. Guess I have a little pull around here...

I agree!!!!! used it to remedy a snow blower. will update you all...thanks

Exactly, I use to do the same thing myself using nothing more than a 1968 Lawn Ranger. In fact, once I chained a Chevy 350 engine complete with heads and internals laying on the ground to the same LR and drug it across the yard to my engine hoist. That was dead weight too, not rolling weight.

Just for kicks, can you take a picture of the other end of your reverse idler?? I'm thinking you might have that gear upside down.

I used to tow my 20` boat out of the Garage with a 1057. I have a picture some where.. And my first introduction to Wheel Horse [ early 80`s} was a boat dealer that I did business with early 60 vintage model. He used to move large boats around on the show room floor. I believe they where smaller cruisers 20` and above. Boy could you snake in a trailer with a tractor. Nice tight fit. that is my .

I have not taken time yet to see if there is anything I can do to reduce the noisey PTO. Candidly, I'm soooo happy that it is not the engine that I've started to disregard the sound. I have to repeat what I've said a number of times. This forum is a great place!!! Everyone is so practical and willing to help out. It is rare to find a bunch of "practitioners" who demonstrate such effective problem solving skills, good humor, and no ego or motive other than just helping each other out. I have to imagine that there is something about the Wheel Horse product/brand, that attracts a bunch of us with these characteristics. Along with the technology of this multi-media site, this is just a great place to listen, learn, and tune our toys.

I went route of marine grade re-wire. If your wiring is good then it is a toss up as I don't think the wiring takes much abuse. However, the connectors seem to reach a fatigue or corroded state so you may want to consider new crimp connectors.

The Z-bend tool is a must....Denny Clarke turned me on to this tool a couple years ago. one of the handiest tools I've bought for working on my tractors.

I think that Terry is on to something. It does look like you are in 2 gears at the same time. You have the bevel gear differential, and I have not been into one of these, but they work the same as all the other Wheel Horse transmissions. I think you should see a notch on each of the shift rails above the casting and form the square with the shift forks to be in neutral (ask if you do not understand this). Then put one of the shift rails up or down at a time an turn the input shaft to see if the gears are doing what they are supposed to do. Do this with both shift rails to make sure you have this together right. From what I can see from your pictures...you have it together right. Move the shift forks, one at a time, to find the center notch and that would be neutral. Let us know.

7-29-1958 President Eisenhower authorizes creation of NASA On this day in 1958, President Dwight D. Eisenhower signs an act that creates the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA). He called the signing an [sic] historic step, further equipping the United States for leadership in the space age. Since the end of World War II, the United States had worked to make breakthroughs in rocket science. This particular legislation expanded the original National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics (NACA) into NASA. NASA research, which was generously funded by Eisenhower’s successors, John F. Kennedy and Richard Nixon, was responsible for successful and groundbreaking American achievements such as the Apollo 11 lunar landing in 1969 and the development of the space shuttle, first launched in 1981. More recently, NASA has sent robotic exploratory missions to Mars and launched a spacecraft to view Pluto. NASA’s research has also contributed to advances in consumer-oriented goods such as telecommunications satellites and computer technology. Although NASA currently engages in cooperative projects with other nations, Eisenhower at the time had to add a cautionary note when signing the legislation that created the new agency. He warned that NASA’s research into peaceful projects could be shared only when international treaties outlining such projects were authorized first by the president and the U.S. Senate. Ike, the former Army general who oversaw the Allied invasion of Normandy in World War II, wanted to ensure that NASA would not share information that was vital to national security.

Definitely unique, great mobile workbench... I think it's pretty cool.