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Took Grandpa's tractor out of the shed for some sunlight after 2 years of sitting, nothing rare about this one other than it was Grandpa's, was a worker now a looker. Just thought I'd share some pics.

Picked a nice 702 today, runs great but the shifter is loose, hope not a big deal. Came with headlights and hydro. i did had to take the Sears on the deal also.

Mother Mature created a little work for the horses on Tuesday. She broke one of the three main limbs off my 50 year old chestnut tree. Luckily it was not over the house, but the other two were and they also looked weak so I took all of them down. I left the stump because it supports my hammock. I used the F-150 to pull the limbs away from the house. Then I needed a brush hauler, a wood hauler, a sweeper and a splitter mover, The poor Finches watched in bewilderment as the tree that held their feeders disappeared. Before I I took a break for a cold drink I temporarily hung the feeder on the hammock chain, they began feeding right away. Now I need to come up with a way to hang the feeders. I'm thinking an iron wagon wheel on top of the stump with the feeders hanging from the spokes.

We are working on some new signs to bring this year. Here is one 6 x 24 aluminum design. Thanks for the idea Craig

6-9-2006 “Cars” released On this day in 2006, the animated feature film “Cars,” produced by Pixar Animation Studios, roars into theaters across the United States. For “Cars,” which won the first-ever Academy Award for Best Animated Feature, Pixar’s animators created an alternate America inhabited by vehicles instead of humans. The film’s hero is Lightning McQueen (voiced by Owen Wilson), a Corvette-like race car enjoying a sensational debut on the National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing (NASCAR) circuit. Arrogant and foolish, with talent to burn, McQueen thinks of himself as a one-man show. After he refuses a tire change during the prestigious Piston Cup race, McQueen blows a huge lead, setting up a three-way tie-breaking race with The King, a longtime champion, and Chick Hicks, an intimidating competitor with a chip on his shoulder. On the way to the race site in California, however, McQueen goes off course (and off the interstate) and ends up in Radiator Springs, a forgotten town on the now-defunct Route 66. At first desperate to escape, McQueen learns to appreciate Radiator Springs, especially after finding a best friend (the rusting tow-truck Mater, as in Tow-Mater), a love interest (Sally Carrera, a fetching Porsche) and a mentor (it turns out the town’s gruff doctor-mechanic, Doc Hudson, is actually the Hudson Hornet, a real-life NASCAR legend). Among the other memorable inhabitants of Radiator Springs are an aging hippie VW van; a military Jeep named Sarge; Flo, a glamorous show car and proprietress of the V-8 Café (a gas station); Ramon, a Chevy Impala low rider; and Guido, a Fiat who owns a tire shop and is obsessed with Ferraris. As director John Lasseter told The New York Times, he was inspired to make “Cars” by a cross-country road trip he took with his wife and five sons, as well as by a general love of automobiles. While researching the movie, the team of animators traveled along the historic Route 66, once the iconic route to the American West and now bypassed by interstate highways. (The “Mother Road” was decertified in 1985 and has been reborn as a tourist attraction.) In addition to the painstaking depictions of both classic and modern cars and their distinctive personalities, “Cars” features the voices of some of the leading figures in auto racing, beginning with the late Paul Newman, the legendary actor-turned-race car driver, as Doc Hudson. Racing legends Mario Andretti (as himself), Richard Petty (as The King) and Michael Schumacher (as a Ferrari) can also be heard, along with sports announcers Darrell Waltrip and Bob Costas.

Looks like it was used to cut the grass on the basketball court in Harlem.

You'll need a cape, tights, and a magic lasso to operate that thing.

Went down to my friend's tire shop and had the old tires taken off the rims. Able to see the color they started out as. Kinda like a Time Capsule from 1965.

Some of the C series had an earlier Eaton Hydro and some had the Sundstrand hydro. The oil filter points towards the rear for the Eaton and towards the side for the Sundstrand. Both good, but many on here prefer the Eaton The 520H reference above has the later Eaton 1100 which is the crown jewel of hydro's The 1978-79 C161 had a metal hood early in production and a fiberglass hood later in production.

Neither is better, both are very capable tractors with basically the same design but with a few differences. I think the C-161 has a shaker plate for the engine which means it uses a special oil pan. Pick the one with a better engine

If Evel Kneivel ever jumped a Wheel Horse, well...................................

Prondzy is excellent people. You will not go wrong dealing with Mike...and his dad is coming to the show.

The Eaton Hydrostatic transmission didn't appear on the C-series until 1980 with the C-125, C-145 and C-165. Both the C-160 and C-161 will either have the 8 speed Wheel Horse gear transmission or the Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission.

Don't take a chance buy both tractors one for mowing one for snow work , that way you don't have to change attachments. Plus you would be on your way to being a addict. By the way welcome to

Lots of our tractors have been repainted, this one just had a bit of creativity used in the process. That would make it a custom, bring it to the Big Show.

No not factory, but It is a Wheel Horse and that's what counts!

Thank you so much guys! I haven't been chiming in because I haven't received any notifications for this thread! I am very thankful for all of you're opinions and offers to help me Out on bringing stuff to the big show for me and offering to sell me some horses real cheap to get me started! Jim has offered me a 1276 for a really fair price and I think I'm gonna try and get it, I am really impressed with how willing you guys are to help a kid out trying to get started in this hobby and I appreciate it! I'll keep you guys posted on what's going on and now I will monitor this thread closer

Jesse, Cleat here is the best method to check the current drawn by your test lights. Mine checks out at about 120 milliamps or 0.120 amps. This amperage will certainly not strain the ignition module even when used in conjunction with the ignition coil. I have seen some test lights where the user had replaced out a defective bulb with a much higher powered car dome light that draws significantly more amperage. Note, the meter is set to read in amps with the positive lead in the designated AMPS socket. Don't forget to switch the positive lead back to the VOLTS socket and function switch back to OFF when you are finished with this test.

The module absolutely needs a good ground. The BLACK wire from the module IS NOT A GROUND WIRE, The black wire from the ignition module performs the same function as the wire coming from the points to the coil negative post on a K series ignition - the wire BECOMES GROUNDED when the points close or the ignition module is triggered by the magnets in the trigger ring. When the second magnet in the trigger ring passes the ignition module, the black wire becomes an open circuit - just as in the points based K series ignition. The metal tab on the ignition module is the module GROUND. The heat insulator does isolate the metal tab from the engine block but the metal bolts thru the tab to the engine block establish the ground to the ignition module. As long as the module metal tab is grounded with the mounting screws, the insulator not an issue. Yes, the insulator can be too thick and displaced the ignition module nose too far away from the trigger ring. Try one thickness of the gasket material. The reason I steered you away from paper or rubber is to prevent paper from becoming wet and disintegrating when you hosed the tractor down and possibly sucked water into the module area. Paper would compress / disintegrate, loosen the module on the block and cause future issues. Same with Silicone or rubber, eventually they would compress and loosen the mounting bolts and result in an intermittent ground. Compressed asbestos-like material would be best and mimics the OEM material.

Jess, bench testing the modules is probably not valuable to you as your issue has never been a no start condition. We know the modules work , but only for 20 minutes. Unless you pulled out a hair dryer and heated the modules up, bench testing is not going to help us here. I'll put together a quick movie in the next few days to show the off tractor test setup and how the module and trigger ring interact.

I realize that you are concentrating on the ignition system ,but just for the heck of it, take a look at the fuel shutoff valve mounted in your tank. Could you have dirt in the tank which collects on the screen or a screen that is collapsing? Just something little that you might want to look at. Cheap to replace too. If you do get a new grommet with it.

I kinda` like the paint job, but tights are out of the question...

Well I have been working like a mad man to get this RJ ready for the Big Show... of course I could not stay the course and had to make things as difficult as possible... meaning I decided to build another RJ25... located another Model 8 Briggs... waited nearly three weeks for it to show up... spent a fortune on parts to rebuild it (anyone and everyone who has rebuilt one knows)... and nearly complete with the paint... its going to be a Fast-N-Loud situation to the finish dead line...

Just told the wife we were gonna paint her Commando like this...she was quick to respond with a very strong NO!!! lol

Not factory but, American. Great for the 4th of July! Any local parades you might fly in wearing a Captain America costume of course? A son? Super Boy of course!

By now I hope you know two things: 1. It's not a factory paint job, and 2. We have way too much time on our hands...

I'm thinking wonder woman or captain america...

I am looking s getting a used tractor . i would like to know the differences between a C-160 and a C-161 Both with the 1 cyl. Koehler motor which is the better tractor

There was some talk awhile back about fuel line. I just thought I would show you what I use. With this engine it is not an option. Some of you thought this was a little high in $$$ but I have been using this for about 4 years with no problems. The old saying is pay me know or pay later. Just my The price was for 2' of line.

Like your very own four tree service.

Glad you are okay, like the picture of the finches and your shoe.Looks like you were making use of the hammock.

That is a very nice 702. You will like that HY-2 lift on there is you move snow. That sears really makes the 702 look great.

RED SQUARE POWER

The clevis hitch was not designed originally for the short frame tractors the slot hitch was however they do fit.I've had quite a few guys that bought my clevis hitch instead of the adapter. Here is a picture of a clevis hitch on a 702 .

, to RED SQUARE ... aka Horseoholics Anonymous , Wheel Horse Addiction Center , The Wheel Horse Rehab Institute , i'm sure I'm missing some others ? . Do you have any pics of these fine steeds. We all love ! Elcamion has the right idea we all know what's going to happen anyways.

Buy the one you like the best, and to the forum RICH.

I have had a 520H "Hydro" or automatic as some call it since new in 1998 I have almost abused this little tractor and no problems as of yet with handling the heavy work of plowing tilling blowing ect, it has hydraulic lift which will be well appreciated for lifting a heavy snow blower or rear mounted tiller ect these hydro trans were put in the biggest of the garden tractors which is the 520 or the newer TORO Xi series so if they weren't better in some respects vs the manual transmission they wouldn't have used them behind 20+ hp twin cylinder engines as well as 3 cyl diesel with 40+ lbft of torque my , and I can't comment on the foot pedal control have no issues with the column mounted motion control lever but after 18 years of use it's pretty much 2cd nature by now, the C160 is all metal body and the C161 has fiberglass if it's the "BLACK HOOD" still all either will be a fine tractor if taken care of,Jeff. BTW attachments are easily found here on the east coast and not to pricey for the 70s-90s B C 3/4/500 series horses and all fit across board for the most part.

Check the keys in the axle hubs first and

Well I do have this one as a tie breaker... She is not much to look at but pushes snow like no other!

Great information ! especially for a new comer to Wheel Horse. If you hear of any good snowblowers in the CT. area please pass it on to me. Thanks again, Rich

Grab it before someone else does now that people will know there's one for sale in your area. They're plenty big enough and those tractors are designed for ground engaging attachments. A true garden tractor, not just a lawn mower. The 16 HP engines work very well for blowing snow and will handle up to a 48 inch deck. Condition of the deck makes a huge difference in price. I've sold working 48 inch decks for $75 but have seen some nice ones sell for as much as $400 Average single stage Snowblower is around $200, give or take on condition.

Someone will come through with a tractor for you I'm sure. There are a great bunch of folks here! Red Square is the best forum ever! I'm wishing you the best in you hunt.

Just messaged him about it! Thanks!

OK, so that works... we'll look for the guy with the lasso, wearing a cape... at the big show.

That is correct. I'm not sure what the airflow is behind the flywheel and if the module enjoys any level of forced air cooling during engine operation. The module will be exposed to elevated temperatures from the block - probably 10's of degrees higher than the oil temperature in the block. The module is also likely to be exposed to "heat soak" issues when the tractor is shut down while the engine is hot and all air cooling is lost from the flywheel. The heat insulator would delay radiant heat transfer to the module while the engine was cooling down. Conductive heating would be present thru the module mounting bolts - no practical way to eliminate that. Best case scenario is if you mount the insulator, you issue may be cured - or at least you may start to see 30 - 40 - 50 minute runs before shutdown. This will confirm we have made a change to the predictable 20 minute shutdown cycle. IF the ignition module is compromised and still shuts off after 40 -50 minutes, you may be forced to try to put the old module back in and give it a try before buying another module. Hopefully the insulator makes a noticeable change or even cures your issue. I was rolling around the thought of "misting" the air screen area with water while the tractor was nearing its 20 minute shutdown - to see if the shutdown time was extended or disappeared. Just tossing out ideas. I have no idea what the airflow looks like behind the flywheel.

I Ran ground to neg post from block good , one less connection to question. I have 3.5 OHMS on the Harley coil and 3.8 OHMS on the original Onan coil both are electrically similar and within published Onan primary resistance spec's. I would guess the Harley coil did not fry the ignition module. I took my test light and hooked 1 of the alligator clips to the positive side of the battery and the other to the negative post of the coil . The light stayed on ? yes, with the engine off and the ignition switch on, the off tractor testing I did indicated the ignition module powers up with current flowing thru the ignition coil. The coil being charged up when the ignition key powers up the module is probably intentional so the engine doesn't have to crank over too many times to get the first spark from the coil. No real issues so far. Question - you mentioned "one of the alligator clips" - does your test light have more than one clip ? I'm going to post another image later this morning on how to check how much current your test light draws. This may be a factor in why it causes a running engine to die. The tractor would not start with the test light hooked up so I removed it and it started right up but as soon as I try and connect the test lead to the coil the tractor would die Interesting and unexpected. When I used this procedure to test my ignition modules, it was on an engine that already had a dead coil, It never ran to begin with so obviously I never experienced an issue with the test light causing the engine to "die" when the light was connected. Interesting. Question - did the test light flash while the engine was cranking? All said and done, that was the visual indication we need to check the module. Flashing during cranking is all we really need to check the module when it dies after 20 minutes of running. I took my meter and read the OHMS on the 2 ignition module Red & Blk leads and got around 18.69 OHMS just for the heck of it . Is this something I should be getting ? I read OHMS to ground on each of the same 2 wires I get 3.5 on the Red and nothing on the Blk . Does this mean my new ing module is shot or is this the way the position of rotor might be at the time . Ohms testing on an transistorized electronic circuit is typically meaningless. Ohms measurement may be useful if the module is completely shorted and you get a 0 ohms reading, but in a transistorized module, even swapping the meter leads on the same two wires of the module can give completely different readings. As evidence of this, consider how we check a diode for proper function. Same diode device, ohmmeter reads completely opposite readings when the leads are swapped - and that's normal and anticipated to happen. Add to this a meter to meter difference in the voltage applied to the device used on the ohm meter function range and you will easily see different brands of ohmmeters will show different ohm readings. The same meter will also show different readings on the same transistorized device as you switch the meter between different resistance ranges on the meter! I have no data on how an ignition module should read with an ohmeter. I have one used spare module and another in a "one of these days years I'll get to it 520H. Should I just order another new ing module and rotor and start there again ? I'm going to go out and pull it apart and get the flywheel off and see if I can see anything in there again? If you can wait until this weekend, I know I have a spare (used) trigger ring (white color). If you want to try it with my spare ignition module, I can ship those out to you next week. I know I won't be needing them for some time. The 520H is low on my list of things to do before retirement.

Here's a few pics that I took quick with my phone. I haven't ever posted pics from my phone before, so I hope it works well. The slotted piece out the front is left from trying to lift it with the mower lift bar. It needs to be removed and cleaned up then painted.

I like rawness...

Actually I think it was Case.

did I really need to post in this thread