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Hi all this my latest project which is nearing completion it's a Wheelhorse C175 with two driven axles at the rear and a driven steering ache at the front it is powered by a two cylinder Kubota engine , power steering this has taken me nearly two yrs to think about and build Meadofield was my inspiration after seeing and driving C4 and Bendy il post more build pics in due course

This tractor was my first round hood that I purchased back in 2008 (maybe 2007) from VinsRJ. I restored it for my son and it was his first wheel horse he rode. At the time I knew that white was the correct color for the 58 wheels but liked the look of the red. Anyhow I finally decided to change the color to Antique White Rusto. Paint is drying now. I mounted a NOS set of diamond tread Bridgestones I recently picked up on a set of rims. Not sure if they are going on the RJ or if I am going to repaint the red rears and keep the original Silverton ags on it. Tomorrow I will mount them up and decide then.

Lord, I pray that you will guide the medical personnel attending to Mark giving him a swift and complete recovery from this tragic accident. Please be with Mark's family and give them comfort. I ask this in the name of Jesus Christ; amen.

Here's my what's in my mirror last night (had to take it from outside the truck otherwise you wouldn't see it) Barn find c160 with ark 550 loader

GOT HOME LAST NIGHT GOT THE OLD HORSE OUT OF THE GARAGE .STARTED MOWING THE BACK YARD ,MADE 2 LAPS AROUND THE YARD ON THE THIRD PAST GOT TO CLOSE TO THE EDGE OF A SMALL SHELF BEHIND MY LP TANK & BAM TRACTOR ON TOP OF FAT BOY! SOMEHOW I MANAGED TO PUSH THE TRACTOR AWAY FROM ME FAR ENOUGH TO GET MY LEG OUT FROM BETWEEN THE REAR FENDER AND THE LP TANK.MOTOR RUNNING/BLADES RUNNING.RAN AROUND LP TANK MANAGED TO SHUT KEY OFF ,AND THERE SHE SET ALL FOUR WHEELS IN THE AIR. I WENT GOT MY NEIGHBOR AND WE GOT IT ROLLED IT BACK OVER. TRACTOR TURNED OUT TO BE FIND.MAN THEM THINGS ARE TOUGH &HEAVY.LOL !!!!ALLS GOOD LONG STORY SHORT PUT DECK BACK ON IT ADDED OIL CLEANED AIR FILTER AND FINISHED MOWING !!!!!

A quick video of its abilities to climb

Incredible. Here's some more info and pics.http://www.warbirdsnews.com/warbird-articles/wwiis-b-17-all-american-separating-fact-fiction.html

Hey Jesse, good to see you're back at the 518 issue. You are getting like me, everything takes two years anymore. Some random thoughts for you on the twenty minute run issue. I'm sure your head is swimming in all the help and opinions being offered on "what to replace next". You know from working with me before I do not suggest random replacement of parts on a "guess" and I treat other peoples' money as if it were my own. So, a few comments and then my suggestion for moving forward in the correct fashion on this fix. Harley Coil there are at least 3 different types of coils out on the market. For our purpose we will call them the 5 ohm coil, the 3 ohm coil and the 0.5 or "half ohm" coil. We can immediately take the "half-ohm" coil off the list of usable coils. These sub 1 ohm coils are STRICTLY for use in high energy electronically controlled automotive environments. Yes, the ignition module on the Onans are electronically controlled, but the ignition module in the Onan does not come close to the same level of design refinement seen in the automotive world. Measure the primary resistance of your Harley and Onan coils. They should be in the 3 to 5 ohm range. Stator / Regulator Do not pursue any further troubleshooting or parts replacement in the charging system. These parts only serve to keep the battery charged. A properly functioning battery should keep the 520 running for at least 1 hour even if the charge system were disconnected. I have read about your volt gauge reading being maxed out. Going forward, replacement of the voltmeter is a good idea. We need to keep an eye on the function of the regulator to assure the charge voltage doesn't skyrocket to over 16 volts. Excessive charge voltage not only will damage the battery, but can easily contribute to over stressing the ignition module. Higher voltage to the ignition module means more heat generated by the ignition module. And speaking oh heat ... Ignition Module Insulator Get one !! The last one I bought was less than $5. The addition of the insulator could very well resolve -or at least help - your problem. As a simple test, if you have access to hi temp gasket material sold at automotive stores, a homemade insulator one or two layers thick may give us some insight if heat is the root cause of your issue. Use the asbestos style compressed material for exhaust systems, not paper, rubber or Silicone. The gasket material must be rigid so it does not compress under tightening of the mounting bolts on the ignition module. 9 PIN Connector/ Jumper wires / Safety Switches. I never saw anyone mention to run a separate GROUND wire directly from the engine block back to the battery negative terminal. Bypassing the 12 volt pin in the connector by jumping the coil + to the battery + was mentioned several times but never the ground wire also located in the 9 pin connector. The ignition module needs both. Hopefully the block is grounded thru the negative battery cable, but you have to ask yourself why the Onan also has a ground wire thru the 9 pin also. Definitely worth a try. Any additional effort to bypass safety switches is just leading you in circles. The jumper from the battery to the ignition coil positive post eliminated all the wiring, ign switch. and safety switch concerns. Regulator black pigtail wire many engines that use this style of regulator mount the regulator into a plastic (un-grounded) engine shroud. The pigtail allows the metal regulator case to be grounded to the engine block by connecting this pigtail to a metal area of the engine block. It is not a bad idea to use this pigtail even on a metal shrouded engine. The ground to the regulator then does not depend on good contact between several metal shrouds to establish a good charging system ground to the regulator case. Trigger Ring Magnets Magnets tend not to lose and then regain their magnetism in 20 minutes. Think hard, when have your magnetized screwdrivers ever lost then regained their power. Weak or marginal magnets installed in black trigger rings during manufacturing - fine - that is believable. Losing and gaining magnetism - not sure anyone has seen that happen. My thoughts on how to proceed Place one jumper wire from the engine block to the battery NEGATIVE post. Grab your INCANDESCENT bulb test light. LED based testers will not work for this test. Start the tractor, run at idle. Connect the alligator clip of the test light to the POSITIVE - repeat POSITIVE battery terminal . Touch the test light to the coil NEGATIVE post and watch the lamp flash. The lamp will only flash ON briefly when the ignition coil grounds out the ignition coil. Run the engine throttle up and down and get very comfortable with the "look" of the flashing test light. This will set your visual baseline for a properly operating ignition module. While the engine is still running well, switch the alligator lead on the test light to the NEGATIVE battery lead. With the test lead wire going to the negative terminal, THE TEST LAMP WILL FLICKER OFF BRIEFLY on the ignition module grounding the coil. Choose which configuration you are more comfortable with. Hopefully you will be good with the testor wire lead connected to the POSITIVE battery lead, Some testers are quicker to respond than others due to various brands of bulbs used, so chose which method allows you to detect the flickering most clearing. Again, become very comfortable with the "look" of a properly running engine on the flickering tester. When the engine dies, hookup the tester to in the same configuration you feel most comfortable with and crank overt he engine while monitoring the coil negative post. Do not worry about the ignition coil POSITIVE terminal as any change in brightness there while cranking only shows how much your battery voltage is varying as the battery strains against the starter current - not a helpful observation. NO FLICKERING = bad ignition module FLICKERING just like when the engine was running OK = ignition module is still functioning. I would say I'm betting you will find the ignition module will be the cause of your issue., but let's check it out first and leave guessing for those with fatter wallets! I don't get much time anymore to do much online troubleshooting but I will stick with you on this one Jesse. BTW below is a slide showing the internal function of the ignition module. It is over simplified but shows the "guts" of the module are really nothing more than a magnetically controlled on and off switch that grounds the negative lead of the ignition coil. When one magnet in the trigger ring passes the nose of the module, the switch is turned on , whe the OPPOSITE pole magnet passes the nose, the internal switch is turned off and the coil fires a spark. Very simple - just like the mechanical points on the K series engines. Instead of a mechanical cam lobe, this circuit uses opposite polarity magnets to alternately turn on and then off a switch to power the ignition coil. For those of you playing at home and are more electronically inclined, the autopsy I performed years back on one of these modules reveled a Darlington pair BJT switch driver fed by a latched hall effect sensor mounted in the "nose" - about $2 worth of components just begging for someone to home-brew a replacement.

Saw this on Facebook the other day.

I must be the only one that appreciates all caps. My eyes aren't what they used to be even with glasses. Glad you are ok though. Could have been a whole lot worse.

Thank you all. Have just returned from the hospital, Marks fever has come down a little. Thankful for the little things right now, because when our lives become so small so fast, the little things ARE the big things. Combat Veteran here, I'm pretty good at keeping things all about business. Even now, though man when it's one of your own it's just different. Grace and peace, Mel and Cindy

Only 2 weeks from the long drive to the BIG SHOW and I am busy getting ready. Banners are printing and many other projects to finish in time to leave. The support members have set a new record. I have 55 requests for personalized banners for those attending. I few members who were planning to go have had issues come up that will prevent you from attending so when I get home I will contact you and arrange to send your banner to you. Very sorry that you will be unable to attend. For all those who are coming please do not forget to come by our booth as soon as possible we will be set up Thursday morning in the first barn. Hope someone brings a wide angle lens for the RS picture this year! See you all soon and have a safe trip. Terry Lola & Buddy

Hello, I am TIGman or better known as Tom. I am a Welder/ Boring Mill operator in a Tool & Die shop. Welding now for 19 years. TIG, MIG, Arc, Oxy-Acet. and Laser Welding. Have been in Tool & Die since late 70's

Saw this on Facebook, thought I'd share it here with y'all.

Is this PTO color better?

Glad to see your ok ! I'll have to make sure the boy still has all the safeties hooked up on my equipment . Believe me , I know. It's just that one moment of time , and you have no idea when it's going to happen to you . Try to keep it safe out there.

What a concept, I'm sure non of the rest of us can identify with that

Well for that kind of money it won't be in my garage....... You can bet your life on that!!!!

I'm not sure why you are yelling (the all capital letters indicates you are upset or angry), but glad you are alright.

It definitely will put my mind at rest if I know for sure what it was the cause of it all. Since all belts failed after all new parts were installed and the only untested theory is really the increased tension by moving idler forward ( I used an already damaged belt after that), I am going to get another brand belt hopefully a Toro and test that one . If no problems, I think it is safe to assume that tension was the problem. If it fails, I guess then we have to blame the belts.

Praying for God's complete and perfect healing for Mark, and peace and comfort for all of the family.

My prayers with you and yours and your son. Prayers work.

6-7-1976 New York magazine publishes the story that becomes Saturday Night Fever Disco as a musical style predated the movie Saturday Night Fever by perhaps as many as five years, but disco as an all-consuming cultural phenomenon might never have happened without the 1977 film and its multi-platinum soundtrack featuring such era-defining hits as the Bee Gees’ “Stayin’ Alive” and Yvonne Elliman’s “If I Can’t Have You.” What is absolutely certain is that Saturday Night Fever would never have been made were it not for a magazine article detailing the struggles and dreams of a talented, young, Italian-American disco dancer and his scruffy entourage in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn. That article—”The Tribal Rites of the New Saturday Night,” by journalist Nik Cohn—was published on this day in 1976 in the June 7 issue of New York magazine. In the blockbuster film that was based on the article, a young John Travolta turned the role of Tony Manero into a career-maker thanks to his own considerable talents, but the character Travolta played was brilliantly drawn by Nik Cohn before a frame of film was ever shot. From his style of dress and his job in the paint store, to his god-like status at the local disco and his vague dreams of escaping to something bigger, the young man named “Vincent” whose experiences Cohn reported on practically leaps off the page with his undirected ambition and otherworldly charisma. You can practically hear the Bee Gees singing “More Than A Woman” and picture “Vinnie” pointing to the sky in his platform shoes and white three-piece suit as you read Cohn’s profile, and you can certainly see why it caught the attention of Hollywood. There was just one problem, though, with the story that served as the source material for one of the biggest pop-cultural phenomena of the modern era: “The Tribal Rites of the New Saturday Night” was almost entirely fabricated.

Going on about 12 hours and new belt still intact. As incredible as it may seem and not knowing why yet, I am beginning to be confident belts were the issue. With everything changed I pretty much have a new deck now. This thing cuts really well. Its been a real battle. I think I am also going to stick with this brand of belt for everything now since it passed the durability test on the BEM here.

Let those turkeys grow out and trim them into 's. And yes,I looked at the seat first too!

these pics are some results of what the phosphoric acid did to some nuts bolts and a pulley.. I was happy with how it turned out, u can see a bolt at the top of the pile that was treated with just diesel. And the pulley has a line across the middle of it where u can see only half was in the phos, and though it wouldnt budge before it now spins. and heres some more pics that ill just say a pic says a thousand words.

Thanks Cheetah, I hope your friend didn't hurt himself when he fell to the floor Well Thursday was a very good day when a parcel containing custom decals arrived from Mark.. Perfect timing as it happened as all we had left to do was get WN off the bench and put some fluids in her.. So, a big Mark for the great decals, the cream rather than white works really well I guess now's a good point to do the "before and after" thing As arrived from Chris's collection.. The green engine wasn't part of the deal, I just needed somewhere to put it The same machine after a bit of work All I need now is a better seat...

As you may have figured out, we are addicted to and totally unapologetic about it. In your quest to get the 520 running I would suggest you download the attached manual and become familiar with it and then ask specific questions based on problems you encounter.

I'm in Oklahoma and these little tractors can be hard to find around here too but hang in there they can be found if you look hard enough ...just be forewarned they don't like being lonely and have a tendency to multiply I got my first one and within a couple months two more had jumped on the trailer and followed me home. You are definitely in the right place for any questions you may have.

My thoughts exactly...Better check them out - that's what the switches are for... Very glad you are OK!

Truth be known, a few of us have had garden tractors on top of us. Mine was a partial loss of traction going up a steep grade, when it caught traction it flipped over backward on top of me. This was a light weight MTD so I was able to crawl out quickly, Had it been a I might not have gotten off so well. Lesson learned, don't accelerate and pop the clutch when you loose traction going up hill! @TIMOTHY McCLELLAN. What did you attribute your accident to?

A few years ago I suggested reducing the height to about 6 ft, all I got as a reply was "the look". I think she has a secret insurance policy on me that pays triple if I fall off a ladder and die while trimming bushes.

Sounds like you're living proof... of Devine Intervention. Glad you lived to tell the tale.

checkout Chuck's post from several years back.

Glad you survived uninjured. Wheel Horse running, blades spinning, upside down against an LP tank with you stuck under it!!! Sounds like something Steven King would write a book about. Would be called The Last Explosion.

Glad you are OK -- And is your seat switch functioning, this is the kind of thing that it is designed for!

Yes sir...that was the problem...I didn't think that would make that much of a difference, but she is running good now! Thanks guys!!!

T'was a beautiful day to get some seat time on the 312H and enjoy that foot control and the high back seat. Now if I could only teach the 312 to trim the two strutting gobblers........sounds like a project for my two Grandsons that are into robotics.

If the linkage was in the lower hole with the old carb and now in the upper hole with the new one this could be the change that is giving you trouble. The gov arm does not have to move much to open and close the butterfly on the carb. The further away from the pivot point on the gov arm you get the more travel you will get.

Hmmm, I like it. Not sure I have enough time though. AARP has all ready advised me not to buy any green bananas.

C101plowerpower : Too bad you don't have a picture of that Wheel Horse pull starting that Porsche -not that would be a calendar photo!

I am always thinking about my A-- , O I mean comfort.

Coulda been a nudy picture ther Elcam.....and you would have looked at the seat first! Just spoken like a true addict!

In a couple of weeks, it will be a "Pot of Red"!

so heres some pics of what I have done in the Las week. so above was the results of soaking in diesel for a week. And though some things wiggle I still cant, as the manual directs, pull out the spline shaft and other shaft....(first pic above)... I'm wondering if in the next pics the damage from these bolts are indicative of someone else has been in there and not only put the wrong bolts in backwards but maybe they put the gears in wrong also? Thinking cause all the gears wiggle and move separately but wont turn together as a whole unit.

I just had to get rid of that leaf . Beautiful tractor !

I guess the answer would have to be tight enough that it doesn't slip. If you can't keep it from slipping, then you might need a new clutch plate.

Well I'm not bringing anything because I don't have a horse yet but maybe I'll come home with something!

Certainly not stupidity at all. There's absolutely nothing wrong with being curious and asking questions. After all, none of us were born with any Wheel Horse knowledge so we all learned it as we went along too! Besides, if no one ever asked any questions on here, what would we do? Sharing knowledge is what this is all about.