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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/2015 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Most of my deck hitches are badly worn so I decided to make a couple. These are for my 42" and 48" decks. 60" is completely different. They are just tacked together now to check for fitment, I will take them back to work for final welding and painting. I have drawn up the plans, I will scan them and post as well. Cleat
  2. 3 points
    The shop is quite now. No more sounds of a BFH, the sounds of a saws-all or noise of a air chisel. Gone are the few choice well used swear words. The battlefield is silent, the battle over the war won. I stand here triumphant with my surrendered enemy, the frozen hitch pin in hand. This is just not a lone victory but a victory for all Red Square members that have faced this battle and for all who will face it again, and for all who will face it for the first time. That there is hope in determination to face down this dreaded enemy that stands in are way of the perfect transmission rebuild. Talk about laying on the BS. Lol, Anyway it's out! Time to celebrate.
  3. 2 points
    Been trying to get a froze hitch pin out (like we have never heard that one before have we gang lol.) finally got the pin to rotate in the transmission. The crazy thing is froze in the slot hitch. So the first battle of the war was won. Now just cut the pin between the case and the hitch and the war should swing in my favor. There should be some kind of a medal for all of the guys and gals that have fought this war and won and survived. Drilling, air chiseling, sawing, etc. takes a toll on the ol arms. Not to mention the desire to just say _ _ _ _ it , and just walk away. But we all keep at it till the war is won. This particular one has been a tuffy so far and looks like it will fight to the bitter end.
  4. 2 points
    We have had weeks of rain here in the UK. It seemed like a good idea to go for a play in the mud. until we got stuck, here's a few pics and a video http://youtu.be/tHyKTt4J6w8
  5. 2 points
    well I grew confidence spoke with indy wh a.k.a (mitchell) last night on the phone he walked me right through it seems to be a cake walk well see once I get parts if it leaks
  6. 2 points
    Dennis and Hank have the right approach. Use patience. If PD blaster does not work, buy some Kroil-it is 4X the price but works better. I have had to pull the rock shaft out of two late 70's model tractors. You cannot swing a hammer in there, however if you pull on the lift lever (make sure you have removed item 5 and 41 in Daveoman's pix), the rock shaft will hit the side of the tower and should slide off.
  7. 2 points
    I think it was in the late 1950s. I helped an old guy, ( who was a plumber ), put in a cast iron sewer line in a house that was getting indoor plumbing. He used a torch like that to melt the lead to seal the joints, where the sections of cast iron pipe went together. The fuel he used in his torch was white gas ( that's what he called it ) . That was a long time ago. I believe that is the same as the old Coleman lanterns and cook stoves use.
  8. 2 points
    ...and boy...did it turn out great Magne.
  9. 2 points
    I agree with Hank, sometimes it takes time. Sometimes it takes more times. Heating and cooling seems to help. PB Blaster and the like needs time to soak deep into the trouble locations. Then again sometimes a bigger torch and hammer is the right combo!
  10. 2 points
    continuing on to the second scenario, but first the obligatory cautions If you have any questions on your ability to perform this mod, do not have the proper tools, fear the mod may introduce a "fire hazard" in your home, or fear loss of the warranty on this ($5) product, PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION. The second modification concerns changing a resistor within the float charger circuitry. This mod can be performed if the voltage output of the float charger exceeds 14 volts or is under 13.2 volts. Why can there be such a variance in the output voltage? HF has been producing this particular float charger for over 10+ years and has apparently gone thru several styles of circuit boards. Some of the original boards I had contained circuitry that required hand selection of a resistor value to set the output at 13.2 volts. Understand we are talking about a product that routinely sells for under $5. Any time assemblers had to hand select a resistor value to adjust the output to 13.2 V DC - well, that just becomes too costly. If the value needed to output exactly 13.2 VDC fell in between standard, readily available resistor values, several resistors had to be placed in parallel to come up with a "custom" value in order to achieve 13.2 VDC. Some of the early HF boards had several slots to insert these parallel resistors to achieve 13.2 VDC. This concern for additional manual labor to custom adjust the float chargers every time a new batch of transistors were received became a cost concern. A new circuit board was apparently designed to allow the user of a variable resistor - a potentiometer - to be inserted onto the circuit board for final voltage adjustment. A quick screwdriver tweek of the potentiometer would set the outp[ut voltage at 13.2 VDC. Done and done. Well not quite. Potentiometers cost about 20 cents each and a resistor costs about 1 cent in quantity, sooooo....... the bean counters must have said something about the additional 19 cents in cost. Bean counters usually win and the product was assembled with a 1 cent resistor that was "close enough". This results in a possible explanation why some of the early model chargers put out a precise voltage and some not so precise. The second scenario mod will change the 1 cent "close enough" resistor back to the 20 cent potentiometer design. This mod will allow the float charger output to vary between 12 to 15 volts. You as the user will have the final say in what the output voltage is - you should strongly consider setting the voltage around 13.2 VDC for proper float charging. This mod also had the advantage of being tweeked slightly if you need say 13.6 for gell cell float voltage. Pros . Cons Pro - only a 20 cent modification - ability to adjust final float voltage for wet lead acid, glass mat and gel cell variants of batteries. Con - solderiing / de-soldering skills are needed - you need to order a potentiometer - the potentiometer may not be as reliable in a damp or wet environment as a resistor - rough handling (tossing the float charger or dropping it to the floor) may change the output voltage and require a quick resetting of the potentiometer. From my internet searches, I find at least 3 versions of this circuit produced over the years, The mod I am presenting was performed on chargers in the 2008 era as seen by the stamping on the power supply cases. My circuit board looks like the one below. I am currently placing an order for the most recent offering from HF as I believe this charger is going to be on clearance for the 2016 year . Having addressed cautions and expectations, I will begin the mod in the next post
  11. 2 points
    This isn`t going to help at all, but since you brought it up I remember as a kid they did sell dynamite at the local hardware store here in Fairfield. Hard to believe the way things are today.
  12. 2 points
    Make the holes the right size (#3) and then you can tap them to 1/4" NF and screw in grease fittings afterwards. The C-160 that I bought then sold to my neighbor came with a grease fitting there and the pin just slid out. Cleat
  13. 2 points
    Wish I had read these post before I began my painting..I bead blasted all parts after a complete tear down. I mean every nut bolt and screw. I then primed everything with Rustoleum white bare metal primer. I then took the cheap way and bought the Majic paint at the tractor store..IH Red and the IH white..I used a spray gun and mix with the hardener and thinned with mineral spirits. As for the results, I am very pleased with the finish, no it did not take weeks or many days to cure. I am not restoring this for show but it does look great, however it is still in pieces and I will know the full results soon..Hope I didn't make too big of a mistake. All I can say is read and learn from these guys, they know their stuff. Thanks for being there for us noobs.
  14. 2 points
    I've been spending way too much time on the wheel horse, but it is addictive. I took care of the weak factory tie rods and replaced those with the threaded rod and aluminum bushing method talked about on this forum. The aluminum rod was a bear to fit into the threaded rod, but I got it reamed out. Spent some time working on the deck repairs too. Looking for a dial a height knob and a mule drive knob for the front. Also spent some time painting the seat and panels. I haven't touched the hood yet and most likely wont. The steering gear bracket was also cracked on both sides. I had a welder weld the two pieces back together and I had him put a reinforcement piece in front to make it stronger. This is the welded bracket. Hope it helps with the weak spot in the steering system.
  15. 2 points
    He's not wrong, I had a C-101 for about 6mths now I also have a C-161 and I still search every other day to see if any more are near me that need to be saved. That looks a nice tractor. Welcome to the forum.
  16. 2 points
    Looks good Mike! I have these custom made. Mike's particular one is extra long to fit B's,C's and Blackhoods with the longer hood. Cost is $50.00 plus shipping depending on steel prices. I make nothing on them. I have a retired friend who is a retired welder/fabricator that does them for me.
  17. 1 point
    I've had this old torch hanging around and figured I'd share some pics and try to find out some info about it. I didn't see a model # , but there is a patent # , and ottobernz / Newark stamped on it. Just curious if anyone here has some insight on these , and whether or not I should clean it up and polish it
  18. 1 point
    Yep, my brother used to shoot them for the bounty
  19. 1 point
    Neat! I have seen them in an old plumbing/HVAC shop but never seen them used. After watching the video.....I have done a lot of really stupid stuff over the years, but I WON'T be lighting one of those!!
  20. 1 point
    slowly starting to restore one of my 520's. found a great place on line for the decals ( redo your horse) but am not able to find the heavy clear sticker for under the seat springs. If any one out there knows of the part number or how to obtain would be great. Last year I went through the engine, had 800 hours on it so figured it was time. I attached a few shots after the initial paint work and new seat. Also yes.................a shot of my other toys..............I mean tools..............lol
  21. 1 point
    That's just too much. I'd like to thank the frozen hitch pin academy. If weren't for the lack of lube on this pin by the by prior owners way down the line, this award would not be possible. Thank you, thank you very much.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for the nice repys!
  24. 1 point
    What is it with wives not wanting us to have tractors anyway............ It must be a sinister plot they're all in on to keep us pushing lawn mowers, raking leaves and shoveling snow by hand.......... Glad you found your NOS bagger. A member of this forum gave me some advice about wives a while back. He told me to take off the apron, put on my man pants. Then his wife told him to turn off his computor and we never got to finish our conversation...........
  25. 1 point
    Yes that is factory fuel line location..my Ex Electro 12, that's where the fuel line was located
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