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hello men, a long time friend where i work is retiring next year. we'll call him RH. RH has helped me with innumerable projects over 35 years. so i figured i would give him one of my horses to say thank you and help make his retirement a little easier. my plan was to set it up with a nice 42 inch SD deck i have. truth be told i bought this tractor from another member who did the paint and decals. he did a super nice job. the tractor has been in my long term storage for quite some time. this tractor has a mind of its own. it does not want to leave my herd so to speak. i replaced both axle seals. broke one hub because i got impatient and used my impact gun in conjunction with my hub puller. luckily my buddy mark welded it up good as new. 40 plus years of welding experience will do that. next i replaced the brake band seal and the input shaft seal. now the tranny does not leak. i added lug nuts instead of bolts and went with chrome lugnuts for some bling. i cleaned and repacked the front wheel bearings. put on some nice turfs on the front and some new carlisle ags on the back. added a way cool bud andrews exhaust stack. fabbed a brace for the black pipe used to route the exhaust. even scored some new rubber bumpers for the seat pan and hood from my dealer. fresh 30w rotella "T" oil. new fuel lines and an inline filter. plus the usual maintenance. had it running great. would like to correct the right front wheel misalignment problem. and now i think the fuel pump went south. tractor won't start and gas pours out of the fuel line after the pump until i shut off the petcock at the tank. diaphragm blown? hope you guys like the pics. mike in mass.

Here's the crew again brought out of summer slumber and getting ready for training camp. Only difference is the 2 stage swap for tall single last year.

A 855 with a 42" Sickle bar mower @ a 1077 with a 50" sickle bar mower

My 1067 and SK-486.

400 #23343

Last spring I had the timber guys in to cut my pine trees - the beetles were dining on them so I decided I may as well get a few dollars out of them before the beetles. Made a few dollars and got rid of them too. I got tired of having to cut them myself and some close to my house were HUGE and I couldnt have handled them if the beetles got them. Down side was the timbering left a gigantic mess! Didnt try to clean up during summer with the heat/humidity we have here in N La, so when it started cooling down I had to get busy. Went and bought one of the orange tractors in order to get a FEL and back hoe - and that thing is a life saver!! Course I had to have a horse for some of the dirty work - this is a D-160 that doesnt look very pretty but that ole boy just "keeps on tickin" I haul the rubble loads down in the woods, and burn the larger stuff like in/on the FEL. I make a many load with that horse going back and forth. The little Kubota is a BX25D.

My first restoration, finished last fall. It's a 1976 C-120 and it's only job is plowing snow and looking good, of course.

my 704

59 RJ 76 C-160 Marvin 81 C-145 now residing in Indiana 73 12 8 spd. "Ezra" 64 704 67 1267 "Skonk"

Here are two sets of my 523Dxi. One set of portrait, and one set of working. Also, a portrait of my 520xi in working clothes.

417-8 with a 520 front end, and electric lift

Another picture. Little clearer than the others

Decided it was time to do a decent drive by.... Click on the pic.

Grandson loves the '85 Kohler powered 416-8 we salvaged some years ago. A "go-to" Stallion!

I got the rear weight box from Uncle Bo last week for the 520 with two stage blower. I had to mount up a few brackets to tie it back to the tractor. I figured why not take a pic. About a month ago Ken B and I were at the local flea market and I picked up this really clean old Ariens blower. Runs mint. Last weekend at the flea I found a set of chains I put on today. So.... here is my crew. There is an outside chance I may mount a blade on something....

Hi, My mane is Mike and I'm from Georgia. Got my first wheelhorse today. I think it's a 1973 18hp automatic. I have a 1968 Simplicity 3012 and a Allis Chalmers B110 I ran across the wheelhorse and traded a gun for it. It came with the tiller, a box blade and a rear finish mower and a home made front blade. It's not running now but was running as little as a year ago. Some one has removed the coil and I'm sure it has a few bad electrical parts on it, I plan on a total rewire to start with. any and all advice is welcome

My dad thought I was crazy when he seen me plow leaves

Excellent pictures. Where did you find a hill in Iowa??

I ran this tractor around before it was taken apart and the trans worked just fine , I did put all new seals on all shafts and drained the oil out of the trans and it came out pretty clean with no signs of metal so I am pretty sure the trans is ready to go

Well my new tires got here so its time to get the wheels cleaned up and painted , found this paint stripper at Lowes and this stuff works great , its Jasco premium paint and epoxy remover and takes the paint right off , if you try this make sure you wear heavy rubber gloves as this stuff if very strong , hopefully be painting the wheels tonight and getting the new shoes ready for my resto horse

Yes you can use synthetic in the transmission. I have found that Mobile 1 works best in mine. It also helps with the cold weather delay that is inherent in the transmission used on the 520. Also get that Fram filter off of there and put on a Wix or NAPA Gold. Good luck on a very nice find.

Will- The Economy is still around but over my buddies house. I am letting him use it. Rather have it being used than just sit and gum up the carb. Craig- I did stain it finally and paint the windows. I also put the snow rail on the front side and standing seam on the lower roof. I will load another pic of the front roof done.

I was thinking the same thing. Hope he never sees mine.

2005 Classic GT

This is my 953 serial number 62-304

I'm head over heels over my Wheel Horse...

Who needs a machine? https://youtu.be/umD5R0hNkqU

Kwik Way FEL I picked up at Steve Myers Service in Cridersville, OH recently. I was asking a friend Nick (WH857) about a project loader I had seen on Clist that was missing all the hydraulics. He mentioned that they had this Kwik Way in at the dealership. I made arrangements to go after ASAP! This will be going on a 310-8 speed with a mix of 520H parts....unless I can find a reasonably priced 520H locally. Will update the thread with more pics once I start throwing it together tomorrow.

Knocking can be caused by a stretched rod cap from over revving engine ( over 3600rpm) Prondzy and I have built a dozen k series kohlers with after market parts from as Brian Millers web site states he has built many kohlers from aftermarket parts and noticed no difference, good machining and clean assembly area are the keys to a good long lasting build. Cranks has to be measured and if in specs you are good to go. If you don't have one go to library and check out a kohler manual, or download from or buy one. I use mine all the time, all specs are in the manual. Pull the heads and see if piston has a number on top stating bore. If you have a .030 on top it is already to the max. Then you will need to re sleeve the block.

As others have said, Red Square is an untold amount of WH knowledge at your fingertips!

More cutting and welding today. This time the hood was on the table. Still a long way to go but at least I have some metal to weld the mounting bracket to when I find it. I stole an idea from buckrancher for the metal trim for the hood. His 854 build has been my go to for my rebuild. Thanks buckrancher! I still have more welding and bodywork but here's the progress for today.

I hear that a lot.............. Should have used the chain saw quite a bit more than I did 25 years ago when I bought the place.............. My neighbors out here are sure I am.... But it moves the leaves where I want want em in short order.............

I have the same one . Even have the original owners manual & brochure of all the attachments . Just fired her up about an hour ago too .

Prior to checking anything electrical clean and tighten all battery cable ends, the grounding of the regulator and the terminal connections on the regulator. To check the charging circuit at the voltage regulator, there will be two black wires going to the engine and an orange wire to the ignition switch. With the engine running at half throttle or above you should have about 36 Volts AC voltage between the black wires. The third wire is orange and should read about 14 Volts DC to ground. A volt meter will tell you a lot more than an amp meter, you may want to consider replacing it.

As for how long Wheel Horses will last, I intend to pass my two down to my sons for their use and care. I expect for them to keep them in great shape. These machines are simple designs, made of basic high strength material. As long as we don't abuse them, I expect that the parts will last a long long time. And when they wear out, and we can no longer find second/third had replacements, I haven't found a piece that can't be fabricated or substituted for. Long live Wheel Horse!!

NIce score. I saw that one, and liked the look of the tractor. Pretty clean, looks garage kept and well maintained. I have Matt's hydro pedal on two of my 520's. I love it. I don't know if it will fit with the tiller idler pulley attachment. I'm a few hours north, where it is ALWAYS colder. I run Amsoil 10-30 in my hydros. I replace it every 100 hours, but not every year. O'Reilley 10-30 synthetic (Mobil-1 re-labeled) in the engine in winter. In the summer, I might run 30W, but winter is just too brutal, and the synthetics make a big difference in warm-up time. I hope it helps with wear. I think it does, but I can't prove it yet. TORO hydro filter is 108335 or 79-5270 Wix 51410, NAPA 1410 There is a finer, 10 micron version Wix 57102, but I have no experience with it. I have learned to replace all the Phillips screws on the rockshaft covers with stainless button head bolts. The screws strip at the worst times. I also vent the drive belt covers to get more air across the rear cylinder. You will love that 520!

If you want the tapered bearing, I think that you will need to cut and weld a a new axle on to the 5xi spindle. The geometry of the two spindles is different, besides they use two different retention methods. It may be possible to install a complete 520-H swept axle and then modify the steering rods.

If you have a compression tester with a hose on it you may have everything in it you need. You would need to remove the valve core. Remove the valve keepers with air on the valve. Release the air and lift the valve to replace the retainer. Put the air back on, compress the spring and install the keepers. Hardest part is likely coming up with a retainer real quick. Garry

Good ending for both you and the Wheel Horse

Any idea what caused the problem in the first place or what was wrong with the motorcycle? a spade terminal on the amp meter worked loose, in addition, there were two fuses on the positive side of the meter. One was burnt out. The motorcycl is a beast to start when its cold out, its a 6-cylinder. OK, now I have to know. What kind of motorcycle has a 6 cylinder? Removed odd fuse, spliced a good connection, and old Wilbur started right up. Thank you gentlemen for your assistance!! Any idea what caused the problem in the first place or what was wrong with the motorcycle? a spade terminal on the amp meter worked loose, in addition, there were two fuses on the positive side of the meter. One was burnt out. The motorcycl is a beast to start when its cold out, its a 6-cylinder. OK, now I have to know. What kind of motorcycle has a 6 cylinder? Honda Valkyrie 6-cyl.inder, horizontally opposed, 1500cc Removed odd fuse, spliced a good connection, and old Wilbur started right up. Thank you gentlemen for your assistance!! Any idea what caused the problem in the first place or what was wrong with the motorcycle? a spade terminal on the amp meter worked loose, in addition, there were two fuses on the positive side of the meter. One was burnt out. The motorcycl is a beast to start when its cold out, its a 6-cylinder.

'58 RJ

Here's the first Wheel Horse I restored (finished earlier this year), a 1968 "500" Special.

@Rollerman Good to see you stop by old friend, I was wondering if you'd forgotten about us!

Looking pretty good Hank! As for the rims... Maybe a nicer set will roll your way, but in the mean time I'd roll with what you got. Like Craig said, a little JB weld goes a long way. JB weld won't do anything to strengthen the rim, more for giving the rim a smooth surface so you don't pop your tube. As far as it being a safety issue I don't see it being a real big deal. It looks as though you have got any loose scale grinded off. Whats your top speed, 6???? Just going by what you have posted and how far you are going with your restore I can tell that you know whether or not they will be safe, they are right in front of you and you can tell much better than any of us. Sometimes things might look better, and sometimes worse in pictures.... I removed a lot of material making these front slot rims for my Lil Suburban... I sacrificed these rims because they had rust holes almost like yours that I repaired. I've used the tractor plenty, even diving deep into the corners at the Big Show and no issues... Shoot, I fired it up and ran it around a little just yesterday, the first time since June when I had it at the Big Show.

Just because it is knocking doesn't mean it needs a crank, but if it measures bad you can get good used ones. I have gotten a couple of good used cranks from sellers like "Joe's" on for a lot less than having one turned. As long as you are dealing with a vendor that has a good reputation you will be OK. Some times the crank will have a deposit of aluminum from the rod on it, if that is the case a little muriatic acid will clean it up for you. Engine rebuild kits on from bakt4kids are quite good and run $90 to $150 depending on how many components you need.

My 2007 wheel horse 315-8. #391

It's been raining all week so I changed course and got back on the wheels. Welding and grinding done on the wheels so I used :jb weld to smooth out small pits. When it cures I will sand and paint primer. While I was doing metal work I replaced the bottom pan in the hood stand The starter/gen belt guard was from a JD and had a split that needed welded and I had to remove the incorrect mounting tabs and make new tabs. I used the original belt guard for tab locations. I'll have to form to correct length and drill mounting holes later.