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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    so i shot a couple pictures of my horse there ya go
  2. 2 points
    Hello,I picked this up with 19richie66.It is a future restoration. It has a stamped frame which I believe is a 56.
  3. 2 points
    Very nice RJ35... its a double edge sword on the resto vs leave it alone IMO... restored RJ35s are nice but forget using it... all it does is spit grease and oil everywhere... at least in original condition the paint is already worn so a little more grease or oil doesn't matter.
  4. 2 points
    On the up side, you type really well with just one thumb!
  5. 2 points
    Nice pics! Looks like a fun day for all. I used my C-101 to clear my drive yesterday (and my neighbors) in Chesterfield, VA. We had about 8"-9".
  6. 1 point
    Hi fellow Wheelers I just completed the fabrication of a Three Point Hitch for my 70"s GT14. Parts List include: 1. Used Wheel horse Rear Axle Bracket to which I added two Class One Hitch Pins with a steel bar welded across (bar was from an old shaft from a bad shock absorber) 2. Lower lift and Center lift bars and center lift arm (purchase from e-bay for $150) Note: One side was adjustable and the other solid, I changed the solid one so that is also adjust so that I could obviously adjust it and also make it fit better by removing a section and welding-in two threaded bolts 3. A twenty inch Class One tow bar from Tractor Supply for $139 Think you'll agree it came-out pretty good. Comments or suggestion appreciated As a side note might someone know what the rear pulley on the GT14 is for..... I assume perhaps the rototiller... but it looks so flimsy for that? Thanks
  7. 1 point
    Spending time with my little man plowing snow on the C-105. We got 7" in Cartersville, Va.
  8. 1 point
    hi, Jake, nice work! if I ever restore my rj like this, it will be parked in the living room, never see sun again!! what kind of plating or coating did you use on all that hardware? and where do you get it done? it really looks good! thanks - newt
  9. 1 point
    I use the heads off of my still as carb cleaner, (spirit distillation). Works very well.
  10. 1 point
    it looks classic, it wasn't there 4 years ago
  11. 1 point
    Rustoldjunk is mostly correct until a customer factory ordered one and see's a Wheelhorse options list for each model. Then things sort of weird out on some models...lol As stated my 8sp 76 B-100 had the 23/8.50 AG tractor tires and headlights options like the C-120. The stickers & 10hp vs 12hp was the only difference. Seems parts availability as one went down the assembly line changed some into higher/lower graded models too since most parts easly interchanged. Why some report having 1" axle vs 1 1/8" axles, larger wheels ect.. on the same models when they're compared. This goes for all models from what I read. Didnt stop or switch over that assembly line to wait for parts unless they just had too. Best thing to do is get the parts manual for the model you have. Use the numbers from the metal tag on the tractor not just its stickers. Parts manuals can be found cheap on Ebay if a member here dont have one?
  12. 1 point
    Got some parts back today, can finally start putting it together a little more.
  13. 1 point
    Nope, old is when the grandkids have to drive you to the Outer Banks.
  14. 1 point
    I hope you heal fast with little pain. We all make mistakes in judgement from time to time. Don't beat yourself up. Be glad it's still there and climb back in the saddle with renewed respect and focus.
  15. 1 point
    Pressed new bearing races into front wheels then mounted wheels temporarily with the new bearings until the tires come in. Cleat
  16. 1 point
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klVkBFWvA3M
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Not yet, can't see any obvious cracks, bolts appear tight, but I think you have nailed it. Will have to take the seat and pan off, it must be flexing up top somewhere. I had to use it for a while on Sunday, got really bad - lost almost all forward drive. Stopped, still wouldn't go all the way forward. Got off, instant full travel. Back on, reversing alongside shed, mower caught on footing, jerked tractor - instant full forward drive so there is definitely something moving around underneath. Will not be using it again until I work it out, going away this weekend so may not have time to pull down but will post my findings. thanks again, I am much happier knowing it isn't a transmission problem, don't have any problems with welding or fabrication if that is necessary.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    We have a high end cub at work (They used to have a 520 with the 2 stage blower but now I have it ) and after 3 years it is now on it's second blower because the first one got so bent and twisted that we just replaced it. Blower is made of really light gage metal, seat pan and hinge assembly is plastic and has broken twice. Machine is shaft drive and where shaft connects to engine flywheel is a plastic coupler that has literally exploded. I can go on about how corners were cut on this machine. Unit was purchased from a Cub dealer for over $12,000.00 with blower, wheel weights, and chains. Plusses are hydro drive, shaft drive (supposedly), power steering, engine runs smoothly. I do not expect this machine to be around in 20 years. Cleat
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Those little 4 horse Kohlers just seem so innocent. I had one upside down on me a few years ago no fun and they will run that way till someone grounds the points. Sure glad your OK. They are sure little monsters at times.
  24. 1 point
    The A series were lawn tractors. The B-80 came with a shorter frame in 1974 and 1975, and had a 4 speed transmission with 1" axles. So I guess it was "lighter". But in 1976 and 1977 they had the longer frame and the 1-1/8" axles. The B-100 had the shorter frame in 1974 and 1975. In 1976 and 1977 both the B-80, B-100, C-120 and C-160 all were longer frames. The C-120 and C-160 were more powerful only because of the bigger engines, but the C-100 only had a 10HP. Now to make it more complicated, the B-60 with it's 7hp engine and non-electric start, also had the longer frame and 1-1/8" axles. So I guess the answer is not exactly true. Take a 1977 B-80 or B-100, replace the engine with a K301 or K341, add head lights and tail lights, replace the decals, and you have a C-120 or C-160.
  25. 1 point
    I always thought the B was slightly smaller than lighter than the C.. My interpretation, might or might not be correct: A series was the small light-duty lawn tractor/mower. B series was the smallest "true garden tractor" in the lineup. C series was a slightly larger, heavier and more powerful tractor than the B. D series of course being the biggest and baddest.. true? not true? Scot
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