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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/08/2013 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    SEVEN THINGS A NEW WHEEL HORSE OWNER SHOULD KNOW 1.LUBERCATION, Metal on metal = worn out parts, motors, axels, bushings, and gears need oil and grease. So know where your lubrication points are, keep motor oil, trans oil, axles and bushing well lubricated. And the same for attachments mower decks, snow blowers and the like. 2. Small engines (air and oil cooled) are made to run at full speed. With splash oil systems, lubrication is decreased at low or idle speeds, also the cooling fan air volume is also decreased. Engine temp. raises dramatically at low speeds. Also maximum H.P. is at achieved only at full speed. 3. Belts, If you can, try to get O.E.M. But if not genuine Wheel Horse there are some things to consider when replacing a belt. Wheel Horse belts for the most part are "A" or "4L" size. this refers to the top width and top to bottom thickness, 1/2" wide 5/16" thick. Belts also come in smooth or notched styles. The notched belt "AX" runs cooler and can make tighter radius turns, but have a more aggressive grip and cannot be used in "clutching" applications were loosening the belt is needed to clutch. If a belt is used for clutching it's best to get a Kevlar wrapped belt. The wrapping keeps the rubber from burning when the it is "slipping" on the sheave or pulley. 4. Electrical. Older tractor wiring suffers from two main problems. UV (ultra violet/sun light) degrading of insulation and corroded wire and connections were wires meet or are terminated. When replacing wire in vehicles use a stranded style wire of the same gauge or larger of the wire your replacing. NEVER use a solid wire as vibration will work stress and break it in time. Also to help with corroded connections using silicone dielectric on the connectors helps a lot. 5. The shifter. This is a garden tractor not a race car. They should have called it the speed selector, If you here grinding noises when changing speeds you are shifting too fast, the belt need to stop before you change speeds. You will probably be able to take off in any gear from a dead stop. So you don't need to "run through the gears" like a car. 6. Keep an eye on things, Old parts can just plain were out. Once I found a fuel line not leaking but when move just a small amount fell apart, a real fire hazard. 7. The Old Wheel Horse was made before O.S.H.A. and lawyers took over our life, none the less there is some inherent dangers in the older models, open belts, pinch points, marginal breaks, lack of safety shut offs, etc. Know the dangers and limitations of you tractor.
  2. 2 points
    If you start now, you might make it by show time!.
  3. 2 points
    Sure wish I could say yes, but at this moment it is proably a no. I guess I better get the 401 and a dump cart hooked up towing a trailer with some gas and tools, probably need to head out in a couple of days! Wouldn't want to miss out on having the featured tractor!
  4. 1 point
    Hi all, as many people on here know that when Jim and I go to a show, we have a big red truck with a big red trailer, well lately people have been asking us about all of the mods we have done, before I show you all the pics I want to give you a little back story so you can better appreciate the work that went into the trailer, Jim bought the Pace Shadow in 2000 to haul his show car, then one fateful day in 2004 he was t-boned when an SUV ran a stop sign and slammed into the trailer hard enough to spin the SUV around, the truck jackknifed and the show car inside took some damage too. The trailer was parked and sat on the property for the next 7 years. The insurance company actually paid him to fix the trailer because they did not want to haul it away. about 5 years ago we decided to check out the big show, and decided that the next year we would stay over, (didn't need to fix the trailer up because we stayed in Jims parents trailer) (did that for 2 years) then in 2009 we started looking for a toy hauler, but could not find anything with a large enough storage space, so we started kicking around the idea of using the car trailer, but knew that it needed a lot of work to be a camper (it was fixed after the accident but only back to original). The following year at The Little Guys Show, we slept in the back of the pickup truck and the people who were in the surrounding camp sites could tell you stories, we hit our arms crying out Ouch while the other laughed all through the night, were up against the wheel well, cold, damp and sleeping was miserable, not to mention that we could not stand up to put pants on. Soooo after that weekend we dove in hard to the trailer, first cutting 2 windows in it, an escape window and a nice long window pictured below. we salvaged the windows and valances from an RV from the 70's, removed the pink fabric from the valances and recovered in Coca-Cola fabric. Once that was done, we got the cabinets from the Habitat for Humanity "Restore". Then we added the microwave, paint, insulation, AC and new tires. Then came the awning that we got off an old 5th wheel trailer (that is a story for another time). We also got a generator for those shows that do not offer electric. The only thing missing was a bed, we had been sleeping on a mattress on the floor, but to my pleasure we found 2 jackknife sofas on Craigslist and went on the road trip to go get them. Here they are installed and ready to go, now we have a place to sit and sleep YAY!! The other upgrade that is not pictured is the truck, last year we purchased a larger truck as the old truck struggled to pull the trailer (28 foot long). Hope you enjoy the pictures and appreciate all the hard work that we did together!!
  5. 1 point
    Just joined yesterday. Well done with the overall ease and information contained within the entire forum. I had hit this forum, a few times, while searching for information on the 518xi I just purchased last Friday. Helped me to know what I was paying was a great deal.
  6. 1 point
    Don't fight it ...it will win
  7. 1 point
    My God....I have been away from the forum for a few weeks and came back to this awful news! Karl, I am so glad things are improving for you, and so very sorry it happened in the first place. Although we've never met face to face, I feel over the years like I know you very well, and for that reason you will certainly be in our prayers going forward. Best wishes for a speedy recovery, friend, and God speed! ~Duff
  8. 1 point
    Being I only operate in the summer I used the 75-140. But as bullet proof as these are 75-90 would also be fine. They are fairly tough with exception to the HIGH/LOW shift fork. So don;t jam it in if it won;t go.
  9. 1 point
    75W90 for sure 75w140 is more HEAVY DUTY and not required !!
  10. 1 point
    Great post, especially the paragraph regarding engine speed. A lot of people are afraid to run at full throttle setting because they think it is taxing the engine too much or is making it use too much gas. These small engines are governed to a top speed. If it’s governed to 3600 RPM, and you put it at full throttle setting, 3600 is as fast as its going to go, and it should stay there under varying loads. It’s not really full throttle so to say, because the governor moves the throttle plate back to regulate the engine speed, so it’s not nearly the same as dropping the gas pedal of your car to the floor in neutral and killing it. Full throttle setting provides the best power, best cooling for both cylinder and oil for maximum life, and the best efficiency. I’ll admit I do use part throttle for puttering around the yard now and then so I don’t make so much noise, but for any work like mowing or plowing you need to open it up all the way. -Mark-
  11. 1 point
    Welcome To Red Square No one will even venture a guess without some pictures. Post pictures of all sides.
  12. 1 point
    Looks good Charlie my brother swapped a 5.9 in his 80's chevy 5.9 crammed in theregood old Wi fun
  13. 1 point
    I would probably use the 75W90. The 75W140 gets pretty thick when it's cold. I tried 75W140 Royal purple in my 654, I was using it for snow removal, it was thick enough when it was cold that it would creep in neutral when you let the clutch out.
  14. 1 point
    A big shiny 520-h with a 2 stage blower, tiller and 48 in deck.....with mirror bright hub caps and a 1000 watt stereo system with a cooler to keep a couple beers cold!
  15. 1 point
    well i now have a ride for the show, thanks to e-bay. 416-h with just 545 hours! paid just $1.02 per hour! Jay
  16. 1 point
    Woah! That's really bad, I mean I'm always paranoid about my trailer being liberated, but someone unbolting a starter is just mad! Glad you managed to make it despite the setbacks, and as Neil says, don't let it put you off. Mark Ps your grandad sent me a pic of his horse, get some pics shared :D
  17. 1 point
    Startup smoke is the sign the engine is beginning to get tired. Its cylinder is likely glazed (worn smooth with oil cross-hatches worn off) and the rings are getting worn. To see what needs to be done, you’ll need engine measuring tools in a micrometer and telescoping gauge, half way decent sets are available at Harbor Freight for little money. There is NO other RIGHT way around this if you wish to do the parts replacement and assembly yourself, as any other way is just guessing and/or assuming parts are useable. If you don’t want to take it apart and measure the bore and piston to bore clearance yourself along with all the other internal items than it will need a trip to the machine shop for sure. If you measure your engine parts comparing the readings to the service manual to find out what is out of tolerance, you’ll know what needs to be replaced and what needs to go to the shop for machining. This saves you some money, and is a lot of fun to boot. Plus you can then put the engine back together yourself, which is very satisfying. -Mark-
  18. 1 point
    your right when i saw the middle one I threw up in my mouth a little yes
  19. 1 point
    Tip is way too small for properly reduced enamel. I tried to spray Rustoleum in a HF 1.0mm detail gun and had the same results as you. Far too little pigment hitting the surface and never able to really maintain any type of wet edge stroke to stroke. I really think over reduced paint will loose a significant amount of gloss also. I bought the HF automotive HLVP 2 gun set and use the smaller gun with a 1.4mm tip. Enamel needs no more than 30 - 40 % reduction with the proper speed reducer to achieve a good fan pattern and a good live wet edge. If you have a larger compressor, the larger gun with the 1.8mm tip requires even less reducer to lay down a great finish. The caution with the larger tip is maintaining adequate airflow thru the gun to allow good atomization of the thicker paint. The only use I have found for the 1.0mm detail gun is to spray lacquer based self etch primer (which is near water thin to begin with). BTW . I found Majic in the spray cans to be less than satisfactory but the qt / gal cans with hardener seem to work well. Another trick with the hardener is to separate the 8 oz bottle out into 8 separate 1 oz amber glass bottles with air tight caps. Leave no airspace in the vials and the hardener will not go bad in the can. It appears the hardener is degraded on exposure to moisture in air.
  20. 1 point
    Rwilson, I have a problem with your post... which is that it is about keeping them clean... I have never had mine clean in the first place. I do scrape out the deck every time I change the oil (usually about every 4-5 mowing sessions), and I do all the regular maintenance one is supposed to (lube, oil, air cleaner, etc. ) The deck has some surface rust underneath, and has lost a bit of paint on top, but is otherwise sound. the other problem with your analogy is that you have not seen my car... I wash it twice a year whether it needs it or not. I am trying to imagine riding on the tractor through the carwash... my kids would love it
  21. 1 point
    thats not fair. it seems all the wheel horses are everywhere but North Carolina. you guys are so lucky.
  22. 1 point
    You guys take all the fun out of changing oil. I thought making a big mess was part of it. When I think I am doing good I manage to bump the oil drain pan and slosh oil everywhere then I usually can find something to drop in the used oil and splash everywhere or when pouring the used oil out of the drain pain I spill it. Then there is the being super careful when pouring new oil in as not to spill any on a nice clean tractor and end up sneezing or the oil bottle slips ever so slightly and get oil poured on the engine. Putting an extension on the help drain the oil is a great idea which I have done. I just can't seem to fix being clumsy or fix the moments when stupid kicks in.
  23. 1 point
    Lars you will be enjoying a freshly rebuilt Kohler engine. So congragulations there. You will have a little more money in it, but with a nice new rebuild you will have a much nicer Wheel Horse. I really like the pattern on the seat cover, plus I like that it is a high back seat. I think you are very fortunate to have this Wheel Horse in your collection. Van
  24. 1 point
    1958 Wheel Horse Ride-Away Jr. RJ-58, s/n: 101916 Started with essentially just a rolling frame (first image below), and ended up here after !3 calendar months, a lot of parts searching, and a whole bunch of hard-won restore work. First shown at the 2010 Wheel Horse Show in Arendtsville, PA. This machine has been restored to 100% correct mechanical configuration. Shown with the RJ-58 is a fully restored and functional 1960 model CBR-32 - 32" Sickle Bar Mower. Enjoy!
  25. 1 point
    :D A 314-8 should be a solid tractor. It sound like the clutch spring may be missing, broken, or disconnected. See my attached (i hope) picture the rear fender and fender mount are removed becuse this 312-8 is being repaired. The spring is shown below and parallel to the green line on the picture. I hope this helps. Attached Image
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