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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/2013 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    :text-thankyoublue: I need to get to TSC and fetch a copy. Once again I'd like to thank all of those who voted for the Drags-Tor back in August! For those who missed it, here's a link to my write-up at GT Talk forum:
  2. 1 point
    Just got my new Lawn & Garden Tractor magazine today, and lo and behold, there's TT's dragster. Congrats Terry :thumbs:
  3. 1 point
    Well guys here she is,you all said more would come, and you were correct. I believe it to be a 1960. Runs pretty good but starts hard. I want to do a complete nut & bolt restoration. What can you guys tell me about this beauty?
  4. 1 point
    On a positive note.You'll have time to get that post count up to a respectable level! :ychain:
  5. 1 point
    A site which is on my to do list in the next year or two. My wife and I toured the Martin Home in Buffalo last year. Well worth the trip. I imagine Falling Water would be the ultimate tour.
  6. 1 point
    Can't help but notice almost everyone includes my favorite-the awesome C-160. My list: 87' 418 eight speed -rare but powerful for mowing love the electric lift 74' C-160 auto - hydro lift is great for snow thrower and dozer blade 82' C-175 eight speed - its a brute for garden work, plow, disc, tiller 67' Lawn Ranger - just fun to have 520H -for its FEL capability My first experience with wheel horse was during my senior year in high school. my uncle was head of maintenance at the bear run location for the western pa conservancy at frank loyd wright's falling water, the lawn maintence required 40 plus hrs to cover all the areas on the property. The maintenance dept. had just purchased a leftover 87' model yr. 418-8. It was brand new and it was all mine, my baby so to speak. The thrill of pushing the throttle open and feeling the powerful 18 hp Onan engine roar to life was a treet for me at 18 yrs old. The 48" deck was no match for the powerful 18 hp twin, I could blast through the tallest grass no problem. to top it all off, I was taking vocational agriculture at the local vo-tech school and was given latitude as a senior as to what project I wanted to work on. the instructor actually assigned other students to work on my projects for part of their grade as well. I was given a complete front axle and frame from a parted out C series from the local wh dealer where my brother was working. So I fabricated a steerable tongue added a rear axle and made the bed 3' x 7' with 12" removable side boards. I then made a deal with the conservancy for $ 350.00 for the wagon. And would you believe the whole time I worked there I got to pull the wagon around behind the 418 loaded with everything I would need that day; push mower, weed wacker, pick, shovel, rake, gas, tire chains, my lunch etc. it wasn't until 12years later that I would own my first wheel horse. That's how it all got started. Sure wish I could find a 418-8 of my own to restore some day.
  7. 1 point
    I've went further for less also. But my best deal, "free" was 3 miles. But I guess at this point I'm like squonk, looking for the package deals, and sell what I don't want. But I'd never discourage hunting / gathering , lol that's half the fun, fixin em one quarter, and runin em one quarter. So you see to have all the fun you gotta start with find and get! Did you leave yet?
  8. 1 point
    It tells me your coming down with the same thing the rest of us have, "collection fever" . I love it! give it the works, you won't regret it.
  9. 1 point
    Glad to know you survived ok and nothing life threatining going on. My Dad rolled his truck a couple months ago in the rain and had just a bruise, at 75 yrs young. That was a concerning call as he just left my place. A couple gallons of bondo will fix the truck good as new! :ychain:
  10. 1 point
    Glad your OK Craig! Will you be changing your name to reflect your experience? Can't wait to see what that might be! But seriously that's one heck of a ride you described and I'm glad your here to tell it. Get well bud.
  11. 1 point
    this money is going to the kids, correct what about raffling it off? 5-10 per ticket, i think there are people who go the the WH show in PA near you that could get it there if needed and maybe someone could bring it there if someone too far from you won it. this would take alot to coordinate, but it could be done. i think you may get more than it was worth, especially if it were for kids
  12. 1 point
    Holy crap Craig! Thank God you're okay!
  13. 1 point
    Personnally I don't think the article and pictures did it justice. You really need to see it live and hear it run to get the full effect of what a creative piece of machinery it is. GREAT job !!! TT.
  14. 1 point
    Glad to hear your happy with it! Mike............
  15. 1 point
    Ask Lars in Norway if he had been able to come across the big pond,How far is to far !!!!!!!!!!!!!
  16. 1 point
    +1 on Mark's comments. Good insight. One quick check to see if the device is defective, poorly designed or just a poor performer in an electrically noisey enviroment, simply plug the strobe into your car's lighter socket. If it strobes properly with the car off and then properly with the engine running, the root cause is most likely the electrically noisey environment of the tractors charging system (and they are extremely noisey). As Mark stated, batteries make excellent filters but not for all high frequency noise generated by RR switching on and off and the close proximity of the spark plug wiring to the 12 volt wiring. Trust us on this. There are entire books written on just this subject alone. The idea of a resistor inserted into the power line will most likely result in a significant performance compromise. The issue is one of very different current demands drawn during the LED off and on cycle. Catch 22. If you insert a resistor large enough to limit the small current demand of the timer circuit, when it does fire the LED, the resulting voltage drop across your "fix" most likely will snuff out significant current to the LED's. LED's are current driven devices and your timer is voltage driven. You might get it "just right" with resistor trial and error, but then end up with more $$ in resistors than you have in the cost of the strobe. I'm not sure how comfortable you are with electronics (and I believe this is an electronic issue - not an electrical issue). You may wish to add a set of filtering capacitiors onto the circuit board. This would be much cheaper than swapping out a marginal RR unit. I don't see any evidence of electrical noise filtering on the circuit board. A quick low $$ fix may be a small 0.01uf cap, and if there is room, a 470uf 35v electrolytic cap soldered directly across the (+) and (-) pads where the power cord attaches to the circuit board - probably $2 total @ Radio Shack. The .01uf capacitor will act as an electrical "short circuit" to high frequency noise only. Any spark plug or RR switching noise entering thru the wiring onto the circuit board will be shorted to ground before entering into the timer circuit. The bigger blue electrolytic cap acts as a "electron bath tub". The blue cap will store a respectable charge between LED flashes. When the timer fires, the LED's can draw from the "bath tub" and not have to draw all the required current up thru a long length of possibly undersized wires. Result is better performance. Why didn't the folks who designed this put in the extra 50 cents of components? Either they were too busy telling their Facebook friends what they had to eat for lunch that day and how the waitress did not make them feel "special", or their sales manager figured the extra 50 cents would make them "uncompetitive". I weep for the next generation.
  17. 1 point
    i allways pull the head on new to me equipment,clean the combustion chamber,lightly surface the head gasket area on the head by using about 220 grit sandpaper on a peice of thick mirror,put a new headgasket and of coarse this allows inspection of the cylinder walls,piston top and the play in rings,if you have the measuring tools the bore can be checked too,but if she runs good then a cleaning and i forgot to mention i lap the valves too,but that takes a fair bit of disassembly
  18. 1 point
    I thought that as well Matt, but didn't want to mention it . Fully understandable if it was so.
  19. 1 point
    It looks great Lars! Was your daughter headed for a tree at the end of the second video? I notice you dropped the camera, and took off in a hurry. Matt :flags-texas:
  20. 1 point
    :bow-blue: Thanks Lars !. Excellent Pics/Vids and super job on the Tractor. All of your Pics are Calender quality. Wonderful scenery :thanks:
  21. 1 point
    Great Job Lars! It looks awesome!!!
  22. 1 point
    Rick/Steve and Mike: Thanks for all the detailsl on this posting . This is turning into the best 953/1054 differential rebuild yet! I know it is not soemthing you wanted to go thru Rick but this should help a lot of Red Square members with any future issues. Your photos have helped provide the details.
  23. 1 point
    Here's a pic of mine with the correct guard and the engagement lever for the other style like Bob posted above....I love this tractor... 99% original condition and runs like a top. Only non OEM parts on it are a new carb and wrong muffler. Never been used since I've had it... needs some bearings replaced, but it makes a heck of a conversation piece at our show up here.
  24. 1 point
    Kelly, I think this is the belt cover you are talking about? I have a front mounted reel mower that is going on my 55 and to the show in June :thumbs:
  25. 1 point
    The solid 4x4 is probably stronger than 2 2x4s laminated together in terms of compressive strength, but NOT in terms of resistance to warpage, bending, twisting IF the end grain "arch" of the 2x4s is oriented so that those "arches" oppose one another. The solid 4x4 is most prone to bending if one side is exposed to more moisture and/or slower drying than the other. That's why the outer edges of deck boards always seem to warp, or cup upward and cause them to hold water, regardless of whether they are installed arch up or arch down. When it rains they get wet and the wood swells. Then after the rain gravity and sunshine dry the top side more quickly than the bottom. The bottom stays swelled but the top shrinks and causes the wood to cup. If allowed to fully dry they will return to flat. Cycles of exposure to cold, damp air and hot, dry air as in a garage that is heated only for a few hours and then allowed to cool off for a few hours when you're not using it can also cause this if the dryer heated air can get to one side of the post more easily. The doubled 2x4s would be more than strong enough for your application and would add the resistance to bending.
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