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I know these are all green, but bear with me here... https://www.grassworks.co/ I think I need one.

We changed the brake pads and rotors on my nephew's truck and my van last weekend. What to do with those old rotors? Well, since they fit perfectly on a 12" rim we made some inside/outside wheel weights out of them. Outside Inside

August 31, 1798, America's first bank robbery takes place at the Bank of Philadelphia, an inside job that netted the enormous sum of $162,821. In a bonehead move, the culprit began depositing the missing money in the very bank he had robbed.

Back on topic. I do have front ball hitches on my tractors. Makes it much safer and easier to position equipment. I especially like the offset receiver on the 310-8. I can see the ball to position it under the coupling without leaving the seat. I can still use the mule drive and decks with both of these front ball hitches.

I know I’m not the only one around here that finds it kind of amazing how perfectly good re-purposable stuff goes off to the scrapyard for pennies a pound or simply thrown in the trash. I made a great back yard fire pot by bolting together a pair of brake drums that came off a semi my friendly local alignment shop gave me for next to nothing. I topped it off with a recycled grill and now it is one. It’s pretty impressive for a piece of junk if I do say so myself. It’s hurricane proof in any case! Lolz

IDK how many times I could have used these over the years and finally ordered me a set. Some of the terminals I have worked on I could release and save but a bunch I could not . I hope the days of sticking them precision screwdrivers I had been using in my hands and fingers are over. Surely there sumin in this kit that will cover all the terminals I will ever come across from here on out . These seem well made with a handle that you can hold on to. Will try and replace the 9 pin connectors on my 520’s with new 9 pin connectors instead of replacing with 2 4 wire trailer connectors. Me being a purist ya know.

Got the hood painted up today for the C120. Now that my Simplicity mower has brakes I can take the C120 out of service and pull the rest of the sheet metal. Hopefully all the tin will be painted before temps drop.

Since you've put fresh gear oil back in it, get it running and drive it around for a week or two. As Ed said, jack it up and check axle bearing before replacing seals, worn bearings will cause new seals to fail . If axle bearings appear good, you will have to drain it to replace seals, so I would do a diesel or kerosene flush at that time. Removing axle hubs is one of the rights of passage as a wheel horse owner!!!!!!!! When you remove the hubs, do not use a 3 jaw puller, you WILL break them. Here a thread with several designs of hub pullers. You can buy precut heavy round plate disc from several suppliers on EvilBay. These transmissions are not that complicated. I actually enjoy rebuilding them. If you decide to rebuild it, drain oil. fill with diesel or kerosene and drive it around a little to do a flush before disassembly. It sure helps get some of the smelly gear oil off everything. take plenty of pictures as you disassemble it to help you reassemble it. Post picture of parts after disassembly and we can help identify anything that needs replaced. FYI the hi/lo shift fork assembly and the main shift forks have small balls in them that can easily get lost on disassembly. You can get replacements in those parts drawers at you ACE or other hardware store (not Home Depo or Lowes) You can clean rusty gears & shafts up on a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Here's a video by out transmission guru, Stevasaurus. While the bearing arbors he now has look great, you can use sockets as arbors to remove and install bearings You can buy your bearings and seals from a any bearing supply house, or get the from one of our vendors https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/manual-transmissions/

Well, weight is weight. Whether it's cast iron, liquid, barbell discs, or old rotors. Function is more important than asthetics. (that describes a bunch of us here too). Nice to see the full complement of cross links on the chains too...

I upgraded the wheels and tires, 30 x 10 -12 Interforce AGs on the rear and 4.00-12 tri-ribs on steel wheels and 4 bolt cast iron hubs on the front

Governor lever bead blasted and painted. I used chrome paint as that is what I had on hand. Hopefully it will look OK. New bolt and flat washer with the OEM nut. Choke and throttle lever assembly ready to go together. These were painted with the same chrome paint after bead blasting. Choke and throttle lever assembled. New bolt, lockwasher, and flat washer. All other parts OEM I did use a new flat washer under the nut as well even though there was not one there and the parts manual does not show it.

Got the modified bracket mounted with mostly new bolts. New high powered alternator in. The belt even fits after the changeover! Next is to make and install the new alternator wiring harness.

"It don't have to be purty, just purty heavy."

Some guys who did drywall when I was younger used those stilts everyday and then incorporated them into their Halloween costumes once a year. Pretty cool costumes when you can be 8 ft tall

The M37 project continues. While I'm waiting for some engine parts, I'm getting ready to assemble the transmission. Here are most of the old parts that I'm replacing, either due to rust spots or minor damage, as mentioned in a previous post: Below, most of the parts that are ready for assembly are shown. All of the parts in the above image are being replaced with new or NOS parts. All of the old 'small' parts (things like clips/washers/screws, etc.) are also being replaced with new ones. This will end up costing as much as buying a rebuilt transmission, but I suspect that because of using so many new parts (and my OCD-like fussiness during assembly), it should be virtually new, and better than a typical rebuilt transmission. All shafts and all gears are being replaced, as well as an entire new synchronizer assembly, and of course all of the seals, gaskets, springs, and bearings (with good quality name-brand bearings from reliable sources). A few smaller parts (not shown) are soaking in solvent at the moment. One small improvement I'm making is to replace the shift lever guide pin with one that can be more easily removed and replaced (or rotated when worn). The original pin had a peened end to hold it in place. My improved pin is secured with a nut and washer. I made it by cutting a high-strength shoulder bolt and turning it on my lathe. Here is one that I made shown above the old pin, which I removed by grinding off the peened end. I'm also planning to install a magnetic drain plug like the one I installed on the transfer case. I also want to install magnetic plugs for the engine and both differentials. Our lawns are getting browner, and the tractors are getting dustier as they wait patiently for some green to reappear so that they can show their stuff and be appreciated.

For those mini ears found in Chinese Vegetables....

Wow!, Thanks. Those will come in handy. This little tractor is cool! Dug around in the container again today to see what's in there. A few better pictures: Can't find the gear on the end of the steering shaft, but it's in there somewhere. Front Tombstone Weight Dave

Door treatments deserve a book! When I paint a room I usually remove doors after noting any snug-fitting places. These get sanded or trimmed before the re-paint. Bottom and top get sanded and re-painted. If I’m in a very picky mood, I’ll remove the hardware rather than try to cut in around it.

Can you cut off a door splinter free and smooth on the bottom with a beastly worm drive saw? Yes and here is how to do Actually a worm drive has jess blade runout than a sidewinder so I prefer it I had a tight door that was rubbing the floor and with the addition of vinyl plank over the top I simply used two 7 mm thicknesses to set the elevation change plus a 7.mm gap. It was marked on masking tape by scribing along the floor. Do both sides if it is a veneer door but not needed on a solid door. The trick is to clamp a straight edge about a strong sixteenth of an inch above the scribed line and cut into the door with a sharp new utility knife blade. The wood will chip out but only to the cut you made with the knife. Do both sides for veneer doors. As I clamp a straight edge to the door I go back a bit low enough to leave the scribe line on and the wood will chip to a very slight ragged edge. The blade left a decent surface that a belt sander would take off but I used a flap disc and got by I used a cutting disc to bevel the edge , but again a sanding block for the less experienced might work with less risk. I finished it up with 220 sandpaper. An application of Tung oil to seal the bottom and repeat a few times is gonna seal that door nicely.

I’d kind of rather buy a $100 Wheel Horse and play with that…

Stupid crooks are everywhere. The State of Florida had two "Treasure Museums" located on the treasure coast, one in Fort Pierce and the other in Sebastian. They contained actual gold coins, jeweled items and all sorts of treasures from Spanish ships that had sunk off the coast in the early 1700s. Mel Fisher and other treasure hunters had an agreement with the state that the would turn over half of their booty in exchange for salvage rights. Both museums had state of the art security systems but a couple of thieves managed to break into the Sebastian location undetected and cleaned out all of the treasure. In spite of their obvious talent for avoiding detection these stupid crooks went to a bank in Sebastian with one of the gold coins to cash it in. The bank teller said she would have to have her manager handle the transaction and ushered them into an empty office after having activated the silent alarm which notified the police. So smart yet so stupid.

You're supposed to use paint not blood for Wheel Horse red

I was going to ask Karl to move my misplaced post, but you s are having too much fun.

OMG, I’ll turn into a hipster! Noooooo! Not that! I’d have to move to Brooklyn. Ugh.

I decided to use two existing holes that were for the rear crossmember. The new one, pictured, has 1/2" holes in the bottom already. The hitch uses 1/2" bolts. I drilled out the truck frame from 7/16" to 1/2". Very minor change and didn't have to make two new holes there. Because I'm using those holes 🕳 the hitch is forward about an inch and a half. This puts the forward hole past the frame bend instead of in the bend. I see this as an advantage as well. I've ordered a couple bevel washers from Bolt Depot 🔩. They'll help line up the hitch frame to the truck frame. After all the drilling is completed I'll remove the new crossmember for paint.

Deck all done and back on the tractor. Nice and quiet and it cuts nice!

Looks like June 30,1959

Update… here’s a photo of the Kohler engine and a picture of the trans piece

my track record can’t afford that many new hoods

Been doing that for years. Younger brother taught me that trick after he got started into carpentry. He also would cover the area under the saw bed with masking tape, or paper to prevent any possible scratches. Most people don’t think about treating the bottom of the door.

Update: So, I got very lucky and was able use one of our loaner tractors at work for this project. So I started by going dig out the 4 ft bush hog he had out of the brush and trees. I then took it home and greased it, confirmed the gearbox has oil in it and the blades weren't to horrible. I think went to mowing. I'm very happy i ended up using this rig over my poor horse as the growth was super tall in some areas. Like 7 foot tall weeds in places. it was insane! I think use the other horse with my hauler to bring over the string trimmer, some help, and get to work trimming around the barn. I wrapped everything up with the C140 mowing the bank once again and then the field which was already mowed. All worked find and nothing really to report for breaks. One of the baffles in the old deck got bent so I had to pound it back into place. The blades are keeping there edge well, even after some rocks got wacked. Overall I'm pleased the project as a whole and I will be in way better shape for next season as it will never get that long again on my watch.

Me thinks you should take one of your model airplane controllers and make a RC ...

Tell that to the little flying vampires (IE mosquitos). I want to apply some red paint today but it is currently very foggy and once that clears the rain starts again for the next few days. It seems we only get one day a week without rain any more.

Just picked up a case of those on Friday. I put those in the freezer for 30 minutes. Problem is they go down a lot quicker. Not sure if that's good or bad. They taste better in the bottle but a pain to put in a carriage at the Packy. They are heavier to carry.

Never heard of anyone wanting to date a dump cart Tractors on the other hand have their own dating site.

I don’t know that control valve specifically, but with Power Beyond (typically labelled “N”) connected to the reservoir is there a separate Tank (“T”) port on the valve and, if yes, where is it connected? T and N are both “out” ports, but they have different purposes. T always gets plumbed directly to the reservoir (i.e. the Tank), can often use lower-pressure hoses, and should never see much pressure. It’s job is to route fluid from the non-pressure side of a cylinder into the reservoir while the pressure side of the cylinder is being filled N typically get plumbed to the P port on an additional control valve (which must have its T plumbed to the reservoir) via hose that can support FULL PRESSURE. N's job is to allow working pressure fluid to reach “beyond” the current valve while still supporting full pressure/flow to cylinders attached to the current valve.

Or put a ball on the front which raises it and no flipping. The con is it's hard to steer

They look like corn on the cob holders

I've been confused ever since the 875 flipped and threw me under the trailer. Trying to watch Nevada lose the LLWS also has my BP too high.

So true.

That is so true for a multitude of trades.... unfortunately, only the clowns leave a lasting impression - like a bad rash.

Just got back from the local Maverick gas station. Bought 4 gallons of ethanol free for $5.79 a gallon.

Some new black gorilla tape on that seat and it'll be ready to pass on to some lucky new owner. Nice job saving that tractor for many more years to the right person. Be sure to make them pass a competency test.

Here is the answer. Toro made one like this in the mid 1980s.

You can have some of mine, I want to paint and to get a break from mowing grass every time we finally do get a nice day.

Those are cool!!!

Governor lever as removed then de-greased. Choke and throttle lever assemblies as removed then de-greased. Choke and throttle lever assembly torn down. Choke and throttle lever assembly torn down showing new bolt and washers.

Probably the most famous of those Radio folks that pushed the boundaries. Prior to that, we had a notorious Tart on a local station - WHJY. She went by the name of Carolyn Fox, her suffering sidekick by the name of Rudy Cheeks (get it?). Carolyn was born Carolyn Berman, and was a year behind me in High School. She was a wallflower then that never said a peep. The Carolyn Fox alterego was just the opposite with her gutter humor & off color jokes...

It was nuts the first few years here. Our first summer a guy lost a brand new walk behind tiller off of his pick up when a tire hit the hole for the water main cover, Then there was the stolen car that went through our bushes and hit the fire hydrant. The gang war 2 nights straight between the neighbor kid and some city hooligans. The other neighbor kids. 1 set his house on fire. The other one broke into the old lady's house out back. She was in the hospital at the time and he was looking for pain killers. He ended up pressing her life alert and called the cops on himself! THAT WAS A HOOT! Then the semi tire that flew off and hit our front porch. Then a drunk that hit the hydrant across the street and snapped off the utility pole