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Alcohol in the gas has basically nothing to do with emissions. It does not impact 4 of the 5 gasses directly, may reduce Nox some as it burns cooler, and if the whole life-cycle is looked at is a net carbon producer vs straight gas. It is partially to try and reduce fuel prices as it is cheaper, but it is largely a give-away to corn farmers.

August 28, 1830 The first American-built locomotive, "Tom Thumb," races a horse-drawn car from the Stockton and Stokes stagecoach company from Baltimore to Ellicott Mills; due to mechanical problems, the horse wins!

Update on the power washer: Berryman's carb dip for an hour. Runs like a charm!!! pump shot - cracked. So I have a perfectly good Honda vertical motor for a future project. And it's on its own mounted cart for ease of moving around...

I have lived in my home since 88. House is on a main highway. Thought I'd seen everything. But tonight took the cake. Wife heard a noise out front when cooking dinner. Someone was broke down along the side of the road. I finally look out and there is a 4 x 8 trailer with a couple of tons of pea gravel on it. The right side tire is flat and off the bead. 2 guys standing there and lets just say English isn't their primary language. I go out to see if they need help. I ask " where's the spare?" They say " the house. " Someone is bringing it. I look at their jack. It's a 12v POS. I offer to help with my jack and impact. Spare arrives. It's the wrong one. It's a 15" and the trailer is13" So off they go. They come back about a half hour later and he's got this little bag.I'm thinking, that ain't no tire! He pulls out a Gatorade and 2 CANS OF EXPANDO FOAM!!!!. I ask where is the tire? " Wal-Mart didn't have it " I tell them to go to TSC. I Tell them about 10 times. But this guy is determined to use the foam! There is a chunk out of the tread and a slit in another spot. He tries to filling the slit and empties both cans into this tire. Another guy shows up with another trailer and they shovel half the gravel into that. But they also move the remaining gravel to the opposite side of the trailer and towards the front onto the tongue. Tow vehicle is a mini van. When they lowered the jack the foam squirts out and the rim is on the pavement. He drove off with it like that! I don't know if I will be able to sleep tonight because I can't stop laughing! Look close at the tire!

C'mon Bruce. You can call me Ed You can call me Ed Dog You can call me Edward You can call me Ward You can call me Ken You can call me Kendall Just don't call me Don

Nicely done sir.

Marriage is like a deck of cards. At first, you need two hearts and a diamond. By the end, you just want a club and a spade.

I hunt and eat a lot of morels, but I know nothing about these guys that keep popping up in my lawn. Are they safe to eat or will they make me act goofy...wait, I already do that.

On some of my tractors I sit on the side of the seat and swing my leg over the steering wheel. Most know I'm vertically challenged

I’ve run local regular gas in all my tractors since I rehabbed and started using them. I’d assume they have ethanol, but I haven’t had any problems yet with any of the associated problems with running ethanol in the gas so possibly not. I’ve had my 312 for four years and no issues. ethanol in the gas so emissions it will pass but the rubber lines don’t last for us to cut grass with our tractors from the past I was going for a Dr. Seussesqe rhyme I’m on the fence about if I did it.

As requested... Ethanol in gas Nonsensical additive Government of course

Thanks. Perhaps @SylvanLakeWH can do a haiku?!

ETHANOL: Eventually Tank Harbors Annoying, Nasty, Obstructive Lumps

Heat pump installed just needs covers on charge lines installed. Here is the spec sheet. SB_TW24HXP2A1DITW24HXP2A1DO_20260211.pdf

Mostly non E but during the heavy mowing season those horses may get regular. The 418 and the GT1848 are gas hogs so 5 gallons doesn't last much more than a week. But late September (when Rod Stewart was supposed to be back in school ) they start getting non E so that will set in them over the winter.

Have a Great Day Howard

Hope you’re sleeping in today Howard!

Who tells chicken jokes? Comedi hens!

I guess i will keep posting my progress even though this is a Jacobsen it still contains similar components! Now im onto the Kohler K301 had to do a lot of clean up grease oil crud ect!! Now into the motor! Will change fluids on hydro when I know this machine is running@ Pulled the head and man I thought what a disaster but that's what you get pulling a tractor that's been sitting for who knows how long in a field!! Got it cleaned up and it looks pretty good over all will do a flush and valve job and then see if it runs then go from there! Here are some pics of progress!

It’s full enough to give my well a rest, and give the pool a vacuum job! Yay!

Got the M37 engine block back from the machine shop. Hot tanked, magnafluxed, line honed, bored .020", new modern hardened exhaust valve seat inserts installed, valve guides checked (still within new specs), new camshaft bearings installed, block decked .040" to produce about .022" quench (piston height above deck, which is recommended for the Ricardo-type combustion chambers), three-angle valve job using my new valves, including 21-4n stainless exhaust valves. I'll be doing the assembly work myself. They also hot tanked, magnafluxed, and milled the head...just enough to get it nice and flat. I had them resurface the flywheel, which was in excellent condition except for some surface rust. The shop also did a bunch of rod and crankshaft work for me. However, I am currently reconsidering my approach (possible upgrade) for the rods and crankshaft. More on that later. Also received more parts for rebuilding the transmission. I think I now have all that I need to proceed with that task. It's been so dry here lately that the lawn has stopped growing and our Wheel Horse and its blue New Holland twin are gathering dust for the moment. Even though our well has never gone dry, I don't want to jinx it by watering the lawn, so for the time being, 'brown is beautiful.'

Are you telling me that the anti-petroleum "I'm from the Government and I'm here to help you" crowd is showing favoritism to the corn farmers even though it ended up driving up gas prices? Say it isn't so.

In 64 there was a shortage of 8 HP K 181's.So WH built the 854 model and put 7HP K 161's on them and calledthem 754's

For me, if it has the 754 belt guard and a 7hp Kohler then I would go with the 754. @gwest_ca may have a list of model numbers which may tell you what it might have been from the factory.

A local radio station had a pun contest. A guy really wanted to win. He submitted ten puns. None of them won the contest. No pun in ten did.

ignore the cut down axle - it’s hardened so I had to angle grind. Snap ring in place now

I finally found out the problem and solution to my D200 rear lift issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFWgezVlYKI

Agreed, all thread is probably grade 2 and is not a suitable choice, unfortunately it's what I had on hand that was long enough. Due to the hubs being about 7-3/8" in diameter and my steel disks being 8-1/2', about the largest diameter bolt that I can use is 1/2". Also, due to the thickness of the metal plates and bearing separator I would need 1/2" bolts that are 10" long or longer. I just checked McMaster Carr and they carry grade 8 1/2-13 x 10" bolts but they are $10 each, add in shipping and I'm looking at $40 just for the bolts with no guarantee they would work. I don't think I can find any 10" bolts locally but I'll check just to be sure. I recently bought a 3/4-10 x 5" grade 8 bolt with two nuts from Tractor Supply and the total was $10 Since one front wheel was toast and the other one not far behind I decided to go in a slightly different route for putting wheels on the front. I purchased a pair of Club Car front wheel hub kits and will be using 8" x 7" wheels with a 4 on 4 bolt pattern. Below is a picture where I used a section of pipe to mock up the spacers I think I'll need to position the hubs properly. Until I get the wheels delivered the size of the spacer is still in question. My initial plan is to position the outer wheel bearing just slightly short of the end of the spindle and use thin shims between the washer and the bearing to create the required preload. Needless to say, this is a work in progress. The goal is to have the wheels positioned on the spindle in the same relative location as original. The original wheels have a neutral or zero offset so the hubs just have to be placed in the same location as the originals using spacers and shim.

I use regular E10 without issue. I do use ethanol free in my two cycle engines and those that will sit for months.

When I bought mine from the previous owner it leaked gas from a carburetor o-ring, so he installed a shutoff valve after the fuel filter. I located an owners manual online that said ethanol degrades rubber, so I asked him what gas he ran in it. He said the cheapest he could find. I installed a new o-ring and run only ethanol free gas now.

Yeah, I was thinking my Maggie could get some regular gas while it's flowing pretty fast, and then scale back to efree when it's sitting longer

Ah, but it was repairable. On the other hand, if the horse stumbles, fall, & breaks a leg, the next stop is the Glue Factory. (I think the Train Engineer took a dive to sweeten up the pot on the re-match!!).

I and others have added a anti sway device to the front of the plow frame to keep the blade centered. On mine I can also adjust the minimum blade height on this device. I use it when plowing the stone roads. Dozer blades..Keep em centered. - Implements and Attachments - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

Yep dealer converted tho. True I quit Harleys and took up much cheaper horses because prices got nuts.

The crankshaft should clean up OK with a bit of muriatic acid. A non-running parts tractor I bought twenty some odd years back had a crank looked just like that and a small chip out of the bottom of the cylinder. Honed the cylinder, put a piston and rod kit in it and it ran well. Sold the tractor a few years later and the new owner loved it.

How much oil was actually in it? There are other things that can happen besides low oil. For example: Not running long enough to evaporate all the moisture in the crankcase, a little stays in the rod bearing and rusts the crank, just a little at first. Next time it runs, the rust smears off a little bit of rod alloy. Now you have a little groove, which will hold more moisture the next time you don't run it long enough. You get more rust, which smears more aluminum and makes more grooves, etc. Keep doing it, at some point enough aluminum builds up that it seizes, breaks off the big end of the rod and throws the piston to top of bore where it stays. In any case, as they say, you are here. And you know what needs to be done.

I think no matter what, you need two antennas just for the cool factor. Even if only one is hooked up, two will look cooler!

Expensive yes but hopefully worth it in the end.

Yes, i never had AC in the shop so I am looking forward to that. I had a propane furnace but I am getting tired of paying for the tank rental and just buying propane in general. I am hoping the heat pump can keep up in the winter but if not I have a 5000 watt heater for backup. The house is getting a new heat pump with an electric air handler for air circulation and backup as well. The house central AC unit has been on the way out for a few years now and this summer the furnace blower went out and it is $1200 just for the part so I am just getting rid of the whole setup. I hope that I am not making a big mistake putting these in. I will let you know next year how they work.. These are both high seer inverter units that are supposed to be very efficient and work in the cold.

I have two fenders primed although one of them needs more sanding and a re-prime. Two hoods are stripped and ready for sand and prime. I am getting a heat pump installed in the shop so it is a mess right now.

Another rainy day do I started dismantling the engine for cleanup. I do not believe it needs a full tear down as it ran quiet and smooth. I took some picture of the tin work so I can put it back together properly. Choke and throttle linkage as found. Flywheel ready to be pulled Flywheel puller installed after chasing the threads for the puller bolts. Flywheel pulled and very dirty inside. Alternator coil is remarkably clean as compared to the flywheel for some reason.

A pun walked into a bar. Ten people immediately died. Pun in, ten dead.

My "Shelf of Shame."

After 1 1/2 days of raking the stones out of the grass and back on the road, I was ready for a fun project. So this afternoon I made a blade centering device for the 312H. I also wanted to stop the hydro lift from pulling the plow frame up against the front axle, so I incorporated a stop into the centering device. Two 5/8" bolts salvaged from a utility pole, a piece of a scrap electrical panel door, a piece of old fuel line, and a piece of a worn out blade scraper bar. It was even warm enough to throw on a layer of Regal Red.

E Free for me, Pay extra now or wish you had later. New hoses and carburetor kits ain't free!

I drilled 1/8" holes every 1/2" and use a washer and hairpin clip to set the blade height.

Yes, smooth at the bottom. Threads will wear--both the hole and the rod. You’d need very sturdy through pins in this application to handle the shear forces. Alternatively, you could weld a flange onto the bottom end of the rod (under the plow frame) and do the adjusting with nuts on a few threads at the upper end (above the bracket on the attach-a-matic adaptor). That way, the plow frame floats on the smooth part of the rod and not the threaded part. Note that a minimum height setup is great on the level, but dips or rises on the driveway are another matter!

That might have been a company standard, or government regulation. Trina has a pull start Horse here that @Sparky once owned. She can sit in the seat and tug the rope just fine. The first cold start of a day is a challenge. After that it's a one pull machine.