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May 10, 1869 The Golden Spike is driven, completing the first US Transcontinental Railroad at Promontory Summit, Utah, connecting the Central Pacific Railroad with the Union Pacific.

Restoring a tractor? Painting an engine? Watch this video on why you need to have clean metal (no paint) for your grounds and how it effects engine cranking,

Wasn't looking for a snowblower, but happened to catch a good deal on a really clean tall chute nearby our office in Plymouth, MI. Should be a nice upgrade from my crusty old short chute. Just need to take it the @peter lena school of lubrication before I store it for the summer.

Only known photograph of the May 9th actual connection date... Bob, Hank, Gus and the Other Bob are seen discussing how to inform management... The formal event was postponed a day to allow the Four Stooges pictured to rectify the situation. They are still fighting over the contract change order...

Checked the S/G this evening and it's pretty clean with smooth tight bearings. Brushes are decent. Wiped it out, put her back together and bench tested. Tomorrow is electrical day...

You can trust your mother not your ground....

Trina and I have been doing a lot of organizing and deciding what future projects need to stay or be re-homed. To that end we've adopted out 3 tractors and 2 mowing decks this weekend along with some other swaps. Here's a C160 Automatic project tractor and a disc harrows that's going to @OldWorkHorse soon. Notice the fully certified Wheelhorse delivery vehicle.

That board has nothing to do with starting. Battery charging only so the addition of a solenoid will not fix it. The magneto ignition is self powered and the wire going to the ignition switch simply grounds the magneto coil to shut it off. Adding a solenoid would remove the heavy starting load on the ignition switch and a good idea to keep the expensive switch working.

Son called to say the '76 C120 stalled down in the meadow. They mow it about once a month - hard on the 42RD. The left wheel mount had snapped a month ago and I welded it. All seemed fine then. I had refurbished the K301 and trans about 10 years ago. She's a beast - can't have many hours, though I pulled it from the backyard of an old church friend where it sat for many years. I brought the 516 over and the 48SD finished it for them. Well, the RD was soaked with oil. Found that I had not torqued the oil pan. The bolts loosened and the gasket blew. Luckily, the stall wasn't a seize. The fuel pump - a Briggs-like pulse pump - filled with oil and starved it for fuel before it would starve for oil. Phew! We're lucky that way. Pulled the engine, replaced the gasket and refreshed the deck a bit. Good time for the youngest to see how. All good and ready for another season in the meadow. I was sure to check the rod and balance gears to ensure my brain hadn't failed there. Close one!

Finally decided to remove a Birch tree that does nothing but drop crap all year round. It's about 70' tall. The only tool I had to do the job was a B&D 20v chainsaw with a 10" blade. I was thinking that it was going to take a few days with a small battery powered chainsaw, and 7 batteries. It ended up taking about 8 hours to drop it all the way. I couldn't cut the trunk up all the way though because my batteries all died.

It is per task the manual is probably more versatile because it can do everything. But the hydro has its place it does well for mowing, putting around, and pulling trailers for yard work. It probably does well at snowblowing as well, I haven't tried it though. For ground engagement attachments the king is the 8 speed manuals.

Boy, you gotsta lotta nerve havin' that point'n that way... Buford T. Justice callin' in a violation of Wheel Horse protocol...

Yeah, hydro machines definitely require more coordination and driving of the machine. I know some folks that have bought them just can't catch on. I tell them it is like driving a car and pressing on the gas, when you come to a hill you got to give it a little more and leave off when going down. Comes in handy when mowing slopes, not to mention ease of operation, no clutching and braking on the hills just moving one lever. If all you got is flat ground not much to think about. As far as torque to the back wheels I had both and they both exceed the traction capability of the machine.

Now you need to clean off that nice paint where it bolts together. (See my post about grounds)

That is a reflection of a country working together for greater good, unlike other times in our history. Thank you Richard for our daily history lesson.

Drip irrigation is much more efficient for a garden and can be done without a pump if the tank is elevated slightly above the garden area.

Unfortunately many people do not understand that an electrical circuit needs a return path to work. Electrons can't just flow out (potential energy) and do work, they need to go through the device (light, motor, etc.) and back to the battery to do work.

Finally convinced my wife to get rid of her above ground pool. Used the C-141 to drag 5 of these 16" 6x6" beams out of my yard. I'm thinking they might make great posts for a slant roof shelter for my attachments

I prefer manuals...

Thanks to Eric for the welsh plug she now idles. Getting her the correct high speed needle was the key. Now have to decide what to do with her

The C-121,141, and 161 Automatic was only available in 1978 and 79. The C-141 Auto was just shy of 2,600.00 or roughly 13,168.00 with inflation in 2026 without attachments when it was new. It’s top speed is an eye watering 6 miles an hour.

Depending on a person’s situation, I have done well using 275-gallon “totes”, 12V RV water pumps, batteries, and solar panels. The layout of our 1-acre lot means that where I can capture rainwater is downhill from where I need the water, so I transfer from tank to tank. (I need to get one more tank, now that I think of it… I have a source of food-grade, once-used, cleaned tanks for $35!! A 4th tank on the high side of the garden will be ideal, then I could utilize a drip system.)

Had a real good one way back in 1980. Olds Omega with a manual trans. Under warranty came in with a broken clutch cable at the bellhousing. so I replaced it. Came back a month later with another broken cable. So I replaced it again. This time it looked like the cable was burnt. Turned out the negative cable at the bellhousing was loose 5 inches away from the cable. When starting an arc jumped between the cables and burned through the clutch cable. I have also seen choke and throttle cables glow on Wheel Horses!

I've got an a aluminum trailer and the lights always give problems. The lights are grounded to the frame with a self tapping screw and the dissimilar metals corrode the terminal rings. Would guess the same thing can happen on aluminum engine blocks.

There may be a lineage of sorts here on the site if someone knew how to find it. I'm not the best at searching. @gwest_ca ? The "Letter tractors" started in 1974. There were 4. A. Series. B. Series. C. Series. D. Series. For 1974 and 5 only, the B was a Mid length frame and had less expensive options than the Long frame C series. For 1976 and 77, the frames were the same but the options remained similar. B series generally had smaller tires, different steering wheel, and smaller engines. Headlamps were options. 6, 8 or 10 HP only. 1974 and 75 had a 4 speed, 4 pinion manual transmission with a 6 or 8 HP or the 10 HP engine could be a hydro. The C series had an 8 speed HD transmission with a heavier duty 8 pinion transmission or hydro available for all engines. Those were from 10 HP to 16 HP. The Top of the line in a C series from 1974 up was the C160. That'll get ya started. Others will be along....

The electric engine fan on our old 1989 Old Cutlass Ciera stopped working. It would always come on when the AC was switched on, but no more. Jump the connector & it works fine.... There was a long threaded stud on the lower front of the engine with about 4 stacked ground wires, a washer & nut. Ahha - it was a fuzzy white color, not shiny metal. disassembled the stack, cleaned both sides of all the lugs & mount, and reassembled. A good smear of dielectric grease over them, ploblem solved... Looks like it was a poor choice in the ground location, open to road splash.

I have a used radon water system unit you can have, Pump (7 GPM) is controlled by water pressure just like your house. Turn on water as in pull the hose trigger and it will pump, shut off water as in let go of the trigger and it wiil build pressure and stop automatically. It'll work just like the water pressure in your house does. You're not too far from me in Leicester MA You can also use a 12v wash down water pump for boat applications. Pull the hose trigger and it will pump. Let off the the trigger and it will stop. Just not near as much volume of water pumped compared to the 110 v water pump

Hey, no sharing the secret tips from private PMs on how to get the trailer and the extra weight up those hills of PA. LOL

You probably want something like this ECO-WORTHY 110V AC Fresh Transfer Diaphragm Water Pump On Demand 5.5GPM 70PSI High Pressure Water Booster Pump 110 Volt with Pressure Switch for Irrigation Garden Hose Sprinkler Home RV

Made another blackberry / rhubarb pie. Much better than the strawberry / rhubarb.

Ok so I'm formilur with the 400 series and hell I cleared and leved out prob 3 acres of land filled with rock and brush you name it in the heart of the poconos of pa was an old buddy's property. I guess my question is. Can someone help me better understand the c series like were each model sized and such for specific tasks granted they can all do a lot of the same that I understand but today's tractors you have dif size tires and motors and that's based off your land size and such. Does it go the same here? Maybe I'm just not wrapping my head around things. Having my 410-8 some years ago I looked at it as the next best thing was a 416-8 then the 500 series for the size and hydro set up. What was the the c series "cats meow" so to speak Where would my c 100 fall into that category And also maybe whats the value on my tractor. I'll post a picture of the deck I got with it. Rear discharge in what I think it almost mint shape and most likely a newer model Paid $400 cash for it. Started right up all functional did do the rear end fluid change leared that the hard way with my 400 series Could still use a kero bath but that's next months budget bucket list

Clean all the cable ends or replace like Squonk suggests. Also the moot for the L-156 Lawn Ranger has that kind of unique rectifier board with the two diodes. My Old Lawn Ranger was one of my favorite Wheel Horse tractors! Make sure the diodes are all clean on the ends and replace as needed.

Foe grass cutting by the hour 2nd is too slow 3rd to fast....

@ebinmaine has his Cinamon Horse weighted down. Wheel weights, maybe filled tires and the weight of The Bear himself. Lug tires and chains to increase traction to get all the power to get a maximum amount of power transmitted to the ground.

Gear oil change today.

She doesn't get out in the sun much.

I might add that you can get 2 of them on Amazon for nearly half what Lowes charges for one.

I have the larger capacity batteries I got off Amazon. They run far longer than the standard battery the unit came with. Far longer.

Dig a bit deeper and you’ll learn a lot more about how plain ol’ profit and competition drove that milestone (with a nod to Abraham Lincoln before he became president, too).

I had a new 1970 Jeep Wagoneer that would just shut down while cruising along along at 65. I found thet it would restart if I disconnected and reconnected a multi pin connector located on top of the radiator. after several shut downs, I cut out the connector and connected each wire. Several months later I got a recall from Jeep to get the connector replaced. Seems the male pins were brass and the female sockets were aluminum.

The C-**0 tractors are hands down, my preferred lineup. I also have C-141, which is a good worker, but I hate the tower design because it's a pain in the butt to access the rock shaft for changing out attachments.

Kind of a 6 Volt to 12 Volt conversion!

Do you remember what your user name was? Or close to what it was? If so I can help, don’t need your password as I’ll assist you with that as well.

We had a K10 Chev Blazer come in with a noisy drivetrain. Every bearing in both front and rear axles, U-joints, differentials, transfer case and transmission had failed. Cause was a poor ground between the body and the battery. Current was flowing through the bearings to get to the engine which had a good ground. A very costly repair to a vehicle less than a year old. I should add that the cause was discovered before the damage was found. The technician had the radio on and when he removed one end of a drive shaft the radio quit.

Sad but true. Got up early this morning in hopes to wrap up an engine rebuild. Got to the point of installing the rings on the piston. Bottom ring went well, got to the second ring and of course it dropped in the top groove. Was carefully walking it around and.......snap. After the words of choice stopped I lit a thinking stick and went for about a 1/4 mile walk to calm down. Well as they say "Crap happens". I'm over it, new parts are on the way, hopefully next time will turn out better.

Well now just ain't you a regular freakin hero...