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Gone wrong.

I actually went to buy the tiller. Thinking I would have the only tractor with a tiller on the front and rear. But after talking a bit and learning he started working for Allis Chalmers in 1965, one year after I did, I knew I had to help a 77yo downsize. So I cleaned out his garage.

April 21, 1967, General Motors (GM) celebrates the manufacture of its 100 millionth American-made car. At the time, GM was the world’s largest automaker. General Motors was established in 1908 in Flint, Michigan, by horse-drawn carriage mogul William Durant. In 1904, Durant invested in the Buick Motor Company, which was started in 1903 by Scottish-born inventor David Dunbar Buick. Within a few years of forming his company, Buick lost control of it and sold his stock, which would later be worth hundreds of millions of dollars. Durant made Buick Motors the cornerstone of his new holding company, General Motors, then acquired Oldsmobile, Cadillac and Reliance Motor Company, among other auto and truck makers.

Yeah, I finally got a mower that is licensed to use state highways.

Your engine is splash lubricated with relatively wide clearances when compared to a modern automotive pressure lubricated engine, I would go with 30 as stated in the engine manual.

Hey everyone! Just wanted to follow up with how things went, both to give closure and to maybe help anyone in the future. I was able to get that governor shaft in place and installed without any further disassembly of the crankcase. Took one strong magnet placed on the outside of the governor shaft hole, one extend-o pocket magnet to move the shaft around in the case, and about 10 minutes of my time. Turned the engine on its head, dropped the shaft down at the bottom, then maneuvered the shaft into position using the extend-o magnet. Once it was "in place"-ish, I moved it close enough to the magnet covering the shaft hole. The shaft attracted to the magnet and grabbed over. Then, I just pulled the magnet outward (with the shaft attached) and the shaft walked through the hole. Checked the alignment was correct, installed the shaft sleeve, torqued down the nut, and voila! - new governor shaft installed and ready to go. Reassembled everything (new oil, new oil pan gasket, new fuel pump installed, but not hooked-up to fuel lines (for closure - still using the electric fuel pump)), started her up, and bingo-bango - throttled up and governor-ed down as expected. Thanks again to everyone for the assistance and help here! It is GREATLY appreciated. Thank you!

I have used Rotella T1 30w for years, summer and winter without any problems. IMHO it is the best oil for these older engines that is made. Bob

Very noble... Just wait till you get to be his age!!!

I can see what closed the deal, those license plat patches on the deck just couldn't be passed on gotta' have them.

McMaster-Carr is the adult version of "Acme". The mail order place where the Coyote got all is stuff to do in the Road Runner.!

Hello all. I am a proud owner of a early 312-8 and also 520 H. I wanted to introduce myself as a Wheel Horse enthusiast, and I also joined in order to keep up with all the maintenance procedures and tips that this forum provides.. Currently. I am focused on getting my 312-8 up & running. I have ordered a throttle to replace the old one and it will come in tomorrow, after that I should be ready to cut grass with it. I am located in SE Wisconsin. Respectfully. Tom

Took hydro foot control off and replaced with steering column controls on the 520H. So much nicer I can actually relax now cruising up and down the happy hills of home. The more I operate this mochine the more I like it.

Solution: Another tractor.

It's hard to not pass up a good deal isn't it?

And their severe duty flat tappet ZDDP Zinc is 5% of what it was - due to the Zinc clogging catalytic converters. That is why modern car engines use roller lifters - no more flat tappets. Rotella still has a reasonable amount of zinc in it. Not recommended - using just modern multiweight motor oil alone. You CAN use it with a rather expensive zinc supplement added to it. Better off just to buy the conventional (not full synthetic) Rotella. TSC - $16 a gallon.....

I'm about to find out. Never done it before, but I have a plan...

I believe that the Rotella T1 was originally developed for use in diesel engines. It has a better extreme pressure additive package suitable for the higher bearing loads in compression ignition engines. When used in our antique Kohlers, and Onans, that same extreme pressure package helps protect our journal type crank and rod bearings and the non roller lifters and cam shaft. These surfaces have largely sliding type of friction. The current automotive engine oils are designed for tighter crank and rod bearings clearances - often with special coatings - and roller lifters running on the cam. All of these features are efforts to reduce friction and increase fuel efficiency, which, was not a concern when our antiques were designed and built.

I was just talking about Warner Brothers cartoons a few days ago You're right: They all got their stuff from the Acme. Foghorn Leghorn for President

Buying cable in bulk is a better idea but for no more often than I do it I just pick up a cheap throttle and cannibalize. I discovered I needed one for my Dino project so I got this at Rural King a couple days ago. I'll fit it to the original control and cut it to length as needed. The Z bend tool I have gets the job done OK.

That will fit! You will need the lift cable on the tractor, rear axle bracket, mid- mount pulleys and obviously the belt.

Welcome aboard sir! When you get tired of learning about Wheel Horses, I have a feeling you'll enjoy some of what's in here... What Are You Listening To? - non tractor related discussion - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum -------- Mods, can somebody merge his other Introduction threads into this one (especially the one with the photos), and maybe move it to the Introductions forum? Thanks!

Thirded...

Seconded!!!

Hello Tom You've come to the right place. We have quite a few characters from Wisconsin and other nearby areas.

https://www.uscargocontrol.com/products/1-8-7x19-type-304-stainless-steel-wire-by-linear-foot?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=191860260&cq_con=14410206540&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=g&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&utm_term=&utmcUQAvD_BwE regularly refer to stainless cabling , for corrosion free set ups , have it in various sizes , we regularly made up lift slings with it , in a winch set up its a no brainer , like chain / cable spray , ridiculous movement ease , snow plow chute , pete

T-6 is not going to do anything better for you engine than T-1 (30w) or T-2 (40w). Full Syn and Blends in these old loose tolerance dirty port engines just burn off some of it after a couple of hours of use. Rotella T-6 is expensive overkill for these old flatheads.

I bought one of those years ago. Very handy to have.

If you go that route... pay attention to the direction of the second end bends relative to the opposite end. For the smoothest action in use, you want the two ends to be within 10 degrees or so of the intended placement. If you end up 180 off, it puts a constant bind in the cable.....

Sounds a lot like me getting older!

Got my donor wheels together for the rear. I don't have any more wide rears so I'm gonna have to make a set from two different pairs. The pair with the surface rust has a way wrong offset. They came from a Ford LGT. The tires on Ford pair would not break loose at the bead, even though they were clean. I had to use a 3 foot 2x6 and the weight of the Tundra to break them. Hopefully I can gain another skinny pair of wheels using these as well. We will see...

Or, maybe he could just take the blower housing and wear it like a Flavor Flav clock to show off his Teccy allegiance!

Man, this is a rough crowd………I love it 🤣🤣🤣

Looking forward to hanging out again! Although 11:00 am is my limit due to the wife's birthday party. Can't wait to see the look on her face when I roll up with that truck project! LOL. I didn't tell her anything about it and don't plan to either! I'm just gonna blame @Sparky and how he needed me to take it so HIS wife doesn't know HE bought it! She likes Mike so that should soften the blow a little.

Well... maybe. Your mileage may vary. I tried for several days to figure out how to hold the wheels and rotate them so I could cut them straight. I started to build a jig to hold them, but then realized that was against hillbilly rule #7: Use what you have on hand. So I put a tractor on jack stands and removed a Wheel. Then mounted the bare rim and used a sharpie to mark the cut line all the way around. Sat on a 5 gallon bucket and lightly cut into the wheel on the lines until it cut all the way. It gets a little sketchy when the cutting wheel first breaks through. You have to turn the grinder to rotate the same direction as the wheel is turning so it doesn't grab. Ask me how I know... Holding the two halves together to get the welding started was interesting. Grinding deep "V" shapes in the backside to fill didn't help. Angle iron around inside or out didn't work. I used a couple big magnets to tack the first joint, and welding clamps two inches at a time until all the way around. But it turned out great. Rim is 9 inches wide bead to bead and the bonus is that the extra parts make up a nice set of 6 inch wheels, so nothing is wasted. Wheel has no wobble after everything was finished. Plenty good enough for a slow garden tractor. Took all evening to do one wheel. Learned a few tricks so the second one should go much faster.

Compare the parts lists

More inventory. Bucket list stuff?

Some or all o' those are mine too. I'm fine with the repost. That's what we're here for.

Thank y'all for the information

Not sure exactly what your question is at this point but replacing your fuel line is overdue. It just doesn't last 15 years and you won't necessarily see fuel leaking from aged fuel line. Secondly, you likely have an after market carburetor on it and just because it "fits," it might not be correct, but adequate. Refer to post #3 by @953 nut. Install the air cleaner and adjust the carb with the airflow it provides.

Check for power at the small solenoid wire with the key in the "start" position. Are you using a 3 or 4 terminal solenoid?? A 3 terminal grounds thru the mounting bracket, a 4 terminal requires one of the small terminals to be grounded to complete the "pull in" circuit...

Nice photos, sometimes I'm envious of the flatland people

My first two tractors as well. Still own them. Standing the test of time very well.

As a sailboat owner for the past 40+ years those SS cables are the bomb, but when they start to get old, with years of sun and salt water spray they can develop tiny meat hooks.

I screwed up a couple pieces. Or they aren’t screwed up. I had to order a couple more pieces, but can still work on the front.

No FEL... a big snow blade... its actually in the back if you look at pic

https://wi101.wisc.edu/object-history-chevy-caprice/

ooooookay! thanks must have missed that one.

Nice work so far. Seals - some folks opt to pop off the inboard side seals, exposing the ball area so you can externally grease the. Others remove both seals temporarily to flush the supplied grease(?) and repack with a Lucas grease. Then replace the seals. A better non greaseable bearing. Your choice.