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I'm home!

Here I just wanted to show all the tractors I've recently bought, but haven't posted about. I just didn't think it would be very interesting as most were simple carb cleans or fuel pumps. The first two images are of my Commando 6 originally purchased in Des Moines, Iowa. I bought this in October of last year for $250, it had been sitting in a semi van for 20+ years. You might be wondering why you see a Kohler? This was one of 10 or 11 sitting around the show room a few years after this tractors model year, so to make it more appealing to buyers, the dealer installed a K-181. All I really did to it was clean the carb and rebuild the fuel pump. The second tractor is my '73 no name 8hp. I acquired this in August of last year for $200. This one already ran and functioned fine. I've been using it to feed cattle with. The third tractor is my '69 Raider 10 that I spoke of a couple weeks ago. This tractor is from my recent hall, but I haven't messed with it quite yet. It sports the HH100 Techy that does turn over. This one will be for sale soon, PM me if you're interested. The next three are of my 3 D Series that are either being built or being used. The D-160 single was also part of my recent haul along with the Raider. This tractor sat for a couple of years, but fired up after I installed a rebuilt fuel pump on it. The '73 18 Auto ran and fully functioned when I bought it, nothing much on it. The basket case is this D-200 that imwe have been building out of buckets of parts. This one will have a full repaint done on it. The last pictures are of my attachments that I have been collecting. The first is this D Series tiller that hadn't been used until I bought it. The next are my 3pt mower and tub cart, nothing much on them except replacing a belt and airing up tires. I think this is my longest post EVER! This is the herd update for now!

Hey Don…sorry that I’m AWOL most of the time lately but I have been quite busy with all the travels. We just returned yesterday from a few weeks of missions work in the Dominican Republic. It was a great working with the youth through several outreaches including a Teen Conference, a Vacation Bible School, and a basketball tournament. Regarding your question…Cindy loves her wheel horse (418-A) and uses it regularly throughout the summers. It works great for the needs at hand including mowing the pasture for her horses, hailing her yard cart to do various yard chores. She told me that she doesn’t know how she got along without it all those years. She is such a sweet lady and I’m glad that the Lord brought along the perfect tractor for her and I got to be part of that process. I’ll try to get a picture of her using it sometime this summer and post it…

Seat looks to bedecent. Worth $100 at least. Check the frame/hoodstand area directly under the lift lever. I've run across several with it cracked there.

For me, rollers are worth $150. If it runs and drives with no engine or tranny noise add $100.

March 7, 1955, "Peter Pan" becomes the first Broadway musical adapted to air on color TV, with the entire cast and crew, including Mary Martin in the title role. The broadcast drew more than 65 million viewers, then the largest audience in TV history.

Some 50 years ago I replaced the wood around the back door of my sedan delivery. It's been getting progressively harder to close due to sagging and a loose hinge. The suspect was the wooden door frame. Once I got into it, I found that some insect had bored holes and weakened the frame. Looks like I have a project on my hands. Of course I'm in to it deeper than I had planned.

OK, there's a few flags..... You need so inspect the 4 Unidrive mounting holes on the "F" plate for cracking. On the later tractors, the plate material is thinner than the earlier ones and ribs were added. Get a look at the plow that was used. If the moldboard is all distorted like a prize fighters nose, it has seen hard use... Time consuming to fix properly. Also look at the ears on the lower steering block - one or both may be broken off due to the twisting action on the frame in use. Common part. Pull both dipsticks to check the condition & level of the fluids. Water in the Unidrive is a milky mess on the dipstick. Check the four seals on the Unidrive for leakage. Get an honest explaination on "needs work" Any or all of the things I mentioned are repairable, with your time & money, and all affect the price. Low end with issues that are not showstoppers - $200. High end for "clean" tractor - $425. MY ballpark figure.

Hello, my Name is Dick and I have been a lurker for a while and now I’m the proud owner of a 78 D160 with a Onan 16hp and hydraulic 3 point hitch. It additionally came with a plow and snow blower plus the 48” deck. Now let me explain how we arrived here because the D160 wasn’t what I had my heart set on even though now I have it I’m in love. I am with a lack of a better term…a giant NERD. I am a HVACR tech and more specifically a chiller tech and I’ve also done things in my past such as build custom motorcycles, and sheet metal at a resto shop. I have a full fab shop including a lathe, press, chop saw, tubing bender, notcher, tig, mig etc…. My hobby is tinkering from building an repairing my own cars to building mini bikes from scratch. Now I have recently purchased a larger property with a wooded area that need cleaned up and we keep a large garden. I knew I needed a tractor and there is nothing I love more than a tool that can do many jobs. I had my heart set on a gear drive 4x4 sub compact tractor and I quickly realized that it was going to be very difficult to find an older gear drive tractor that had all the attachments I needed that was also within a reasonable distance. Nominees were the JD650, the Kubota b7100, the ford 1200, yanmar 155d, Mitsubishi Beaver. The issue is I wanted a snow blower, a front end loader, and a mower. Finding all of these and less than a few hundred miles proved impossible and even though the attachments can be found it was a mess when it came to getting the right info. If I had time purely as a project it would work but I need this thing to work. I switched my focus to getting 2 machines. 1 lawn and garden tractor for mowing and moving a garden trailer and 1 for the loader. The wheel horse gear drive mowers were already in my want list for my smaller property but it was a little light for what I needed but the d160 popped up and it seemed like the perfect compromise between what I wanted and what I needed. Now, it’s not perfect and it needs a little work. The lower deck needs to be fixed, I’m sure the spindles need to be gone through. The whole thing just needs freshened up. I also need to find a mule drive and get the deck working, as well as build something custom for the 3 point to haul firewood out of the woods. It’s still to be determined if it will make it out of the woods without 4x4 but tires and maybe a winch may help. Maybe I’ll get spunky and build a loader out of it. Only time will tell.

Couple coats of primer on.

Here is the run down on the BKT TR-315 23x10.50-12 -7.5" wide rim -Less then 5 psi fluid filled -22.5" height -8 3/4" width Deestone (left) vs BKT Right Deestone (left) vs BKT (right)

Picked up this "Conversion Kit" on fleabay. Not super common so I was happy to see it. On the tanker I needed to come up with a hose transport tray/shelf. After staring at countless pics of 1:1 scale trucks an idea started to form. These are pieces of styrene L from a box store used for edges of tables or other furniture. I ordered a couple different sizes and experimented with the right visual. The part being attached to the trailer side is 7/16" by 5/16". The outer piece that's glued to that is 1/4". I'll cap the open ends with a tiny piece of scrap. The rest of the pics are basically a visual mockup for my own aesthetics just to see how things will be lining up later. The truck being used is a parts rig from ebay. Glad I did this simply for the reason of lining up the landing gear alone. The kit directions have it a hair too far forward. There will be a minimum of 3 outlets on this tank. Front, center bottom, and rear. Possibly more at the bottom. That isn't the norm on a modern fuel tank but this is not a representation of a modern tank or a fuel tank.

Yup, no pressure treated back then. And if you used creosote like on Railroad Ties, the smell may have gone away by now....

Yes, but going from the outside is hit and miss. The last two I tried- first went in easily, second stopped about half way and I wasn't willing to really hit it hard enough to go further. I just cut it off and ground it down. Best bet is to cut the pin in half and drive the tapered end in flush.

Rim width has a big effect on how wide the tire spreads, and how flat the tread and sidewalls end up. Especially true for ag cleats.

Can one put the shaft back in from the outside to plug the hole?

After studying the situation, I've decided that I only need to replace one board on the hinge side. The sides are actually two boards sistered together. The one the hinges are attached to (which is one of them that I replaced years ago) was the one that insects decided to eat. I had to remove the whole wooden frame as a unit. The three boards in the first picture shows the one I am replacing on the right, the sister that goes behind in the middle and the left is the new board I am working on, It's an seasoned cedar (juniper), straight grained, knot free and hard. The two hinges are backed with metal brackets from the factory. The split in the middle board was filled with epoxy. The second picture shows the new board and it's backer board. I'm free hand routing the new board. I rough cut and held it in place scribing the body metal that wraps around the board. I spent a good deal of time trying to locate the hinges both by clamping the two boards together and aligning the holes used to attach the hinges, drilling pilot holes for the hinges by placing the new board along side of the door and finally measuring the opening. I can's say for sure that ever swung like I hope to make it this time. I've raised the door ~3/16 of an inch hoping it aligns with the striker better. Unfortunately, the door slipped and fell breaking the tear drop tail light lens that are specific to sedan deliveries. Fortunately I have a NOS still in the box in the glovebox for the past 50 years. Things that make you go HMMMMM.

Common problem... same brand, same marked "size"... different country of manufacture... go figure...

Hubs would be hard to check with weights on. Definitely check the "F" bracket before anything if was actually a plow tractor. Value would be nearly impossible to know without putting eyes and hands on it.

"Needs Work" may mean any thing from oil change and a bath to engine overhaul needed.....

Aren't we all

Although we didn't have color tv in our house until the late 1960's, I remember watching reruns of this on Walt Disney's Wonderful World of Color.

Back in the 1800's they started building wood wagons in a factory down the street from where I live. Then progressed to "Woodie trucks" In 1932 Hercules -Campbell Body bought Waterloo Body and Mid-State was formed. We have a car show every Memorial Day weekend and quite a few survivors show up. https://www.autoweek.com/news/a2075806/1942-gmc-campbell-built-wagon-returning-waterloo/ @4:32 in you see a fine example.

Interesting project

Looks like you may have a problem, some call it bad some will call it good. But it's still a problem;

I just take a sharp cold chisel and give the a sharp rap. No need to pound, they split easily.

@Skipper has us all beat! But I like a fat tire, front or rear.

I saw your C-175 pictures and I thought it looked similar to mine! I restored this one 2-3 years ago. IMG_9389.mov

Years back I came home and handed her a snow shovel Her "What's this for?" Me "You wanted me to get rid of the tractors so I sold a couple. Now WE need to do the snow by hand" She doesn't really pay too much attention to my tractor hobby anymore! Maybe flowers would've better but...

DNA of 48in side discharge decks for the 18hp Auto, D-160 Auto, D-180 Auto and D-200 Auto 1973-1974 model 5-1220 1975 model 5-1221 1976 model 65-48XS01 1977 model 75-48XS01 - Blades up to here have a 5/8" x 3/4" double-D center hole - 3 blade set #100202 no longer available The following decks use blades with 3/4" round center hole - 3-blade set #106637 1977 model 75-48XS02 1978 model 85-48XS01 1979 model 95-48XS00 1979 model 95-48XS01 1980 model 05-48XS01 1981-1982 model 05-48XS02

Slowly but surely getting at this. Motor is being real fun since parts are hard to find. Magneto coil was toast so it seemed a Briggs one would work with some slight mods. Fit the laminations pretty well but not much room to route the spark plug lead. Front end apart for deep cleaning and paint rims. Sure is different working on three piece rims.

Well normally I'd call him a BSer but I seen him do it.

Happy Birthday @parsonsponyz, we are glad you were born.

Maybe find a freeze plug or pipe plug that size?

Thanks! Good eye!! I'll claim that's a box of dog toys but .....

@Chav88 thank you for the reply, was a maintenance millwright at pfizer , 30 years , rarely had a job that was one and done , was always planning on ELIMINATING REPEDITIVE PROBLEMS , was also on 24 hr call in statis , you can bet I LOOK AT FAILURE , IN A TOTALLY DIFFERENT WAY . VERTICAL CONVEYORS , FLIGHT SCREWS , SWISS LEWA PUMPS . classic failure , was related to O[ERATOR , wanted to sleep , was fired , pete

Yeah it has the chains with it and I won’t have to worry about asphalt.

Happy Happy Mr. Parsons

Your wood appears to be in reasonably good condition. If you can kiln dry it well and use some epoxy like "Petrified Wood Hardener" to repair soft spots Then add steel plates to hold the hinge and latch bolts the original wood should be good. GM was the last of the major auto manufacturers to realize that steel is stronger than oak. Years back I helped a friend replace the hinge side wood on a 1937 Chevy, we notched the back side of the new wood to receive a 1/4" steel plate which was drilled and tapped for the hinge bolts instead of screws. Wish epoxy products were around then. https://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-16-oz-PC-Petrified-Wood-Hardener-164440/100649629

Glad to hear you are home.

Happy Birthday I hope you have a great day!

Fantastic news Richard

Nothing wrong with that herd

On the two I've done I drove the gear's shaft right in to the block.

I can't remove the upper balancer gear without pulling the crank at least not in this block. With the crank out of the way I have a nub in the block in the way if I rotate it enough to possibly clear that the crank is in the way and I even rotated the engine several times just to see if there is any position it can come out. But it's fine I was going to replace seals anyway and it's going to be easier to replace seals with the crank out.

Got the unit torn down and clean. I have a pitted axle shaft but the radial bearings feel fine. Best place to find some good used axles? Thanks, T

After machining the C series Axle for bushings, the worn spots at the outer ends of the spindles needed to be addressed. My son TIG welded the worn areas up using a Silicon Bronze filler rod while I had to figure out the fixturing to allow cutting using the Boring Head in the Milling Machine. Rough alignment was done using a square collet block in the vise & a split sleeve in my 1" endmill holder. Final tweaking using the dial indicator. Cut the weld to within .002 of the finished size & hand filed the remainder to get a snug bearing race fit.... A tedious setup, but beats hand filing the whole thing...

Same internal design but the Snow plow relay (Solenoid) is supposed to be "Continuous Duty" to handle the long " on time " during operation