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This is a long story so bear with; Dad was a Wheel Horse dealer. My moms uncle was also a Wheel Horse dealer from the 60's thru the 90's. My dad has only owned 3 Horses all these years: a 701 , a C141, and his only new Horse- a 416H. In 1978 moms uncle sold a new C141 to my grandparents neighbor. He stored it in my grandfathers barn but he died in 1980. My father sold our 701 and purchased the like new C141 for our own personal use. I had the majority of the seat time as mowing the grass was my job. We kept the C141 until 1993 when it was sold and dad took a new 416 for his own use. The C141 was sold somewhat locally and dad took a really ragged C120 on trade for it. Dad gave me the C120 which I totally restored and has been my everyday tractor since 1996. Fast forward to this week. I scroll the local Facebook marketplace listings several times a day and saw a C141 listed about an hour away and gave it no thought whatsoever because I am not looking for anything other than parts tractors. Looked at the listing another day or so later and for some reason looked closer: there were 2 things that gave it away : when we got it back in 1980 there were holes punched in the muffler ( God only knows why ) which Dad brazed shut, and there was a faded, worn decal on the left rear top of the hood. A few carefully asked questions and a rode trip was in order. It's had a rough life and multiple owners ,but our old C141 came home today after 33 years. Sold new by moms uncle, dads tractor for most of my life that was spent at home, and I own the tractor that was traded in on it. Needless to say it's going to get a full restoration and it's not going anywhere again.

Left cold snowy CT for much warmer Katy, TX to watch our granddaughter ride in her first rodeo with the Katy Cowgirls in the Katy Rodeo and parade.

Just pull the two hairpin clips and the hoop will drop down. Then swing the hoop to the rear , Install the belt and reinstall the hoop .

Check out the manual for your tractor and/or snowblower. You’ll discover that the way to change the PTO belt is to remove pins holding the PTO bail at its upper and/or lower pivot and then slide the bail up or down to get clearance between the clevis and the stub in the PTO shell.

Today we processed the lesser quality parts that were left from around 20 deer that we harvested this year. These bones are frozen until deer season is over then the bones are boiled and the meat is separated and ground for scrapple. The raw meat is ground for bologna. We made around 200lb each of scrapple and bologna. Scrapple boiling Dipped out and cooling Bologna Grinding Mixing spices Stuffing Then to the smoke house Then a lunch featuring a fish fry of perch, walleye, and striper

With all this snow this year and no 44'' 2 stage set up on the 520 - H I installed the 48'' Dozer blade. I really can't believe the oomph this thing has. I'm sure the extra weight of the twin cylinder helps. I only put the trac weights on and not the heavier steel weights along with a nice set of 2 link chains. I was pushing at least a foot and a half of crusty snow with it. Very impressed. This is my main mower but I may have to think about using another WH for mower duties ?

A big shout out thank you to @Handy Don for helping me! I met him a few times at the Big Show, and you know when you talk to someone for a while and you can just tell they are smart? Well that’s Don!! My C-141 was not charging so after doing some basic testing I decided I needed help. I was going to post this here, but I kinda wanted some instant gratification. So I decided to call Don and pick his brain. After talking for a while we switched to FaceTime which enabled him to guide me step by step. His knowledge and ability to explain how things work is remarkable. Using my multi meter we were able to determine that the voltage regulator was not working properly. We probably chatted for an hour in total covering an array of topics! Afterwards I called Brian @76c12091520h at K+B Wheel Horse Parts and he informed me that he has one in stock and would send it to me. So I wanted to say thank you Don, Brian and everyone here at Red Square for helping keep my (our) hobby going strong! God Bless ❤️

I've dropped nuts in my driveway, usually from lifting something REALLY heavy

Happy Valentine's Day !! Being as such, it seemed like a good day to spray some red paint. The outside temp in the low 50's also made the shop easy to heat. A big THANK YOU to Jim for helping me wet sand this morning.

No. Just disconnect the pto trunnion the the pto plate will rotate enough to disengage the hoop from. The pto bell thrust bearing.

I for one would not slide the hubs out for clearance if needed. Two options - different rims with less rear offset, or wheel spacers. The grub screw position over the axle key is somewhat critical...

I love my Bronco 14. That being said it tries my patience more than most of the others. It has alot of hydraulics mods and it has always had leaks to fix. But this latest was my fault. Or at least I thought so... I removed the balance gears last year and had no correct oil pan gasket. So I made one up, and as soon as I cranked it up it started leaking oil. So last week I changed out the oil pan gasket with a correct part. After driving it around, I see oil around the base of the engine again. Turns out the oil was coming from behind the fuel pump. It didn't contaminate my oil but it sure spit pretty bad. So today I made a steel plate cover for the fuel pump hole and added a low pressure (2-3psi) electric pump. This makes 3 tractors now using them and I've been very happy so far. When all back together she fired right up and ran like a champ. Absolutely zero oil leaking now and everything seems good. Even with the pump pulling on the rectifier it is still charging strong. It settles down to 12.6VDC after a few minutes.

Wow Brian! Excellent story I can’t wait to follow along with your restoration. The 1978-79 C-series are some of my favorite Wheel Horses made. Knowing you and the quality of your work, it will come out beautiful.

Got some work done today welded and ground down on the frame for the front axle pin it was oblong. Got the tierods welded And primed those and the rear hubs.

Great story We love watching your restorations

The hood gas tank and carburetor are on coming together little at a time

I had a Crown Vic Police Inerceptor. It was a great vehicle. Got over 300k miles outta it. It got respect on the road while delivering over 20mpg. Tons of power- I towed my boat, snowmobiles, & camper with it. I've owned over 100 vehicles & gotta say it was probably one of my favorites.

What the hell it's tradition now! I didn't do a damn thing. Looks like them hood hangers worked purty good. Thank you for the P clamps ... ended all my misery. I got nice ... well decent ... throttle range without having to add that little tab.

Soaking with Kroil for a while and as @76c12091520h says roll pin punch with patience should do it.

Goodyear Custom extra track 16x 6.50 x 8 Pair on the C-160-8 I picked up recently.

Win, win! This 10 speed is awesome!

Take the hoop off the tractor so you can lay it on it's side where one good slam from a hammer should start it moving. Got to ask - why do you want the pin out?

If you are referring to the roll pin in the picture, yes , they can be difficult. Will need driven out using a special roll pin punch that won't mushroom the ends of it . Likely rusted fast after nearly 50 years

Nope. Slides right out. ..... unless it's rust welded in.

Looking good Jim, but please don’t ram the piles with my future 418-A 😂😂

Wonderful!!

I'm not sure if my 312H is stock or if the trunnion was put on top to get better rod alignment, but the muffler prevents the disconnection on mine. Requiring me to pull the lower pin in the PTO hoop to let it lower enough to allow the U bracket to clear the stub shaft.

Great way to spend a day

Mike, you do need to lower the hoop so the U bracket clears the stub shaft.

With bigger pin out just rotate the arm to the rear. No need to unhook anything else.

The Briggs is a 14FB (5.25 hp?) and ai also grabbed this cool index. Unfortunately, no collets for it.

So today, I got out my homemade vise and wire brushed the wheels, wiped em down with mineral spirits, let em dry and applied 4 coats of filling gray primer. " on scamazon you can get 2 brand new 16x6.50x8 tires. 2 new 8 inch rims. and here is the best part. the tires are already mounted on the rims. under $100 for everything". Money is at a premium now & I like DYI. Next, I installed the head. Never-seize was applied to the head bolts. Torqued 10 ft lbs, then 20 ft lbs then 30 ft lbs and finally 40 ft lbs. I have rechecked the torque 3 times as suggested. No change. Now I'm gettin' quality time (?) on the keyboard searchin' for the sizes of hardware I need. Got a great hardware store nearby. If they don't have it, you don't need it.

That swap should work. Probably won't need to move the hubs, as the 1" section width difference will end up being an additional 1/2" or so per side.

I initially was going to do a 'need it, need it, built it, got, it' on your picture of future projects, but, they are all in the 'need it' catagory. Closest thing I've built in that selection was a stick & tissue peanut scale PT17 a couple decades ago. I do like the 'silent Sam' Indy cars. Those cars are from an era that seemed to encourage interesting and sometimes unique engineering and design at Indy - unlike the current rules that force the cars towards a single solution.

More experimentation and organizing tools and supplies. This metal Pete is getting more parts added. Cheap kit with some challenges... I like the look of the metal bodies but greatly prefer working with/on styrene. I'm not trying for any super details on this one but I'd like to have certain things right. Engine color for instance. None of the normal model paints match the needed tone. Stopped at the local hardware store the other day and found actual Catarpiller Yellow. Nice. This is after one of four or five very light coats.

Too bad we didn't have a few extra days these places are not too far off our beaten path to the BS.

Same here and where I moved from in Florida. Land is farmed and handed down through generations. Today it’s easier to make a lot of money at one time selling it off than farming it. All the orange groves I grew up around in central Florida are gone. Loved the smell of orange blossoms when they were in full bloom. Houses and apartment buildings don’t have the same aroma.

CD It is like I always say by the school of hard knocks . Take your time with this it will pay you back in the end,

I use PJ1 foam filter oil, its sticky so no drip off like motor oil, I can get 100+ hours of mowing out of a paper element and have barely any dirt on it..Just the finest of fines...but the foam sleeve will be packed every 8-10 hours. Its worth doing, the less dirt that hits the paper, the better

I'm thankful the Amish have deep pockets i my area. Ed, that was actually a quote from @Beap52, not me, but I agree with him.

It's actually a Castle Nut used with a cotter pin to secure. What , that is the question.

There fixed that ...

Here she is: P.S. And yes that is my 87' Chevy and 656 in the background

Was going through this thread to reference some older pictures and realized I never posted a photo of a more finished chicken coop still have siding left to do.

Picture #1 - Blue arrow is the fuel bowl vent. This allows atmospheric pressure to act on the fuel level in the bowl (filtered air) , without it the carburetor can't work as it becomes vapor locked and cant draw fuel through the main fuel pickup. (the long needle through the middle) That bowl vent can leak fuel or seep a bit as fuel vapor can condense in that area typically as a hot engine is cooling down... and can leak as fuel sloshes around in the bowl, or the float needle leaks, etc. Yellow arrow is the idle air bleed that allows air and fuel to mix in the idle mixing chamber before being pulled into the intake side As is the red arrow (which is in play when the choke is closed mainly) Picture #2 is the idle ports set - They are in a series of ports that are controlled by the position of the throttle plate - at idle (and high idle/ top no load) the majority of fuel is coming through these little jets - as the throttle opens , more jets are uncovered allowing more fuel/air to get to the engine (Idle transition ports) until carburetor can start drawing fuel through the main jet at the middle. The various holes in the combination main jet/ emulsion tube actually pick up fuel and distribute it through more holes to feed the idle circuit and provide fuel through main jet (the holes help to break up and atomize the fuel as it is drawn through main jet at higher speeds and under load) Simplistic explanation without having a cutaway to explain the fuel flow (Kohler manual doesn't detail those very well for the Carter carb version you have pictured, but does better with explaining the Walbro version, which has a lot of similarities, just in different places) If you understand first how air is flowing through the carb it becomes easier to envision what is going on with fuel flow through the ports and passages - when throttle is mostly closed, the air flow through the main venturi is not enough to pull fuel through main jet , so the throttle plate gap over the idle jets becomes the venturi , in effect... once throttle opens further, air flow through venturi does the lion's share of duty...

Smell like French fries when yer plowin'...

I do inspect nipples regularly. Only had the dash light come on one time on a 520H. I pulled the air filter and at first glance it appeared almost new. Putting a bright light inside showed it was rather clogged. That tells me that the oiled pre-filter was doing a super job and closer inspection of the air filter is necessary, the 20 HP engine uses enough gas without restricting the air intake. Maybe that is part of the reason so many claim that the Onans are gas hogs.

For your original carbs, get the genuine rebuild kit from Kohler it's available on Amazon among other places just know that if it's a newer production it will have Rehlko on it I thought I got ripped off for minute until I realized that is Kohlers new name haha KOHLER 25 757 01-S Second is try to move the throttle shaft side to side all the way around and see how much play is there, if it's too loose you will need to install some bushings. This is not a option if you want a good running engine. Hillman Group 58087 Thrust Bearing, Bronze 1/4 X 7/16 X 1/16 You will need two of these as you will have to stack 2 on top of each other. If you are lucky you will have a removable ball stud assembly on the throttle shaft that you can remove to get the bushings in. If not you will have to remove the throttle plate. The brass screws on there are peened on the back side so you may have to grind away part of the screw with a Dremel prior to trying to remove them. I have been able to remove them without doing that, but its always a risk. Replacement screw size is #3-48 x 1/4" DO NOT reuse the original screws. You can either get brass screws again and peen them or get stainless screws with lock washer's and loctite.