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In reverse ... Guy was asking for help the other day on slow reverse on a hydro. and @Racinbob commented that horses are not supposed to go fast in reverse. Designed that way for safety reasons I suspect. Some new machines including late model Toro verticals had a key switch under the seat with a light on the dash for reverse operation when the blades were spinning. So this 520 FEL I have was always a slug in reverse. Didn't matter how the motion linkage (Matt's pedal kit) was adjusted. Seemed like it took a hour to back away from the gravel pile. The other three 520's in my herd have this issue as well but not as severe and not as aggravating as they are all snow machines and don't see a lot of reverse time it seems. Since it was in the shop for other work & maintenance something was gonna be done about it. Started by marking the full forward and full reverse positions of the motion lever on top of the hydro. To get the control plate to move the lever to go to full forward was obtainable but only allowed a small amount of lever travel in reverse. The problem is the eccentric cam would bottom out in the control plate before the lever reached it's max reverse limit. Simple enough to elongate the reverse slot. Took a little more than 1/8" out was all that was needed. The motion lever now hits it's stops in both directions & a full cleaning & lubrication of all linkage makes for a very smooth pedal greasy Pete would be proud of.

dropped my wife off at the constitution joint center , this morning , for a thumb bone issue , been to same center for hip , back work . the work is very thorough , with back up home therapy assistance , my overall opinion of this is very good , and most important is ACTUALLY GOING TO GET IT FIXED , the fear is very evident to someone that refuses to get help , that also grows in the wrong way , always having a reason NOT TO GET IT FIXED . you can sense the fear , and excuses . on the way back , stopped at walmart , just a regular day . pete

So I’ve visited this site many times over the last couple years and got some really great info but finally made an account last month. I’ve had a 77 C120 for the last couple years that I used for mowing and snow removal with a blade. A month ago I bought a 1990 snowblower attachment for it and it worked out great but I quickly got tired of switching between the snow blower and plow so I decided to buy another tractor. That turned out to be a 1973 “no name” 10HP 8 Speed. After about a week I got it running, trans unstuck, notched the right foot board to accommodate the blade angle lever, and the usual catching up on maintenance from years of neglect.

i havent got it yet, but it 20 miles away. But, what powers it? Obviously a belt. But what hooks it up? Here’s pictures. I think i should go up and get that!!!

Well fellas . A nice warm welcome back. Thank you all. And yes part of the fun is in the search. We are still sprucing up the house to sell. A few more months before it hits the market. I been seeing wheel horses around. Close to a 150 mile radius away. Haven't seen a C175 black hood yet. I kinda liked them for grass and snow blowing. But any model is a nice one. Can't wait. Of course I will keep all of you up to speed on the journey back. It was really nice to see old familiar faces from long ago. Thanks again and bless you all. Btw, the Raritan Bay hasn't been this froze in a long time. I see the Coast Guard has some small ice breakers out there. Trying to keep the commuter ferry lanes open. Its some site every morning. Until next time. Everyone take care.

I'm working on a dilapidated industrial building for the railroad layout. Several hours work on the building and a bunch more to go. The goal is to have the train pass between this building and it's sister building with a elevated walkway between.

Heck at 76 just pick the whole tractor up and put it on my worktable ....Back what back

I do as @lynnmor does. No mess in the air box but plenty of fines on the prefilter. Dawn dish soap and warm water easily clean the foam, I squeeze the foam dry in paper towels and let it air dry a day or so before oiling with the same oil I put in the crankcase.

I follow the instructions on the label so the fine dust gets trapped. After oiling the foam work it in, then remove the excess by repeatedly squeezing the foam with paper towels layered in. With no oil you will not trap anything but the large particles, the paper filters are getting expensive and blowing tiny holes in them with compressed air is not a wise move.

You may be the only one. Well, maybe oily Pete.

Factory style:

I usually spritz it with light coat of K&N filter oil. I've had the same can for about 6yrs. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/k-n-engineering/k-n-engineering-12-25-ounce-air-filter-oil/kan0/990516 I check it over at oil change time. If it looks dirty then I grab the K&N cleaner, spray it down, scrub, rinse, and re-oil. Again, this stuff goes a long way, think my cleaner bottle is about the same age as the oil. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/k-n-engineering/k-n-engineering-1-quart-oiled-cotton-air-filter-cleaner/kan0/990621

Wheel Horse doesn't make new sweepers. I have gone thru three sweepers of other brands, I only want the Wheel Horse sweeper for a collectors item. Years ago Wheel Horse wanted $85 per wheel, I missed a like new Lambert sweeper and will continue to look at other brands that only need red paint. John Deere also sold some sweepers made by Lambert. If any members want to buy a new sweeper, I have found the AllFit from Home Depot to be the best deal, they are made by Ohio Steel and are identical other than paint. Parts are reasonable and they ship quickly. You can find the AllFit sweepers on the auction site for the best price. My opinion is that all sweepers sold today should be considered throw-away items, at least the Ohio Steel can be fixed a number of times because of the reasonable cost for parts and TSC has the wheels.

One of these guys...

I have 3/4” spacers on my 416h and actually did wheel studs and also drilled and tapped the hubs and spacers so the spacers bolt to the hub and I don’t have to fight either trying to keep the spacers lined up perfectly while mounting the tire. My tires are loaded so was a pain to try and do all at once

@Ed Kennell I didn’t need one when I was young either! Winter of 1984-85 when I was 14 with my Work Horse. My parents got me the plow for Christmas that year. Note the red hat, it’s an insulated winter genuine Wheel Horse hat! I wish I still had it.

So I bought this tractor roughly three weeks ago. Not running and trans completely locked. Getting it on the trailer was a lot of fun. Got it home, pushed it in the barn and figured I wasn’t going to get anywhere with it for a little while. Well one night I randomly decided I was gonna pull the carb and clean it. Brought it to work and took it apart. None of the gaskets tore but I did find basically sand or god knows what in the bowl. Threw it in the ultrasonic for a few hours, didn’t have any new gaskets at the time so I figured just to find out if it would run I just slapped the carb back together with the old gaskets and threw it back on the engine. Ran new fuel line and filter. Put a small amount of gas in the tank and it finally fired, took a little to fill the bowl and re-prime the pump.

Firstly, forgive my mess because I'm stuck indoors and I'll clean up when I can open the garage again. I welded a hitch reciever to my welding table for using my mini crane and for using my tire changer. But I got to thinking that it wouldn't take much weight on the crane to tip the table. So I made a folding outrigger to support it. I won't lift anything heavier than a Kohler or Onan, and I'll stay inside the 90 degree space formed by the outrigger. My back just won't tolerate moving an engine from the tractor to the table. We'll see how it works soon. At least it looks neat... and Rubble approves! Or maybe he just likes the heater...

I do that exact same thing. Last summer was dry and dusty so I had to do that every other mowing. I give it a light spray with crown oil in an aerosol can. The pre-filter gets very dirty but the main filter stays clean. I have been using the same one in my mowing tractor for years.

Thank you that was last years project. It’s a Simplicity 5212 that I did as an Allis look-a-like. Previous owner swapped in an 18hp Briggs. Im not sure if it was water or just stuck in gear. The second I let the clutch out it moved so I’m assuming it was just stuck. Regardless I will be doing a drain and flush.

By the time you rounded up the wheels, ratchet gears if needed basket and frame, and any other parts it is missing you would be better buying a new one.

Looks like mine except I have all the parts. I believe that is a tow behind sweeper.

Looking at a bit of the narrative says it has no wheels or bag. Sounds like a normal tow behind wheel driven sweeper

I'd have them put the right piston in and save the other for the other engine.

Yep that works. Just to elaborate on the hydro, the same internal parts that provide forward also are used in reverse. It just the cam ring directs the oil to either forward or reverse from the pump to the motor. It can actually run as fast in reverse as forward.

Going to have to take a closer look on the work 416. This may be the ticket for it also. Also has a pedal kit installed

Who actually does this? I know what the book says but when you do it it seems to make a mess of the air box collecting more dirt no matter how much you squeeze the excess out.

That will be nice. The cam plates hold up better than the eccentrics do. Many of the ones I see have a groove worn in them. Just 1/16 is actually noticeable at the end of the travel on the hydro.

I've actually built three different versions. I can't figure out how to attach the link to my build threads. They are titled Hydro Pedal #1, #2, #3 if anyone wants to look up the build threads.

I'm not a slob and oil the prefilter and no mess. I also have a spare for each size. Take out the dirty, oil up a clean one and put it in. Clean up the old one and put it in the cabinet after it dries for the next time

And it won't either.... I have a LARGE work blotter coming.

Finally the tractor is 100% usable but not 100% done so there will be more to come. Right now it’s being used as the snowplow when I don’t have enough snow to use the 120 with the blower. It’s gonna get all the main sheet metal pulled in the spring and going to get just a quick scuff and shoot and new decals hence the “Budget Resto”. Don’t want it to be too nice that I’m afraid to use it lol. Then the 120 will be next on the docket but that’s just paint.

Got it running then it was time for the trans. Had no idea what condition it was in just that it wouldn’t roll and the shifter was in neutral. While running I put it in reverse and let the clutch out and it went backwards. I then ran it through all the gear and hi-lo range and it worked perfectly. I decided it was a good time to throw the plow on even though the handle wouldn’t lock in the up position. After days of juicing the handle down the button still wouldn’t pop up on its own. Took the handle and rock shaft out and found the lock block to be cockeyed in its track causing it to jam. Separated it from the button rod and put a small bend in the rod to match the contour of the handle and it worked perfectly.

I use them and use the foam filter treatment I used to use on my dirt bike air filter. That stuff works great and doesn't make a mess in the air cleaner housing

Where you heading to in Fla? Be careful down there you don’t get sunburned.

In my mind, better in the filter and filter housing than the engine. Easier to clean a little mess than to rebuild an engine.

Yes, the wheel studs and bolts are seeing zero bending. If the lug nuts were loose enough to allow the wheel to rotate on the hub, then they would see a shear load.. If the lug nuts are tightened properly they are only seeing tension to clamp the wheel tightly to the hub. A low grade bolt or stud is rated at 60,000 PSI tensile. Five low grade bolts or studs if torqued to 75% of thier breaking point would apply over 30,000pounds of clamping force to the wheel and hub.

I never do for the same reason.

With 10' ceilings I had plenty of height to install a chain hoist. The welded eyebolt exceeds the capacity of the hoist and runs up through a 4x4 spanning the trusses. Just for giggles I reinforced the trusses with additional web runners tying in the top and bottom chords. I figured it would be handy but didn't realize just how handy. Just cuz I'm a chicken I wear a hard hat while actually cranking on it. I'm not worried about the mounting but the cheap chain hoist maybe.

I don't have any good parts for sale, I would like to get it back in operation. I have a new bag but I need new tires and repair parts for the ratchet mechanism. These sweepers were made by Lambert for Wheel Horse.

With 3-D printers it might be doable....but not by me

That might be next ... but yeah sunnies are their own breed. Funny thing with them, mine anyway, some are speedsters forward and reverse. Some are snails both ways. Even with a new plate and adjusted. Never looked into it but guessed it may be fluid related or just wear & tear on the internals.

Grass and leaves

The original post in question was about an Electro12 with a sunstrand hydro. You would have to redesign the plastic slider plate to get additional throw into reverse.

I had an early K161 (701) without ACR. I had it bored to fit a standard K181 piston, plus I changed the camshaft to a K181 with ACR. Easy start now with room to rebore several times.

Actually what I was referring to was the lever movement to get it to reverse. Basically the neutral stop. It's no secret that I'm not a hydro fan in any way but that movement drove me nuts. My wife said it really didn't bother her. I did this modification last summer to the 314-H. A mechanical stop on that bracket slot blocking the lever right at the neutral switch. From there it had to be pushed down to get to reverse. It wasn't a smooth movement from F to R. A little cutting did the trick. My wife told me the movement didn't bother her but when I was done she said she really liked it. As far as the reverse speed, I like the idea here. I would do it but this tractor will end up with a new owner this spring.

I've seen the cam itself wear a groove in it causing the same issue. Not enough pushin for the cushion!

to the Chris. Nice pair of working horses. My first one was a C-120.

I hate taxes. So I'm a cash with no receipt or sales record kinda guy. Probably my biggest peeve is the 6% PeeAaa sales tax that is collected on a new vehicle and again, and again, and again every time it is resold.

Preachin to the choir here ...