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I just talked with Richard's wife, and she says he's fine and should be home later today. I'm not going to elaborate any more than that. That will be up to Richard. He's doing well and we'll hear from him soon I'm sure of that!

I've been getting back into scale model building a bit. I started when I was 8 and did quite a lot for 5 or 6 years. After that I've been poking at them every few years since. For several decades I've been collecting and storing the future projects. I'll be keeping this thread as a record of what I'm up to. Please do feel free to post your own. One of the things I've wanted to build for many years is a model of what my Ole Man drove from back in the mid 1980s. Oil tankers that delivered #6 factory oil. 3 years ago this April I bought an IHC 4300 tractor by AMT and Testor's reissue of a 1960s tanker trailer. I got to measuring the trailer. It's designed to be built as either a single axle short tank or add the extension and use 2 axles to make a longer trailer. Still..... really not that long even for 1960s rigs. Then I got to wondering.... what if I had two trailer kits.... If the tank rear is meant to glue on either the front section separately or the rear section in combination - why can't I use a second kit for a rear extension?? So here's something neat. Look at the tank tops here. The left side is 8.25" long. The 2 right pieces are the back half of TWO trailer model kits. If I add the second back half to the first back half added to the front half ... It comes out to a scale model size of 21.5 inches total length. I remember pretty well that Bruce's oil trailers were 45 feet long. An odd length even back then. This model scale adds up to 44 feet and 10 inches!! This is the model kit of the tractor that I have. My Ole Man drove International S2500s. This is a 4300. Same basic shape but this model is a little longer nose. That was IHC's fancier road tractor back then. The 2500 series was the worker of the fleet. I'll take the chrome off the grill and only use one exhaust stack. The sleeper will be removed in favor of a large hydraulic pump. That basically turns it into an S model. I'd like to go weathered & worn. Never done one.... Tank will likely be a faded aluminum with stains. Internet find picture: This was one of several late 70s IHC S models that the company had. At least 2 were green on a red frame. That's what @Qball drove. Odds are almost 100% he drove THIS TRUCK. Stay tuned.....

The one thing that I don't like about snow blowers is that it is usually cold out when you need to use them.

Yesterday I was in town and saw they began to demolish the old Baptist Church, daycare and gym buildings. There is a large commercial playscape at the daycare that about 25 years old, but is in pretty good condition since it had a shade structure over it. The is a excellent Nonprofit called the ARK. https://arkofhighlandlakes.org that service our greater Highland Lakes area. One of their many programs is a large duplex housing community which has program to mentor and train families to transition them from the street and poverty. The director had previously said they would like to have a playscape for this property. So it hit me and I got the wheels turning to try and recycle this playcape. The demo contractor project manage was agreeable, with a few conditions that we could agree to and a fairly fast removal time line. Thankfully this is a large property and it will take them 3-4 weeks to get enough dumpsters for all the building material. The ARK directors asked if i would take on this removal project and temporary storage. I was able to contact the playscape manufacture and got and original layout drawing and a few removal recommendation. They said they can provide new parts for a few of the domed windows and parts some vandals had dammaged. This morning I took some tools and tested removing bolts from the main frame which went well. Unfornatualy the short Allen bolts with the flat round domed flush nuts on the panels just spun when I tried to remove them. If anyone has a suggest how to get these out, there is roughly a 100 of them. My one idea is to get a battery powered grinder and tried to cut a screwdriver slot in the domed head or grind the head off without damaging the pannel. There are about 20 post or legs with concrete footings. I dug down at a few of them and found there is about 1 ft. of gravel fill above the concrete footing. The demo contractor offered to provide a machine (skid steer or excavator) to pull them out when we had everything else removed. I have two thoughts on post removal which hopefully can be done without bending up the post or other legs One is to dig down to the top of the post to get to the concrete so a choker sling can be attached to pull up right at the top of the concrete. The other is get a jack hammer and hit the footings around the post to see if the concrete can be broken up some. (which would be a lot of work) The ARK will help me get a couple of volunteers for the disassemble/removal. My first order of busines is making some sketches with a numbering routine to mark all the parts for reassemble. I thinking of using a paint pen for marking, and appreciate any suggestions for marking that will last a while. I don't know if we will get the shade structure as someone else (a demo boss?) was looking at it. So this will keep me busy for awhile. then installation will be an even bigger future project.

Gotta get all you us ole timers on Karl's emergency call list. Never know when you might climb up in your tree stand and forget to come home.

My brother had all of the Aurora Monster models. The Creature, Dracula, Frankie the whole bunch. He painted them all up and had red paint dripping out of their mouths and hands as blood. He glued silver glitter in their eyes. I hated those things. When he graduated from HS he gave them all to me. The day after he left for college there were some unexplained explosions and plastic bits in the back yard.

Build them and then after a year blow em up with a M-80!

I built a few in my day with the neighborhood boys. Then taped model rocket motors to them and lit em off. Never a really great job since I have the artistic skills of a cantaloupe. Some came out ok tho.

I did the Wolfman, my brother did the Creature. I built a lot of models as a kid. One of my 4-H woodworking projects was a workbench specifically for model building and a display area for the models. I got dinged on the judging because one of the judges said it would never be used. Years later of use my Dad used to laugh and ask "is that the bench that will never be used?" After my stint in the hospital in Florida it took a few weeks before I built up my energy. During that time I found tinkering with the model building to be good therapy. I've kinda kept it up but don't spend much time on them. Here's a Bronco I started at least 2 years ago. This long arctic blast got me stir crazy so I pulled it out a few days ago. It was basically done but still had things like windows, sidelights, handles and other chrome tidbits, etc. to do. The tire carrier will have a Horse cover of course. I just need to scale one down a bit more. One of my favorites is this sorta A-111. Not really a model though. It started out life as one of them ugly green thingys.

I dunno Mike, it sounds more like you loved them to bits. steve

I also was into model building. Probably actively from the mid 60's to the middle 70's. Mostly automotive stuff. Got into WWII fighters for a while also. Still have a mild interest. I still pick up an occasional kit. Just this week, I got a '32 Ford sedan delivery kit. Coke version by MPC. Not sure I'll ever get around to building it - but having it somehow makes me a bit happier. Might be the memories it stirs up.

I used to put together alot of models.. When on road trips my grandmother would buy me a snap together model to keep me occupied in the back of their station wagon. At one point I ended up with a couple monster truck models. With monster trucks comes crushed cars. Soooo some of my less favorite or broken models were heated with a lamp and smooshed lol.

unfortunately it’s a couple two three hours plus curds. @SylvanLakeWH do you have any spares?

Thanks Randy great news ... I'm still gonna put him on report for going AOL & chew his rear for making us worry! Don't worry not gonna send him to Captain's mast. May confine him to a computer & extra duty with this day in history posts tho...

Here are all the parts I use. I discard the two tension washers and add two Teflon washers instead. Here are the two spacers installed with the shorter one forward. I then slide on a friction washer and a 1/8" Teflon washer punched with a 3/8 inner hole and an outer diameter the same as the washer. Then the cam plate gets installed. Then a 1/16" Teflon washer is slid on and the other tension washer. Then the cam pivot bushing is installed and the nut tightened on that. Then the lock nut is installed on the stud where the washers are. Tighten this nut until play is removed from the cam plate but it can still pivot side to side easily with no resistance. Then you can install the eccentric cam and set that as per the manual.

Springs ready to install to seat. Parts manual calls for the seat springs to be installed short side down so therefor the long side is to be on the seat side. Springs loosely installed short side down to seat as per manual.

You've got enough weight. You need chains. Often you can lower the blower to the ground/pavement and blow your way through. You need chains. That takes the weight off the front and effectively adds to the rear. Did I mention you need chains?

A little tough to see, but I took an old shift knob and shaft cut it and welded a clamp on it for the neighbors machine. this bracket bolted up to the plow attachment Ended up with a frame that he puts buckets of sand on for weight and traction. he is really into it!

You don't need ags ... a set of chains on turfs will make a world of difference and weight ... never hurts but all the weight in the world will not help on sheet ice. Definitely sounds like you don't have it set up right.

I sent a text to the number I have on file I will let you know if I receive a response.

Hope this is the case and Richard is safe.

Done

@nylyon Karl, would you be open to creating a file of members emergency contact numbers. It would of course be a voluntary program that only you would have access to.

In the past, I've posted pictures of my 1947 sedan delivery that I've owned since 1972. Here's a model that I put together probably 25 years ago. Actually the model's color is closer to original. I've owned it longer than I been married and that's been 48 years and two days. Not a model but scratch-build of my idea of a log cabin for my train layout. The cabin is built of foam board of the kind used on houses. Even the shingles on the roof is foam. The metal roof is aluminum foil that is rolled over the threads of a bolt to make corrugations and painted with primer.

With the correct bit, drilling the heads off would be the better option. Then use a small pipe wrench with good sharp jaws to remove the remaining studs. Kudos to you Jim for saving it from the landfill.

A worthy project! It's usually pretty easy to remove the heads from hex-socket-head screws by drilling, since the socket helps start the bit on-center. If they're hardened screws, you'll want to use cobalt-steel bits, sized about equal to the thread size. Hold the edge of the head with a vise-grip if it wants to spin. If you happen to drill one a touch off center, a light tap with a hammer and chisel (or prying with a screwdriver in the drilled hole) should pop it off. I suppose you could grind the heads off, but if there's any plastic attached, the heat from grinding could cause some melting. If your drill bits are sharp, there shouldn't be much heat.

Me thinks we are hijacking Big Unit's thread ... well what comes around goes around and that's what he gets for a hobby that most of us had.

Well what good are ya ... No curds for either of ya then ...

I drove one of those Broncos back in the day!

He better make up for his daily posts he missed!

Chains rubber or steel are the way to go. But for no cost lower the rear tire press to 3-4 psi as mentioned above. Also for the best additional low cost weight fill you tire fit rv antifreeze.

I'm just glad I had his number.

Like stated above, tire chains are a key item for snow removal. If you don't have pavement that you are worried about, then go with regular chains not the rubber chains. You will be much happier. I'm running chains on my snow pusher with out added weight. Very seldom do I have an issue with traction.

Those tires are pretty much wore out tread wise. Get chains.

I loved models as a kid. I NEVER made them pretty. I am not good at that. I would put tiny electric motors in them and make my uncontrolled model T crash for example. I will be watching!

Get yourself a good little trailer with fat ATV tires and a flat bed. You can haul 3 deer per trip!

Peerless Chain 24x10x12 ATV Tire Chains, 22x11.00x8 Minimum Tire Size, 15 lb., 2-Pack at Tractor Supply Co I also have a new set of 4 link McKay Vee Bars. PM me if interested.

What you need is a set of double link v bars. Your might have more trouble fitting any kind of chains with that battery rigamarole in the way.

This is the locking lever and that is the same length as mine on my 520.

Thanks fellas, I will keep the original pulleys and belt system..Pic of my 603 I did a decade ago. ..

With the supporter program, I have most addresses and phone numbers. Anyone can opt to add their contact information into the system, even without being a supporter. This doesn’t answer your question exactly, but I do have many phone numbers and addresses. The other thing that could be done is to create another forum similar to the talk to the moderators where anyone can enter their contact / emergency contact information and it would be viewable by only admins. If this is something which people would like, we can make that happen. Hopefully we hear from Richard soon. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/clients/info/

I have pulled many deer and timber that weighs 2X any deer with 6HP. My problem is keeping the front wheels on the ground.

How big a deer did you get? My 1967 Lawn Ranger upgraded to a 7 hp HH70 hauls a 750 lbs wagon load of coal up a hill in third. Traction is the issue not torque.

Eatons in particular, act very different from cold to warm. It's best to drive it around for 15 mins or more to warm it up before jacking the rear wheels and adjusting the cam. Even then, I have to set my brake just to be sure it won't creep. Looks like a solid tractor. Rare to see hubcaps nowadays that are relatively rust free. That tells me it was stored indoors at least. I certainly would have grabbed it for the same price you paid. Well done! Change all your fluids and filters and put it to work!

Yes, that is exactly what you should do. After the kerosene or diesel flush, I also filled with elcheapo oil, ran it for a couple hours and then drained and filled with good oil.

Hi Guys, has anyone ever thought of placing a torque converter on a round hood and then chain drive to input shaft with a sprocket? I need torque to pull deer up hill out of woods.....please be kind this is just a idea that I have...

You can mount the chains with the wheels on or off the tractor. Either way, I’d suggest deflating the tires, fitting the chains so they are even in every way and connecting the inside connector first then the outside. You may want to do this more than once to get them good and snug and evenly spaced. Then reinflate. The chains should be held in place without “snubbers” with this method. Btw, 2 link chains are better than 4 link but any chains are going to be a big improvement. good luck. PS. It’s not the Wheel Horse or the blower. It’s just lack of traction. I’ve got a 312-8 with a blower running 23 - 8.5x 12 with 2 link chains and I walk through 12” of snow on grass ( with the skids down) or on the pavement (skids up) no problem. Usually in low range 3rd gear or 1st gear hi. You may need to move your battery tray set up.

My bad ... all mine are a stub shaft in the left side cover but late model 520s. Well the hole is there ...

Will be watching your progress on this Eric. When I was younger my fascination with cars & trucks was lived out through scale models. At one time my collection included every year of Corvette from '53 - '86. My big passion laid with the 30's - 60's though, specially 55 - 57 Chevy's. I do have to admit that there is a particular Ford that also held my interest, that would be the '53 - '56 Ford truck. These fat fender beauties are just a work of art. A gave most all of my models to my wife's brothers. Honestly I haven't seen them since. Don't really want to know what happened to them.

That is true regardless of the transmission. Having the extra 4:1 Low Range reduction is huge - just like in a car or truck, you are trading off ground speed in low range to gain much more torque. The regular 1st gear in a 3 or 4 speed is 102 to 1.... 1st gear in Low Range is 408 to 1!!! The closest chain drive scenario I can come up with is like an old Minibike. Centrifugal clutch and a chain drive to the rear sprocket. Some words of caution regarding chain drives - they are intended for lower feet per minute speeds than a V belt drive. They are also unforgiving in a jam - a V belt will slip, saving the mechanism...