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Early birthday present for myself. Not perfect, but for the price I couldn’t resist.

Got it apart, what you think? A little JP Weld might work. Got a cat scan done, confirmed, cam fubar.

Front tach and hood pivot ready for assembly. Front tach lock assembly ready to install. Front tach lock and shaft partly inserted then E clip installed. Front tach lock spring slid onto shaft then shaft full inserted and E clip installed on opposite end from spring. Front tach lock slid over on shaft then the final E clip installed. Front tach lock release grip installed. Front tach latch assembly ready to install. Front tach latch pin has one E clip installed and is greased. Front tach latch pin slid into place and second E clip is installed. Latch shown in open position. Hood stop rod of my own design ready to install. I think Wheel Horse dropped the ball a bit on this design as the cotter pins get hit by the hood brackets. I use a solid 1/4" rod (you could use the original for this) slid into a piece of 3/8" tubing that has one hole drilled through to accept a cotter pin that holds everything together. Mine are all stainless steel but that is not required. Hood stop rod installed ready for cotter pin. Hood stop rod fully installed. Hood pivot assembly ready to install. There was some wear in the original rod and pivot brackets so I drilled the brackets and housing to 1/2" I then made up a 1/2" rod with holes drilled to accept cotter pins. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and Right pivot bracket slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and both pivot brackets and washers slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft fully inserted and pivot brackets and washers slid into place on shaft. Hood pivot cotter pins installed. Front tach and hood pivot assembled. This is the tool I use to install the E clips.

January 14, 1952 "Today Show" premieres with Dave Garroway & Jack Lescoulie on NBC-TV.

Today I took a portable train layout for an assisted living facility for show and tell. I had some pictures projected upon a screen of how I made some of the items and a video of my layout at home. Talked about how I got into trains (wife's uncle passed and left them to us). Answered questions how I made mountains, buildings and other items. I anticipated spending 30 minutes or so and ended up over an hour. The residents (some 20 of them) seemed to enjoy and appreciate The activities director asked who and where they rode trains. Interesting stories. Lots of laughter and memories for these folks. One funny part. I normally run my trains pretty slow--just looks more natural. Someone asked "will it go faster?" Another "Yeah, lets see it go fast." So I opened up the throttle and nearly all of them cheered! Not too bad for a 79 year old engine.

I was settin' in the shed havin' my 1st coffee & a cigarette. A reply in my original post about the exhaust valve kept eatin' at me. "Looks like a food fight goin' on in there". I got to thinkin', carbon is black, this crap is brown. I got a pick and poked around; it crumpled. I have never seen carbon crumble. I remembered the homemade muffler had some big holes in it so I removed it. Fired up the air compressor, put on a 12" blow nozzle, stood back & blew around the exhaust. Crap went everywhere, then a mud dubber nest came out.

$300 is what I gave for this C-141 Auto - and it came with a mower deck. Have patience and seek out a better deal.

Very nice. I use a combo platter of hammuh 🔨 ⚒️ screwdrivah 🪛 and call BBT.

I like trains.

Yah she's a humdinger, she has to be right in the middle everything. Found the camshaft, cleaned it up, should work. Will clean up the block, new gaskets, couple seals, I already rebuilt the fuel pump, and carburetor. Had to make bushing NLA, come out great, new shaft and made some foam gaskets out of a pre air filter .

My grandma used to say "all the Lord's creatures serve a purpose", but I have yet to uncover what some of them are...

No doubt. What a fantastic documentation and resource.

Nice catch CD

The "food fight" comment was mine. I'd say that if not cleaned, the exhaust would have been a mite restricted. Best to find that stuff now. And luckily none of the winged critters were home.

I have mine still in the box. Pd $20 at an auction!

Yeah I saw that. I picked this one up on eBay for $41.

Love the CAT scan

And can be used to set the seat back a couple extra inches.

All used same hydro. This manual cover it pretty well. You should also look at the D series manuals as the manifold system show up better there than in this manual. Also look the the pinned post at the top of this forum for o ring and seal numbers for Sunstrand hydros

Looks like a 78-79 C series going by the hood stand. But who knows, it’s been built with all sorts of parts. Worth $300? Nope

Finally got a chance to take the rear end apart had one bearing from the outside looked iffy talk to a few of you guys said split the transmission took it apart needle bearings fell out found all but five I believe went through the pump before I got the pumps rebuilt cleaned it all out put a new gasket on redid the transmission filter and back together. Thanks for all the guys for the help sure appreciate your input over the years.

My new C-145 Auto came with a real nice seat. It’s new or like new, made of rubber and not vinyl so it’s still flexible in the cold. Would love to find another, but can’t figure out who made it. The only clue is the word PERSONS in the rubber (see picture). It even has the correct bolt pattern for our tractors!!! Anyone know who made it? Or does anyone have the same seat that might have a brand name sticker under it.

Other day I was helpin @Achto with a K91 and there were dauber nests in the head & engine fins. I tried digging them out of the head with the jack knife and they were like concrete. Them devils can be worse than mice. I've got outlets in the overhead of the lean to on the warehouse for battery tenders and every one the ground hole was filled with a nest.

Sold one just like that at the show last year; it came out of the recycling yard at work. It came off of a Wal-Mart jazzy scooter, had the correct 7 x 7.5 bolt pattern.

Me too.

Update: $250 for seal kits and fluid (might still need a little more fluid) and a week (8 days from order to receipt of parts) of twiddling my thumbs, but I think it's fixed: This is actually the second trip up, I put it up last night too, so far no leaks found.

They provided targets for my Red Ryder in the pole barn i had when we lived in Ky. Got pretty good at knocking them off of the rafters that way.

@jsoluna That post is THE definitive reference for your front tach o matic.

Hmmm. is the cam the source of the problem or is it the victim here?? Did you break the connecting rod?? I ask because I bought two C81's years ago. One ran but was tired; the other broke the connecting rod, snapped the cam in two and blew out the back cam mount. And ventilated the block bigtime. I did save the head, flywheel, tins, oil pan , points & coil though...

1.5” square tube can also give the seat a bit of extra height for us folks with longer lower limbs.

Not that I am admitting The Squonky is right but ... yeah some so us are as pure of tractor as we are of mind ... It's a procedure where you have a piece of plate glass with a sheet of say 400 grit or better wet /dry emery paper taped to it. It provides a surface that you can sand the halves flat . Note KP's pic where the half is slightly warped. Glassing removes them. I prefer to do it wet as it floats away particles. Same procedure for glassing a head & plenty of you tubes on doing it. If you overtighten the the screws it will squeeze the diaphragm too much at the corners leaving a gap where those warped areas are. Extreme overtightening can even warp the halves further. On doing a head ... same principle headgasket.pdf

I absolutely love these tractors. I will enjoy following along on this one! I just realized, I’m in trouble. Now I want one. 😇

Sure can. I've used plate steel and square bar stock in the past. I'd also recommend getting some proper sized good quality fender washers for the bottom of the pan/fender to help spread the load.

Looks to have a Honda or Honda clone on it. I don't think it's worth it because it's missing lots of OE parts.

Looks to be a mutant. Incorrect engine, questionable front wheel modifications. The biggie - no belt guard. Missing one or both foot rests. Only worth it if ALL the OE parts come with it - in useable condition. My

My wife recorded me plowing snow on Dec 11 but I just got the video from her now to post it. The 520HC worked well as always.

I did find some info on bike seats as well, but nothing about tractor seats.

TSC used to sell those. Not sure if they still do.

Whatever price you and the seller are equally happy or upset about... Aside from the myriad of models and perceptions of condition may be, they tend to be more expensive the closer you get to warm weather, as well as what geographic location you find it. Otherwise they have no market standards. "New old stock" prices are typically close to original prices or higher. No other metric is carved in stone.

At my first Big Show, a member I’d never met pressed me to take an initial cruise around the show to get a feel for the place--using his Suburban! He gave me the required warnings about the “wheelie” tendency and not to over-choke it. Off I went. It has taken iron discipline to limit myself on acquiring more.

I forgot to add, I believe you could make an adapter plate pretty easy for these and that would keep you from drilling extra holes in seat pan.

Electric and don't look back. HAPPY MOTORING!!

Those rat rod tractors show up in marketplace up here - to me personally they're not worth anything - most are cut up and beat to pieces like that one.

I only modeled the hydraulic surfaces from the intake to the discharge. So I never got involved with the size or shape of the upper and lower reservoirs. I only needed the max and min water levels and the flow rates to conduct the model tests. There was one TVA project where the prototype index test showed 4.5% less HP output than the model test. After extensive testing and inspection of the new runners we supplied and of the modifications we made to the draft tube shapes, we determined the turbine was not seeing the correct flow. Divers were sent down upstream of the intake and discovered a silt build up that was blocking a lower corner of the intake. Using a Garmin depth/fish finder with GPS I made a map of the silt and installed the same scaled down obstruction on the model. The model test now matched the lower output of the prototype. There is a lot of reluctance to disturb these silt deposits. I do not know if TVA ever removed the silt or just lived with the reduced output.

...also lengthening the life of countless ship propellers and enabling fast quiet submarines. My work for the Lewiston project had do do with mapping the bottom of the reservoir to help plan remediation for leakage. The reservoir, as you probably know, was built on flat ground surrounded by a high levee. The ground wasn’t as impermeable as the original builders surmised!

I, for one, really enjoy the rabbits that are chased in this site. You all have brought insight and caused me to study outside the realm of this Redsquare just by chasing rabbits. I would lots rather be stimulated to study about things that I have never even thought about be it Wheelhorse wise or a host of other topics than watching Oprah.

Happy New Year everyone !!! With the day off I figured I'd take advantage of getting paid to work on my own stuff. A little progress report for y'all. First off I degreased the parts so that they would be ready for the blast cabinet. With the dishes done it was time to move on to repairs. First off get the drag link that a PO welded to the fan gear removed. Hood stand had some fatigue cracks that needed to be addressed. Tool box also had some fatigue cracks. Drilled some holes at the end of the cracks, beveled them out & welded them up. @AlexR was recently asking about spindle repairs. The spindles on this tractor had some pretty severe wear. I welded these then trimmed them back down to size with a grinder & a file. Bearing now fits snug on the spindle. That's all for today.

Plan on changing the cord. When you do, install a three wire cord and ground the metal case. There is probably a screw inside the handle that can be used for this. Also, plug tools like that into a GFCI outlet when using. I had an old metal drill 30 years ago that I was nearly electrocuted by. I am somewhat leary of old electric tools for that reason, though I appreciate the quality compared to modern tools.

I have a couple door stop shaped wood wedges that I tap in the gaps between the frame and the top of the front axle.

An old fashion floor jack works well for removing rear tires. Just be careful as the tractors tend to be right side heavy and the frame will revolve on the front axle pivot pin....