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Picked up an early Raider 12 just before Christmas. Seller said he had rebuilt the trans but it stopped moving while he was plowing snow and he thought he snapped the input shaft. That didn't sound quite right to me and I suspected the key for the drive pulley was a more likely suspect. We agreed on a price delivered. The tractor came with a 42" snow blade mounted, a 42" mower deck with only one small rust hole, and extra pair of rear wheels and tires and tire chains. He also threw in a Harbor Freight 20 Ton press. He dropped it off and while I was pushing it to the shed the left rear wheel and hub came off. I immediately thought that might be its mobility issue. I got the wheel back on and pushed it in the shed. I finally got to work on it today after work. I picked up a couple Woodruff keys and stuck one in, it also needed a battery. It starts easy, runs pretty good with no smoke or obnoxious noises AND it moves in all gears. It's seeping a little where the case halves meet and it has a catch going into reverse so I'll open it back up and take care of those items. The drive belt is in pretty rough shape too and when I put a load on it, it stopped moving until I let it sit for a minute for the belt to cool so I have a new one on the way. Plan is for this one to be my new mower and the blade will go on my old Raider 9 after an engine transplant. This is the seller's pic from the ad, not much to look at but it's all there and functional....

January 7, 1968, U.S. space probe Surveyor 7 was launched and, a few days later, made a soft landing on the Moon.

The other brothers story. Pretty cool history and always good reading.

I worked in the oil patch & refineries my entire career. When I started trying to take it apart, that little guy inside said you're peein' in the wind. When I had Liquid Wrench comin' out the bottom of the nut and it wasn't turnin' I KNEW I was in trouble. Two 18inch pipe wrenches and a 4lb hammer later, it's apart. Threads in nut are flat. Useless, but it's apart. I listened to you guys and feel good!

@Bill D I believe it was. Recommended tapping on to the positive side of the coil feed. That way the fuel pump is connected to any safety switches that may be in play also, it gets power during the starting and running phases of the ignition switch.

Some won't agree on my method and that's okay. This is what this C-120 looked like when It was dropped off to me many years ago. I used simple green to clean it then a scotch bright pad then simple green again then wiped all that off with a damp sponge. After it was dry I applied WD-40 on a cotton rag maybe a couple times a year. Repainted the rims. I still own it. Works for me without a repaint.

Here ya go EB ... I ain't gonna tell ya some bozo threw this one on the scrap pile at my old shop...

Sold a ‘73 10-8speed this summer. Guy picked it up in a minivan.

I have seen aluminum and hard fiber bowl bolt gaskets.

Important to understand that for aftermarket carbs, "compatibility” does not mean faithful replica. It means it’ll probably work, @ebinmaine’s observation about throttle bores and needle valve capacity being too small (or too large) comes from one carb body often being sold as usable on too wide a range of engines. Also, for the aftermarket carbs I’ve touched, all of them had metric-threaded needle valves and none of them adhered to the OEM manual’s guidance on “initial number of turns” for valve settings. (In fairness, all three worked well enough out-of-the-box to run the engine and I was able to tweak to good performance.) It is pointless to try to use a set number of turns. I heartily recommend that the first thing to do with an aftermarket carb’s valves is count precisely how many turns it takes to gently close each as-delivered valve--it is very likely that it was the correct initial setting from the factory and now you can easily put it back in that position whenever you choose! If the engine is running and warm, then set wide open throttle (WOT). Now turn the high speed valve slowly first in one direction until the engine falters. Turn slowly back in the other direction until the engine again falters. Now turn to the midpoint of those two positions or very slightly richer (counter-clockwise). Idle the engine (to the manual-recommended idle speed!) and do the same for the idle mixture.

After you get used to the clutch & brake on separate sides. Then I'll have you come over & drive my pulling tractor. Left foot is clutch/brake like normal, right foot is gas. Always have to remind my self what tractor I'm on.

Those valves should come out to properly clean them and the ports. It appears that the seats need to be freshened and likely the valves. You should be able to find a spring compressor similar to the Kohler one on ebay. Hopefully you have downloaded the engine manual so you can service and adjust the valves correctly. The bowl may have had a fiber gasket on the screw.

If you need a replacement I can see what we have...

Wow! That was stuck. Maybe a member can fix you up with some used pieces to get you going.

But... do add in inline fuse between the coil feed and the pump.

So kinda funny story. I've been working/playing with the C160-8 and 12hp-6 tractors last couple a days. Keep in mind the 160 has separate clutch and brake pedals and the 12hp has clutch and brake on one pedal. I was going down steep grade on the 12hp and clutch spring broke. So, I essentially had a runaway horse going straight for the pond . I went a pretty good ways down the hill before I realized the brake was on the left foot instead of the right. Had to check my bloomers when I got stopped. Never had a clutch spring break before and they will not hold back if there is no spring on there, you can hold pedal back with the heel of your foot but still exciting trying to stop thinking the brake was on my right hand side foot. I was in 3rd on the high side so was moving along pretty good.

33RD ANNUAL ANTIQUE ENGINE & TRACTOR SHOW FEATURING INTERNATIONAL, FORD AND NEW HOLLAND READ MORE This is a 4-day show Wednesday – Saturday Our largest show of the season where we FEATURE a specific NASGRASS Lawnmower Racing Demonstrations – Feb 27th at 5PM Flywheel Engine & Tractor Antique Flywheel Engines and Tractors of every color on display Running a 1914 – 400hp Snow Engine Functioning Sawmill Demonstrations Antique Construction Equipment Demonstrations. Model “T” Put-Together 11 am & 3 pm Kids Pedal Tractor Pulls, Friday & Saturday 11 am Daily Antique Tractor Pulls, Daily Antique Car Parade starting at 10:30 am Daily Antique Tractor Parade at 2:00 pm. Florida Flywheeler Antique Engine Club Gift Shop is open Huge Flea Market Antique Village to wander through The gates are open from 8:00am – 4:00pm https://floridaflywheelers.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/FFW-Flyer-2025-2026.pdf

It did leave two streaks in the grass A third brown streak would have been bad...

Custom tractor and just didn't look right with the tires inset. Plus to match the wide fronts. Yes the spacer studs were 1/2-20 but even with reaming the holes could go back to 7/16 hardware.

Oil attracts dirt.

I won't say I had to, but I've used spacers on several machines. They work well but you do need to be careful if using a mower deck because of the deck gage wheels clearance. You'll have to ream your bolt holes on your wheels to 1/2. They type of spacer also needs to be open in the center to fit a WH hub. You'll also need to use 7/16x20 bolts at about 1 and 1/4 length or raised head studs to hold the spacers on. I've never had good luck using WH wheel bolts with spacers. The heads are usually too large to get a standard socket on them inside the spacer.

There is not much clearance on my 520. I always cut the inside side chain to the exact length and connect the ends with one of these connectors. Then pull the chains to the outside with the cam lock connector and install spring tensioners. This minimizes the thickness of the inside chain.

I’ve never been used to the two pedal machines. Even the ones I have with two pedals I don’t use much.

Excellent series! Welcome and thank you for going through the legal process of becoming a US Citizen!

Absolutely! I have been watching Ken Burns Civil War and it is fascinating! I’m actually about to celebrate my first year of being a US citizen on January 14. Moved down here in 1999 from Canada for my job.

Well, both will get the proper respect if either go thru my shop here.... Ironically, the tractor in question is named "Good 'Nuff" - way too much hacked up & butchered tidbits, as @Sparky can attest. Years of machining have taught me valuable lessons in Shop Practices & Safe Operation. Do it once, do it right. The First Aid Kit is on the door across from the Milling Machine and I dust it off every month or so. And now I have the vise for other tasks....

It's not ... the pin only locks it flat. The handle on the backside locks it at angle. Works fine We workin on the lunar rover or a garden tractor Bill?

More "testing" today. Really like this setup. A. Thank you @JoeM for sending the side scoops here! B. I'm thinking seriously about expanding the width of the straight plow. Maybe as much as 60".

@ C D LONG JR , got a parts hint on that mule drive ? that thread assembly should be fairly easy to replace , done a number of them , the belt pulleys , as just posted by @ ebinmaine he might be able to help you out , was going to emphasize the careful cleanout of related belt pulleys , take a picture of original of placement , and washers , shure he will set you up correctly , good luck , pete

Facet 60245 or 60304. Mr. Gasket 42s. Carter P4070. All of the above pumps are regulated at 4 PSI or less.

Exactly. Couldn't have said it better myself.

I have several of that engine and one Magnum 16. My experience shows me they DO NOT like aftermarket carbs. They are nearly all too small to feed that engine. I've seen two of the "Isave" carbs that have gone bad in a fairly short time. IMHO what you need to do is: 1. Replace that carb with a real one that is rebuilt properly. 2. Replace every single inch of fuel line that you have. 3. Remove, clean, and replace the fuel pump and the fuel tank. Notwithstanding all of the above, ethanol is a huge issue especially with older fuel lines and older fuel pumps that have not yet been rebuilt.

It did take my breath away for a second. U sure think about things different the older you get, just a few years ago it wouldnt have even fazed me

The recent wind and freezing rain has finally knocked about 95% of the leaves out of the red oaks on my property. Too bad they are now laying under and in the snow cover like hunks of wet leather. But, cheer up, they will still be there in the spring.

@Pullstart - I was mowing downhill towards the lake one day when it was sort of damp. That hill is short, but steep enough that it is uncomfortable to drive the tractor up. In the damp, I found that the open diff was allowing the tire with the most traction to roll forwards, while the other tire was slipping in reverse. Was an interesting ride - fortunately in slow motion. I use a string trimmer on that section of yard now.

A set of these & you should not need to ream out the holes in your rim. Just get longer wheel studs. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/65058/10002/-1

I've used both oil and Penetrol. I prefer Penetrol.

Looks great so far to me. You've got a solid machine and it looks like you are doing everything right. Keep it up and this tractor will last another 30+ years!

I have got tires from them, they add it after you give the card information, pretty high price for slapping a address tags on or add a couple of plastic strap's to hold them together. I look around and couldn't fine any and cheaper. I ordered some OR 360 23 x 10.50 x 12 6ply. The places I found them wanted more without the tax for 4 ply.

Ran out of daylight, but the reassembly fun continues… right now a lot of it is just dry fitting all the parts and making sure all the holes and everything lineup nice and putting things back in the proper order. Was really happy with the way the aluminum dash console cleaned up on the inside… It was quite a mess with corrosion! I was not able to get the pin out of the steering wheel… No matter what I tried… Even a hydraulic press. So I decided to just sever the steering shaft and it will get reinserted and spot welded. Fortunately, I’ve got lots of leather and fireproof blankets to throw over the machine when I weld the steering shaft back together. should make for an interesting video lol.

I was looking at spacers similar to the ones from Jegs. I think that’s the route I’m going to take. Here’s a pic to show how close the chains are. I think a 1/2” will give it enough clearance to be good. I appreciate all the input

Cardboard... and I just picked up 10 gallons of rec gas in Mrs Sylvan's car... all windows open there and back... ssshhh...

I use the fiber washer but can get them at local hardware store. I have tried it with out the fiber washer and they will leak, just in case you're wondering.

I put off going to the Big Show for years and regret it. I finally got to go last year and had a great time and got to make some great acquaintances. I will warn you though I took one tractor with me (GT14) that I sold on here, but brought back home 3 tractors (551,856, and a 1257) and some more goodies.

I have learned always always always take new carb apart and give it a good cleaning. I have seen a lot of junk in "NEW" carbs. If you haven't already it would be a good time to replace all fuel lines and filters. I include cleaning/rebuilding fuel pumps in my regular routine as well, but you might get by without messing with fuel pump, I don't chance it anymore. If the carb doesn't change while trying to adjust high speed or idle circuit, then it has trash/junk in it..

You did.

Possible blasphemy, but wondering if all y’all have noticed that a Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna will get highway mpg in the very high 20’s and, with the rear seats folded/removed would keep your tractor coddled and out of the weather. Heated steering wheel is an option in both.

A lot of times when people get into this hobby, they make a mistake where they want it to shine and look new. I’ve been there done that a few times. Much time involved and I guess when you get older, you just think that it’s not worth it. That’s why I’m at it happily just enjoying what I have for what it is. Just my two cents.

Finished transaxle drain and refill on the 12hp-8 No Name today. New shifter boot, magnetic drain plug and swapped the 8.50’s for some 10.50’s on back. Oh yeah installed bolts/studs on back wheels. Made mounting the loaded Carlisle alot easier.