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Finished transaxle drain and refill on the 12hp-8 No Name today. New shifter boot, magnetic drain plug and swapped the 8.50’s for some 10.50’s on back. Oh yeah installed bolts/studs on back wheels. Made mounting the loaded Carlisle alot easier.

I still like a 16 Oz hammer for framing. Going in tomorrow for a rebuild on my right hand eyeball tomorrow. Opted for the de-luxe replacement lens with astigmatism correction. If it turns out as well as the left eye rebuild, it will make my accuracy much better when using the 16 Oz framing hammer.

I vote out house .

I run 30W Rotella all year round. Cold weather or not.

I just wanna say you guys made a believer outta me! Look at the head bolts, they have Liquid wrench the entire length. That spray, hammer every time you walk by a wait a few days really works! Head bolts all seemed to be the same tightness. 2 whacks with the heel of my hand and they came loose. Put a pick under the head gasket & it popped right off. Exhaust valve has a lot of debris around it. Cylinder walls are smooth, no nicks or gouges. The mule pulley guard nut came off with the same technic. Pulleys spin freely. I don't understand why the belt wouldn't come thru them. Haven't tried the tension adjuster yet. Found the regulator mounting bolts are loose.

Keep up the good revival/maintenance on that old horse

Leatherman (Glenn Hughes) was a fraternity brother and college housemate of mine before he got the gig with the People.

January 6, 1979, Village People's "Y.M.C.A." becomes their only UK #1 single; at its peak, it sells over 150,000 copies per day.

Important that they get built properly! Personally, I’ve gone down to a 12oz hammer but with a longer handle--seems easier on my arm and just as much power.

yes, I do that treatment yearly. I have a vent down stream of the tank and pour the crystals, about a pound, in there and put a hose into the vent and let it run for a minute or two No issues for the last ten years.

I also run straight 30 weight year round, tractors are in a cold barn, they all start right up.

30W Mobil 1 year round for mine. My wood hauling snow plowing tractor is stored in the heated shop during the winter.

I'm with Squonk on this one I have a 1979 c-101 (bought new) kept in unheated shed, used for only snow removal now and have used Rotella 30 for many years . No engine problems, a little oil use, not much, but it is almost a 50 year oil engine! Oil changed yearly since it doesn't mow grass anymore but has moved tons of snow in its life.

Yes, that would be fine.

So kinda funny story. I've been working/playing with the C160-8 and 12hp-6 tractors last couple a days. Keep in mind the 160 has separate clutch and brake pedals and the 12hp has clutch and brake on one pedal. I was going down steep grade on the 12hp and clutch spring broke. So, I essentially had a runaway horse going straight for the pond . I went a pretty good ways down the hill before I realized the brake was on the left foot instead of the right. Had to check my bloomers when I got stopped. Never had a clutch spring break before and they will not hold back if there is no spring on there, you can hold pedal back with the heel of your foot but still exciting trying to stop thinking the brake was on my right hand side foot. I was in 3rd on the high side so was moving along pretty good.

we are told ---- the kohler engines are designed for SAE 30 oil above 32 degrees --- and a thinner oil is designed for use during colder winter temps -- eg: 5w-30. Question: if a tractor is kept indoors -- at 55 degrees during winter before starting -- is it ok to keep the SAE 30 weight oil in it for winter since the oil will not be cold before starting -- and then oil stays warm once its running?

I can do that, I'm pretty sure it's just rust holding rust together at this point but in the name of science we should know for sure

3rd place in the points in our club was won by a SimpleCity last year. Running a belt off from a right angle gear box. I.E. SimpleCity stock factory legit. Like I stated, I've drug my stock-ish 14hp down to it's last pop many times. I plan on building a new engine this year. A stock-ish 16hp with a bit more $$ thrown at it. Hopefully I get get a few more pops out of it before it gives up.

I'm using an off the shelf spring from Ace Hardware on mine. Choose it by the length of my old one but with a heavier gauge wire. Have drug my motor down to it's very last pop several times without slipping the 5/8" wide belt.

Was going to say the same thing, I did buy mine from Giga but I didn't realize until about an hour after that they added a handling fee at the end that made them slightly more expensive than if I had ordered from Walmart, couldn't cancel the order after that amount of time. The tires did arrive and everything was fine but I won't be using them again since they bait and switch the prices so badly.

The fire ring and metal-clad gasket is what the commenter meant. There is gasket material as a middle layer between the metal outer layers.

Finished the head clean up. Found a use for the PB Blaster. Seems to cut carbon pretty good. Sprayed the head, waited 30 minutes and hit it with the Dremel using SS brushes.

As I said in another post I've been using that - amongst other proven products - for years. Remember to replace the head bolts with new Grade 8 when reassembling. One other rusty bolt removal trick. TIGHTEN the bolt just a tiny bit. Then loosen. Repeat multiple times going a little more each time.

Nothing unusual jumping out at me from those images. Keep on going! Good to see no erosion of the head or piston near the exhaust valve, too. Lotsa life left in that engine. Note the “fire ring” of metal on the inner circumference of the head gasket. Ideally, your replacement should have the same feature as this makes for the longest-lasting seal.

Grownups here who recognize that other grownups get to make their own decisions! Whatever makes you smile about that tractor is what you should go ahead and do.

Started transaxle change after pressure washing all the garden dust off the 12hp no name. Going to let her drain overnight. New shifter boot, Engine oil and brake drum seal next on the list..

As a rule I prefer not to use tape on anything that carries oil, but I have used it in fuel lines. Just be sure to allow a thread or two at the edge to be free of tape just to keep it out of the system. Liquid sealers work best in my opinion, but the same rule applies to keep it out of the tip so if doesn't get into the lines.

Happy Birthday @stevebo, we are all glad you were born.

@sqrlgtr dare I say it ? how bout every related movement point ? penetrating oil first , make the rust run out , then red aerosol spray grease extension tube , total set up smooth / easy . pete

Keep us posted!! I figure with a head shave and maybe freeing up the valve area the 16 HP should knock out 22 plus easy.

IMHO in the stock classes a belt drive does just fine. I don't pull for competition. Seen it a couple times. I do pull for livelihood. We tug some trailers full o' wood or logs up the hill outta the forest that are on nasty terrain and well over 1000 lbs. Belt slip is NEVER an issue.

What I see is the engine is worn but not worn out. As Don said, there is plenty of good life left in it. The "clean" side of the piston top is common, tends to run a little cooler than the exhaust side. The clean ring does not go completely around the top of the piston - that's good. Rings are somewhat worn but doing their job. Turn the engine over by hand to where the exhaust valve is the highest off the seat. Inspect & clean the valve face & seat. Severe pitting or any cracks require a partial teardown... The metal fire ring is found on the OE head gasket - newer versions do not have it....

I don't see any difference in the way each tractor starts, no matter if it's summer or winter.

Mine lives in a cold outside shed with a battery tender on it, has lived like this for over 40 years and as long as the battery is good, starts every time in the winter.

Got some more tear down done today and another batch of parts through the dip tank, im cleaning them up and hitting with some primer until I have everything ready to go back together. The only think I found that was in really tough shape was the battery tray. Anyone have one laying around they could part with? Otherwise I think I'd just make a replacement.

@CD Long Jr good going on that mr long ! totally agree on the exposed condition , would take advantage of that , with that rislone , zinc varnish cutting action , enhance that , and helps maintain clean / clear rings , think I would start it off with a 10-30 shell rotella, for a lubrication heating transition , for initial engine wake up . get some time on it , would bet that engine will be happy . would also change out that rubber hose fuel set up , probably totally broken down , the more of it you change out , the better . also a tank cleaning , remove the tank lower fuel valve , replace it , like a filter just after fuel valve ,and another close to carb . you are doing very good , your not crazy , we are , pete

I've had a couple of tractors that were stupid loud. Timing was advanced on both. Engine was laboring a little . Setting the timing helped some

I have a K301 that runs great but is stupid loud even with a new muffler. Much louder than a 14 or even FILs 16hp. Valve adjustment made no difference. Figured I'd have to go into it to figure it out...

Brake shaft rides directly on the differential bull gear. If it doesn't turn when the tractor rolls, something is wrong. You will likely have to open the case and have a look. Possibly a busted differential.

Check your timing.

I run straight Rotella 30w year round also. No problems. Forgot to add I have used the Valvoline racing oil also it is specifically designed for solid lifters.

Thanks, I hadn't ever thought about using a gasket maker for fuel fittings before. I think I will stick with the tape though, I usually end up with the gasket maker all over everything time I get done . I guess this goes without saying but the Teflon tape has to be gas resistant don't ask me how I know. .

Just an update on the Deestone's 4.00-8's. Found myself needing to order some front tires and when I got to the punch here to order button at Giga tire there was a 24$ handling fee added and tires had doubled in price. So I went with a different outfit (Wally W) that ended up being less then $22 a piece at least half as much as I can get local. I hate it when these places try and hide fees and slip them in an ya....

Yeah, I think I'll let that patina set in...😀

At least it looks pretty

I used 1/4" rubber gas line on my 300's. Also helps the use 3/8" bolts and flat washers with locking nuts at the hinge. Might need to replace or repair worn hinges,

Looks like alot of thought went into it. A shot of red paint and it'll look like factory made. Of course, there is science backing what happens next when one part gets fresh paint!

Finally got the center console base and hood shot with paint after a lot of sanding some very minor Bondo prep and several sanded coats of primer. normally, I enjoy painting, but this project has been a little more frustrating, but it’s going slowly. Patience.

Fabricated some Heim joints for my steering upgrade. Always a good day when you get to spark up the welder. Will be nice to have some adjustability.