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I agree with Achto that too much weight may cause something mechanical to let go, a little tire slip is not a bad thing. I have a 1979 c-101 with (turf tires and 2 link chains) (best combo in my opinion for snow) 80 lbs on each rear wheel and # 40 chain on fronts for steering. A 10" cement block filled with cement, (weight unknown) on rear and have zero problem pushing as much snow as the plow can handle. It has been set up this way for 40 plus years with no mechanical problems, and has moved tons of western Pa snow ( Laurel Highlands). Bob

Weight and traction aids and tires are highly dependent on what you have to plow. Eric has success with loaded big tires. i prefer narrow old 6.00 x 12s with chains and weights. I have never had the same success as others with no weights and just aggressive tires. again depends on your surfaces you have to experiment ...

12, 22, 2025 we do it by the numbers on Mathematics Day. Exploring patterns, solving puzzles, and understanding the world through numbers – it's a journey of discovery that's endlessly fascinating. Mathematics plays a crucial role in understanding all sorts of subjects such as science, music, social studies and even art. The study of mathematics helps people to learn better problem solving skills and serves as a way to help humans organize and think logically. Mathematics Day is here to celebrate and appreciate everything that this discipline has to offer to individuals and to the world at large.

I run tires from a walk behind snow blower on the front, turf tires with chains on the back and no added weight on either end. Very seldom have any issues pushing snow. Different type of plowing. I have a 50lb wheel weight on the right rear wheel, 120lbs of wheel weights on the left rear wheel, and 50lbs hanging out in front of the tractor. I've pulled this plow many miles with very little issue. Weight is helpful, too much can cause mechanical issues. Some thing has to give, if the tires don't give something else eventually will.

Might get a demerit for this, but here goes. Anyone ever seen Wheel Horse Rye Whiskey? Me and my Son saw it a a local establishment and decided to get a bottle. I have been wanting some Rye Whiskey. About half way gone and have decided it is prettty good. I had some Rock and Rye a few years ago up in PA. uh-oh, I hear a WH calling...... Merry Christmas to all. Dennis

All: The center pivot hole in the C81 Axle had a bit of wear, so I decided to drill & ream it for bushings. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the hole was visibly not centered in the boss; I decided to correct that as the best I could. The 3/4" ID bushing has a 7/8" OD - I could use a Boring Head and safely relocate the center about 2/3rds of the 1/16" bushing wall thickness and still have material left to ream to size. If I had a larger wall bushing & reamer, I could have re-centered it.... First photo shows the new center moved .040 with a light cut. The second shows the interrupted cut as the boring bar is moved outward. Third shows the hole at .840 diameter where it became round again. Last photo is the finished reamed .875 diameter hole.

Yep. @wallfish introduced me to it a few years ago.

Yes. I have both the rye and their bourbon... good stuff... I even worked in a bottle of the first batch rye on a WH deal with @Pullstart... I'm the ugly one with the bottle...

If you are referring to horizontal rotation degree position, my opinion is they are ok. Vertical height is mainly fixed by spindle shaft and a spacer washer. The cut height of course is a bit affected that way. A bent down/up blade, usually can kinda eye ball that, sloppy spindle mounting, or bad bearings would show up in cut appearance as well as bent or damaged gauge height wheels. Anyway it looks like it has all going good!!! "Have a great day every day"

My math skills involve having to take my shoes off to get past ten. My son however who is autistic is a regular freakin rain man when it comes to math tho.

Father Mike I beg for forgiveness for my shortcoming. Obviously this was an unforgivable oversite and as penitent gesture I will say 100 Uni-Drives and 50 Tach-A-Matics. If I were to confess all my sins it would go like this

It’s a warm day here in MA so I brought out the 1993 314-8 and the deck for a last cleaning of the season.

Finished fuel pump rebuild for C160. Try and install on tractor tomorrow .

Here is a video of a local road I have driven hundreds of times but not if there is snow. Staring at about the four minute mark you will see that the guard rail on the right side of the road delineates the edge of the road where the drop off is from 40 feet to 100 feet. Tractor trailers are prohibited from using the road but a couple of times a year some hapless driver using a GPS not intended for big rigs will get on that stretch, frequently resulting in a spectacular crash. The posted speed limit is 35 and are strictly enforced by the natural forces of gravity centrifugal force. Enjoy the ride.

My sister saw this and for some reason thought of me... Just a thought for your Christmas dinner table... and Santa's tractor is even the correct color...

I've always had ag tires in back with tri ribs on front loaded with rimgaurd for weight. I do run chains sometimes (when I had dedicated wheels/tires set up for chains) and it does make a big difference but really have not had any trouble without them, just have to make sure I push a clear lane on first pass so to be sure I can get back up the hills . I can see where a lot more weight might be needed with a blower on front though. IMO too much weight can be a handicap in certain situations. just my .

Rotational position is not factor on these belt driven 3 blade decks. Only the 2 blade gear drive decks need to be positioned correctly.

If the heavy black wires go directly to the Battery and Starter/Generator A terminal Wheelhorse parts and More has one that should work. What is wrong with your current switch https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/4988-7263-starter-generator-key-switch/

Same here. I've tried AGs with no chains. NEVER AGAIN. We have just enough tilt to the area being plowed that there's no "bite" without chains.

Thanks for the input there is a 2 stage on the front of that 520hc. I’m really enjoying it. Having some small problems but getting there! Loosing spark occasionally that I will soon remedy and general maintenance.

@oldlineman love that type of plowing , experimented with MOWER GUARD . GRAPHITE SPRAY ON MY PLOW BLADE , last summer ? let the hot sun bake it on , forgot all about it , till recent snow plowing , the immediate response I got was the SNOW BLADE SLIDE OFF . SEAMED TO BARELY LOAD THE BLADE , looking things over , there was no snow stuck on the blade , regularly BACK PLOW , to my farthest edge , that gives me a place to plow to , thats empty . if I were to try it now , would use a heat lamp on cleaned blade , made to protect mower decks , made by slip plate , might even spray my snow bower walker . pete

Hood stand plate ready to assemble. Headlight switch installed onto hood stand plate. Ignition switch installed onto hood stand plate. Volt gauge installed onto hood stand plate. Hour meter installed onto hood stand plate. This is the original hour meter from this tractor but I put a piece of black tape over the Toro name (I hope it stays on).

You’re more than forgiven … your contributions to RS are noted and appreciated and missing National Flashlight Day isn’t a big deal (none of my friends sent me a NFD card , it’s almost like nobody knew about it, odd right )

.. NATIONAL FLASHLIGHT DAY!!! @953 nut how could you have missed this one . Yeah yeah, maybe it’s because I have 200 or so old flashlights here, many are over 100 years old. “National Flashlight Day is celebrated on December 21, coinciding with the winter solstice, the longest night of the year. This day highlights the importance of flashlights, a simple yet essential tool in our lives. Originating from the invention of the dry cell battery and the mini incandescent light bulb, flashlights have illuminated our paths in darkness and served various practical purposes. National Flashlight Day not only celebrates the utility of the flashlight but also aligns with the winter solstice, emphasizing the significance of light during the darkest times.”

Wiring with varnish insulation and any solvent that can dissolve grease are not gonna play well together. There are special cleaners for electronics that are useable safely on printed circuit boards, variable capacitors, etc. etc

Ever tried Super Clean in the purple spray bottles? I buy it by the gallon and use it on everything. Rubber gloves strongly recommended. Rinse off with water. Second application and it is ready for paint.

Great calandar, My last time to make was May 2012 😂

Do you think if you were reeeal carefull might use carb cleaner?

Sounds like its leaning out to me but a bad condenser will make um act funny also. I always heard its very rare for a condenser to go bad, but I've had 3 go bad myself, two where on a 6volt VW bugs and one was on a k341 Kohler. Might be worth a try if you have a known good condenser to swap just to see if anything changes, but if I was a betting man I'd say carb is full of drugs.

Mostly a whining noise I bet. Funny thing I put tractors away for the winter and they are quiet. Get them out in the spring and there're noisy. Sometimes goes away after run time sometimes not. Bearings are a real common 6203-2RS. lemme know you need them I buy them in bulk. Greasy Pete will tell you to pick a seal out, clean & repack with red tacky. Really not the worst idea. Stock up on brake cleaner you will go through a full can cleaning the body. End bells can go in a parts cleaner but NOT the body. Same with the armature use the blowgun and brake cleaner. Wear gloves the carbon will NOT come off hands. Put up a pic of the commutator will school ya on servicing that.

Got a few minutes to work on cleaning the engine flywheel and inside the housing. Not sure how I'm gonna degrease this beast. Open to suggestions there.

That switch wasn't made for high amp output and could have easily fried. You'll want to get the correct switch to avoid potential disaster. The correct one was posted in the link above.

Go figure..I have one in my collection . Even with brand new batteries it’s not very bright, would hate to be lost and depending on it to be seen/found.

It could happen. Buying a quality pump minimizes the risk.

@KeithRogers did you drain / change the trans oil ? regularly check mine on my tractors , always top off tank , sta bil fuel treatment , engine oil , statis , that trans drain , should also include a drive around with a flushing agent , like hi mileage ATF fluid and put some time / miles on it , use every gear and range , also raise up front on jack stands for more drainage , new shift boot ? just regular maint for me , no issues or problems , start a regular look / see for anything , ex rust running out of a neglected movement point ? penetrating oil spray first , for creeping , like aerosol red grease , ex tube for detail spray , have no lubrication starved movement points , pete

With the pin and the USN engraving, makes me think it was a lamp to be pinned to clothing as a locator akin to the strobes on emergency lift jackets these days.

Yes they can fail and feed gas to the crankcase...I assume that is why he recommends a high quality pump. Myself I just go to electric and avoid any chance of gas in the crankcase

Most folks would be unpleasantly surprised how often us truckers have to do things like that...

@sqrlgtr I don’t get on here much since @TonyToro Jr. has me doing lots of other projects. Lol if you haven’t bought tires yet Miller tire will match tire diameters for you.The Cheng Shins are amazing tires. You won’t be disappointed for pulling. I also know a few guys who have sharpened them and work much better. Some say they bite better than the pro cut. If you can cut and sharpen your own there are a few choices. Also look for the lowest ply tire in what ever brand you choose.

My FIL and I used to plow snow at several of the Mills by the Pawtuxet River years ago. One Mill in particular had a narrow wooden bridge spanning the River between the main building and the Heating Plant. That was a private service road; the bridge had NO railings and the Company insisted that ALL the snow be removed off the deck surface. It took all my attention watching the plow edge & the left front tire to do so. The bridge was 12 feet wide. I thought that was bad enough, the 10 wheeled Oil Tanker had to back-in over the bridge to unload the fuel!! There was no place there to turn around....

I am in the, more weight the better, camp. All four oversized tires that are all fluid filled. In fluid alone I have over 250 lb pushing down. Steel weights on the outside in the back. 2 link ice chains for rear traction.

Very cool video. But I'm going to take a hard pass on any sort of snow removal on the steep side of a mountain. That job does in fact exist to some extent, not far from me. Jackson and Bartlett NH along with some surrounding towns have some extremely aggressive roads for short distances.

Lol, At first, I thought "Wonky" was the name of his tractor.

This is me, with the skills, facilities, and tooling that I have--others will certainly have other approaches! Ideally, one would remove the rock shaft and then the residual bushing support for at least the left bushing and, based on close inspection, maybe the right side as well. Next weld in new ¼” plates on the inside of the hoodstand drilled to the rock shaft bushing diameter. Lastly re-assemble, replacing the bushings if indicated. HOWEVER, given the state of the rest of that tractor, I’d put at least a $1 bet the rock shaft components are solidly “nature welded” together. In that case, given how inaccessible the rock shaft is, the only way to disassemble it might be with a cutting torch. So, Plan B. Loosen the clips centering the rock shaft but do not try to remove the shaft. Instead, with whatever access you can manage, carefully cut/grind away the debris of the left side bushing support. While supporting the rockshaft in its correct position, weld two separate plates to the inside of the hood stand, each having a half-circle sized for the bushing. Put one plate below and one plate above with the joint positioned slightly higher towards the rear and lower toward the front. A variant on Plan B, is to buy a weldable two-piece shaft collar instead of making steel plates. Size it to just snugly clamp the end of the bushing protruding through the side of the hood stand and weld it to the hoodstand. A further option includes adding a split bushing around the rockshaft and inside the collar.

It is possible your test strokes are longer than what the lobe on the engine shaft provides. I’ve not experienced excess wear on the pump lobe or pump lever. Also possible is that the fuel line was allowing air to be sucked in at a not quite tight connection. A lot depends on the location of the tank. Above the carb, petcock open, no leaks? Almost no time at all. Tank below the carb and a long hose run? Seven or eight seconds wouldn’t surprise me but it varies a lot based on a bunch of factors. The “lag” is why a lot of members have gone to electric pumps or squeeze priming bulbs.

Havent posted in a very long time, came across a automotive lift scissor type with 4 arms and pads that swiveled out to catch the frame and the vehicle, got it for $400. It had a hydraulic power unit and 1 cylinder to lift the scizzor mechanism. probally 5,000 lift capacity no tags or sinage on it. Folded down it was only about 6" high and lifted to about 45" . This thing is old 50' maybe 60's. Went to the scrap yard and found a 1/4" X 40" X8' piece of diamond plate wrapped with 1" square tube. $50. That was the top, I went up 15" on the narrow end, notched the tube and bent it down for the ramp, welded it back up. I think that lift was for tire shop's or maybe brake work. When done and started using it it was hard to move it so I got 4 heavy swivel casters drilled 4 holes in the corners of the flat part, dropped it down and rolled the top off. The lift frame had 2 large steel rollers on one end and a heavy tang with a 1" hole in it, it came with a heavy bar with a hook and roller, you put the hook in the hole pushed the bar down and roll the lift around. Got some pictures somewhere, just got to get smart enough to post them.

This is very interesting. I'll look up what ours is. Not sure if or how it varies by region. Those times were from Washington DC. Of course it was an AI generated report so who knows. Being much further north and not impacted by the quantity of hot air being expelled in our nation's capital your weather may not be the same; and your gas mileage may vary.

Because your watching stupid videos instead of insulting the guys here. Bearing collar or wood wedges behind the pulley hub. Put the screwdrivers down and slowly step away. The pulley and woodruff MUST come off first. Don't worry about mangling the woodruff ... common but guard the nut like it is your wedding ring. It puts the rear end back on until the front end is off. Too much wobble can mar the armature. SG rookies like you make idiots like me wonder why I never did that SG instructional.

Looks like a J.C. Whitney universal bumper add on hitch so you can tow a 10,000lb. trailer with 67 Dodge Dart!