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Maybe not. Looked out in the back yard last night to see a black bear working on the bird feeders. Opened the door and asked him to leave ... he wandered off but was back 10 minutes later.. Today I went out to find the feeders and see where he had been. We are having some work done and the contractor has a dumpster and a porta-potty. set up. Bear tracks went right up to the door of the porta-potty

The first notes are on papyrus ... that's an indication of how long @ebinmaine's been "working " on it... Trail cam of Eric ordering the first parts list...

The only tractor that was designed and built in Texas is this Jacques Mighty Mite model MM and the subsequent model 10. They were built between 1946-49 in Denison Tx. I believe @oldiron has a model Jaques model 10. I've had one of these on my someday list for quite a while. A special thanks to @Chrishar for finding and helping me haul it to the farm for short term storage. Since it was built in Texas, it's kind of on the level of a Pond RS83 to me. I think it is roughly the size of a Pond, and some what similar in design. They don't have the following that a Pond has, so thankfully they are not in that price range. I've read somewhere between 35500 to 5000 were built under a couple of different names/owners The angled bracket on the rear hitch was a plow mounting bracket. The front wheels are a 2 piece split rim, the same as on a David Bradley 2 wheel tractor or an early Sears/David Bradley The front axle has Jaques Mighty Mite cast into it. The original engine would have been a Briggs 23 or some later ones had twin cylinder Wisconsin's. Someone did a nice job of retrofitting an electric start Kohler K301 into it some wherein the past. The clutch linkage is stuck, but looks complete. I need to learn if this is the original "Twin-Disc" clutch o that was done when the Kohler was installed. It has the original foot and hand clutch, but the hand clutch handle has been modified I need to figure out was transmission this is. it is a 3 speed with reverse and a top access gearbox. The rear axle is a shortened Ford Model T "Banjo" axle. The rear axle has drop boxes on it made by Jaques, then looks like it uses the Ford Brakes and Hubs. Lots to do to get it working.

Upper steering shaft ready for pre-install. I will slide on an O ring to prevent washers and bushing from sliding down too far on initial setup. Upper steering shaft shim washers ready to be slid on. Upper steering shaft O ring, shim washers, and bushing slid on. Upper steering shaft installed into steering support block. Console ready to be installed. Console temporarily installed. Cotter pin just slid into hole with just enough shim washers to take up any free play. Console removed and stackup of shim washers above cotter cotter pin thickness measured to find a proper thickness washer. Upper steering shaft greased on all contact areas. Lower steering shaft fan gear greased. Lower steering shaft set perfectly level. Upper steering shaft installed with a 1/4" pin punch in steering wheel wheel roll pin hole and aligned so punch sits level while ensuring lower steering shaft stays level. This ensures proper gear mesh so steering wheel will be straight. Upper steering shaft cotter pin installed and one leg bent to hold it in position. Washers (of thickness determined earlier) and bushing slid on. Console placed back on ensuring bushing is properly seated and the Left side bolt screwed in finger tight. Right side front bolt installed finger tight. This will be how this bolt will stay for now as it has ground wires and a clip to go under it as well at a later date. PTO stop ready to be installed. This gets bolted in to the Right side rear of console. PTO stop installed. Rear console bolts both tightened. Console is now installed. Overview as of today.

Yesterday we got some snow. Saturday I put the blade on the c-145 since my C-120 that is supposed to have a plow on it is in pieces. Yesterday morning put a new scraper blade from a public works snowplow on. That should last awhile! Then it was time to shine. Love plowing fluffy snow! And today did a bit more cleanup. IMG_1281.mov

December sixteenth is the day to celebrate National Chocolate Covered Anything Day. Indulge in a chocolate fountain or fondue to dunk any treats you fancy or drizzle your favorite desserts in delicious sauce and syrup. National Chocolate Covered Everything Day is here to answer these questions and encourage the celebration of this delectable dessert accessory!

The only record keeping that I do is an inventory. I have a USB stick that is on a key chain, this has pictures, serial numbers, & approximate value of each tractor that I own. Should I kick the bucket, my wife or son will at least have some idea of what they need to get rid of. For maintenance, I put an hour meter on every tractor that I have. Every 25hrs they get an oil change and a good looking over. 100hrs includes a change of transmission fluid & filter if applicable.

Hey guys, Well, greetings from way out here on the West Coast in California. Not too many members out here. I don’t think, seems like there weren’t a ton of our tractors here although mine is an original one owner Tractor before me who purchased it in Escondido California. (I’ve owned it for a decade). I have all of the records of everything, including the original bill of sale. It’s wonderful. Anyhow, today was day-one of disassembly, and as this has been a working Tractor for several years now, everything came apart beautifully. No frozen nuts. It has basically been effortless. So, all of my experience is with the restoration I did on CASE 444 tractor, But the nice thing is the similarities between the two for many things. I plan on upgrading the steering arms using Heim joints instead of the ball and socket joints… It was a huge improvement on my CASE. I’m sure I’ll have some questions going down the road, but the beautiful thing is I am finding almost zero corrosion, except the panel area inside… is that aluminum or magnesium? It’s got some powdery corrosion on it. Best to you all, Jason

I assume you didn't open the door...

I gave up on using any kind of easy to use pins there, now I use only cotter pins and bend them both ways. I replace them as needed.

As a fellow Bear I can assure we DO 💩 in the woods. And porta potties. Never under a bird feeder though.

Looks like I got here before him For ag tires there really isn’t many you can get for 24/12/12. But the new thing for tires all over pulling clubs are called Cheng Shin. They are cheap and man these tires have been great. We’ve been using them I think 3 seasons now. And the good part is they don’t take as much power as say the firestones do. https://www.millertire.com/23x10-50-12-cheng-shin-tractor-lug-4-ply-tire/

Well I'm going have to start doing sumin I changed the oil twice in one week on one (trans and motor) and still havnt made it to the right machine that needs it. Me thinks I'm going to start journal and start writing things down about each machine, initial cost, seals replaced, problems fixed, problems that need fixin, maintenance schedule, etc. etc. I never thought about doing this in my younger years. Dat gum I hadn't even thought about the different pieces of equipment. Might even help if/when you go to sell/trade sumin. I'm not complaining, I'm blessed to have this "problem". Now what was I going to do, Oh yeah buy more oil.

I have created several Xcel spreadsheets so it is easy to easily look up P/Ns rather than comb thru manuals.

Personally I would tap the holes but another way is to buy a pair of self tapping screws.

The wisdom shared on this site is astounding...

Just now as the sun sets

Land trac ... lawn trac... high run ... all the same tread design. Problem is ain't a one gonna be the same size. When I ordered those on your 1257 I had no idea how wide they were. Or how they would inflate on a rim. Strait sidewall, bulged, flat tread... you just don't know. If I remember right those were 80 a tire and when they showed up I go holy crap. Hard to believe same size. Well the stocks may only be 23-8.5s ...ags 10.5 but still.

Those are the same just a different branding. They are sold under upmteen different names. Those would make great pulling tires for just for fun. I got nothing but good remarks in the plow field with those. I ran out of belt grab way before traction.

1985 312-8 would have a K301 with points and condenser. Have another condenser you could try? Have you checked the valve clearances? They do not need it often but if never done a 1985 model is due. Have had success adding a shot of Marvel Mystery oil to the fuel or 2-stroke oil if you have it. Lubricates the valve stems in case they are lazy at closing. Do one thing at a time so you know what the fix is.

26-12-12 Firestones would be the best pick in my opinion. Should only have to jack the fenders up about 1/2" to get enough clearance. At least that is all I had to do with my C101/1257/etc.

Must be a real long list for Colossus.

Rule #1 of wrenching: Assume any work that you did not do yourself was done wrong. Rule #2 of wrenching: If problem persists assume any work you did do yourself was done wrong. Rule # 3 of wrenching: When all else fails, read the instructions.

on running the coil wire behind the bearing plate Squirrely ... I hate it when it just lays on top the motor. Search box upper right FL . Type in 856 and use the drop down box to check mark files. Hit the search button and it will come up with any and all files pertaining to a 856 including Kohler OM, IPL and service manuals. There ya go Dan's pic is excellent. The service manual will tell you how to adjust the arm the cable is clamped to to adjust engine speeds.

No, the contractor likely still had a firm hold of the door--probably a one-holer

So much wrong. Take picture that shows the governor arm and the disc at its base... that is were the cable goes not the carb.

Nothing left to do on either 3 of mine! I need another!

wow, I didn't see that 8 ball yet. So much to look at at figure out, especially the clutch and rear brake linkage and assemblies. For now I want to get it running. I'll start out keeping it original. If I end up with a lot of disassemble for repairs it might end up going the restoration route.

I write hours and date on oil filters if equipped. Same on the air filter ring. Grease at the start of the year, in the middle of summer and in the fall. The older Kohlers stuff gets a fall service, I really don't run those very much. Take some pics and catalog bigger jobs. No formal records. Maybe some could switch to cubs and save the record keeping!

I was plowing the other day with the FEL and noticeg the plow swivel bolt is loose intentionally. It allowed the blade to ride the ground contour and self level as compared to the frame. The blade at the ends could tip about 2 inches. Just something to think about.

Yup. I generally do the spring - fall oil changes, when I do the implement & tire swap. Grease the moving parts. While the rears are off, check the grub screws on the hubs. Pull the Unidrive dipstick to verify fluid condition & level. AND - check the Kohler oil level before each use.... Seems to work for a couple of decades so far.

Do labels under the hood and on all the filters count? If so, then yeah most definitely I do.

@953 nut @SylvanLakeWH Yyyeeeaaahhh. You're both not wrong...

Definitely. Part of my being neurodiverse is a terrible short term memory. I use a couple phone apps to help with many things. Calendar 📅 Notes 📝 I keep a list of "To-do" for every tractor (and many other tasks).

3 day snow event here finally over. Went to my mom's today to clean up driveway after her plow guy. Used dad's Troy Bilt GTX 20 w/Bervac. He bought it new in the 90s back when Troy Bilt was owned by Garden Way. Don't remember exactly what he paid but I know it was alot for tractor, 48" mower deck, 2stage Bervac, & plow blade. Really nice tractor. 20hp Vanguard, hi/lo rear axle, hydro, power steering, cruise, electric pto w/all implements shaft driven. Wish he would have got the available front loader. So at least this winter I get to use a one, just not mine yet ☹️ Sorry @Ed Kennell its not your old Bervac..... 20251215_132155.mp4

The opposite actually. Cold air is denser so more can get in. Cold fuel doesn't atomize (spray) as well either. Sort of a double negative. More air and less effective fuel spray means you're likely running lean. Not the best for an engine.... Try turning the adjustment screw(s) Just a tad... out. Experiment and report back.

Made one of my faves that I learned to like while in Austria. My pork schnitzel with sour cream gravy.

Got some shop time today. Popped a couple 520H tie rods off for a fellow Redsquare member. Trina got the Military Tribute Tractor "Millie" in for a couple belts. The S/G belt was so worn the unit was barely charging. The drive belt was also well worn. We did some investigating here and found that the universal transmission pulley was too wide and also too deep. 68" belt is far too short. 70" too long... Unfortunately the middle option of 69" belt was also about two hairs too long. This tractor has a 6 speed that had no pulley with it. I believe the best course would be to get a bushing from 3/4" down to 5/8" so she can use the original 3 speed pulley. We do need to figure out how to find that bushing/ adapter. @Achto @kpinnc or others? We also found the belt guard is bent and/or has a broken section near the engine. Trina filed that down.

As posted in my restore thread, I put down the last of the colour for my bonnet with the black detail. Clear coating later this week. Now that its starting to warm up down here, painting is getting easier.

Only got a dusting in Tennessee

Mine got a work out this morning and they performed great. I got nearly 4 hours of seat time clearing 4 inches of wet snow from 7 driveways and mail boxes.

First mistake... never go by what a PO has done. Get pictures from guys here on how it's done correctly. Second mistake ... read the Kohler manual. If you do not have one one will be provided. It's all in there with pictures on how it's done including adjusting the governor.

I printed these off from a manual and just keep them on a clip board. Separate one for each tractor. Problem is I forget or don't keep them up the way one should. Not only that most of the time I can't read my own chicken scratching.

Interesting observation, Joe. @ebinmaine gifted me a very tired 1963 snow blade surplus to his needs (Thanks again, EB). On this style of blade the quadrant bracket “sandwiches” the end of the frame with wide flanges to aid rotational stability (on newer blades, the frame sandwiches the quadrant). While replacing missing parts and making repairs I discovered the shoulder-style pivot bolt had been replaced with a fully threaded bolt which had worn through the threads and wallowed out where it fit in the quadrant and the frame. The slop was a lot more than two inches! This year, with a friends help, I reinforced the flanges, rebushed the frame and quadrant pivot points, and have a Grade 5 shoulder bolt. After two sessions of plowing with the new setup I see that there is about an inch of free rotation at the blade end from play in the pivot, but then the frame itself twists a bit to add another inch or so. Rotated positions now hold precisely.

But back on topic - yes, I keep a "to do" list for each tractor that serves as the "done" list after cross outs...

11 degrees on the way to work, 25 on the way home, snow in between. I'll say today is for the birds. Penguins to be specific.

So impressive. Build and testing both! I want one!

Put custom decal from @Vinylguy on this morning. I wanted a decal that matched the seat latch decal and think he done a great job.

Added a lift assist spring for snowblower on the 702. Made it definitely easier to raise up. With my lower back issues I need any help I can.