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The only tractor that was designed and built in Texas is this Jacques Mighty Mite model MM and the subsequent model 10. They were built between 1946-49 in Denison Tx. I believe @oldiron has a model Jaques model 10. I've had one of these on my someday list for quite a while. A special thanks to @Chrishar for finding and helping me haul it to the farm for short term storage. Since it was built in Texas, it's kind of on the level of a Pond RS83 to me. I think it is roughly the size of a Pond, and some what similar in design. They don't have the following that a Pond has, so thankfully they are not in that price range. I've read somewhere between 35500 to 5000 were built under a couple of different names/owners The angled bracket on the rear hitch was a plow mounting bracket. The front wheels are a 2 piece split rim, the same as on a David Bradley 2 wheel tractor or an early Sears/David Bradley The front axle has Jaques Mighty Mite cast into it. The original engine would have been a Briggs 23 or some later ones had twin cylinder Wisconsin's. Someone did a nice job of retrofitting an electric start Kohler K301 into it some wherein the past. The clutch linkage is stuck, but looks complete. I need to learn if this is the original "Twin-Disc" clutch o that was done when the Kohler was installed. It has the original foot and hand clutch, but the hand clutch handle has been modified I need to figure out was transmission this is. it is a 3 speed with reverse and a top access gearbox. The rear axle is a shortened Ford Model T "Banjo" axle. The rear axle has drop boxes on it made by Jaques, then looks like it uses the Ford Brakes and Hubs. Lots to do to get it working.

Been working on my 520H this fall installing motors for chute rotation & deflection. Had two 5" wet snowfalls this so far this year. Gave me a chance to work the bugs out of system. Backkground: Had a few wheel horse tractors over the last 40 years. The last one was a 88 520h I built up for snow. Added motor for chute rotation, but had no way to automatically stop rotation when at end of gear teeth. Posted on here in 2020 for help, but sold tractor because we bought a house in florida for the winter. Sold house this year and back in Michigan full time Started buying tractor, cab, snowthrower this summer to be set for winter. looked back at old posts on this forum and found schematic for limit switches for chute motor (Can't find name of person who posted it} Have everything tested working now. Most of the electrical parts were purchased on Amazon or what I had on hand The switch panel is too large & gets in the way when steering and F/R lever, another job for next summer D03F27C8858A20251130120906_album_local_cache.MP4

Last November, I made a purchase that solved a few problems for me. My beloved 522xi (converted to a 525exi) was starting to really show its age and needed a complete overhaul. All the linkages were loose and worn for steering, motion control and implements, and it was starting to wear ruts into my hill where I would have to turn and spin the tires. I am in a stage of life (3 young kids, and my job is an hour away) where I don't have enough time to do major projects like that (even though I want to!) and I don't have the storage space for a spare (I already have 2 WH's at my dad's house that I intend to keep!). I just needed a reliable worker. I found a KILLER deal on a tractor and I bit the bullet. Drove from Cincy all the way to East Peoria, IL for it. It came with the 14 bu power flow bagger, 54" plow, and 54" mower deck and only had 180 hours on it. The extra track width alone allows me to side-cut my hill with zero tipping issues (had wheel weights on the WH just to make it manageable). The AWD/AWS makes it very sure footed and no more turf tearing. The only issues I have are a) complexity, I really like the WH simplicity and it felt like the frame was beefier, b) parts are expensive, but at least they are available and I don't have to hoard an entire spare everything in my garage, c) low range on the WH 522xi was a beast and this thing really needs a low range. Here it is pulling out the rented aerator that blew a drive belt and took me on a ride down the hill:

Terrible event in Sydney Australia at a hannuka celebration. No justification at all for such barbarity. Love and light to everyone. Mick

Made one of my faves that I learned to like while in Austria. My pork schnitzel with sour cream gravy.

Long time owner, deciding to get involved in the world of wheel horse. Here's to everyone having a safe winter season!

December fifteenth is the first day of the celebration of Hanukkah which began at sundown yesterday, “The festival of lights” — a time for family, delicious eats, and stories that remind of hope's enduring glow in the darkest times. While a great deal of Jewish history can actually be found in the Bible, Hanukkah is one of those festivals that has not been mentioned in the canonized text. The most thorough documentation that recounts the events of the holiday can be found in books called 1 Maccabees and 2 Maccabees. While the temple oil used to light the menorah should only have been enough for one day, it lasted for eight days and this was celebrated as a miracle. This thread continues in today’s observance of Hanukkah, in the eight-day celebration and the lighting of the candles.

The first notes are on papyrus ... that's an indication of how long @ebinmaine's been "working " on it... Trail cam of Eric ordering the first parts list...

Must be a real long list for Colossus.

Reading this brings back memories. My first tax paying job during my high school summers was with Southampton Township where I lived. We used scythes to mow the berms of the township roads during the summer. During the 1958 March blizzard many of the township roads were closed by deep drifts on the hollows that were too deep to plow. The traffic was routed around the drifts through the fields that had been blown clear. The two weeks that our school was closed and on weekends after, myself and about six other township employees were paid $0.67/ hour to remove the 6-12' snow drifts.... with shovels.

I've got about as slow as EB, but I did get the top for the weight box cut out and painted. Now i just have to attach it.

The opposite actually. Cold air is denser so more can get in. Cold fuel doesn't atomize (spray) as well either. Sort of a double negative. More air and less effective fuel spray means you're likely running lean. Not the best for an engine.... Try turning the adjustment screw(s) Just a tad... out. Experiment and report back.

You have some of the most interesting experiences, Ed. Been a looong time since I’ve swung a scythe--and never as a job! My son has acquired a couple of modern ones from companies trying to bring them back. He really enjoys using them and next summer I’ll get to try them out at the camp. The Mad River Glen ski collective in Vermont hires workers in the late summer every year to scythe the vegetation that’s grown up on a couple of its steepest slopes. They tried power mowers at one point but went back to scythes. I think the pay is a bit better these days!

If it was me and I didn't want to tap holes I would just not worry about them . You can always go back and tap them at a later date. They should be easy to tap (soft metal), but I would use a "bottom" tap that are designed to tap blind holes.

Yesterday we got some snow. Saturday I put the blade on the c-145 since my C-120 that is supposed to have a plow on it is in pieces. Yesterday morning put a new scraper blade from a public works snowplow on. That should last awhile! Then it was time to shine. Love plowing fluffy snow! And today did a bit more cleanup. IMG_1281.mov

Can you sell it locally for more than you paid for it & buy a nice WH instead??

Gotta like the rims & tires on it.

The original 39 year old tires had very little wear, but were not holding air so I fix them. Might be a little over kill but they hold air now..

Personally, I just say I'm buying parts - technically true.

I have an 89 310-8 awaiting a restore, c-141 8 speed, a no name 14 8 and a charger 12 in addition to the 93 310-8 with the blower. And not a wheel horse, but I also have a 2018 toro time cutter 60 inch with the myride suspension.

I have been informed that I could run 26's but was not wanting to get into seat/fender clearance issues. I think I've got plenty of room everywhere else. I have a set of 23-10.5's land tracs' on the 1257, maybe under different brand name and they do seem to work well for everyday chores but got to thinking the way the middle of tire tread is made might not make the best pulling tire IDK? I wish I knew if the air locs ran true to size I notice they are 6 ply and may hook up better. I thought I had seen where someone had tried the air loc in another thread but I be dang if I can find it now.

@953 nut @SylvanLakeWH Yyyeeeaaahhh. You're both not wrong...

Kind of an odd ball size there. I did find a few options but don't know if they run true to size. https://www.millertire.com/24x12-00-12-air-loc-super-lug-6-ply/ These have more of the 23 degree angle like the Firestones but the lugs are kind of narrow. https://www.giga-tires.com/24-12.00-12/kenda-tires/k472/tirecode/10472128AB1 I like the squareness of the tread on the OTR's https://lawnmowertirestore.com/24x12-00-12-4-ply-lawn-trac-1.html I would look for a harder tire with more ply's this helps keep the lugs from folding over under load. The club that I pull with allows 26-12-12, even actual pulling tires in the stock class. They do require us to drop hitch height by 1" if we run pulling tires instead of AGs. I'm running Firestone 26-12-12 that I have cut the tread on.

Our camp tractor (518-H++) goes weeks without use. Last spring I decided to try a squeeze bulb like those on outboard motor fuel tanks. After the next two “settin” spells, one squeeze filled the filter and a then did a second squeeze for good measure. Starts were as if it had been shut down an hour ago. So far so good.

Pretty simple actually. The holes are "as cast" in the bosses and should be the tap drill size for those 2 screws. Identify the screw size & thread pitch and tap the holes deep enough with the proper sharp tap... it may be necessary to drill them with the tap drill first. Not being tapped tells me that the new carb MAY not be the correct one for an 854 - the largest carb bore on the small block K series Kohlers, It may have been meant for a 5, 6, or 7 HP motor - as those did not have that arm on the side opposite the choke lever...

I guess you know your 56 year old sunstrand hydro is still working okay and that you have enough weight and chains when you drag down and almost stall a healthy Magnum 16 pushing back drifted and previously piled snow....The 56" blade gives the whole unit a work out.

Lift bar and chain ready to assemble. Manual calls for a 5/16" bolt but lift arm is already drilled to accept a 3/8" bolt. I just had to tap a taper punch into chain where bolt passes through to open it up slightly to fit the 3/8" bolt. This will give a much more solid connection between bar and chain. Lift bar and chain assembled. Lift bar assembly ready to be installed. Lift bar greased at pivot points then bushing slid on. Lift bar installed by first inserting left side of bar (with the bushing) into hole in left side of frame then aligning right side of bar with hole in right side of frame. Push bar to the right as far as possible then while holding bar in this position, slide the bushing into the frame on the left side until it is filly seated. Install the E clip to hold everything in position. Lift bar is now installed. Lift chain installed into bellcrank then washer and nyloc nut installed. Nut screwed on a couple of turns but it's final adjustment is done after a deck is installed. Lift bar washer and clip installed.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mending+plate&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=mending+plate+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQABiABDIHCAIQABiABDIHCAMQABiABDIHCAQQABiABDIHCAUQABiABDIHCAYQABiABDIHCAcQABiABDIHCAgQABiABDIHCAkQABiABNIBCDU0NjNqMGo3qAIAsAIA often suggest a linkage lift assist , the garage door version of this , is very useful , cut off what you need , just an idea , pete found that 4" or 6" channel steel makes for an excellent weight mount support , also add a heavy vibration pad to the forward end of mounting just under transaxle eliminates movement absorbs heavy shock , that channel steel will stand up to just about anything , years in use , just like first installed , just an idea , pete

PTO safety switch ready to bolt to bracket. I had to re-use the old 4-40 nyloc nuts because I had no new ones. PTO safety switch bolted to bracket. PTO safety switch assembly ready to be installed. PTO safety switch assembly installed. Bolt tightened but not torqued.

Many Magnums...but not all came with a Walbro fixed main jet car. (no high speed adjustment) and a bit of dirt tin that fixed jet will cause issues...What kind of carb do you have/

Here is a thread with some information on changing out the #111 O rings in the control valve. Most of my hydraulic oil leaks have came from these O rings going bad.

I had this one with arm rests and a seat for my 953,(hopefully going on soon) made by Matt. They are worth every penny he wants for them in my opinion. Considering there is no one around me that will even attempt one. I use the one with arm rests on my 416h that I work often. They hold up great and comfortable too

Got some shop time today. Popped a couple 520H tie rods off for a fellow Redsquare member. Trina got the Military Tribute Tractor "Millie" in for a couple belts. The S/G belt was so worn the unit was barely charging. The drive belt was also well worn. We did some investigating here and found that the universal transmission pulley was too wide and also too deep. 68" belt is far too short. 70" too long... Unfortunately the middle option of 69" belt was also about two hairs too long. This tractor has a 6 speed that had no pulley with it. I believe the best course would be to get a bushing from 3/4" down to 5/8" so she can use the original 3 speed pulley. We do need to figure out how to find that bushing/ adapter. @Achto @kpinnc or others? We also found the belt guard is bent and/or has a broken section near the engine. Trina filed that down.

Agreed. I've only used mine for a couple short trips out in the rough terrain and they do certainly grip well.

Got one myself, out in the shed. One day I will sharpen it and try it out.

During a week long Christmastime power outage, I ran a generator the entire time except for fuel and oil stops. Carburetor icing was a real issue since a generator might run at the same throttle opening for some time and then when more power is called for the throttle plate is froze fast. My solution was to build a cardboard house to keep the heat in. I believe that ethanol laced fuel did stop nearly all of the ice in the fuel lines problems, but my example with the generator was not within the fuel touched parts.

Good memory, LOL. I seem to recall that was popular for a time in “middle” Michigan and “high” Maine.

You can call me anything you want, just don't call me late for dinner...! Man that looks good!!! One of my favorites!

Fueling and using that often, ice in the fuel system is probably not your issue. We have had members report carb icing in very cold but humid weather. It’d be visible as frost on the outside of the carb and the symptoms would be similar as it affects both air and fuel mixing in the carb throat.

Following for curiosity... I don't pull in competition. Remember that many classes have strict rules on type and/or size of various tractor parts. Verify AG tires are allowed.

Thanks @ebinmaine! That makes sense to me. I bet my carb is set "perfectly" for warm weather but the cold is throwing it slightly off. As you said, double negative. I'm sure I can richen the main jet a bit and it'll still run well in summer too. I won't have time to tinker until Fri but will report back then! Thanks!

They are already laying claim to them! I will have enough to plow the whole dang neighborhood when it snows. Honestly, I could sell it for more than double what I paid and buy 5 WH's, but the WH just isn't as confident on those side-hills! Also, I don't have to store spare parts, so for now I'm happy to pay the premium to get one off the shelf. We will see if I feel the same in a few years! It does feel like a billy goat! Zero concern at any angle on the hill. They are quite proud of their stuff, most of them are way pricey. I did look at Kubota and several others on marketplace as one does, and this one just popped up. An older fella looking to downsize and willing to make a deal for a real person who called him on the phone as he had had so many scam attempts. The Xi machines are tough. I loaded mine up with weight and it plowed like a freight train. The frame seemed beefier than this one does. I still cant believe WH never had a locking diff. It would have been a game changer.

Got the twists removed today (took about 3 minutes for each chain). Mounted on tires. Just waiting on windshield washer fluid from Tractor Supply to fill tires & mount. This is a 2nd set of tires and only used in winter Removed valve core from tires, mounter chains as tight as possible, refilled air in tires. Chains are tight on tires. Tires have cracks in sidewalls but don't leak air. Hope they last thru winter & will install tubes next summer

No no no! You never "purchase" another one, they just reproduced on thier own! Or- you just inherited a stray and just had to give it shelter!

Yes I just did, home depot sells them 8 inches long just like the OEM tube length is. Works perfect.

Sunday December 14, 2025 after the big and cold snowstorm! 6 inches of snow and about ten degrees this am. I cleaned off my driveway and my neighbors! The 1974 Wheel Horse 8 hp B-80 worked great! When i went to my neighbors to plow the angle rod push pin fell out of the rod! Went back to the garage to retrieve another! Back in business. I really like the snowplow i have. Only 42 inches wide but years ago i put a five hole sector section in the plow for more flexibility on the angles. I can angle my plow five ways!

he didn’t solve it, I did…. the rear ratio is 12:28 The front was 8.6:1. but because the front tyres are smaller that makes the interaxle ratio 0.89:1 so I made that using a 20/23 sprocket ratio. This is our third 4x4 wheel horse, so it’s getting easier each time.

I found a 90 degree stainless fitting that worked. I repaired the broken stud on the battery box and now need to clean the frame before reinstalling it. Next is to install the new replacement fuel bowl and the battery. then I should be ready to try starting it up again. Who knows, that might happen yet today

I got bored this afternoon so I decided to see just how frozen the exhaust nipple was. It had soaked in Kroil for a few hours so I smacked the open end a few times with a large hammer. Next using a 24" pipe wrench I tried tightening it some. I don't think it moved but couldn't be sure. Using a 24" wrench I tried to loosen it. After a bit of leaning on the wrench it actually gave in. I reversed the process and tightened it again and then when I tried to loosen it again it turned about an 1/8 of a turn. From there it was just coming out. The nipple did deform when it first started to loosen but that just made it easier for the pipe wrench to get a grip on it. Exhaust parts are on order so now I wait....

Got a few minutes to finish mine up today so far as welding. Made a test fit just for giggles. This thing is hard to get situated. I thought I had something crooked until I saw the right side of the nose hitch is bent. Handles or not, the floor jack is a must. It weighs just over 80lbs. Now to figure out how to paint this thing!