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Now in stock : 2" Receiver Hitches! Completely manufactured and finished in house. Fits both manual and hydro transmissions and also allows for the use of the axle/plow bracket. Will require the removal and re-installation of your hitch pin. As pictured with all of the hardware needed for installation $135.00 plus shipping / continental US only. Private message me here, or call / text during normal business hours. Do not email, and please DO NOT COMMENT HERE ON THIS POST.

Fasole means beans in Latten and I pass them all the time, sometimes even play a little tune first.

I don't really know how this happened. I was browsing ebay looking for mower spindles and ran across a listing for a B100. Unfortunately I made the mistake of looking at the pictures. It was only 70 miles from me so the next thing I know I'm clicking the Buy-It now button The listing said it was last running two years ago when it was brought in due to a transmission problem. All of the pictures were apparently from two years ago because it was obvious when I picked it up that it had been sitting just like the pictures showed only with lots of weeds all over it. Overall though it was still pretty decent looking. At the moment I have no clue what issue is with the drive system. I did pull the dipstick and the oil looks clean and fresh. The first task is to get it off the trailer and into my shop and then I'll see about getting the engine to run. I can't troubleshoot the drive system until it's running. I think I have another steep learning curve when it comes to the drive system. If nothing else, it should be interesting

December fourth is International Cheetah Day, nature's sprinters, these swift creatures embody grace and speed, painted in a golden coat, thriving in the wild savannah landscapes. They are mother nature’s precision, high-performance machine, designed to do one job and to do it with incredible skill and effectiveness. They can accelerate faster than a Ferrari, tearing up the ground from 0-75 mph in just 3 seconds, and they come with a self-grown paint-job that would make the fanciest of muscle cars blush with envy. That’s right, we’re talking about the Cheetah!

Somewhere on here is the algebraic equation, but essentially it is: + I x 2 Where: = Wheel Horse Tractor I = Implement x 2 = the minimum number of additional 's and Implements per . As you can see, it is like infinity - it never completes the circle...

Similar logic in finding a soulmate. Look for the one that won't wear the numbers off your credit card!!

We offer the best possible support...for your tractor addiction.

You check with Lincoln at A to Z in pennsylvania? I believe that to be a pretty good idea. Get a fairly thin Fender washer with the correct diameter hole. Use something close to the thickness of your existing sheet metal to make the weld easier. Place, cut, trim, form the fender washer and paste it in place.

Lots of third party sellers these days and most are legit. It is hard to tell what is what and should be using a barrier payment like PayPal. Plus one of the most common mistakes is getting sucked into those 10/15% off deals if you sign up for their ad's. Info is bought and sold like cheap shoes. Spam producers gravy.

Watched this 13yo lad operate this 10,000 lb. plow machine. He plowed from 8AM to 4PM with an hour lunch break(for the Belgians). He turned about 5 acres.

Why yes... yes I do... Nice grab!!!

Nice looking tractor and seems to be worthy of fixing. Might have a hood latch setup, I'll check tomorrow.

The brake pad for the PTO is not absolutely necessary, but the belt guard is. Mounting hardware for the right foot rest is a question mark shaped bracket, 5/16 carriage bolt, lock washer & nut. Same as C series - easy to find.

Had a great Time with my RJ pushing 4” of wet snow. Pushed with ease even without weights or chains, but ground isn’t frozen solid yet. Tried to represent those old ads of those Pipe Smokers.

Actually that was a Ford GT-40 but ya' gotta' love a little Cobra.

Not so much me as the wife, but she found this idea on the facie-page maybe:

I guess the missing elf is taking the photo?

Thanks Don for the thoughts on the bolt. It was handy (like your avatar) and I’m on a time constraint (I leave for Israel on Monday). This upcoming summer, I’ll get a custom rod made up. Today’s project was to clean up the hood and fender pan, then load the tractor, and head to Caleb’s house. This tractor is in such good shape (the seat notwithstanding) and so I felt that the chalky hood would shine up nicely… I wasn’t wrong…I only spent about 20 minutes on it for now but was excited with the results! Not bad for 37 year old paint! my little 5’x8’ trailer was “just big enough” to fit the tractor with blower attached. Caleb got off work about an hour early so that he could be the one to clear his own driveway for the first time! For those of you that have known him for a decade—can you believe that he is now a first time homeowner??? unfortunately the throttle cable is not functioning well. We are going to need to outsource a good used one or find something better. however, even at about half throttle, that Ber-Vac was handling the snow with ease and the torque of that Onan is impressive! For those of you that enjoyed reading the Iron Horse thread, this picture is also there. This is my dad in 1975 clearing the snow at his first house with his 1965 875. 50 years later, his grandson is clearing his driveway at his first house with a 1988 520HC! Wheel Horse—a generational experience for the Stertz household (like it is for many of you!) Job well done for the old machine! using the bagger frame to hold some weight (about 100 pounds) may not be the prettiest situation, however it works just fine. Caleb has a full rack of suitcase weights but no bracket. I suppose that next spring/summer we can fabricate something to hold those. At least, he can now clear any accumulative snow moving forward this winter…

I told Santa what I wanted for Christmas! Now I'm on his naughty list!

Nice looking rig! My first machine was a B100A. Bought it used and I ran the original engine until it was just tuckered out. Replaced with a new 12HP that I got from Northern at a decent price. It was like a timex, just kept on ticking. Only trans issue was a striped axle key and ended up changing an axle and hub. Seemed like it was a lot cheaper to fix then. Pullstart was here on his way home from a pick up and had one on his truck. I tried to talk him into selling it to me but no go. Might get another one someday or not, who knows. Spent a lot of seat time to plowing snow, dirt and cutting grass. It also survived two teenagers.

The overall condition of the tractor is very good. It doesn't have a rear hitch or a front mule drive, I'm guessing it was only used for plowing snow. It's missing a few odds and ends from when it was taken apart at the repair shop and then left to sit for a few years. I need the hood latch mechanism, the brake pad for the PTO pulley, hood ornament, and mounting hardware for the right floor board and belt guard. My current plan is to set up the B80 with the mower deck and the B100 with the dozer blade. I'm building a grader blade for the 656. So unless something changes I plan on keeping all three. The B80 and B100 will be left as is as far as finish goes. I plan on totally dismantling the 656 and making it look pretty again.

“Oops, he did it again”? If you’ve got the time and interest, that’ll be a very nice tractor. There are several members here with very deep knowledge of those Sunstrand hydros and know how to source repair parts. Some of those Sundstrands could also support an external hydraulic lift cylinder. Having the model number handy is important.

On my first meeting @wallfish, he lent me an RJ to tool around the Big Show. He emphatically cautioned me about its touchy clutch and willingness to wheelie. Having driven standard shift vehicles since before having a driver’s license, I paid heed and never had the front wheels more than a couple inches off the ground. Predictability and muscle memory are essential for clutching. We more mechanically-inclined and capable members do have to keep in mind that things mechanical and electrical can intimidate some of those who join the forum looking for an assist. They often need very specific and detailed answers along with reassurance.

I see you're familiar with driving a tractor in my back yard after Denali has... er... recycled his dinner... 4-5 times a day...

Tires came in today can't wait to put them on probably have to modify the fender some

Washer Boom Shaka Laka

What most of us do it throw it away and just use the clutch spring on the left side. I usually keep a spare ( 108035 clutch spring ) in my parts drawer. It attaches to the the clutch bracket and the hole in the brace web on the axle housing.

I used a piece of 1/16" thick angle iron cut to the shape of the broken piece. Cut out the damaged part and welded the new part in place. Oops, Bill types faster.

Or .... remove the entire top piece with the 2 holes, replace it with thin gage angle mounted from under the inside, Weld, bond, or screw it together.

I always tell people if you're looking and can't find someone, stop looking. Do the things you enjoy. Either they will show up or they won't and either way you will still be happy. I lucked out.

The rear wheels and tires will fit any traditional Wheel Horse that used 12 inch wheels. Just be aware that the rear tire size is what would be considered slightly smaller on the size scale. 308-8 and similar tractors used those tires. Looks like they will also need inner tubes due to the weather cracking. That will likely be another $40 or more. The front tires will work with any 8 inch front rims on a Wheel Horse, but those wheels will not. They do not have the right hubs for bearings. Personally, I would continue to look for new tires. These are already well torwards being worn out. If they were dirt cheap, they could work for a short while but not worth much at all.

With the transmission in neutral, parking brake set, key in the off position, and the points cleaned disconnect the condenser. Now turn the ignition to the start position and check for spark. If the coil and points are good you should have spark. If you now have spark the condenser was the culprit.

Might be better off raising it ...?

Somebody didn't get their coffee

Apples to apples straight swap would certainly be the easiest. Horsepower doesn't move snow. Torque does.

Ed, I just ran a tap thru it, you were 100% correct👊 thanks again

I agree... sadly.

This is - quite frankly - unacceptable. But I digress....

Here's some interesting numbers. The 16 HP single cylinder Kohler torque is 28.25. KT17 Kohler twin is LOWER at 25.8. That's fine most of time but WILL matter under serious loads. The Briggs... I couldn't find a direct comparison but this 16 HP opposed twin would obviously be close. It would be reasonable to assume that an 18 HP would be 2 to 2.5 lb-ft higher. So figure 27.8 to 28.3 for a Briggs 18. I'd still take a Kohler 16 single cylinder... rougher running for sure. And VERY strong for the given amount of cubic inches.

Like the high efficiency natural gas furnace we have in our Mo. property. I had not considered that. Back into research mode. Last night, I was reading about hybred heat pump water heaters. They operate like a refrigerator, except they take heat out of the room air and put it into the water. The hybred part means that it also has conventional heating elements to kick on when the heat pump part isn't keeping up. One of these would be a much easier install than LP fired tankless unit. I checked both elements in the sick water heater with a VOM. They checked OK. That pointed at the thermostats, so I picked up upper and lower replacement thermostats while I was out walking the dog today. I replaced the upper thermostat- only because it was easier than replacing the lower thermostat. It passed the smoke test, and the water has been at 125 degrees for several hours now. Looks like it is back up and running - for now.

Could be a really nice find! Not sure how familiar you are with but check the frame for cracks where the 4 bolts attach the uni-drive since it obviously has history pushing a dozer blade. Not a deal breaker but checking is a must.

I gotta admit, I'd be moving a lot slower without all the help and I'm already realizing it's going to be costly

Richard. You know that old phrase, don't sweat the small stuff. That's what all those little squiggly lines are for. They get caught up on all the small stuff so we don't have to.

Sounds like a good idea.

Our tankless LP water heater has two 4" PVC pipes going to and from it, one for combustion air, one for exhaust. You can place your hand on the exhaust PVC pipe and feel a slight bit of warmth. Our water from a deep well enters the unit at an average of 42* and leaves at 120* and will continue leaving the heat exchanger at 120* as long as there is water flowing. When the fow stops the burner shuts off and stays off until the next time you call for hot water, just that simple. We heat water, cook, heat the home and occasionally use the Gas log fireplace on about 300 to 400 gallons of LP per year depending on the winter. In the summer when we are just using the water heater and cooking with the gas usage the use is not noticeable. Our tank is a 500 gallon unit and I fill it at the end of the summer, unless we have a very harsh winter it will not be refilled until the following summer.

You should have battery voltage at the points when they are open. You should have 0 volts at the points when they are closed. If you do not get the 0 volts the points are not making contact when closed. Clean the contacts.

What do mean by having power "to the points" The points are on the ground side of the ignition circuit. Also, new points out of the box need to have the contact surfaces cleaned as they are coated from the factory so they don't oxidize in the package. Make sure those surfaces are clean.