Leaderboard

For those familiar with the Upper Peninsula of Michigan (Da UP), here's a required tool in every tool box:

Made a new lift link for the 1257 with the HY2 unit. Wanted something with a little adjustment to it. Still needs a little paint but works good with dozer blade.

Little 856 really likes its new to it wheels and tires.

Got the C-120 ready for the impending storm they're forecasting. Since it's Thanksgiving weekend, I'm thankful that the hydraulic lift I installed is working great! And I got the last of the leaves picked up, which frees up the C-141 in the unlikely event we get enough snow to hook up the snowblower.

Geeze, I never thought of using a hammer handle. I just use my fingers.

Well getting things prepped for the inevitable snow. Went out and put a battery in my bronco 14 with the 18hp Briggs vanguard v-twin in it. Started right up and ran exceptional after sitting for over a year. Last time i swapped the battery out I ground the positive terminal to the choke cable. It melted through the metal casing but the wire on the inside was still good. So being cheap as I am I redneck fixed it with a stick off the tree outside the garage and some electrical tape. Worked like a charm. The choke works like it should now. Temporary but probably long term fix 😂

I've gotten into the habit of adding a second ground cable to the starter housing. Simple, neat and effective. The fastening points already existed... why not?

It is the 29th of November it is 31 degrees and tomorrow they forecast snow. I am declaring victory over the leaves and quitting...Enough is enough' The GT-1848 Auto did a great job, much faster and easier than the C-175-8 I used to use...

Erics Snow pusher Cleats Snowplow

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Is to early for Christmas carol. Got this from @Pullstart at big show this year and haven’t got to mess with it much….Yet

I think I found my issue. When I traced the wires from the pto switch, I found the wire to the brake safety switch was worn and making contact with the lift cylinder. Replaced the wire and rerouted it so it wouldn’t happen again. Got too cold to try to fire it up, but I’ll verify tomorrow to make sure that solved the problem.

Got this Super Scooper plow all set up!

Maybe next time don't use bushes. Get me some measurements. Likely I've got one or 3.

So when are you dipping your 953's in gold?

It lives! It's too cold now for the grass to grow enough to mow, but I knocked down some tumbleweeds with it. 😁😁

Whatever's handy.

And that's the deluxe model tool kit. The basic kit is just a stick.

Hydraulic cylinder ready to be installed. This frame was missing the spacer so I am just stacking 3 thick washers instead. Tractor ready and waiting for the hydraulic cylinder. Spacer washers slid on and the shaft is greased where the cylinder will sit. Hydraulic cylinder slid onto shaft. Hydraulic cylinder pin greased and ready to be installed. Hydraulic cylinder pin installed. Overview as of today.

I run the battery negative wire directly to a S/G mounting bolt on the older ones and like @ebinmaine go to the starter mounting bolt on the newer ones. Cast iron is a fairly good conductor of electricity, but not as good as copper. Silver is a better conductor than copper and gold is a much better conductor than aluminum but then we have to consider cost, so copper it is.

Same here. I don't have any left thread taps so all my ends are RH. Assemble. Adjust. Reassemble and tighten up. Done.

Great farmer repair... duck tape, binder twine, baler wire, and a stick.

The hood and wheels were actually linen beige (Allis-Chalmers cream) but the photo's made it look more white. Inspiration? Found other pics out of the bright sun

This has been a really interesting post. Don't have much in the way of before/after pictures but one thing I observed is that almost every shop is packed full just like mine. I'd be at home in any of them.

If you have bearings on both ends this is a kit I have used with good results. A raw edge cogged belt is best for a S/G.

My 92 312-8 before… And after. My 78 C-141 before… And after. My 87 308-8 before… And after.

The Low Rider before after

Saved a two piece seat. Before After

spectacular projects ----- great photos -- awesome work -- don't mean to hyjack your before and after tractor thread but thought i would add some before and after of WH mower rehabs -- here is a 37 sd rescue rehab before and after of deck i found

I thought I'd have to overhaul the lift cylinder on my 522xi, but after cleaning off the muck that was hiding the leak, it turned out to be a slightly loose fitting, which was fine with me, since I have other projects that I'd rather work on than hydraulic cylinders. Considering the time I've spent rebuilding various hydraulic cylinders over the years, I'd seriously consider sending them out as well. However, stubborn as I am, I recently rebuilt the two steering cylinders on my old Case loader/backhoe myself. There were a couple of %&!*$#! moments, but they're both back together again and working perfectly. One of the cylinders after cleaning and painting, and ready to reassemble with some new internal parts and ball joints. Back together again: Back on Mr. Case:

@SylvanLakeWH I recently heard they are not going to make yard sticks any longer……………………they are going to continue to make them 36” 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Make sure the control shaft seal isn't leaking and clinging to the frame making it look like something else.

Not going to plow snow until it slows down - 5+ inches so far. So I decided to engage in the official act of fiddle-farting. When I pulled the lift cylinder off of "Johnny Cash" I decided to send it to @wheelhorseman and have it rebuilt. Today, I decided I might as well put it on my C-120 since the one I bush-fixed still leaves a few drips wherever I park it. May just send it in for rebuild also, since Lowell does such a nice job! While I was in the general vicinity, I remembered that I scored a "small" battery tray (wish I could find another) that needed a back-strap. So I did a little brazing and a shot of paint.

Skid shoes can be made from a piece of angle steel to be used in place of the steel wheels. WH changed to skid shoes on the blowers too

The HY2 and HY3 are identical except for the bellcrank. HY2 fits the PITA to remove shaft thru the tube design 1961 and 1962 tractors, HY3 has the bellcrank that is easy to remove with 2 bolts for the 1963 and 64, possibly more years than that. No Automatics those years...

I like the concept, and it’s terrific as long as it’s a direct pull. For some implements the link needs an offset for clearance.

I did use right hand Heim joints on my plow but liked the idea of adjusting lift without having to remove link from machine. I can cut LH threads on my lathe but if had no way of cutting left hand I would have used right hand hardware also. I had factory lift links but one was just a tad too short and another was just a tad too long hence the idea of an adjustable one . I can swap it back and forth between different machines also, but will probally build at least one more .

Do you have to use a LH drill bit to tap a LH thread?? No. It's been my experience that left-handed components (drills, taps, hardware) can either be more difficult to locate, or cost more than the common RH counterpart. Or both. One big reason I avoid them is my lathe has no provision to single point cut LH male threads. Tapping LH female threads is fine.

Wheelhorse diesel in action bcaaf875471e1b1d6182b1df34e3dd87.mp4

One on FBMP for $450.

I had a couple trees in a hedge row fall into the yard. After cutting up the big stuff and hauling it away there was a lot small chunks, twigs, and junk in the grass Would be way to much bending over/raking. Got the sweepster out and swept the stuff back into the hedge row. Worked pretty good and beat raking/picking up!

Looks like the big rigs they use to clear shopping mall parking lots...

Funny. Most of the bearings I've replaced were the non pulley end.

@ri702bill yeah that pic was still in adjustment stage , that is a 1/2-20 thread and is 2 1/2" long so guessing I ended up with 1 1/2" thread engagement. I got it adjusted now with jam nuts tight. Can pick wheels off of ground and still have plenty of ground clearance with plow in raised position. I made it with left hand thread on one end and right hand thread on other so all you have to do is break jam nuts loose and turn hex stock to make longer or shorter. @ebinmaine Mcmaster was the source for the clevis rod ends. They were 9/10$$'s a piece if I remember correctly. I did have to "massage" them a little to fit lift shaft and plow bracket

Eric - those are clevis rod ends. McMaster should have them. Beware of cheap cast versions.. Only slightly stronger than cream cheese..

The plates themselves are very strong. My concern is the attachment point where they bolt to the plow. I'm thinking about getting a corner brace from approximately 12" out from the plow and brace making a triangle 🔺️. Simple strap steel. The terrain float isn't likely to be a huge issue. Our driveway surface is pretty flat.

Got the Suburban in a deal when I purchased my 1st RJ (regretfully sold the RJ) Seller said it had to go also if took the RJ. It was really close to being scrap. Was able to put it together with spare parts so cost was minimal. It gets lotsa likes/attention at shows. Yet to do a complete restoration. Instead I just bought my already restored tractors from @Buckeyes. Definitely more cost effective.......

These two tractors were clearly 'parts only' machines. A 657 and a 500 Indy Special. After some mingling and hanky panky they emerged as this.

Did this in a month including replacing the hydro.