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Ive always hated the sloppy feel of the delta/indak ignition switches and keys, they feel sloppy, the keys bend if they get bumped. I ordered some old deere Tractor keys from like the 2020/2030 models and used a delta key and my saw chain grinder to trim around thr edges. Very thick, beefy, fits snug with 0 wobble or deflection. The "wing" makes it easier to grip and turn.

I do not have great pictures. Not my strong point

1989, 414-8

Definitely a great accomplishment using incredible technology. The greatest accomplishment is however the ability to have one's hands create what is in one's mind, most times creating something that perhaps no one else can imitate or duplicate.Something that leaves you in awe wondering how it is possible. A testament to the vision, skill, patience and determination of what an individual can accomplish. This is something that comes from one's heart and soul and rarely learned. You either have it or you don't. I still don't know what I did to deserve to look at this everyday but I am eternally grateful.

Sure glad you didn't break the block with that monster.

Finished 701 fuel pump rebuild and got it installed and back to running. Also found NOS muffler in parts shed that I had completely forgot about and decided to put on the 701. Had to break out bigger pipe wrench to remove old muffler. Still trying to decide if I should paint muffler black or leave silver.

Why not take it off the top where the surface condition is not important.

I recently acquired a use for a garden tractor, and have wanted a Wheel Horse since I was a kid. A little shopping and luck brought this old girl home. Rebuilt the fuel pump to get her running, and she runs great!! I'm sitting here now while the transmission drains so I can give her another 50 years of service 😎

National Knock Knock Joke Day is on October 31, every year, and it celebrates one of the most popular joke cycles. Perfectly suitable for all age groups, knock-knock jokes are told in many English-speaking countries. Knock-knock is a call-and-response joke that involves an interesting play with words. In 1929, a book called “The Games of Children: Their Origin and History” featured the earliest written form of the knock-knock joke. After the initial “Knock knock. Who’s there?” the joke-teller would reply, “Buff.” Then the audience would typically ask, “What says Buff?” And the final punchline would go, “Buff says Buff to all his men, and I say Buff to you again.” It was popular among children back then, and they enjoyed it very much. Knock Knock Woes there? Horse Horse who? Wheel Horse of course.

Hope you all have a safe and fun filled Halloween!

On the 5xi-series tractors, the plastic fuel tank (which I assume is some kind of polyethylene) is secured at its top and sides by several irregularly-shaped pieces of foam rubber sandwiched between the tank and the rear fender. The old foam rubber on my GT18 had deteriorated to what was essentially powder, which allowed the tank to flop around, and it's probably not in any better shape on my 522xi, which is the same vintage (2001). I haven't yet been able to find any OEM or specific aftermarket replacements for the foam pieces, but if anyone knows of any, let me know. In the meantime, I'm going to experiment a bit and try fabricating some replacements. I didn't know how thick the original foam was, since there wasn't any intact foam to measure, so I thought I would start by determining what the space is between the fender and the tank. To measure the space, I stuck little mounds of modeling clay at several locations on the tank, placed a little piece of polyethylene over each one to keep it from sticking to the fender, laid the fender in place with the mounting holes aligned with the captive nuts in the frame, and pushed straight down on the fender until it contacted the frame. When I lifted off the fender, the height of each mound of clay was mashed down to match the space. All of the mounds measured 9/16" or very close to it. The foam rubber will need to be a little thicker than the space, so that it compresses just enough against the tank to hold it securely. I'm going to have to guess as to what thickness and compressibility would work best, based on a combination of intuition, logic, and black magic. It's possible that I might have to try a few different foam rubber combinations before I find one that will hold the tank securely without stressing anything. To begin my first experiment, I just ordered some 3/4" foam made of a blend of Buna-N, neoprene, and vinyl. It's listed as having good oil resistance, and it's considered ultra soft (rated at 4 psi to compress it 25%). This is a closed-cell foam, but the original foam might have been open cell (I think there are some pros and cons to each). I will need to be careful to place the foam pieces so that they allow drainage and not trap water anywhere. The foam should arrive in a day or two, and I'll post an update on how it goes.

I’ve posted about this tractor before, 1975 C160. I think I need to rebuild the hydro and I will at some point. In the meantime, I found a ‘77 C160 with no engine and a good hydro. I figured the easiest way to get it going would just be to swap the whole rear end, hydro and all from the 77 to the 75. From what I’ve read the hydros are the same number, both are hydraulic lift. I would assume ‘77 to ‘75 would be plug and play with no modifications. Of course it would be easier to just take the engine from the ‘75 to and put it in the ‘77 but the ‘75 is my grandfathers and it has a lot of sentimental value to me and it wouldn’t feel like his anymore if I took the engine and put it in an entirely different tractor. I understand I’d be essentially taking half of another tractor anyways, but there’s just something about having the same steering wheel, same footrests, seats and hood that my grandfather used that’s important to me as dumb as that sounds. Any help would be appreciated. ‘75 is a 1-0481 and ‘77 is a 71-16KS02.

You two need to go into binding arbitration to settle this matter for the rest of us.

In my experience, the IH Red is a bit on the orange side, the Regal Red is a darker color....

They ain't green and that's all that counts around here!

I did run it around for a good bit before attempting removal and believe that helps, also had another wrench holding it. I was getting a little worried before it let go . Hadn't thought about doing that way. I was going to scuff it up a little before painting, got some real good ceramic header paint that I've used on the rail buggy that's doing really good after a couple years. If you do the ceramic paint the way you're supposed to you paint, drive around, and paint again while hot.... bake it on I reckon....

I definitely have done this many times with good results. The trick is not to mangle the seal and they will run smooth for a long time.

I just installed some 6203 in a mule drive and was able to lift the seals out with a dental pick and load them with Lucas Running smooth...No other option to lube on a mule drive and similar service hours as those on spindles.

I've used sealed bearings on the front wheels for years. I never liked the grease mess.

1054 1964 Lawn & Garden Tractor 1054 4-Speed Kohler K241S-46215A 10 Wheel Horse 5047

I have the same C-160 auto. The Sundstrand model 90-1140 is NOT difficult to rebuild---I've done several of them. If you know your way around a screw-driver and a wrench, you can do it too. Here is a FREE 'refurb' .pdf manual I prepared as a guide. You can still get gasket and O-rings from on-line sources. SUNDSTRAND PUMP & MOTOR DETAILS.xlsx SUNDSTRAND Piston-Piston PUMP & MOTOR Refurb.pdf

HAPPY HALLOWEEN

One street in Franklin NC has become a trick or treater's go-to location. Each year the majority of the houses on Bidwell Street are decked out with the most outlandish ghostly, ghoulish decorations ever seen and thousands of costumed children and pets roam the street. The police block of the street, our church gives out hot dogs and bottled water (last year we only had 1,200 hot dogs and ran out). Take a peak at Halloween in a small Western North Carolina city.

I have an Ariens professional, which used to be that contractor grade snowblower. A best of a blower. I use that first and then I use this.A 1056 to finish up. The only thing is left is bare pavement. This works for me.

Hard to believe that damage was a total of $14,327, but it’s back looking spiffy as ever:

Hope this old posts from other R-26 owners may be of assistance.

Well I got some shift knobs all shined up using some almost paper sand paper thats how fine it was and then getting a piece of 3/8 all thread and chucking it into the hand drill and used some cleaner and polish carnuba wax. The worser of the two is going back on our dump trailer

Both of those tillers will fit all C,300,400,500 series tractors. I have a 7-1251 that I’ve been using on my Work Horse GT-1800 since 1984. Repairing the other one is really not a big deal. The hardest part is getting the tines off. Since the tines appear to have little use it’s definitely worth fixing.

as you're seeing there's plenty of help here

Welcome to Red Square. Here is what we have for the model 2-0100 in random order. We have a tractor parts list but no illustrations to go with them. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=2-0100&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy Best guess is you have a 1972 model. The V50 (5hp) engine is not listed for this model but little is known about Belgium product. We show a V70-125093A (7hp). Did find a parts list for the engine you have but it was not originally used Wheel Horse in anything. They did use V50 engines in walking mowers but not this one. https://www.partstree.com/models/v50-60148h-tecumseh-engine/

Happy Halloween!! Looks like even the undead like Wheel Horse.

@wallfish Yes I have used it in the snow and it works great. In all honesty though I have only used it in a light snowfall just to see how well it worked. I was very happy with the results, as it swept the asphalt clean. I’ve never tried it in more than an inch or two of snow because I have the plow or two stage blower if it really gets deep.

You know this place makes the addiction worse. It's akin to holding AA meetings at the strip club during happy hour.

Had some partial cans of Regal Red and IH Red paint and thought I would try and see which Red I prefered. So painted up some truck dolly wheels to compare. I was kinda surprised by the results and was wondering what some of y’all thought. Can you all tell which is the darker red and what wheel is painted with what flavor? I thought the one closer was the darker but the olady says further away is darker and so does the children. What say yall?

Got ready for trick or treaters

I mean i see it🤣🤣

Let it burn off the factory paint first, then you can brush it off and use Rustoleum silver or black high temp paint that will last.

A Limerick... There once was a man who liked jokes Knock knocks to all of his blokes He knocked once to often And his face they did soften After drinking one too many rum and Cokes.

I can see where the topic title could have been interpreted that way. I just addressed the situation by carrying out a disambiguation operation upon the inexplicit verbiage to avoid potential misinterpretation (i.e., I edited the title).

I drove 75 miles across the state to pick up some parts for EJ the 8n at Steiner Tractor Parts. Turns out that my order ŵould be too big for our PO box. The main part in the order being an electronic ignition system. Nice sunny afternoon for a trip like that. The fields I passed were mostly bean - now harvested - and corn now being harvested. Also passed wind turbines, solar panels, and a few oil wells along the way - interesting mix of energy production in mid Michigan. Got back home and played with the chipper/shredder grinding maple leaves into mulch to enrich our raised bed and other flower beds. Ended up with about 2/3 of a cubic yard of the stuff.

My 522xi has cruise control, but the serial number is not in the list of affected units. I checked just now anyway, and the wiring is routed correctly. As to the tank venting, it's been fine, and both of my tractors have a different (newer?) vent tube configuration than the one shown in the service bulletin. Even though the foam pads on mine had deteriorated, you could still see the remnants of the adhesive backing before I cleaned it off, so I know where the pads went and how they were shaped. I just don't have an actual sample of the pads in good enough condition to see what kind of foam was used and how compressible it was, so I'm going to wing it and see what works best. Who knows, maybe I can improve upon what was used originally. And yes, thank you, I have files and/or links for all of the manuals for my 522xi and GT18, as well as the Kohler engines.

Had a few hours of shop time. Got the pto installed with new bearings seal and brake. Also reinstalled the tie rods correctly.

3" PVC slit longways.

Some I have used prefer the ball type

I used my 312-8 for decades to plow since bought new in 1989 --- but few years ago graduated to a wh with hydro to save my unhappy lower back lumbar from lifting that manual lift lever -- was wise decision.

Pretty much any weight for a 12” garden tractor wheel will work. The wheels and the mounting holes don’t change between brands.