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Hope you all have a safe and fun filled Halloween!

I recently acquired a use for a garden tractor, and have wanted a Wheel Horse since I was a kid. A little shopping and luck brought this old girl home. Rebuilt the fuel pump to get her running, and she runs great!! I'm sitting here now while the transmission drains so I can give her another 50 years of service 😎

There is nothing more terrifying than old moldy food in the fridge, and that is why Haunted Refrigerator Night on October 30 is such a great holiday, a night for ghostly occurrences and hauntings. This night fits right into the spirit of the Halloween festival, which is the next day. October 30 is also Mischief Night, Cabbage Night, or the Night of the Devil, and is a fun way to remove the lurking dangers lying in wait at the back of your fridge.

Guess you could say I ‘poached’ a Deere. Had a plywood tailgate when I got it on the cheap. A piece of chain link fence top rail and a coupling cut in half make the fabbed tailgate work pretty much like the real one did.

Happy Halloween!! Looks like even the undead like Wheel Horse.

I have used DEX/Merc in 3 older Sunstrands. Works fine. Don't overthink it.

I got it far enough last night about 2am to finally take it for a drive. I have replaced every piece of the fueling system. I have replaced all of the wiring and all of the electronics except the stator and regulator including converting it from triggerless to battery points. I put new front tires on it which are holding air without tubes which is surprising due to the amount of rust I took off of the inside of the wheels before I painted them. There is still a lot left to do but I am happy to get to this point with it for something that had been sitting a really long time with a transaxle full of water and half of the wiring burnt out of it. There are still a couple of issues left to deal with. The transaxle needs rebuilt because the one of the cap bearings has corroded through and most of the seals leak. The steering is super heavy and whatever the fan looking steer gear assembly is looks to be pretty worn out with a lot of play in the shaft. It won't run with the points cover on so I need to adjust that setup a little bit. This was the first time I kicked the blades on and it made some racket, I haven't even looked under the deck yet so who knows that is. I had to grind off the phillips head screws off of the screen covering the fan and was only able to get two of them out. I managed to break off a drill bit in one and a tap in the other one so that probably won't be going back on.

But not nearly as offensive as people putting JD green on Wheel Horse equipment!

Night of the devil. We used to live in East Lansing, close enough to Spartan Stadium that we could hear the announcer call the games on football Saturdays. One year, I had the first round of leaves raked onto the parking for eventual pickup by the city. Talking with our neighbors on Nov, 1 or 2, they mentioned the excitement in front of our house on Oct. 30. A fire truck made a call to extinguish the pile of leaves. We had slept right through it, and had not noticed the charred spot where the leaves used to be.

Wow that tractor hardly looks used, someone to good care of it, obviously. May you have many hours of enjoyment running that tractor! Just a note, these are herd animals, once you acquire one, they tend to like company

You know this place makes the addiction worse. It's akin to holding AA meetings at the strip club during happy hour.

I sourced these lights off Amazon gor $25 for the pair. They are direct boltup, plug and play, no modification required. You can see the huge improvement they make over stock. I have included photos of the part number and the box they came in.

The C-105 is ready as always. Dedicated snow machine with winch lift. New this year is the C-125 with winch lift back blade. I'll be adding a front blade I picked up from Pullstart to it as well shortly. It also has York rake and single bottom plow attachments, although I'll only plow snow with the Brinly if it's in @Pullstart's front lawn...

I don't know nuthin ! (As I wipe off the glitter that stuck to my face)

Some I have used prefer the ball type

When I bought my neglected 418-C I checked the Eaton 1100 and the fluid was red so I replaced it with type F that I had on the shelf and have had no problems at all.

I use DexMerc \

Looks like it's tagged and your going to drag! Boy are those deere guys going to be upset the the red paint.

Looks great! My 77 is not that pretty. She is a hard worker though.

and exactly how do you know about those ? hmmm ? hahahahha

On the 300-500 series tractors, if your Hood Stop bar is missing, 2 1/4" bolts with washers, lock washer and nuts bolted into the holes where the rod went through is the perfect solution. You can see them in the attached photos. This setup cost 39 cents.

Guess I need to give strong consideration to getting another Wheel Horse with a hydro. Snow plowing and leaf blowing both go better with a hydro on my steep driveway. Here I was attempting to downsize and Ed @Ed Kennell is pointing out the need to look for more.

Well the trusty 312-8 and me mowed the lawn. I think I am down to one more cutting. Caught the sun perfectly just as I finished, less than 5 minutes later the window closed.

Everyone should have dedicated tractors, especially us old codgers.

Megan didn’t buy her house this year, so I guess I am stuck with the 310-8 I got for her. A short time ago, I picked up a beautiful plow (barely used) so I decided to put it on the 310-8. Debating whether I want to put on my craftsman wheel weights or not? If I had a spare set of WH weights I would do it, but Craftsman?? The HD spindles and thrust bearings make steering like there is nothing up front.

So I did alot of searching and most people unscrew the exhaust nipple from the block, and then used galvanized tubing to build a stack. I found the nipple on my tractor was stuck, so I went a different route and I want to make this thread to help others, cause I couldn't find a solution and had a really hard time finding the 1 1/2" exhaust tubing. Napa has 90 degree pipe with a 1 1/2" ID on one side and 1 1/2" and OD on the other side. That paired up with 2 muffler clamps and a Stanley Muffler Company Ford tractor muffler got me the sound and hight I liked. Sound wise is pretty much the same as stock. I added a rain flapper, and after this photo was taken I turned it around where the hinge on the flapper was facing the front of the tractor. I am getting some 1/4 inch strap steel after work and will make a bracket that will go from the muffler clamp down to the stock brace bolt that was used on the stock muffler. All and all this costed me $30 for the 2 clamps and piping, and another $60 for the muffler. The flapper is had from a Mud Mower build I did 15 years ago, and just kept the flapper laying around all these years, figuring I would add it to a tractor some day. All the piping is 1 1/2" including the inlet and outlet on the muffler.

Had a few hours of shop time. Got the pto installed with new bearings seal and brake. Also reinstalled the tie rods correctly.

All I know is that if you look at the WH tractor manuals for hydros all the old ones (sunstrands) call for Type A ATF. Type A was the original ATF...early version actually used some sperm whale oil. Type A is essentially Dexron 1. Dex/merc is compatible with Dexron 1,2, and 3 and early Mercon fluid but not the newer stuff.

I have not used chains since I went to these tires

We like stacks here!

not cheap but quick and fresh. you will have to double check the size of the rubber bumpers.there are many different ones on the site. these were used on my hood

I believe the main hose fittings are #6 and the cylinder o-ring are #5 have to check to make sure. The one 45 degree jic to jic i got on ebay SC did not have it. I had some stuff from left over jobs. The original price would not matter because i did the job a few years ago and the prices were a lot lower then. Straight fittings o-ring to jic jic to jic 90 hoses

I like those Mother Fletcher suitcase weights...

Just put WH decals over the Craftsman

Nice - I did similar using a glasspack and the raincap on my 854. You may wish to add a lower rigid support bolted to the engine - a low hanging branch could damage the area of the block threads upon impact... The reducing run tee made it easy, but was really difficult to find in 1".

Hard to believe that damage was a total of $14,327, but it’s back looking spiffy as ever:

3" PVC slit longways.

Thanks to everyone who provided feedback and pictures; they were most helpful. Tractor is running again after purchasing an after-market v-belt, which by the way was 84 x 5/8 inches. It appears the inside diameter of the belt was more important than the outside circumference. Gears shift fine and I was able to finish my fall plowing.

Last night one of the boys sat in my ladder stand for the evening. My bucks were done being processed and I was on my way out, then he told me two does out of his range were working their way towards the water hole and my tall tree stand. I grabbed my bow and ran out in stealth mode. The big doe was head first in the water hole and I was 25 yards in full draw waiting for her to stand and show her vitals. She stood, turned 180 and looked toward me but could not pinpoint me. I was crouched behind enough grass, I was not visible. My wind was in my favor, but there is that intuition. She blew and ran off, and ruined my chance to get a good shot off. They ended up running away from the both of us but I still have a freezer filling up with good aim!

Awesome! I cant wait till snow season to use the lights!

@ericev0113 I think when you have the time look through this site and you’ll find all kinds of manuals information about your tractor. Knowledge is power. Ask a lot of questions if you need to. It looks to be in really nice shape. just take your time and look at everything. Find your engine, manual transmission, manual, and parts manual. This will give you a good start. Much help here if you need it. And when you can become a supporter of this site and you can post all kinds of pictures as much as you want. Because we are picture lovers.

If you have access to a drill press here’s how I do it. Get a 2-3” bolt that screws into the shifter ball and cut the head off. Screw a nut on the bolt then thread the ball on. Tighten the nut against the shifter ball. Chuck the bolt in the drill press. If the ball is dull and scratched up start with 220 and paper. Work you way to finer and finer sand paper 229, 320,400,600,1000. Then I move the ball and bolt to my hand drill. I have a cloth buffing wheel that I use white rouge on. Now just buff the ball with the drill turning on a slow speed. You can turn a faded scratched up ball into a mirror finish.

gosh Don -- that is certainly a battle ready herd ---- i almost said Fleet but herd is more appropriate. You should take a few of those down to your local firehouse so you have more driveway to play on this winter.

Hank’s sister Mildred 😁 1054 with a 20 hp Magnum……2054

Here's the lift link dims. The holes & slot are are about 9/16. 1/4 plate steel should do it. I wouldn't be afraid to drill a few more of the round holes for more adjustability. Mine doesn't lift very high and when it does it's crooked. Problem is to get it to lift higher it won't lower proper. Lemme know if you need more. This one is off a parts deuce that I don't know if I want to part out or not. Seems to be in pretty good shape so might try and sell at the BS as all there.

Back away from the relays, they are not the problem. The 25 amp fuse is between the 9 pin connector and your ignition switch. Closely examine that RED wire to and from the fuse, the fuse holder, the connection at the ignition switch and the 9 pin connection itself. It doesn't take a whole lot of corrosion to upset your electrical system.

Credit to Pullstarts wife for the senior tractor in this photo.