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My 87 308-8, I’m the third owner.

Its stored in a metal shed behind my shop out of the elements along with a bunch of generators and saws, i dont really go back there much unless im trimming but i needed something this afternoon, its sat since about May, untouched. Hopped on, key on..meter said 11v, choke...turned over 6-7 times...started up, backed it out...let it run to recharge the battery. I remembered i had wheel covers to put on it from earlier in the year. The old Kohlers do run smoothly, this is the K181S that i did a quick refresh on in 2023, popped the piston out, put on new rings, new piston, put it back together in about an hour...didnt touch the bore..it was consuming about an ounch of oil in 10 minutes prior to😆. This is the Horse that started it all for me in 2002, the WH Yahoo Groups, all that. Side note...the ebay seat covers suck, they get sticky after about a year and turn dark..never sits outside, never rained on.

National Nut Day is celebrated annually on October 22. According to the Nutcracker Museum, nuts were a regular part of the human diet from as far back as almost 800,000 years ago! Early man used “nutting tools” to crack stones. Pecan remains from 6100 B.C. were discovered in a Texas cave. Early Europeans ate pistachios while Greeks and Romans believed that walnuts were a gift from the gods. So, no matter what you eat today; include a healthy helping of nuts. They have lots of health benefits and they make you happy. That’s important to remember on National Nut Day!

I pick this up on EBay for about $30. I using it on the 64 engine I have because it has no A-C-R. Should help for cold start ups. Also I hate changing oil for winter the to summer use. It has a magnetic base. Should fit or work between the frame rails. It heats up right away goes to 200° should work nicely heating up the oil.

Right Eric...I would get all the stuff and rebuild it...charge for parts only...labor of love.

Interesting you'd say that. I was just thinking it was very nice of someone to set aside a whole day for me. Wait.... That wasn't a prerequisite for joining this group????

I was going to say the same thing, but you beat me to it. I guess warped minds think alike.

Mrs Sylvan was surprised to learn that there is a day honoring her husband...

Looks like you are well on your way to having your round-hood romping around the yard and a few shows. I had a 1948 F-1 which I street rodded and drove over 100,000 miles.

That pic is for a big block Kohler, but yes you should be able to straiten the governor arm. A pic of mine for reference. Cable connection.

I have an interesting problem. I switched out the #5053 transmission in my 857 for a new #5053 transmission this last spring. I have torn apart the old #5053 3 speed with the idea of rebuilding it. This is where I need help...should I spend the money for bearings, new seals and gasket? Should I paint the old transmission so it looks brand new, or maybe someone wants that old worn look for an original look? I do not need to keep this transmission (store it) as I am getting old and the one horse I have that would use this trans, has a new trans already. Know this...all of the bearings were bad enough to be replaced (compete set of new bearings). All of the gears are in good shape...except I want to replace the 2nd & 3rd fork gear. The 857 would pop out of 3rd gear when plowing heavy snow. In the end, I will want to sell this trans. (1) It is cleaned up and in pieces now. (could sell as is, need to put 3rd fork gear, all bearings, seals and gasket) and the buyer can buy the parts and build it. (2) I can, at least, paint the castings to look like new. (3) I can buy the bearings, seals, gear and gasket, paint it and sell it as a new rebuilt/trans. I would never be looking to make money here, but I think I should break even. I have no idea what it might cost me to make this trans whole, but it will cost some bucks. Give this some thought you guys, I know some of you think or have to think this way. Ask me any questions you may have. Maybe one of you out there is interested in this trans...couple of picks as is now.

After a lull, today was fix up the seat, touch up the latch for the hood, and get the overspray off the drive lever on the C-141 day. Not a ton of time invested. I figured I’d spruce it up for the new decals that are on the way.

A word of caution using a solid lift link with hydraulic lift: raising anything with hydraulic lift is done with the "pull" side of the ram. Lowering is done with the "push" or extending the ram. It takes very little to bend the ram on a Wheel Horse lift cylinder. A solid lift link gives nowhere to go for all that pressure if you put it in a bind.

Today was sausage making day. I grind 1 lb of bacon with 5 lb of venison.

Thanks Paul, So Maz's blower has the narrow bracket that would be the correct width to mount on his 753 with the 3/8" X 81/2" long bolt and bushings.

I think I'm finally figuring this rustoleum paint out. Even with hardener it cures like bovine feces! In other words, very slow! Been a couple weeks since I shot this hood, and during lunch I broke out the buffer for a second attempt. It's much better now and while not perfect, at least now I understand what to expect. Minimum 2-3 weeks to cure enough to polish.

Interesting you'd say that. I was just thinking it was very nice of someone to set aside a whole day for me.

My name is John. I have been researching and lurking, finally signed up and thought I would post a hello. Picked up a 633 Round-nose from a nice guy the next state over. Currently working on/restoring.

Would be a good tractor for a blade. Especially for moving dirt. All that snow you get!?!?!? I would play around with both lift links.

https://www.google.com/search?q=shoulder+bolt&oq=shoulder+bolt+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQABiABDIHCAIQABiABDIHCAMQABiABDIHCAQQABiABDIHCAUQABiABDIHCAYQABiABDIKCAcQABiLAxiABDIKCAgQABiLAxiABDIKCAkQABiLAxiABNIBCDYwMDhqMWo3qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 often refer to this type bolt , as a swivel / movement point , terrific on a swing lever , shift point , allowing you to washer up a lubricated hold / swing point , with very little resistance . personally experiment with a regular nut , for actual fit , functional ease , then change that out for an elastic lock nut / washers , lubrication , for holding swing spot . my plow lever squeeze lever set up, is driven by the swing quadrant spring / red aerosol lube detailing , also a similar detailing on my PTO lever set up , both work with solid / smooth functional ease . only a tried tested . set up , make a point of ELIMATING A REPEDITIVE PROBLEM , like doing that , pete

Ed has it. You could replace the thicker bolt and use bushings in the blower frame or drill your tractor frame holes out. First picture is the older bolt to tractor frame set up second is tachmatic.

These short chute blowers could be purchased with three different attachment brackets. This one appears to be the one that bolted to the existing frame holes with a long 3/8" bolt and bushings. It looks like the 3/8" bolt was replaced with a 5/8" bolt so it could be mounted on the front attach-a-matic. All the blowers I have seen with the attach-a-matic mount have the 5/8" rod welded to the bracket and the bracket is a bit shorter. So, I'm guessing this one could be used either way with the correct length belt and lift rod.

I was never big on throwing parts away (bit of a hoarder). If someone needs one I'd be more then happy to sent it to them.

Have one similar and it was a failure. The metal bars in the center are the magnets and on mine they are loose. I suspect they can stick to uneven surfaces since they are independent of each other. Problem is the surrounding hot area of the heater does not make engine contact so no heat transfer. The heater is hanging on the magnets. I added a 12" strip of wood to the back of the heater with an eye on each end. Now a bungee cord over the engine keeps the hot area up tight to the oil pan and works. Just something to watch out for.

Nice project. The 633 was one of the only 6hp 's with a Kohler engine. Most of the other 6hp models came with a Tecumseh. I restored my 633 last winter / this spring. Happy to share more pictures or answer any questions you may have.

My 92 312-8, I’m the third owner.

Little sanding and some spot/glaze putty today, and a little more satisfied with the results. These wheels were in pretty rough shape but I forgot to take any before pics. Will spray tomorrow if nutin comes up.

I saw that you posted in the Plow Day section that you were thinking about putting bigger front tire on the Speed X. Would flipping the spindles and steering stuff work to put a taller tire like a 6-12 on it?

All my driveways are pavement so I might be better off with a chain set up or use the slotted link. I have been known to dig up a little pavement before with just the manual lift . Probally take @WHX?? advice and xperment some if it aint to cold burr. All that snow you get!?!?!? I'm predicting wet winter this year because of all the walnuts and acorns we have this year. Mother nature getting all the animals ready for winter. Dropped a little Hillbilly wisdom right there....

I put a solid lift link on by C-160 Auto with a 48" dozer blade. Snow and hard-pack have no chance! Works great for digging into top soil too...or anything else you wanna move. It has enough pressure to lift the front wheels off the ground by 3" or more.

Where the lift link hooks to the A-frame some and maybe all have a single hole for the link and next to it is a slotted hole. The slot allows for some float if you use it.

I use the chain set-up on the C160, for the flexibility on my stone driveway. Doesn't dig in as much over the undulations of said driveway.

Thanks for the info guys. I thought it was pre quick hitch/tach o matic. If it’s not I have no reason to get it.

Looks like the rear bar is 5/8" in diameter so meant to be used with the front quick hitch used 1973 and later. Your tractor normally uses a 3/8" x 8-1/2" bolt through 2 bushings in the large front holes of your frame. Not saying you can't make it work. This one uses a 5/8" x 69" belt so you may need a 1/2" belt to fit your pto and shorter than the 69". Lift tube also would need to be shortened by trial and error.

Our first motor home in early 1980's was divorce deal. Saw add in paper and lady said it was located at a salvage yard and that it was her ex husbands. Dad and I drove probably one hundred miles and when we arrived at junk yard, the owner--ex husband--met us at front gate with his workers. I don't believe they had any ideas of us entering that business. The lady showed up with county police. Police said we had thirty minutes to get it out of there. We had to hand carry our own battery, fuel and tools back to the motor home. The ugly old motor home cranked but didn't get fire. Dad hot wired and the miserable thing started! We drove off of property and I told lady if it made it back to her house, I cut her a check, If it died along the way and we left it along the road, it was hers. We made it home. Upon later investigation, dad discovered the wire to the coil had been cut laid side by side and wrapped in electrical tape--to make it look like the wire had been spliced. Dad said that "He wished he had seen the looks on the faces of the ex husband when that motor home started." Below is a picture of what the old camper would have looked like. Ironically, our next door neighbor had one exactly like it. Ugly as sin but we sure enjoyed that camper.

I have some with the Carter carburetors and some with the Walbro and both are about equal in my estimation.

Little wet sanding and shot some primer on the C-160 wheels that I mounted the new vredstien 5 ribs on. Will try and paint tomorrow but may have to sand and primer them again before Im satisfied with them…..

I'm almost ready to reinstall the sheet metal and other accessories on my New Holland GT18. I gave it a few degreaser-rinse cycles a few days ago and got it pretty clean. I was pleased to see that there was very little rust, and I touched that up as well as I could without more disassembly. Before finishing the reassembly, I still have to route new wires to connect the taillight upgrade, adjust the traction control position, lube all the fittings, install new foam rubber where I removed what was left of the old foam rubber that secured the fuel tank, and finish cleaning up the instrument panel. However, that may have to wait a few days, since I'm getting ready to pull our floating dock out of the water for the winter, which is always a pretty good sized job, due to its location and design (cross-braced, long stiff-arm system). It always takes me a couple of days of prep work, and then I need to get a few of my neighbors together to help with it. Also dealing with some kitchen upgrades and a few other little projects.

Awesome photos for reference, thank you... that engine looks great!

Ah haaa.... That is the next step after getting the ignition sorted. The "original carb" needs gaskets and leaks like a sieve ($33+ for a rebuild kit), and someone tried to repair the intake. Looks like the governor arm is all bent... ... ...but it looks like all I need to do is straighten it out, and make up a throttle rod.

I noticed that yours still has the up draft carb on it. Great for originality but they can be a bear to deal with. No harm if you wish to switch to a Carter carb. That's what mine has on it.

John! Whats’ about the 1950 F word in your handle? Chevy guy here but it takes all kinds. We’d love to see that too! Round Hoods Rock!

You missed a few, these are just .82 miles from your house. There were a few more out of the lighting. https://youtu.be/NdHJMPRHWuU

I use those all the time on my Power King loader hyd tank. Warms them up fine with no mods.

@953 nut @Handy Don Here is the new coil mounted, put it all back together…No spark. Did a lot of head scratching and reading about these engines on other forums, but no clues. Read back through the manual and noted there need to be .004 clearance minimum between center rotating magnet and armature. Pulled it back apart and some areas had clearance and others closed up with black asphalt insulation from old coil. I had previously seen this and measured ohms between armature and center magnet and it read open, so I thought that was OK. I cleaned the air gap multiple times with brake clean and my feeler gage. Now have a good 0.009 all around. Put it back together and it started on 2nd pull. Notes: The center magnet to armature has to have an actual air gap, I don’t quite understand but I suspect it has something to do with the magnetic field flux acting on the armature. New coil primary to spark plug lead 5.6 ohm (old was 9.1 ohm) Across new closed points 0.01 ohm, old points even after cleaning and filing 0.7 ohm. Points set at 0.020. I took it for a ride around the neighborhood hood. I’m sure I had a big 😊

Nice project. Don't hesitate to ask any questions. Lots of nice friendly knowledgeable help here.

Happy Borned on Day, Jim

Glued one of @rmaynard brake linings on today. Had an extra brake band and drum so didnt even have to take tractor out of line up for drying time .

"Wheel Horse Tractors...Built for a more intelligent breed, but so simple and rugged even a "donkey" can drive one..." This came to me when I looked at the drawing and immediately thought of what my Wife and kids say when they talk about my "hobby"...