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The ol girl worked good today. Dug up a brick and mortar foundation and hauled it away with no sweat!

Over the weekend we flew down to see my daughter in Charleston,S.C. and decided to go check out this museum. I must say that I was super impressed by the quality of the restorations of these trucks. Figured I would take a few pictures for you guys, I know how much you love pictures!!

National Fruit at Work Day, celebrated on the first Tuesday of October, on October 7 this year, is a day set aside to encourage people to cut down their coffee and junk food consumption and embrace a healthier work lifestyle. Can you believe that National Fruit at Work Day has been a thing for over 21 years? Yes, it has been around for a while now. The day celebrates every fruit that has given us its delicious juiciness and boost in work performance. In fact, National Fruit at Work Day falls within that time when many fruits, known to boost productivity, come into season. That includes berries, bananas, and apples.

Test fit some vredstiens on the C-160 (still need paint) and promoted the tri rib Deestones to the 856. Made a 3/4” wrench ( forgot pic) to adjust governor speed on the 857.

I liberated a 520H from a neighbor's shed after probably 18 years of dormancy. Think it is a '93. They parked it because the ignition coil was bad. I spent a few hours searching for any parts that may have been removed before. After I got it home I started troubleshoot everything. First thing I did was track down service/owners manuals and parts diagrams. Ignition coil test confirmed it was faulty. It was only sending spark to one plug. With that confirmed, I moved on to check out fuel system. Tank doesn't leak. Lines are surprisingly good. Fuel pump, no pumpy. Ordered one of those too. Also threw a prefilter in the cart too. Thanks to the speed of the jungle megacorp, I got the parts by noon the next day. I installed the not-so-perfectly fitting coil, and the near perfect fitting fuel pump. Thankfully I knew well enough to pump whatever the fuel pump sent out first into a jar instead of the carburetor. It was unholy. After I was satisfied that it was good gas, I hooked it up to the filter and gave it a crank. It fired right up like it was parked the day before. Smoked like a sonuvagun for a minute, then it stopped and just ran beautifully. After I was satisfied that the engine was good I moved around and started looking at everything else. Tires were dry rotted. Headlights didn't work. Gauges don't work. Hydraulics work. It moves forward and reverse. I spent the better part of day 3 trying to get headlights sorted while I wait for new tires. After all, this is going to be a snow mover first. I started with the bulbs. One good, one bad. Switch was also toast. Jumped the lines to bypass the switch and got 12v to the lights. Still no light. Power to fuse block was good. Fuse was good. Still getting 12v to lights, with no light. Figured loose connection was to blame, squeezed every blade connection and added a bit of wire to the fuse legs to fit the block better. There was light! Installed new switch and lights still worked, success. Gauges still don't work. Well, the HP% Gauge works. And voltage moves, but is wildly inaccurate. Oh well, it runs without them, they will have to wait, unless y'all know some easy fixes. On to the PTO. Here is where I am having a real issue. I can figure out a fair bit on my own without outside guidance, but the PTO setup is all new to me. Is the outer part that attaches to implements supposed to free spin until activated at the lever? I don't really know. Here are a few pictures I grabbed this evening. Serial number is pretty hard to read.

Took a short walk on the beach the last three days. We will be here till Thursday. Our annual anniversary trip that we have missed for the last four years.

Studded snow tires were the thing to have in the early 1970s. Going down the highway at night putting off a shower of sparks as they eroded the pavement surface leaving behind a couple of parallel channels that would fill with water and then freeze into glair ice strips overnight. Aha yes, I remember it well.

Got tired of robbing parts machines so, Made a few shifter grub screws on mini lathe. Now the other horses want be jealous and everyone will have a shifter that works .

Installed some steps and side covers on the 418-A that I had cleaned up and painted over the summer. The removed set will eventually get cleaned up and painted and put on the 520-H. Before: After:

A little late but this was taken on Sunday and its our whole horse herd at the moment.

Oh BTW. I am one of the few with only one tractor and it is a Wheelhorse. Love the little beast. It was my father's who bought it new in 1988 and only last winter did I replace the engine. Except rear tires, brake lining, axel shaft seal and engine all parts are original. Always being stored indoors helped tremendously.

72 and retired I do not drive in the snow. Just stay home, have an adult beverage and watch.

Here is one option. Aquí hay una opción. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Cast-Aluminum-Accelerator-Throttle-Pedal-Assembly,1170.html My C141 pulling tractor had a separate brake peddle that I turned into a throttle peddle. Pics are in reverse order. Mi tractor de tiro C141 tenía un pedal de freno independiente que convertí en pedal de aceleración. Las fotos están en orden inverso. Adjustable peddle stop Tope de pedal ajustable

Found yet another use for the Horse. First year I didn't have to drag a deer over 100 yards uphill with a rope!

Did you ever see the same damage from studded horseshoes? A significant problem in some areas.

By far the best thing I've found to keep a deck solid is to do very little. My routine after every mowing it to blow it off, jack it up and just scrape the clumps of grass off. No hosing. The clumps hold the moisture and that's the problem. I purchased the 48" deck on this tractor new in the late 70's. Since 2009 it's been used on this 2005 Classic. Zero rust. Once a year when I put it to bed for the winter I do pressure wash it and give is a light mist of whatever oil I happen to have at the time.

LOTS done with the Wheelhorses and trailers today! Earlier today I got the newly acquired and painted steel weights from @Sparky on my 1974 C160-8 Cinnamon Horse. We used Cinnamon to yank this project trailer outta its hole. Someone else can tackle it... Then we cleaned out the slot of forest it was in. Trim. Rake. Blown leaves. Cut sticks etc... Now the big 7 x 16 flatbed trailer has a home. Trina and her momma been working on firewood again today. Super friggin hot 🔥 🥵 so momma takes lots of breaks. The shed is full. 2.5 cord. The barn overhang is starting to get there too.

Also a common practice in my shop is to see how far into the woods I can throw that little brake pad. They fly surprisingly well... The only time it does anything remotely beneficial is if you have no belt on the PTO it will slow the bell down when disengaged, and it won't freewheel when you shut down the engine. It also makes changing implements or replacing a drive belt no longer "tool free".

But yes KP says clean it up and check the air gap. The distance between the magnets and the magneto poles. Should be about the size of a business card. The actual distance is in the manual and you need feeler gauges.

I mowed with my modified 48 today. Distributes clippings so much better. Definitely worth all the work that went into it! You can see the tip of the blade at the chute. Only 1/2 inch to the edge now. No height adjuster. I always cut the same height anyway...

I'm trying to save it. It seems pretty solid except for the little things that drive you crazy and when you dig into them you find even more wrong. Maybe in the spring I'll be able to strip it down and really get it going. For the time being, it runs, moves in both directions, and doesn't leak a drop. So I'll take it.

thank you all, i'm going to read the manuals

Happy Anniversary!

Still a HUGE seller up here in Northeast Mountain country. Trina and her mom never go a winter without them.

OSHA, Wisconsin would love me!

Yep - #44 is basically a shoulder bolt like as used in the deck gage wheels (but shorter) and machined grooves in the shoulder for the ball detents to keep fork in place if I recall, a 9/16" wrench (or maybe it was 5/8) for the hex, torque was pretty standard (18-20 Ft Lbs if I recall) for 3/8 thread so quite unlikely to ever loosen, you don't need any Loctite or anything on threads , just clean dry threads. the tricky part is getting the new ball and spring depressed into the "pocket" of the fork while sliding the shoulder bolt through - probably a 1/16" pin punch (with a squared up tip, not rounded over) will do well enough to get the bolt threads started through past the ball far enough that it won't pop out , and then a precision screwdriver (thin blade) to fit between threads and fork body to "squiggle down" the ball to get the shoulder through...

Many thanks as always ... Phil

Tried to wet sand and buff the hood tonight. Was going perfectly until I tried to focus on a spot with a tiny scratch in it. I was using 2000 grit paper and thought I had plenty of paint. NOPE! Right through to the primer coat... So maybe the 4th time will do the trick. Otherwise I'm gonna mix aquarium gravel in the paint and just call it a textured finish.

I'd only skimmed it and clearly didn't read closely enough. I'll be digging into that manual tomorrow. Thank you much!

Though the GT-14s all are listed as having the 90-2062 Sundstrand hydro and Charger, Electro, and Bronco are listed as leaving the factory with the Sundstrand 90-2046. The difference between these two models is the number of teeth on the output gear of the hydraulic motor that is coupled to the Wheel Horse transaxle. Other manufacturers also used Sundstrand transmissions which all used the same pump/transmission (the part in the finned aluminum housing) and that was probably the source of the 90-2070 pump/transmission which bolts directly to the Wheel Horse configuration. You shouldn.t have to separate the hydraulic motor as shown in your second photo, just remove the casting it bolts to unless you feel a need to take "EVERYTHING" apart. If you do go in there be very clean and cautious. The mating surfaces are machined to tight tolerances and any scratches or other marks will ruin it. If you open it this is all you would see. @daveoman1966 has a lot of good information in the thread you linked to, he is the Sundstrand Go To man on this site.

? you know, lizards lay out in the sun warming up

Everyone meet Jerry, Jerry meet everyone. my 5 year old stepson wanted to have a skeleton on a tractor. He went with his mom to go see his sister at her college this weekend. Can’t wait til he sees it. I’m going to get a different skeleton for the one who’s getting mowed up. Now the wheels are turning on getting Jerry some friends doing other crazy things. He’s temporarily mowing with my 12auto until I get the rusty 14-8 up from out back.

Agreed ... supposed to be their mandatory nowadays blade brake. Agreed as well ... hopefully just a little stuck. It should slide right off. All parts in the bell are available yet. You came to the right place for all things 520. I have five of them and many others here have them.

Magnet is on the little wheel in the middle. If it's still good, a wire brush or sandpaper removal of any rust on the magnets tend to help. Edit: @WHX?? beat me to it.

What lynmoor said The PTO pulley will spin rather freely when the PTO isn't engaged, you may need to adjust that little brake pad so there is .012" clearance with the lever engaged. That brake does next to nothing and many ignore it. When you have an attachment hooked up it won't spin.

Agreed. Chances are nearly to zero that's a choke issue. Removing and reinstalling the carb could free up any stuck linkage or possibly the throttle cable.

It lives! I think I found everything I needed except for a few small fasteners. Tires held air for long enough to see that it moves forward and reverse. All hydraulics seem to work. Gauges don't all work, but I'm not too concerned about that. Now I've got to dig out the snowblower and mower deck. The only real issue is the brake. It is pretty sticky. I sprayed and greased everything really good, that may just need to be worked back and forth to break it in. I'm not sure. I'm just happy it runs so well after being left for so long. Seems a shame it sat so long only needing a coil and fuel pump.

Well I dug into the transmission out of my one tractor that broke a few months ago and there are two random ball thingies that almost look the the ends of shifters, it's a lot rustier and crustier than we originally thought, and the needle bearings for the axels left the chat a loooong time ago; we we almost through the outer races. And I just learned how to use the emojis on Red square.

My latest purchase:

7AM 48F 5 mph SW wind

44F and 3mph East wind t 7AM

I'll add this at this point. All of the manual Wheel Horse transmissions use 3 cap bearings (the 3,4,6 &8 speeds)...and they all have a depth of 3/4" on the package. I happen to have a #5053 3 speed tore down in the garage, and guess what? All of the holes that would have cap bearings (the castings) measure 3/4" inside to outside. The cap bearings that I pulled out actually measure a depth of 11/16". That tells me, we are haggeling about where you want to hide that 1/16". Looks like it does not really matter wether you set them flush with the inside or the outside. For me, I like the look of the bearings set flush to the outside of the casting. The one thing you don't want is that cap bearing set too deep that the shaft it holds is riding in the end of the cap it self. I think I will agree that the factory set them flush to the inside.

A hair covered horse is a herd animal. A paint covered horse is also a herd animal. We have wheel horse tractors because they're extremely easy to build rebuild repair maintain disassemble reassemble Etc. You'll see many references to BBT or Trina. That's my other half. She's extremely practical minded. She does most of the work on the tractors that we restore. It's unlikely she would have any other brand. 7 or 8 years ago I guess it was now? We set it out with one tractor. We now have over a dozen. The other big thing is the people. Red Square in particular is a great bunch of folks.

I would agree with that. There is a fairly large torque increase from small block to big block on a K series or Magnum Kohler. Stroke, compression, even the mass of the individual flywheel makes a difference. My point was you don't need 25hp to run a tiller and that low range alone has more impact on the tiller performance than does pure horsepower. All that being said, tillers have been used with small block Kohler-equipped tractors successfully since the 1960s (especially after 1967). Obviously, as with any powered implement the performance rises with the amount of power applied. That is a given.